jd1923

At first glance, I thought that's our campsite!? We're Hull #113, site #71. Happy to be your next-door neighbors for what should be a great rally!

Good plan on tightening the shocks. First I heard of this model Monroe still holding pressure, especially when looking like that. Mine looked much better (AZ trailer) and 3 of 4 were totally shot and the 4th barely holding on. Too bad I did not know of the Bulldogs last fall. Your leaf springs, at least what's showing in the pics look nicely arced in very good shape.

Or repair it quickly yourself! Artist not required to fill and drill 4 holes.

The other thing we do is to keep heavy pans and kitchen utensils in the lower drawers and in the back of the drawers. Again, no problem ever on ours and check out this route! From 5400 FT at home to 1960 FT at the campground, twisties for 90 miles on a narrow 2-lane hwy. Do you want a Band-Aid or to correct cause? Last trip to UT, I hit 3 bridge seams too fast on one highway and the Oliver literally bounced, I cringed each time, but nothing was amiss inside. Just sayin'.

Duct tape? Hope you're kidding. I never want to do the tedious strap mod on ours. We had one drawer doing that and found out it needed a new slide latch. This is the part, very good backup parts to have btw considering the price: Side to Side Adjustable Locking Device for 563/569 Series Blum Tandem Drawer Slide - 2 Pair (4 Pieces) with Installation Screws - Amazon.com Since the repair we've never had drawers opening and the roads out here can be bad, even after 25 miles of washboard dirt roads. Have you checked your suspension for any issues? Is your tire pressure set BELOW 50 PSI MAX? Run ours anywhere between 42-46 depending on temp and altitude. Common cause for any interior cabin disarray is certainly running tire pressure too high.

Dave, our hull may be closer to yours, #107 vs #113. I actually disconnected mine since we stay hitched on many single overnights and when boondocking on a mountain site for safety. Don't want to drain the TV! Generally, our solar covers the amp draw of our fridge on DC or at times we could use about 6% while driving a longer day. Check the pic and look for the black wire disconnected on the left. Of course, test for voltage with and without connection to the TV or other 12V source. No 12V here and it might be hard to find along the path. First thing I would check is to open the 7-way connector on the Oliver side and see if you have continuity front to back. These connectors often get fried from corrosion. Sorry for the delayed response, just finished a busy week.

Ours is Furrion, front and streetside, and look to be original. I had to replace my streetside receptacle due to the threaded plastic portion had cracked into pieces. I used the wood screws supplied since I had no cracking and they snugged nicely. I certainly agree with machine screws and Nylock nuts, but harder to reach under the dinette and behind the EMS, etc. The front one is a no-brainer as the back is visible with doghouse removed. The part was $160 or so on e-Trailer.

So, if you were to land mount, for example when trees are over the Oliver, do you have an additional long cable, external terminal and a stand for it? Would be a pain to remove the rooftop cable. Another Q: what is the model of your thin solar panel? Link? Is it connected at the junction box for the stock panels? I could envision two of these left and right angled some to better catch the winter sun.

I asked this question on a mod thread, "Does anybody know a good fill product for screw holes in fiberglass?" This is an important subject, so I started a new discussion. And thank you @aaronorange for suggesting Marine-Tex Epoxy for this purpose. MARINE-TEX® EPOXY PUTTY - ITW Performance Polymers I have witnessed at least a dozen threads here where members have replaced shore power or solar terminals, and many other items screw-mounted where the screws have cracked the fiberglass. Many have just remounted as-is or used larger screws, into the cracked hole. If the screw hole is cracked, a proper repair would include filling and redrilling the hole. Our hull needs so many fiberglass repairs that I will work this summer. With all of my automotive experience, "autobody" has never been a strength. Never owned or repaired a fiberglass boat either. I have two 3/8" holes in the interior hole from removing the original TV mount. There is a small hole in the front made by a stone and a blemish behind the AC which looks like somebody banged it with a tool. I will remove the Dish Satellite and OMG the amount of damage OTT created in installing the dish is crazy. I like the Marine-Tex suggestion as I have learned that ITW also produces Permatex, a trusted product line that I have used in automotive work for 3-4 decades. I would also like to learn from your experiences and more about "how-to?" Besides suggested products, what are best practices in fiberglass repair work. Thank you for any advice you can provide!

VHB to the mount is pretty much permanent. @rideadeuce has used the term "semi-permanent" here and his earlier install thread. Why not permanent? To remove the dish, you have to climb up there, disconnect the cable and snap it off the stand. I'm not getting up on the roof of our Oliver except for installation, unless I really have to!

Never been a fan of FB, and after years Chris closed her account.

