jd1923

There are always some that say you can't do stuff when often you can. I would search the GM/Chevrolet and Duramax forums. Also, Dill tech support may know something.

I for one, miss your contributions to our Forum! 😂

Ken, hopefully this picture was taken during work in process. I'm sure you must have closed off and sealed the opening around the drain pipe. It almost looks large enough for an Arizona Pack Rat! Don't let the cute picture fool you, they are monsters of collection and destruction! 🤣 Regardless, this opening is certainly large enough for field mice and many kinds of insects! I pushed in a large bead of dum-dum (butyl) around mine.

I fully agree with your statement. I'm also interested in these but have no experience. Bluetooth, do they have an app to read tire PSI and temps?

I'm thinking a good tech at Xantrex should get you up and running... But, if it turns out you need to replace the unit and want to swap with the same model, I would do this. This eBay Seller with decent feedback is an RV parts & salvage co, this item is open box, "guaranteed to work." https://www.ebay.com/itm/267389119450?_skw=xantrex+freedom+xc+pro The labor is simple, since the model is identical. Just disconnect your shore power and batteries, and solar switch OFF. Then swap wires from your original unit to the new one. $650 plus tax vs. $1,800 plus tax and labor! 🤣

We’re staying with the OEM Scandvik faucet, at least for some time. This company is most reasonable for replacement parts! 🤣

Yes, call them! I purchased a brand new 3KW Victron Multiplus II for $1,100. Don’t spend this money on a 2KW Xantrex! Your model used in working condition on eBay is likely about $300.

Yes, and given a water leak, they ask for help, and it’s another few days…

Just “Oliver!” Sometimes we’ll say it the way Eva Gabor did in Green Acres!

I read in your other post that unplugging and plugging the inverter makes a noise. This and your test shows you have power to the inverter. The noise means it’s doing something internal. Time to get in the phone with Xantrex Tech Support. You have power in but nothing out. They will have tests for you to do and next steps. Your issue must be the inverter is not powered on or something else internal to the inverter. Good work so far! Keep us posted.

Stainless Steel (SS) lug nuts are limited. I've never seen them used for custom wheels. I'm not sure whether our wheels require 'acorn' or 'acorn bulge' shaped lugs. Thinking they are 1/2" x 20 and I would also measure the length of the stud extending beyond the wheel before ordering. Does anybody have these specs? Given verification of measurements, something like this may work. They're expensive by the time you buy 6 sets (24 pcs). McGard is a good brand I've used before. These are labeled "Made in USA" so don't buy a cheap bulk set that are made in China instead! https://www.amazon.com/McGard-64010-Chrome-Bulge-Style/dp/B000COMX9K/?th=1

Use a 12-point socket vs. the 6-point which is generally recommended for automotive work. The 12-point will remove easier. It is about the stainless-wrapped lugs. I’ll replace ours with solid chromed steel lugs someday.

To each their own... 🤣 Yeah, yank it out. The OEM model has absolutely no value! 😎

My replies are and will be added to the other thread, and there are more relevant pics there... I was hoping this would have been corrected...

Having these pictures is great! It may make all the difference in us helping you. Your test light should have an alligator clip on one end, clip it to the negative bus which is the one you have pictured 3 times with all yellow wires. You then want to touch both sides of the SMP 200A breaker shown in your 4th picture. I’m pretty sure this is the breaker between your batteries and inverter. If the breaker is closed (on) and in working order, there should be power on both terminals (test light ON). If you have power on the battery side and not on the other, you need a new breaker and you’ve found your issue. Let us know on this test for next steps if necessary.

@Skipster has two threads going on the same subject. There’s more viable info on the other thread, albeit it’s in the wrong forum folder.

Are all your 12V circuits working? e.g. lights, stabilizer jacks, etc. Attach some pictures here, of the inverter, inverter panel or on/off switch, wiring into the inverter and devices near the inverter. Do you have a multimeter, or test light? @ADKCamper gave you a good checklist for testing. The gurus are here. Post pictures and get a meter or simple test light at an auto parts store. It is likely simple..

When your Oliver is perfectly level, which side is the water leaking from? "Under the shower?" Do you mean in the wet bath? The water lines are in the bathroom vanity. The front cover with the opening and towel bars must be removed. Outdoor shower? Access the water lines under the streetside bed. Ours was leaking once when I left the outdoor shower faucets on. Only the valve on the shower head was holding the water. Check first that these faucets are OFF.

@CRM I ordered the $10 aerator and that was my total! 😂 They may add actual shipping cost to that later since they had a note about charging only actual costs.

Cool, thank you @mossemi, @CRM and @Tom and Doreen!

I searched, but not sure of the correct keywords... I remember @SeaDawg posting re this company a couple years ago. What make is this OEM shower head? The plastic end in ours has a pin hole in it. Thank you!

I'll be posting my stabilizer jack rebuild thread soon, a sneak peak here. This new Dicor butyl is top-shelf! It stays where you place it and fills the cracks! 🤣

A call to TST customer service and they may send you one no charge. Worth a try!

Excellent idea Tom! Great install location and repeater location for a good signal when towing. 😎

Sorry for not posting this sooner. An Oliver friend was at Harbor Freight today asking me the same question, so I went out to my garage and measured. The large snap ring has holes 0.11" ID and they are 1 1/4" apart. The snap-ring pliers I used for this has pins 0.07" OD and has a reach of about 1 1/2". The very small snap ring has holes about 0.05" and are only 1/4" apart. The snap-ring pliers I used for this has pins 0.04" OD. These are the tools I used. Zoom in to see tool part numbers.