Tom and Doreen

This is a follow-up to my earlier post regarding the E5H error. Truma did respond with the following description for the E5H code: "ionisation voltage recognized during standby mode. Could have been from a solenoid sticking for a moment due to moisture on the sensor, or a voltage spike". In my case I'm sure it was due to moisture as a result of traveling during heavy downpours.

Allen, absolutely satisfied; highly recommend it. When driving into a campsite you can find the most level section from within your tow vehicle and then fine tune when setting up.

I'm posting this in case anyone else encounters this problem: We were traveling back east from Hohenwald in a driving rain storm through GA and upon setting up at the campsite could not get the Truma furnace to heat; the error E 5 H was displayed on the digital display panel. The Truma documentation that I have did not list this particular error code. The furnace had been operating flawlessly prior to the rain storm so I suspected that the problem had to do with moisture preventing the furnace from igniting. I took a hair dryer and blew warm air up into the Truma exhaust vent to dry out any accumulated moisture and that fixed the problem. If anyone has a detailed description of the E 5 H error please post it here as I could not find a description online or in my documentation.

It sounds like a possible mis-wiring during the replacement procedure and also an incorrect interpretation of the meter reading. Could it be possible that the replacement battery was wired in series (rather than in parallel with the other batteries) by mistake and the meter reading was 24.1 volts rather that 241.0 as stated?

Hi John, yes I believe this is what Oliver recommends. Unfortunately I couldn’t find it locally and was leaving on a trip so I ended up using ext/int Gorilla double sided tape. We traveled from CT to PA to VA to SC and back and encountered rain, sleet, and heat along the way with no problems. This may not be the best solution but I don’t believe that the antenna will detach again.

No, it appears to be yellowish. I haven’t tried to remove it as yet, maybe it’s adhesive tape?

My cellular antenna has become unattached from the roof, holding on only by the attached cable. It appears that it was attached by some sort of adhesive only. Does anyone know what type of adhesive I should use to reattach it? Would exterior double sided tape work? What does the factory use?

For better or worse Oliver’s reputation will be measured somewhat by that of their associated appointed sales / service centers. Hopefully things will improve in the RV industry but currently there is a lot of distrust in this market, Oliver being the exception. Oliver provides a very unique purchasing, support, and quality experience which is what brought most of us to Oliver over the rest of the manufacturers. Oliver is growing as a result which is fantastic and things will have to change as a result understandably. Hopefully they’ll find a way to maintain a bit of that exceptional user experience.

I had the same issues and decided to purchase a new indoor antenna from SureCall thinking that surely the coax had been compromised from the extreme bend. Unfortunately that did not help. Being that the phone needs to be in such close proximity to the antenna to gain any improvement maybe the indoor antenna can be relocated to a place more easily accessible to the phone like closer to the table top or night stand.

My experience has been that the improvement of signal quality / strength has been minimal with the cell booster and any improvement dissipated quickly as the phone was moved away from the indoor antenna; I only saw improvement of signal strength when the phone was within a few inches of the indoor antenna. In testing I saw a difference of 11 db, 1 bar or so when using the booster and that required the phone to be within a few inches of the antenna. Maybe a better external antenna would help but still the signal radiated from the indoor antenna had very little effective range within the trailer. In my opinion it might help to sustain or place a call but barely.

Looking at the thermostat temperature data during the over-night period after stabilization when there is likely very little activity i.e., door/window opening, movement etc., the control looks pretty good. It looks like single-cycle variance of the thermostatic control algorithm is approximately 2 degrees with a cycle period of approximately 30 minutes per cycle consistently throughout the over-night; pretty good. The average temperature over the entire over-night control period is very consistent with negligible wanderation suggesting good control. I doubt that my house control is that good. It’s hard to say what factors influenced the data prior to and after the over-night periods, possibly activities within the trailer; hard to say. I’m not sure what would cause the temperatures to be what they are inside the equipment bays, it might be interesting to see what the skin temperature of the furnace itself is as it may be radiating heat towards the water pump area.

Same story, the waste hose shredded on a cold day last January returning from Oliver. Luckily the Oliver supplied waste hose came in two section and we could utilize the second section. We then replaced the hose with a Rhino and that's been working fine. We have a composting toilet and are very happy with that decision.

Thanks John! I noticed quite a few sap blobs on the roof, I'll get a plastic scraper and get at it.

Thanks folks! ....Problem solved! We've been camping in pine forests for a couple of weeks with varied temperatures and at times downpours; It turns out that quite a lot of pine sap found it's way into the door gasket and glued the door shut. Pouring warm water around the door seal and tugging very hard freed it up!

Hi Bill, I tried pulling on the door but I don't think that I pushed on it, I'll try that tonight. I suspect that it won't make much difference as the door is tightly closed and the latch just spins freely around as if not connected to anything. I hate the thought of drilling through the latch. I'll likely be heading down to Oliver in January anyway so I may just wait until then for repair ( and hope that I don't need to access that area until then ).

While camping last week and showing the trailer to one of the many interested people who stopped by I found that the battery compartment door would not unlock / open; the latch would unlock and turn (freely....too freely) but the door would not open. It seems that the lock handle may no longer be connected internally to the lock / unlock mechanism. I don't suppose there is an easy fix for this? Aside from this I've learned an important lesson: Always allow extra time when packing up a campsite because the Oliver draws a lot of interest and people will be stopping by.

Did you find that the x-chocks were causing problems?

Shooting in the dark here but if your microwave is working your inverter is working. Possibly your GFCI outlet is at fault, hard to say. Oliver service will definitely help you, they're some of the best in the industry, try them again.

I have the "simple one" at $10.99 and I was able to connect to the difficult zerks.

Make sure your Truma water heater main switch is set to the 'on' position. This switch is located on the water heater itself and can be set to either the up or down position. The center position is off.

The LED is wired across the fuse and will light when the fuse is blown AND a load is attached to complete the circuit. There must be a load applied and the fuse must be blown for the LED to light. As far as reading a voltage with your meter on the load side of the fuse ( when no actual load exists ) this may cause your meter to falsely read a voltage because your digital meter is completing the circuit between the LED and ground. Because your digital meter has high impedance inputs the LED may not actually light but it is completing the circuit between the LED and ground, thereby drawing a small current, and as such will indicate a voltage. You can think of your meter as a very high value resistor in this application.

I can certainly understand Oliver's take on this. It’s incredibly difficult to troubleshoot owners problems over the phone / text / email without actually getting your own eyes and hands on the issue, this takes considerable time all of which is uncompensated. In addition customers may be pressed for time, unable to make repairs, or unable to make the trek in some cases thousands of miles to get service at the factory. Oliver is trying to address both of these issues. The issue that I have is that there aren’t any dealerships in my area that I would trust to work on our Olly so if something major happens I’ll make the trip, if possible, to the factory. This would be a good opportunity for some young entrepreneurs with skills and a van to form a close relationship with Oliver, get trained, vetted, and certified, and head out on the road.

Two enthusiastic thumbs up for Earth Roamer👍👍 and also it's little cousin Truckhouse.

I think that we have the same dog! We've had the same experience in that people with other dogs assume that it's ok to let their dog approach without asking. It's funny that you mention the "find it" game; We have a ritual whereby while she's eating her dinner we hide her after-dinner snack somewhere in the house. When she's finished we shout "FIND IT" and off she goes. She quickly tracks it down and upon doing so we throw up our arms and exclaim "she saw it with her dog nose!!" 😁 while she proudly does a victory lap around the house.

Exceptional work!!