jd1923

Fits perfectly in your hanger! Jus to bring attention to another option for those reading... I purchased two sets of this scaffolding, thanks to @Ronbrink when last year The Depot had them online at a "Special Buy" price! 🤣 It would not fit in David's "Hanger" but I like how I can roll it out of our garage and use it where needed. Each side is height adjustable, so I can also use it around the house for exterior work and painting too! It will take less room (as pictured) where the ladders will stick out further, left and right. But let me get one thing straight! I've used this as pictured to remove the Winegard dish, replace the bathroom exhaust fan and repair all the top-front fiberglass. Soon, I will use it to replace the A/C on top of our hull. But, no way in the world am I getting up there to wash and wax, to make our hull pretty! 🤣

The Owner's Manual for our 2001 Dodge Ram says the same (also 500 LBS tongue weight) and it's supposed to be a 2500!

Caulk only if/when the original caulk has failed. If so, remove the majority of the old caulk before applying a new bead. Caulk on old caulk, you’re not helping yourself.

Day 36 on our trip, lunch at Mary’s Cafe Flagstaff, a must stop off I-40! We’ll be home in 2 hours. Raise the flag, first thing! Holiday dinner includes a tri-tip of Colorado beef! Sorry, if I’m not talking Mods it’s about the food! Today signals the first day of the 250th year of our great Nation! Celebrate the year. Best wishes to all and your families!

Traveling our longest trip ever, 5 weeks now, some 4600 miles Arizona to Minnesota and back. Chris and I have learned a lot. And for me, I've spent hundreds of hours in M&R and Mods on our wonderful Oliver and finally we're enjoying the fruits of my labor. 😂 Shopping and dinning in Telluride a couple of days ago, we stopped at a shop that carries, "Life is Good" products, a sentiment to which we truly believe! I'm not much for souvenirs or T-shirts that advertise where I've been, though I had to buy this shirt. It states nicely in two lines surrounding the image of a compass, perfect for all of us who wander, and It goes like this: "We do not see things as they are... We see things as we are." So I turned 70, far more careful today than I use to be 10 years. Left our AZ home one morning at 4:45 AM to return to Texas, sitting on the pass looking down on Van Horn TX, I thought WTF, let's go! After 1100 miles, by 1-2 AM I was home in Lakeway TX. This recent trip, my longest drive was 5 hours, average 3 hours. I know y'all understand! @STEVEnBETTY, I have no idea your ages, your life experiences, where you live, you training, where you've traveled in the last 8 years with your Oliver. I'd love to know, and I'm not picking on you alone. I believe and I'm sure you agree, all of this matters. You wrote, "I’m disappointed in hearing members on this forum, disparage people’s attempts to do something different." I agree, and very often are suspect to your criticism! I've been told that if I do not regularly re-apply caulk to my Oliver, that it will damage it and destroy its value. Sorry, I will never add caulk on this hull, uglied by OTT in its original manufacture and again gunk-on-gunk after two return trips to Hohenwald. But caulk is more important in humid and rainy locations. Point in life, current needs, home and travel locations, part or full-time OLiver use, makes all the differences. You know how many times I've heard that annual bearing and jack maintenance is mandatory? Sorry to those who believe such, but when I pack bearings or grease the jacks correctly (not an Oliver University video) it will certainly last 3-4 years. I can tell by ear when the jacks need maintenance! Those who do not work their own maintenance cannot know, must trust Manufacturer's Recommendations and be at the mercy of hired mechanics. Normal to ask questions, but then it's one suggestion after another. This creates more worry which creates more, I just purchased new D52 axles and Alcan springs, parts only, will do the work myself this summer. I did not need to, as our leaf springs are clean, rust-free, nicely arced, no issues. My primary want was in having 12" brakes for safe mountain towing. and make everything new, restored. I can afford the parts and do the work now, replacing a 10-year-old suspension with hopes of carefree use for another 10. Not for fear of a spring breaking, as for that I have a spare pair under the toolbox and all the tools I'd need to make the roadside repair. there are 26 pages of leaf springs recommendations listed on one post alone! Most Oliver owners cannot do this work at home, let alone if stuck on the road, so such concern is understandable. We all have different comfort levels. Love technology and my Oliver has more mods than most, yet not of the @ScubaRx fame! 🤣 Tesla has made EVs mainstream and EVs are amazing technology. We have a wonderful forum where we all voice opinion. So in my opinion, if I had to tow with an EV just on this recent trip, I would need to stop 2x more often and 10 times longer to recharge vs. refueling and would not have been able to boondock in many of the remote spots we visited or the same trip would have taken 1-2 weeks longer. OMG, boondocking means no electrical hookup and charging! 🤣 I'm going to stop now, but Steve, or is it Betty? I've gotten a kick out of this post! We can all read here and learn something, or at times we think to ourselves as we read and say to ourselves, "what, no way, that's nuts! I'm not doing that."

