rich.dev

I usually have it at 7 or 8 threads

It’s in that area where your inverter is under the steet side bed (front).

That can be tweaked by tightening the chains. On my setup 200lb is moved from the drive axle to the steer axle and 140lb from the drive axle/tongue weight to trailer axles.

John, did you punch those numbers into the spread sheet I emailed you? If yes it will show the hitch/tongue and trailer weight.

Watch out for mold forming inside the hose.

Here’s my display!😊

It’s an excel spread sheet, pm me your email address and I’ll email it to you, or on your phone I think you have to download it first, when you click on it look for the download prompt to pop up on the bottom of your phone?

Doesn’t answer your question, but I use the TST 507 TPMS and no need for the booster.

Not sure why, let me try again.Towing calculations spreadsheet.xlsx

3 weighs if you have a weight distribution system/Anderson anti sway hitch....there are 3 "platforms/scales" at the CAT scale 1) Weigh your TV and trailer with weight distribution enabled, front axle of TV on front platform/scale, rear axe of TV on the second platform/scale and trailer axle/axles on the 3rd platform/scale 2) Same as above but weight distribution system disengaged, I leave it attached but just loosen the tension on the chains. 3) Only TV, front axle on front platform/scale and rear axle on 2nd platform/scale. Make sure the 2nd and 3rd weighs are "re weighs", i.e you pay full price for the 1st weigh and much cheaper for the 2nd and 3rd weigh. Then punch the numbers into this spreadsheet. Towing calculations spreadsheet.xlsx

Everything mentioned by @GAP and @John E Davies are good points, also closing off that stock vent should draw more "warmer" return cabin air from your 4" vent through the street side basement area. Now that its cooling down maybe you can run your test again by closing off that existing return vent?

I know it's been a while, did you complete your tests, if yes what where the results?

Since you added a 4" round return air vent on the aisle side of the front dinette seat, did you also leave the existing stock return vent open?

I received a response from Overland, he did not get around to doing a separate thread on moving the plumbing out of the basement and relocate it under the floor behind the grey water tank, just the pics in this thread. He does remember that there was a thread about adding access hatches, and it's likely that some of the photos of his plumbing reroute ended up there since that was a large part of the project. So now I'll have to search for a thread about "adding access hatches" @topgun2 is there a way to search for posts by user/user name, i.e. I want to search "adding access hatches" posted by "Overland"? Something like this forum search

Our 2023 came with these vents, shows you Oliver listen to their customers! 😊

Thanks Bill, so did I! I sent him a PM and will advise when I get a response.

Thanks @Steve Morris,found that one already, the mod from @Overland I'm looking for is where he moved the plumbing out of the basement and relocated it under the floor behind the grey water tank. I searched the forum but no luck yet!

@Overland Do you maybe have a link to this mod?

Good point, I took video clips of our walk through, have come in handy a few times already. Yes can’t stress that enough, test everything at the Oliver campground fully hooked up, AND like you would when boondocking, and if you’re getting solar, test it there.

Yes Reflectix is a radiant barrier, so like @topgun2 said, reflectix is really only effective when there is an air gap between it and the surface you want it to act as a radiant barrier for. For example, you’ll find reflectix on the outside of the inner top hull of an Oliver. That way you have the outer top hull, an air gap, then the reflectix attached to the outside of the inner top hull. As for the fact that Oliver attaches reflectix to the inside of the bottom outside hull, I believe (might be wrong) but the only benefit of that is to avoid heat from escaping from the inside to the outside, ie reflecting heat back to the inside. The Achilles Heel of the Oliver is the huge gaps between the 2 bottom hulls, so reflectix is not really an effective insulator there.

What a bummer I can’t do the same mod on my 2023 panels with different mounting feet (no pivot points)!

From coachnet website “Your Premier membership protects you anywhere you go throughout the U.S., Canada or Mexico.”

Yes a zamp port, I checked myself and it’s 20A, although the 2023 owners manual shows it to be a 15A fuse. I checked with Jason and he confirmed they install a 20A fuse, here’s his response…. “Yes, the plant installs a 15a fuse for the solar. The wire for the port is a 10ga wire capable of 30a. The largest portable solar panel option we currently have is a 230w system and the 15a fuse will cover that system. I typically have my team use a 20a fuse because I am looking more toward the future of what system might be available later. Technically as long as the wire is fused below its 30a max it is ok as the fuse is only protecting the wire.”

I have a 20A fuse on my LE2

I have the 2 x 320ah batteries in our 2023 Oliver and have seen the same thing you have on the phone app. I read following on the Lihtionics website: The SoC is a ‘metered reading’ from an electronic Hall Effect Shunt and is a count-down meter that is most accurate on its first cycle after calibration* but becomes less accurate over time. It simply counts amps-in and amps-out but some losses will occur. Being a metered value, it does not actually measure state of charge “real time” but instead “calculates” or estimates state of charge. -Explanation: *every two weeks, a full charge cycle in which the battery reaches 14.4 volts is required to trigger a recalibration of the internal Hall Effect Sensor shunt. When the battery exceeds 14.2 volts during charging, the SoC re-sets to 100%. (In order to fully charge a lithium ion battery, the DC loads may need to be reduced so the charge current exceeds the discharge current to allow a full battery charge.) -Why does the meter “drift” and lose accuracy over time? When a consumer is micro-cycling a battery via a series of multiple discharge cycles and has partial charge cycles from solar or alternator charging, the SoC meter loses accuracy, called “sensor drift” over a two week time period. This is also called ‘short charging’ as the battery never fills and the SoC meter does not reach recalibration voltages of 14.2(12 Volt Battery, 28.4 (24V), 53.25 (48.0) or 56.8 (51V) batteries respectively. I think what @LCTraveler said, as long as the voltages are the same your batteries are fine.