John E Davies

https://jalopnik.com/winnebago-made-a-flying-rv-that-camped-where-no-other-r-1847458400 Imagine the maintenance needed to keep a helicopter with a 1300 bhp radial piston engine operating. Safely…. The turbine option would definitely be my choice. And I would no longer need to bring along my gas leaf blower to clear the pine needles and dirt away from the site. John Davies Spokane WA

Not all sites have full hookups, especially in the West and in National Parks and Monuments. Do not expect to have that convenience everywhere you go….. There are a number of different products, you can use these two with a 3/4” garden hose to drain the grey tank into the sewer opening. In some western states, when primitive boondocking in the desert, it is acceptable, but not actually legal, to run the hose away from the site and under a sage brush. Let it trickle over a few hours to prevent erosion! I have not used that second item, but i use the first and it works most excellently! The four ears are way more secure than the two ears on the Valterra version, those snap off if you look at it wrong. But buy a second Camco one as a spare, regardless. Alternately, just use the big 3” stinky hose that comes with the Ollie, it works fine for just grey water, though it is bulky and you must add a support thingy to allow it to drain properly. Or go out ocassionally and lift it up to get the trapped water to flow out. For a black tank with, errr, solids, you must wait until the tank is full, then drain it in a big rush, followed by a rinse, or all that yucky stuff will remain in the low spots. John Davies Spokane WA

My old style OEM cargo tray was done that way, but the (visible) welds were completely ground down flush for some reason. It is neither necessary nor smart, that reduces their strength significantly. (My welder made disparaging remarks about the ground-down welds….) You can sand down your completed parts lightly with 320 grit wet or dry sandpaper and get a very nice satin look, it takes off the gloss and any light surface scratches or handling marks. Be sure to put heavy tape in the more visible areas while you are drilling to prevent additional cosmetic damage from “twirlers” - spinning curls of metal. Finish the cuts and corners with a file and then a power sander (80 grit) if you have one, to true them up, then sand with a lighter grit. It is not necessary to “break” the sharp corners along the long dimension unless you want to, unless there will be a cargo strap crossing those points. Here is my repaired tray, with the heat gun holder AKA flagpole mount, after I backed it into the stonework of my house 🤭 You can see the new welds along side the old ground down ones. FYI I found out that Sharpie ink will not come off where it is baked in by high heat, if you get something fabricated, avoid making any marks too close to welds. Normally brake cleaner will completely remove them. John Davies Spokane WA

Hi, thanks for your question! There was a thread about this a few years ago, but I can’t find it. I even started a service ticket back then asking WTF? I never got a satisfactory answer about where they got that figure. (The same ticket asked why they did not have a correct tire pressure chart.) The bottom line is that 120 ft pounds is simply too much for a 1/2” stud. Typical recommendation is 90. Some sources go as high as 110. This one says 90-100 for a 16” alloy wheel. And this one: Tire Rack, Wheel Lug Torquing OTH, 120 is perfect for a 9/16” stud. Do some research, if you can find a source that says 120 for Dexter 1/2” studs, please post a link, I would appreciate it. I have been using 90 for five seasons with no problems. After the initial installation I retorque them after say 100 miles, and they rarely need any additional torque after that. How is the download working? I haven’t been back to this thread in quite awhile. I am still using the log, it has been a great help. John Davies Spokane WA.

The fan has a very poor design, it appears to me that there was zero consideration given for making sure any moisture coming in the top opening has ways to get out, instead of pooling up on top of the electronics and in various nooks and crannies. I added a dozen drain holes, plus sealed wires and screws in a few places…. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/4003-how-to-maxxfan-remove-and-service-preventive-maintenance-to-avoid-water-damage/ John Davies Spokane WA

The blue tape is for protection during manufacture, the same can be said for the white peel-off film on the cabinet doors, which may be mirrored. Plus the taped down foam pads on the horizontal surfaces. As are the production workers and other trailers visible through the windows, that is a pretty strong strong hint that this is on the production line, not in storage. 🙂 BTW "Mouse" has those ugly yellow frames, I hate them but not enough to replace them, maybe one day I will coat them with Krylon Fusion All-In-One https://www.krylon.com/products/fusion-allinone/ in a color that coordinates better with my interior colors. It might require completely disassembling them, and I am not sure it is worth the effort. How well would a vinyl wrap work? John Davies Spokane WA