No, not the same thing The compressor slows down as the fan slows down, doesn't turn on and off. Coils not frozen with frost, air blowing strong over it! However, we have no empirical evidence, since only 1 Oliver install of the Pioneer model, not much data presented. We need to learn more, but not Like Dometic, Houghton, Truma, Atmos, nor any other standard non-inverter tech model.

Yes, pic of Chris & Charley and #113 and the mountain view. Arrive on a weekday after the 4th and Tom, formerly of Prescott is a great host. $28 or $14 on a National Pass.

For a change, I’m loss for words! Given your post, I have far less Oliver towing experience than you. User manual of our old Dodge, given a 2500 Cummins, states to use a WDH when towing over 5000 LBS (?), even though GVWR is 8800 lbs. It does level the rig, less porpoising from the light Oliver tongue weight, stays nicely level. I install the latest technology and use it to the max, yet down the highway I’m just an ol’ fart conservative! 🤣 Good to hear from you @STEVEnBETTY!9

Not gonna touch this one! 🤣

Recognize Wilson Mountain of Coors fame? I remember when we left Chicago, Spring Break 1972 to Tucson, sat by the pool and drank Coors all day long for a week, back when it was not sold in the states East. Life is Good! All the marketing BS aside, we’ve been to Golden Colorado where there is a murky pond behind the beer plant! 🤣 Sunshine Mountain and Wilson is TDF! Wish we could stay another week! We will again soon, only 8 hours from home, who woulda thunk!

TY Robert, they use a divider between the zones which can be in place or removed between zones. This did make me worry that it would not fully insulate the dual zones, with your comment it makes sense now. So, this one is a strikeout. The Dometic brand, always something relabeled worries me and the only one I see is 75L. I need 60L max, a 30x18” footprint max which is more than enough! My other criteria is cost. Can’t pay $2K +/- OTD for Luna. Need to be $1K OTD. Thanks again!

Ha, did Brown Dog for lunch today! Detroit style pizza, nice crust, should have ordered double toppings, but tasty. Heading to Petrified NP tomorrow and home on The Fourth! Let us know when you’re getting to AZ John!

Reviving this thread since I'm in shopping mode. Steve provided this link and @Geronimo John copied a pick above the the 60L National Luna Model, which btw is not $1500 anymore, currently $1800 and SOLD OUT, as Steve wrote is often the case. It must be a great unit! Most of these are too big for what I'm thinking. 60L MAX, 48L Dual-Zone would be perfect for our needs, but when the capacity is smaller they become single zone units from what I've seen. We want to keep a dozen water bottles in the truck bed, some other refrigerated items and freezer space for meats. This 55L model is half the cost of the Luna brand with a very good 4.6 Amazon number with over 100 reviews. I have space for the 30x19" footprint in the TV, not much more. It has a removeable partition, wondering if that would become an issue? Likely not. Like the Bluetooth controls, so we can see temps while driving or in the Oliver. Anybody hear of ICECO or have one? If same price, I would opt for silver, but the black one, otherwise identical is now 15% off (might be for Prime Days), priced now at $815. With tax the Luna becomes almost 2.5x more money and we cannot do that. https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/646FA247-F0F2-4C6F-8D99-F440CC467332/ Let me know what you think. Thanks, JD

I prefer to call it “Cimate Change” and it’s whether you believe Mankind can affect it to any significance. Like the Ice Age and you must know the great dinosaurs were cold-blooded animals, so climate must have been significantly warmer than today for them to thrive, and later they didn’t. Dan believed I was against EVs, not true. Give me a Tesla S, WOW, but he was biased to GM only and the last time I wanted a GM was in the 60s or a few Cadillacs I’ve owned through the years. I wouldn’t buy an EV truck as a TV and I wouldn’t buy a Cyber Truck because they’re ugly and they’re not a pickup! Where’s the bed? EV trucks cannot Boondock, it’s as simple as that, without scheduling hours of time every other day for charging. He said “there’s electricity everywhere” and I replied, “that’s not Boondocking!” Last 5 days of our trip will be on one tank of diesel, two full FWTs, 600 Ah house batteries, solar and DC-DC charging, inverter running 110v outlets and appliances often. Simply no EV charge stations in our path! He stated 500 mile range. Several members replied lucky to get 200 towing. Most of us get 400-600 miles towing and under my truck and many models you can install an AUX tank to double those numbers, not possible in EV-land! Design experience is not Boondocking experience, period. Though I was told I do not understand and will learn one day. Dan stated his decision affirmative to buy the Sierra EV, absolutely this year. And MAYBE an Oliver next year, later. Last time Dan logged in was end of May.

