Wandering Sagebrush

GJ, what will be your replacement for the 3way? Will it allow you to replace both refer vents? I notice that the new Ollies still retain the upper vent. Curiosity is at work again.

Mike, thanks for sharing. It is indeed a well written article.

@KenB, Mark told me that he sealed the back of the refrigerator to stop dust and cold intrusion. My assumption was that all the aluminum tape was his work. Now I’m not certain what was his work, and what was done at build time. @mossemi, I haven’t pulled the cover off the power supply, but will do that later this week, and wish I had that fan switch. It would have solved a lot of issues. Así es la vida…

The sealing mod actually did a good job of routing the exhaust heat to the vent. Not knowing what was behind it led me to remove the aluminum tape and bent plates that directed the heat out. Curiosity got the better of me. I will reseal that area, and it will again resemble the photos that @topgun2 and @rideandfly offered. I am going to disconnect the existing (screamer) fan as shown in the older thread that John Davies posted. There’s a good chance I will install a new fan much like @topgun2 did, using the now identified DC source. Chances are it will be switched, too 😊. Thanks all for your help!

Bill, thank you! I just stumbled on to John Davies post from a few years ago, and I suspect that our Ollie is one that received refrigerators that had the fan mounted between the upper and lower coils. In which case the options are pull the refrigerator out, or disconnect the power wire to the fan, as John showed in his post. I’m going to do the latter, and if I have cooling issues I’ll add a fan at the top. Sure wish I had found this thread earlier. Looks like I’m going to button things up after replacing all the aluminum tape, etc.. 🤷‍♂️

In a previous post, I mentioned that I wanted to replace the fan that helps cool the refer coils, and that the previous owner had sealed much of the upper area between the fridge and cabinet. I started the search today, and would like to hear from anyone who has replaced the fan. As I peeled back the aluminum tape, I’m finding layers of styrofoam sandwiched in between the fridge top and what appears to be a piece of honeycomb composite shelving, then another layer of styrofoam up to the fiberglass top, all sealed with an adhesive or injected foam. Does anyone have photos of that area that in stock condition? This👇is what I’m finding. Thanks in advance. Steve

https://www.rgj.com/story/news/money/business/2024/04/02/reno-getting-dealership-for-iconic-airstream-travel-trailers/73180164007/

Lots of wonderful glyphs at VOF, but have you found the mysterious Bat Woman glyph? It’s shown on the signs at the Mouse’s Tank trail head.

Any recommendations for which brand to buy to replace our end of life propane/CO detector?

Rob, thanks for a great trip report! Valley of Fire used to be one of our favorite parks, but since the explosion of COVID camping, the crowds have made it not as pleasant a stay. The good news is that Nevada now has a reservation system that removes the uncertainty of finding a place in the park. The Mesa near Overton is another place to spend the night boondocking, as is the BLM land around Lake Mead. Buying a season pass is another way to reduce hassle.

We’ve been traveling in the Southwest, so I am just now catching up on some of the events. I have to say this “phasing out” is truly disappointing. Having bought a used Oliver, as well as being long distance from Hohenwald, I’ve always felt on my own, but it now seems a whole bunch more alone. Hopefully the Oliver forum doesn’t disappear or disintegrate. Paraphrasing Benjamin Franklin, either we hang together, or surely we will hang separately.

Apologies for the test image, but I figured out how to link to photos hosted on sites like Smugmug and Flickr. You need to get the “address” of the photo on the host site, usually done by selecting the photo, right clicking on it, then selecting from the drop down menu something that reads like copy image address. At the bottom right corner of the Oliver post dialog box, you’ll see “other media”. Click on it, select Insert “Image From URL”, then paste the photo address into the box. The photo below is one of my yard pets that I posted on Flickr and linked to from here.

Is there a “build thread” documenting your installation? I’m curious about how you routed the wires internally.

Has anyone installed this camera on their Oliver? If so, did you route the wiring internally?

It appears my source was misinformed, or I didn’t pick up on the date. Thanks for correcting the record.

Off topic, but… While traveling earlier this month, I met a couple in a beautiful Tiffin Allegro RED. While chatting, they mentioned that Bob Tiffin sold the company to Thor 🤬 last year, and that the Tiffin culture was rapidly changing.

That’s worth a try, it might be the simplest solution.

Art, I do the same… but they always loosen.

I’ve had my RockTamers for 12 years now, and not once do I remember them staying tight on my hitch. I snug them down tight, snug the lock nuts down, and by our first stop, the blasted things are loose. I’m thinking of making some shims to fit between the receiver and cast RockTamer collet, but thought I’d ask if anyone has a better solution. Thoughts?

I am out in the shop and realize that my window does not have screws on either interior or exterior trim, but it looks like I do have some of that parallax that was recently discussed. No that’s not bird poop on the exterior photo, it’s shop light reflection.

Are all the cracked doors on 2017 Olivers? Me thinks maybe there’s something goin’ on with a batch of doors. I’ve had Lippert door leak problems on two different truck campers, so I’m inclined to suspect Oliver may have been the recipient of another bad batch. The campers were custom built pop ups made in California by a friend, and component quality has been an issue for him. This may be worth having a discussion with Oliver about their supplier.

Looking at the photos of the cracks, it appears they all are located around the aftermarket window. That makes me wonder if the installation, in conjunction with wind, might be the culprit. I’d consider removing the window to see if there is excessive compression of the door materials due to the fitting of the new window. While the cracks are an eyesore, I’m not certain they’re catastrophic. Instead of duct tape, you might consider using Eternabond repair tape. Maybe first stop drilling the cracks to limit their ability to run. Edit: looks like Art and I were on the same page, same time.

Many thanks to John Dorrer for posting my question. I did not have internet at Organ Pipe. The tape job the previous owner did looked so professional, I thought it was done at Oliver. It’s going to soon be removed, perhaps to reappear when traveling in dust country. The !#@** fan will be replaced as well. My Rube Goldberg solution was to shade the refer by leaning my dog ramp against the trailer, using a towel for padding and additional shade. Two other LE IIs here, plus an LE reported in the group camp.

The table resides in the closet (inboard side) when not in use. We have two inserts with foam cushions (that we haven’t yet used) to fill the gap between bunks. When stacked on the curbside bed, they make a nice countertop extension.

Art, nice work. That is exactly where the previous owner of our Ollie mounted our Lagun.