rich.dev

Bill, I found this picture and post from John E Davies, the picture shows the position of the rubber strips. Not sure if jd's is the same, but looking at this picture from John, there's a rubber strip lenghtwise on the front of the box between the 2 gussets/L brackets (probably the 3/8" thick), and the 1/4" thick one diagonal in the back. Below is the picture and HERE'S the link to that post.

Excellent point! 👏

Nice, we also have the composting toilet and I was wondering how to drain the sink and shower into the black tank. Do you have a link for the original Facebook post? Looks like you’ve just switched the sink drain with the composting toilet vent, so now draining the sink down the black tank vent. No issues with that, and the composting toilet now venting out the great tank vent?

I think this what you're looking for. https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007

What a legend, was and still is my favourite artist!

Yup here’s the thread from John E Davies on the fresh water tank suction tube mod.

💯 agree on Amazon, not too many weeks go by without me ordering something from Amazon. But I avoid dealing with UPS and FedEx like the plague! Maybe it’s just because I’m from Canada, but with UPS and FedEx there’s always all kinds of extra charges! 😔

@Joe C I see on your profile you have a 2024 Elite, we have a 2023 and I was advised no need to register the cell booster.

The fuse should be under the street side access panel. It’s an inline 2A fuse I believe.

Great, thank you very much Bill! 😉

Patriot, do you maybe have part numbers or size of the ubolts and plates from Oliver? I’m hoping to source this kit up here in Canada rather than paying and arm and leg for shipping from Oliver.

To reduce voltage loss, here are a Couple videos explaining it. …….and

Geoff, this is what I was advised by Oliver….. Always leave the inverter off on the inverter, and control the inverter from the silver button on the remote. My remote is mounted about eye height just forward of the pantry on the street side. Also , Oliver recommended turning the inverter off on the remote when connected to shore power. They say that if your inverter is on, and you lose shore power, your batteries might be depleted without you knowing it is happening. ** the draw of the inverter is not the concern here, but more so the 120V appliances you might leave on that would draw your battery down. So, in a nutshell, use/push the silver button on the remote in (on position) to turn on the inverter to supply 120V power to appliances. Leave the silver button on the remote out (off position) unless you are not connected to show power and wish to run 120V appliance on inverter power. Turning the inverter off when you don’t need it will conserve 12V battery power.

Thanks Mossey, I understand you need a disconnect for the permanently mounted rooftop solar. Sorry if I wasn’t clear in my original post. I have the factory 400W solar on the roof with Victron MPPT 100/50 CC and disconnect in the cubby above the street side bed. I now want to add an additional 400W Renogy suitcase to connect with the stock outside Zamp port per my above sketch. Do I need a disconnect for this setup? Like I said in my original post, my concern is plugging in and out the external suitcase might cause an arc in the external Zamp connection and solar suitcase plug if there's no disconnect switch between the Zamp port and new Victron 100/300 CC.

I'm adding a Renogy 400W solar suitcase and onboard Victron 100/30 charge controller to my solar setup via the existing Zamp solar port. The existing Zamp connection/setup does not have a solar disconnect like my roof top solar has. However, the stock Zamp setup is geared towards an external solar panel/suitcase with integrated charge controller. So, is a solar disconnect required with a ground deployed suitcase and onboard charge controller? My concern is, it might cause an arc if no disconnect switch and I remove/pull the solar suitcase connector from the Zamp external connector.

Good idea!😉

I don’t want to hijack the OPs thread, but to all of you that’s also using the external Solar suitcase port as a power source, I assume that’s only possible if the charge controller is part of the solar suitcase and not inside the the trailer?

@HDRider …or replace all 4 screws with aluminum plusnuts like these. ……or these should also work well https://www.facebook.com/share/v/QTPdcUrjpg3mfQu2/?mibextid=I6gGtw

Yes looks like they changed the Inverter disconnect switch from an Optifuse breaker to the same cut off switch you have for the solar panels above the steet side bed. Here’s a pic of the Inverter Optifuse breaker on our 2023 LEII

@Gliddenwoods I fixed the orientation of your pictures, and see below for a possible fix to your leak. Pretty sure you have 1/2" pex B piping in your rig, that's what we have in our 2023 LEII. I doubt you have the proper tools to crimp a joint to fix that leak, so the easiest way probably is.... 1) Shut off the water supply 2) Cut your pipe squarely and ensure both end are free of debris 3) Join the 2 end with a push to connect coupling like this You can buy these from Home Depot, Amazon etc. HERE's a link for Home Depot

Nice, if I missed it, how much is Oliver charging you for the install?

Thanks for the link @Cameron, looks like a winner to me, especially the price!

We've had 5 travel trailers, the Ollie is the first with electric awning, I'm not sure what type manual awning the older Ollies have, but I definitely prefer a manual awning with support legs, more rigid in my opinion. But, don't tell my wife, she loves the lectric awning! And as @CRM mentioned, one less piece of electronics/motor to deal with that can go wrong.

😂😂 …. wish I had a manual awning!

Has anyone with an Ollie and electric awning tried this (or similar) awning reinforcement? https://saveawn.com/?fbclid=IwAR2f3ebhrjdGssRpOqtx-2mRkBYKwpYqmuNQPY2jf5_KTw_NFzYttYX8TWA_aem_AQz__Z-7Q8LGD0s_1fXsEvOWhDAIWCzEgS9bttplOpLfif_6IHQJM5eS9lQR2zmQXeI4aApiJmOu0ILaTps1TIkU&mibextid=WC7FNe