Got back from dinner and the Host had changed the entrance sign to “FULL.” Got here at 12:30 and after we quickly setup camp, a neighbor stopped by and said, “You got the best site, #12. A trailer pulled out just before noon.” We’re sitting at 9,550 FT and not a bad view for our last two nights before heading back to AZ!

Camping at Sunshine CG, dinner at Floradora’s Telluride! They’re ready to celebrate America this week. Wish I had come here when still a skier!

Who said Iowa was flat? I always knew Iowa was rolling hills of farms and cornfields. I had no idea of how steep some roads could be! This is from a few weeks ago on our current trip. We rounded Omaha on I-680, crossed the Missouri north of Council Bluffs, the same town Bill had mentioned. Somehow Apple Maps showed me what look like an interesting country route to our destination at Arrowhead Park... I could NOT BELIEVE the roads, steep limestone dirt roads, sometimes a 10% grade which on dirt you better be careful. And we live in Arizona where steep is normal! Hard to see how steep in a picture, but you'll get the idea. Iowa was beautiful in the 2 campsites we stayed and the country roads in-between! (So was every state we traveled, every state in the union!)

It comes down to the surface area of the contact patch, pad on disc or shoe on drum. Disc brakes likely have some efficiencies but certainly not 10” discs over 12” drums. The main advantage of disc brakes is the cooling which is much greater since air cannot flow inside drums where the heat is created, and brake fade is caused by the materials over-heating. A simple way of looking at is, I (we) replaced axles rated at 7K to 10K. The brakes must also be capable of stopping the rated weight. Simple conclusion is it provides a 43% increase in braking power (10 / 7 =1.43).

Nope, you Army guys are tougher than me. Don’t like turbulence either!

But if you already have them at 100# they're OK, leave them alone for now and do 90# next time.

First off, to stick to the purpose of GJ's post, it appears that Dextron dealers carry the Nev-R Lube axles. Alcan does not carry the other. OTT does not install EX-Lube either and perhaps they can be special ordered. Everybody who has upgraded to D52 axles has purchased Nev-R Lube axles, which is what I also did last week. Alcan called me first thing Monday to confirm Dextron will build my special order D52 50.00 axles (they stock the more common D52 50.50 size). I high-jacked this thread the other day, something often tolerated in Ollie-and and wrote the statement, quoting myself above. Mike @Mike and Carol replied with this: Simply put, I'm chicken! Our TV can do it, the 1/2-ton TV can do it. I've watched the YouTubes on this dangerous road, so no thank you! When young, I used to ski the mountains of USA and Europe, like Kirkwood at Lake Tahoe or Cervinia (the Italian side of the Matterhorn). Later in life I've become afraid of heights, don't like 2nd-story ladders, don't enjoy gondola rides anymore and we're going to Telluride today! 😞 Somehow I can still bomb up the steepest dirt road in AZ on my dirt bike (slower on the downhills), but won't ride ATVs traversing a mountain, don't like that leaning sideways feeling and same on some roads. I believe it's an inner ear thing I've acquired through the years. And towing down a steep mountain can bother me at times, like AZ I-17 +/- to Black Canyon city, which I run a dozen time a year because I have to! It's the most direct route from home to The Valley, or I can drive/tow Hwy-89 down Yarnell mountain which I do to go to Wickenburg or Quartzsite. I drive slowly down, keeping an eye on the sideview mirrors allowing the speed-demons to pass whenever possible. Our older Dodge Cummins 2500 is fine TV and I've rebuilt it to like new. With it's 2500 rating and Cummins, it surpasses the Tundras and Eco-boosts many of you regularly use (maybe this post should be in the towing section). I was online shopping for more modern TVs the last few late nights. Those with greater than 440 torque, more than a 4-speed trans and with the exhaust brake! I could not find one used on Auto Trader and Craigs that fit my needs! We MUST have and 8-ft bed and I prefer 2WD for its lower stance and stability. Do not want a quad-cab or worse a crew cab. I've seen what y'all back into your back seats! 🤣Love our half doors which keep the cab short, making up for the longbed and back there is only our Pickleball bag, extra shoes under and behind the driver's seat and Charley's bench seat that he loves. In upgrading our TV, we could not find these features! 95% of trucks are 4WD quad-cab short beds. I would love a 6 or 10-speed Alison trans, or the 10-speed Ford but $7500 will get my an awesome stage-2 rebuild on the old Dodge and there is a premiere rebuilder in Phoenix. I believe the exhaust brake which @Patriot mentions often would make me feel much better on 8-10-12% downhill grades that are everywhere out here and I can add the recommended Pacbrake system for $2K which is possible since we already have a Cummins, btw no DEF required which you all know is a PITA. On the other side, I could sell the '01 Ram for a little more than the paltry $18,200 paid and not re-coop most of the additional $10K invested to-date in its rebuild. Uninstall and reinstall our Pepwave router system. And pay $50K, or $60K for a good used truck that would be better in many ways but not have the features we like. And they just look good together. What was I thinking, we're family!