70 years later it’s another Chrysler Town & Country! 🤣

@rideadeuce Mike, thanks for this. I might be going crazy. I could swear I wrote a comment on this Monday night after you posted and it's not here! Must have not clicked the Submit button. Thank you for finding the correct part, as you stated, sourcing can be the difficult front work of the job. Made in USA and reasonable, nice! Question is, what was your reason for replacing the vent? For $16, I might replace mine just to remove the ugly of the old vent and Dicor on top of Dicor mess. I'm working this summer on removing all old Dicor and caulk so someday she will be ready to apply a decent shine. Your installation is clean, nice work as always. 😂

Likely ran out of juice, just a few miles down the road. 🤣

Agreed, the use of wood screws has cracked the fiberglass. It's very difficult with fiberglass to apply the right amount of torque to fasten and not overtighten. I would want to fill these cracked holes, to redrill cleanly or to use VHB afterwards depending. Does anybody know a good fill product for screw holes in fiberglass? Some kind of epoxy that plays well with fiberglass. @rideandfly's install is beautiful! OTT should consider this approach. However, there are times in installation work, where you do not have access to the back side to thread a nut.

I purchased the upgraded fan when a post came up last year. I will install it this summer with VHB with no rain guard as well. I learned the benefits of VHB in 2019 when installing a complete solar/inverter system in our Bigfoot Class-C. I doubled the solar mounts to be certain of strength (likely not necessary). Most roof-top items in the pic were installed by me, solar, new AC, Dish, 2 fantastic fans (old ones had manual cranks) and new fridge vent cap (everything white in color). I did the Dish first and regrettably used screws on that install. Each solar mount has 1x3" VHB 4950 and not one screw. The bigfoot has a fiberglass roof too and don't gunk up your install thinking you need Dicor on top for absolutely no reason, yuck hate the stuff. VHB is UV and weather resistant and remember there are no hole in the fiberglass, no way to leak rainwater. Five years later, the new owner has no complaints and I believe 3M states VHB has an expected 20-year life.

When I see pics like this, it's such a shame. OTT should REALLY start using adhesives or VHB tape on so many parts attached the fiberglass hulls, both inner and outer. Look at the cracking at EVERY hole. There is a little stress on this terminal when plugging and unplugging, and it's not weight bearing. Same goes for interior switch panels and truly dozens of items. We would be able to replace parts and upgrade without concern of screw hole alignment. Many of you fear drilling into your Olivers. OTT should have more concern re this matter.

Looking forward to meeting you! Sites 61 and 71 are back-to-back.

A simple way to connect the new DC charging lead, using a standard (larger) lug, would be to merely double up on the battery lead on the far right in this picture. There are enough threads on the bolt, and you have a direct connection without going through the bus and any resistance it may cause.

Chris & John, hull #113 (un-named) will be joining you on site #71, also arriving a day early. 😂

When I was first thinking about adding one of these, I assumed I needed an isolated converter to remove electrical interference between electronics in the TV (ECM, sensors, radio) and TT (solar charger, perhaps other). This article recommends the non-isolated merely based on cost. It does not address nor give example of possible interference. Isolated vs non Isolated DC to DC Charger - Which one to get (cleversolarpower.com) Then I installed a Pepwave router in the TV. I connected it directly to the TV battery. At first temporarily, thinking if there was interference with the router and ECM, I would just run the router when camped and eventually add an isolated AGM battery in the truck bed. I have not needed to do so. The TV with router on driving down the road has not shown any bleep of issue. We have received clean 5G while driving down the highway and no issue in the TV. BTW, I also have an Edge Juice w/ Attitude installed which is a supplemental ECM, with multiple sensors, gauges etc. and no interference between the Juice and Pepwave, of course all sharing the same TV ground The more I think about it, while towing/charging most everything is off in the TT (except solar charger), so what kind of interference could there be? Can anybody provide example(s) of probable relevant interference? If not, the Victron 50A non-isolated charger should be just fine, just as @MAX Burner's installation has proved.

Don't take me too seriously, just poured a cup myself! 🤣

You got me on this one. I did not fully consider this line, "I turned it to fan mode and the growl goes away." So yes, in this case I agree with @CRM that it must be compressor related. If this exclusive product, just one year old can "jump up off the mounts" Truma as a product line has way too many issues. Truma Water Heat Fire in the Hole - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) and there are more complaints. So never mind what I wrote about changing fan speeds, turning off-n-on, etc. That will not work. Perhaps you need to get that compressor back on its mounts, whatever that entails. Very sorry this is happening to you when you have immediate travel plans.

I'm with you, thank you. You can't get me to do anything but hookup the hose at the dump station! 🤣 Separate liquids from solids and more cr@p, NOT! (pun intended)

Yes 3600 LB payload is certainly HD! The 2003 Ram 2500 I drove for years had 9000 GVRW and it weighed 7200 LBS empty, so half the payload. Very nice truck. You should just throw the Ollie in back! Small world, we owned a 2014 Passat TDI. Never towed with it, but loaded full we got 47 MPG highway when we moved from TX to S FL. We were moving, so Chris was driving that, and I was pulling an 18' cargo trailer with our Ram. I had literally every SF of the car packed. Loved that car, drove it hard for 4 years. Got 35 MPG commuting and I drove it heavy-footed to make time. VW bought it back in the TDI settlement, writing us a check for the amount we paid for it, taxed and titled.