Tom and Doreen

The Mini-Rally and a visit to the Maine Botanical Gardens just down the road.

@jd1923The Optifuse 300A/48VDC circuit breaker should remove all DC power to the Xantrex. The 60A/42V circuit breaker controls the 12V peripheral systems in the coach; lights, radio, etc..

@RustyMDThat’s terrific , I’m glad that you found the problem!

Just guessing here but is your flue blocked or is the fan not operating / jammed? If you have the antifreeze kit is the yellow flue plate removed?

True, this has been my work-around. When I have more time I’ll have to look into this further , if not I’ll have Oliver fix it this winter.

Yes and unfortunately we have the same issue. We have a voltage difference of between .4V - .5V between the actual battery voltage and what the Xantrex reads so there is a voltage drop across the wiring and the circuit breaker. When the batteries are at full charge it’s not too bad but when the batteries begin to discharge we come close to the Xantrex cut off point because the voltage that the Xantrex sees is significantly less than what the actual battery voltage is.

The sensor does use an O-ring and they supply some spares in the kit. Good idea to add silicone, I'll do that next time.

I thought that I'd post this in case anyone else runs into the situation that I did whereby the TPM sensor battery compartment was unable to be removed with the supplied stamped sheet metal wrench. In my case the battery compartment was so stuck on that the supplied wrench began rounding off the plastic hex nut profile of the sensor, had I gone any further the sensor would have been ruined. I ended up using a 1/2 inch six-sided socket that provided much more surface area contact than the wrench and the socket did not mar the surface of the plastic nut; even doing that I was unable to grasp the barrel end of the sensor with enough force using my hand to unscrew the barrel from the sensor until I squeezed the barrel between the padded hand grips of my channel-lock pliers ( don't use the jaw end or you'll risk crushing the barrel ). Curiously ProSmart used to ship a tool that more accurately fit the profile of the sensor but have included only the stamped sheet metal wrench in the current kits which provides significantly less surface area contact leading to the possibility of destroying the plastic nut profile. Also, when replacing tires I'd recommend changing the tire stems to metal versions rather than rubber to prevent premature failure of the stem as a result of the added weight of the TPM sensors.

Seems low but what equipment do you have and are you running any high power loads? What type batteries, what brand inverter, and what battery monitor are you using? If you have a Xantrex inverter and a Victron battery monitor do they both indicate the same voltage?

First off I don't have one of these furnaces so this comment probably isn't worth the time you're taking to read it but it sounds to me like your furnace is not 'seeing' a flame which would indicate a faulty flame sensor; most furnaces have a mechanism like this.

Hi John, yes there are quite a few devices available with regard to changing engine / operating parameters but unfortunately most require both a hardware purchase and a software subscription these days. The subscription business marketing model seems to be proliferating through everything these days including access to service manuals; remember the days when you could buy a OEM service manual outright and hold it in your hands??? Luckily I'm pretty happy with the way the truck is setup, except for the fact that I'll have to pay a subscription fee for a few of the 'extras' when the grace period ends which I likely won't do. ~Tom~

I recently bought a Scan Guage lll which displays engine data in real time including various temperatures and also indicates when the torque converter is "locked" which should help in determining the correct gear for the condition and keep transmission temperatures lower. I haven't taken it on a long trip as yet but so far it seems to be helpful. Not a big deal but I'm somewhat disappointed with the relatively mild engine breaking capability that the truck has which could place more burden on the braking system on steep / long down hill runs. It hasn't been a problem so far out east here but could be more of a concern out west. Has anyone had experience with that issue out west?

We had the same problem and the answer was to lubricate the sliding coupler as Bill and Nancy stated above.

@RivernerdThis is great news! We have a similar problem and will try your suggestion. Thanks, much appreciated! ~Tom~

LOL, looks very off-road capable!

I’ll bet it has more to do with politics and competition agreements than anything. Years ago Toyota was required to use US steel and manufactures to build the beds of their trucks. Guess what part of my truck rusted out. ….The Toyota cab, frame, and power train were still in fine shape when I gave it away with close to 300K miles on it.

I installed the Talon's Garage cat shield (aluminum) as well. Easy install, quick shipping, quality product. I'm somewhat concerned about the ventilation but so far so good.

Low probability but you can try to reset it by powering it off and then on again, press and hold the round button until the display goes off, then turn it back on; otherwise give service a call.

Just did mine yesterday: The issue that I have is that the grease doesn't seem to travel through the entire shackle link to the opposite end on a couple of the shackle links, it just oozes out of the first joint. I also found that one of the zerks behind the hanger on top of the equalizer on one side had never been touched by a grease gun, there was no evidence of any grease on the zerk at all.

Honestly I can't remember, I thought that's what I was told at the factory but I could be wrong.

Beautiful!

The rear hitch is only recommended to be used for weights of less than 100lbs and it's also important to note that the weight should be placed as close to the bumper as possible and not cantilevered outward. Typically this hitch is used for mounting a bicycle rack ( and that's truly what it's intended purpose is ) as is evident by the 1 1/4" acceptor. I would not risk mounting a cargo tray back there others may disagree.

@Rivernerd, you are spot on. My results are similar. I did attempt to contact Optifuse for more detailed specifications but haven't heard back. I suspect that the DCR ( DC resistance ) tolerance specs of the Optifuse are wide enough that many cases work and some don't, either that or there was a bad batch of circuit breakers.

I like your Super Brute jack, it has a light on the front as opposed to ours which has the light on the side ( for some reason, not very useful ).

True, ours appear to be this way.