90 lbs is the better number. Generally a stud will snap from over-torquing. Studs should also be clean and dry. If that single stud happened to have some grease or oil on it plus the 100#, that would do! To repair, remove the drum. On a workbench hammer out broken stud with a HD center punch. Line up the splines from back side and hammer in place. If you have the old-school bearings, removing the drum means repacking the bearings, not necessary with Nev-R Lube of course. Thought I would also copy instructions from the 2016-OTT-Owners-Manual.pdf here, where it states to use the stabilizer jacks to change a tire and provides the 90# torque spec (Oliver jacks and 6-bolt studs have not changed, from the first hull to the last). Loosen the lug nuts on the tire you want to remove. Check for a stable footing under the jack and place an ABS footing pad or block of wood about 4” in height below the jack foot plate. Raise the jack until the tire clears the ground, then finish loosening and removing them. Pull off the old tire, slide the hubcap out backwards and insert it on spare. Set spare tire evenly on the lug nuts and hand tighten lug nuts. Retract jack back to travel position. Now tighten lug nuts completely. Lug nuts should be torqued to 90 ft lbs. Place the flat tire in the spare location.

Please, please, please just use your stabilizer jacks! It’s safer and easier, recommended in the OTT 2016 Owners Manual, later OTT lawyers changed their recommendation. “What do you call a thousand lawyers at the bottom of the ocean?” a good start. 🤣 i suggest using a jack stand close as possible or on bottom-center of leaf springs for safety except for a quick tire change. Yes, connected to TV is always safer, yet not possible in my driveway or other locations. I wrote all this up in another post last week and quoted the 2016 OTT manual. Floor jacks don’t fit and bottle jacks can slip. Do it the easy way, takes just 2 min!

My feeling is Atmos was designed in Germany and the company made the mistake of manufacturing their product in China, where the copied the design and rebadged Knock-offs as Tosot and other names we’ve seen. This happened to ALL the technology patents that Motorola had, witnessed while I was there during the 90s. One of the reasons Motorola finally closed in 2011 (Motorola trademark purchased by the Chinese computer company Lenovo)! Question remains is are they quality knock-offs? SDG must be getting better wholesale pricing on the Tosot brand. Hopefully they made the decision knowing that it is at least comparable quality. If not, they will have future service and warranty issues.

I was thinking about this and nobody can be sure without real experience. However, the fact that the inverter A/C runs the compressor ALWAYS, and slows as it gets temp down to target, it may not produce the effect of the standard compressor A/C that shuts off and blows air across the cold frosted coil fins producing humidity. Give this idea a thought. Since the Atmos/Tosot discussion came up again, and let's keep that on the other thread, I started looking at these again. After travelling 5 weeks and getting more summer temps than we expect in the Dakotas, WY and CO, we've had to run our awful P2 more than I expected. I watch TV with expensive noise-cancelling headphones! I've learned that low power consumption is a feature that is more important to me than the quietest unit, since all of the models discussed likely produce half the noise of the Dometic. My need is to run A/C on 600Ah and the unit that can do that for the longest time would be the best for our needs. Anything new out there? We've all read @Treasure Coast Vault's post on the Pioneer which appears to be a Turbro Greenland clone, or vise-versa (can never tell when made in China which company owns the IP and which company stole it). Treasure Coast Vault reported exceptionally low power consumption, but if you read the Pioneer and Greenland specs, the Amp and Wattage usage specs are as bad as the Dometic P2. It's hard to make sense of it. And there is ALWAYS a difference in calculations EEs make and what is actually produced given climate differences and current conditions. I just found another option, running on DC which some of you like, but not me given our Victron MP2. I think it would be a pain to run heavy gauge DC cable up to the A/C when #12 is already there for 120VAC. 10K BTU should be enough for the Oliver, unless you regularly camp in the muggy summers of the southeast! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DW3TYSNR/?th=1 I'm still waiting, but please if anybody sees something new in inverter A/C for 14x14 rooftop RV application, even a new YouTube, please add to this post!