Hmm, $58 on Amazon, and it uses an adapter plate to cover the big square hole. Five years to end of life, not seven. BTW 2 wire vs 3 wire, the third wire is not used, that is an option for a second battery (backup), the two red wires are connected to each other in (my) Ollie. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks, that is good information. We both carry a can when we are outside the trailer in brown bear country, as a primary defense. Though black bears are actually more dangerous, and a mother moose with babies can be a real hazard. We always have carried spray, and the second one is the spare in case you have to use one, leaving you “dry” for the rest of the day. Every member on a hike has to have a can! The firearm is in case the wind is wrong (having capsicum blow back in your face with a predator in front of you is so very VERY bad …. Unbearable pain: How bear spray became a prized weapon for violent protesters). A really strong crosswind will prevent it from reaching the target. A pistol can be used to fire a warning shot at long distance, into the ground in front of the charging animal, before the second one goes into its “center of fur”. Or to use if all else fails and he is chewing your leg off or dragging a child out of a tent. Or to fire three shots to signal for help when lost, or to harvest a meal. Or to dispatch a rabid coyote. Or to defend against an armed human attacker (USA only!). Or to plink targets…. When hiking in warm weather it rides in an OWB holster, or in a cross-chest holster if I have a pack or coat. I have carried a pistol daily for four decades, where it is legal, and for me it is just another safety tool. Recently I have had to choose a less than ideal smaller caliber, .327 Federal Mag, due to joint pain and neuropathy, but it is still more functional than a sharp stick. The trailer gun is a Henry lever action .44 Mag with bear ammo. I can’t shoot a 12 gauge or .45/70 any more😥 The main reason is that it will make you sleep a whole lot better, every single night, in the wild. This I guarantee. It’s a personal decision about what type, but do not fall for the hype that “you do not need a firearm” in bear country. But it is not a replacement for common sense, survival gear and a satellite communicator. John Davies Spokane WA

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/1978-nature039s-head-composting-toilet-installation-in-an-oliver-big-thread/ John Davies Spokane WA

So, that desiccant pack was already in there? If so, that is interesting and unexpected….. it looks as if there is plenty of extra space for a couple of more. Thanks for the pics. John Davies Spokane WA

A side "man door" is excellent, and it is a cost saver for the owners, long term. Completely opening and closing an RV door electrically creates a whole lot of cycles, leading to spring failure, which is fairly costly to repair. I open mine by hand about seven feet when I just need to walk through, it is very easy to do, and I very rarely open the door up to its full 14 foot height. There is an electrically operated deadbolt you have to retract manually, then pull the Big Red Handle to disengage the drivetrain at the top. Both are at eye height on the wall, and very easy to find and operate. John Davies Spokane WA

If you live in a humid climate, carefully use a hair dryer or heat lamp for a while to force out any moist air immediately before you reassemble. It is really hard to completely dry out stuff if the air has 80 or 100% humidity. If there is room inside, insert one or two small silica gel desiccant packs. Post some pics please, I have never seen inside one of these. I have a Garmin BC30 and it is permanently sealed, I think. The video quality is garbage, but it hasn’t fogged. John Davies Spokane WA

That is a great spot, woohoo! Congrats! Do you mind sharing what your long term rate is, and also what would be a typical amount? Is there any clause allowing you to break or transfer the lease and get most of your money back in case of emergency ? That is even wider than a standard RV garage, my attached one is 16x42 feet, that is measured by the OUTSIDE of the wall framing, so it is a little deceiving and I did not discover that until after moving in 😤. I would love a little extra width, but you should have plenty of room to get some other stuff in there and still have walking room to reach both sides of your Ollie and to maybe add some big industrial shelving. I am guessing that those ceiling lights are LED, but are they soft white (yellow)? If so, will they let you pay for and have them install a set of 4000k LEDs? That will add a whole lot more whiter illumination, and make doing stuff in the winter, with the door down, a lot more pleasant. John Davies Spokane WA

I love that generation of MDX, we had a 2010 TL with that engine and SH-AWD. And a six speed manual transmission, we had to sell it because my wife’s left knee blew out. We have been thinking about getting an MDX, sort of, maybe. These are absolutely wonderful vehicles, and really bulletproof as long as you are diligent about doing the required maintenance. I would definitely give it a try, the LE1 should be fine as long as you don’t go cargo crazy. I found this thread that will answer your questions…. https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f10/towing-with-2008-mdx-9867.html It looks like you will need the typical accessories if they are not already installed, 7 pin wiring, brake controller, 5000 pound rated 2” receiver, and a transmission cooler. I don’t know about a WD hitch, that would be something to research, what are the tongue weight limitations? How many miles on it? Considering its age, It needs fresh shocks and new fluids, especially the transmission fluid and differentials, and do the timing belt and valve adjustment if they are due. Brakes, obviously. I can’t answer your question about braking, that will take some research, but I would think using your gears for engine braking would be plenty adequate. The trailer brakes are an assist, but you can literally burn them up on a long mountain descent if you abuse them and don’t let them cool. Of course, then you could install disk brakes, no worries then! The LE1 has a 5000 pound rated axle and 12 inch brakes, which are quite large for the trailer size. (The LE2 has two sets of 10”.) One thing you can do if you are running into your payload limit is remove and store the third row seats, for sure, and possibly the second row ones. That will give you a fair bit of extra weight capacity, plus lots more actual volume. It is not a huge cargo area to start with…. I don’t have any idea what they weigh, but the ones in my Land Cruiser are really heavy, 70 pounds for the two in the third row. The middle ones are even heavier. I just removed the left one to install a fridge, and I can barely pick up that sucker by myself. Good luck, if you do this, please post pics. I would be very interested to see the setup. John Davies Spokane WA

What is your definition of offroad? If you mean maintained gravel, potholed forest or ranch roads, no worries if you stay really slow, but an LE2 is not suitable for anything more intense. There is virtually no suspension travel…. The LE1 is better, especially with a SOA lift. Both are severely limited by the hitch design, and obviously the gelcoat is susceptible to scarring or worse. Abuse would not be covered by warranty, that would include damage from dragging over rock ledges or colliding with hard objects. Both would be obvious by inspection and would be easy for a shop to spot. I have a Yakima Skybox, it says “warranty void if taken offroad.” But how would they ever know? I think that is just a warning that it might break if abused….. just like your Ollie. FYI, taking an RV truly offroad is a big risk, your insurance is 100% void if it leaves maintained roads, and retrieval by a tow company becomes exponentially more costly. AAA won’t pay for it, unless it is within a few feet of a road, the truck has to be able to get to you. A “stuck” on the White Rim Road in Canyonlands will cost you a minimum of $1000 for professional services.. Especially if you ignore the No Trailers signs. PS, add your trailer and tow vehicle info to your signature, that makes things better…. I see by your home page pic that you have a Gladiator Rubicon, is that going to be your TV? John Davies Spokane WA

Are you sure it is not a gas issue? I would try borrowing another bottle filled with fresh “local” propane and test that, before I got too concerned about modifying settings. The jet may be slightly blocked, propane has lots of impurities that build up a crusty deposit, though generally that takes a few years. You can have the jet changed for a smaller one, but then it will then run lean (hot) at lower elevations. That would be a last resort IMHO. My Dometic has been reliable to 10,000 feet. I hate it, but that has nothing to do with how it operates….. I do think it is prudent to carry a DC compressor fridge, that gives you an emergency backup, and also a place to store overflow purchases from the grocery store until you have the extra room for them inside the trailer. My medium sized ARB fridge uses a fifth of the amp hours the 3 Way uses on on DC power. I power it from the trailer when parked, using an extension cable coming off the side solar port. John Davies Spokane WA

Thanks, are you confident about finding premium gas everywhere? There are occasional small town gas pumps even in Washington that only carry regular and diesel. I know a lot of truck engines say “recommend premium” but they will adjust for lower octane with a slight reduction in power. The Toyota 5.7 engine is noticeably snappier with mid range ethanol free and gets 10% better mpgs, but not enough for me to seek it out and pay the much higher price…. We are going to attempt the Canada border crossing on Tuesday if our Covid tests come back negative, but we have decided that four crossings would be pushing our luck, so we are going to Whitehorse and poke around there, then u-turn. And we will not attempt the Dempster at all. Another place you probably would not find premium… John Davies Spokane WA

That might have had me turning back, I would be concerned about getting trapped with no way to swing wide to maneuver, but maybe the picture makes it look tighter. Did you get any brush stripes on the truck or trailer? That is one of my few gripes about gelcoat…., The second responsibility of a copilot is to take pics of the Ollie going through the tight spots😬. John Davies Spokane WA

If you ship, be sure to get it shrink wrapped and put on a flat bed truck. There is an awful lot of really nasty chemicals between your place and Tennessee in mid winter, that can destroy the finish on your aluminum frame. I personally would not do it….. You could take delivery in person, then after three days in TN checking all the systems, take the southern route through TX, and then up I-5. If you don’t rush it, and wait for systems to pass, and the roads to dry, you should have no major trouble. Message Susan - https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/profile/3706-ray-and-susan-huff/ They towed their Ollie back to SW Oregon in December. Successfully. John Davies Spokane WA

Oliver used to say, no worries, lift the tires completely off the ground, then the lawyers stepped in and suddenly it was “stabilize only”. The same thing happened with the generator tray, it suddenly became a cargo tray - “You’ll gas yourself!”…. Use your common sense, nothing has changed about how the jacks are installed. Just keep everybody out from under the axles and frame, so if something should fail, it won’t kill you. When taking off wheels, consider adding four low jack stands to support the axles, so the shackles do not flip over center. That can be problematic to correct. These work well. (Never actually jack the trailer from the axles.) https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/jack-stands/3-ton-aluminum-jack-stands-91760.html I did not say this, forget I said this. Do not do this…… Never take a risk. You will shoot your eye out! “Unjust laws exist; shall we be content to obey them, or shall we endeavor to amend them, and obey them until we have succeeded, or shall we transgress them at once?” Henry David Thoreau John Davies Spokane WA

I am not referring to member Overland, though I bet he has spent even more than I have on his Ollie and Raptor, but to the huge financial hole you dig for yourself when you transform an off-the-shelf truck into a capable overlanding/ adventure vehicle. It is way more costly than doing the same for a motorcycle, that term is "fully farkled" F.A.R.K.L.E. -- Fancy Accessory Really Kool Likely Expensive I keep track of everything I do to "Mouse" in a road travel log/ service spreadsheet ... https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2774-how-to-davies-rv-travel-log-service-inventory-spreadsheet-excel-numbers/ .... mostly for when the time arrives to sell him; for that I created a simple "For Sale" doc that lists everything, as it might appear in a classifieds ad. I have resisted until today in adding everything up. I knew it would be pretty high. An RV is not as bad as a boat AKA "Hole In The Water That you Throw Money Into", but still.... this excludes any labor time, it is parts only.... nor does it include any special tools or materials that were needed. If you would like to see the entire doc, for entertainment purposes, or if you would like to use it as a template to make your own sales ad, feel free: **2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II “Mouse” Hull 218 FOR SALE Info Rev 08:06:21.pages.zip FYI, I do not have any plans to sell "Mouse" any time soon, and please do not tell my wife about this thread. John Davies Spokane WA

I think this would be a great choice if it isn’t $2000+. Truma stuff is expensive and not easy to work on, and with a limited number of shops that can fix them. Parts are grossly overpriced, if you can even find a USA source, this one is in Oz…. ($0.74 conversion rate). https://www.caravansplus.com.au/appliances/hot-water-systems/truma-parts/aquago/ This sounds like an improved Air Command design, that is still a viable option for folks wanting to replace any AC. Mine has worked flawlessly for five seasons, it was installed at the factory back when they did stuff like that… oh wait, I did have a repair, drat, I forgot… the remote battery died and I had to install a new button cell this spring. That was $3 down the drain. 😬 John Davies Spokane WA

It is indeed a little hidden, don’’t feel bad about that, you should explore your forum personal settings. Click your user name, top right….. then Account Settings Then Signature, add whatever info you like, even a URL to a personal site. All this stuff appears after every post you make here. In other tabs you can add or change your avitar (little picture that is beside your user name) or the pic at the top of your personal page. Most casual posters don’t bother to alter any of this. John Davies Spokane WA

That is ingenious, I hope it works well for you. I am concerned about a high pressure tank hanging so low in the center of the truck, it will most likely get damaged when you go off pavement, hopefully it will just bend its brackets... 😳. How do you plan to keep mud off the compressor cooling fins? Where did you mount the remote air filters? For $1000 I would probably look into installing an engine driven pump using a repurposed AC compressor, or just buy an off the shelf CO2 system like Powertank…. Is there some reason you chose this under frame method instead? Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Yes, that is original. In your shoes I would be a little irritated that they installed an old unit. I bet Oliver does not rotate stock religiously. You put new inventory on the back of the shelf! However, I don’t think sitting in a sealed box will hurt the life span measurably, unless they keep these in a factory location near hull production, where there is a lot of airborne chemicals around….. It is exposure to some solvents that degrades or wrecks the sensor. The actual 7 year service life before it goes into its crippled “end of life” mode is determined by how long it stays powered on, which is why I think killing power to it routinely will perhaps make it function well for a longer time period. It does take three minutes to “boot up” when you turn it on each time. The red light flashes, then goes out after it warms up. John Davies Spokane WA