jd1923

Chris, you may want to do what I did to #113, now that our hulls are 10 years old! And your grounds look more corroded, seeing the color of the copper. I removed each and every one, trimmed the wires back 1/2” and stripped them for clean fresh copper, retighten good!

2 1/2 years never a false alarm for us. Though no RV antifreeze or hairspray ever in our hull. 🤣 The test button will produce the alarm for a few seconds, and then it continues to be ON. As far as a real test, please see my comment above!

Given these detectors have a Silence/Test switch on the face, I'm not adding a switch and don't believe it's a good idea given it can be left off when needed. Is there a brand preference? Meaning are some brands more effective than others? The brand we have now is RV Safe as pictured above and this link: https://www.amazon.com/RV-Safe-RVLP-2W-Propane-Alarm/dp/B08VCBH66H/ An Atwood detector was OEM on our hull many years ago, reason OTT cut that big square hole in the fiberglass. This model is a replacement that I believe fits recessed into that spot (though I have not yet verified dimensions). It also has a strength readout. Hopefully it's not too bright under the dinette but the RV Safe model has quite a bright green light too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0F8GMBQ5B/ I'm not sure I trust a built-in "Test" button! We have a LP torch Chris uses for cooking (for melting cheese and browning foods). It will release LP without igniting and when lit it should produce CO. Perhaps a real test is in order time to time. I should wear ear protection and I'll report back when I get around to this test. So, does anybody know that one brand is better at detecting CO and LP than another?

and to @Geronimo John, who nicely wrote, “Are we there yet?” My answer is “Yep” but perhaps not yet at $500 mark (unless one LiTime 230 Ah does ya). Which btw just beats four big heavy lead-acid batteries of the day!

Still working on that rig?! Who isn’t? Come see us in Prescott too. Say hi to Wen. 😎

Nan, given you’re a female alone, we certainly understand. If you want to visit Arizona, come to Prescott and see us first! 😂 The Q is only worth going to see other Oliver Owners (otherwise there are 100s of better boondocking sites in AZ! Slow response on this thread! Hey @ScubaRx, if you’re coming, dinner is on us this time! Hey @MAX Burner, it’s perfectly OK you have a new TT! Love to see it. i started this thread to poll those who frequent our great Forum. We have 3 weeks off and if the Q is a bust, we’re going to head towards Tucson, get there asap to tour the SE corner of Arizona. Didn’t want to go that way for a while, but the boarder is secure, god bless. Hope to see y’all! 😎

Yours is wired under the bed? Ours is mounted to and wired under the rear dinette seat already. On the right side of the picture below you can faintly see the wiring and a large square cutout. Too bad OTT mounted a recessed model detector requiring this awful 3x3" square hole in the fiberglass! Prior owner replaced it with a surface mount model, same as @Rivernerd has pictured above. Ours is dated 2026 so very soon we have to replace ours. It's simple to rewire most anything from under the beds to under the dinette given that the combined 12VDC and 120VAC power panel is under the dinette. I moved almost everything out from under the beds as you can read in this post.

My take… 😎 If you own one or more 100 Ah Battleborn batteries you purchased years ago, let it go and it‘s time to scrap them! For $670 (less than what you spent on one (1) 100 Ah Battleborn you can purchase the new 320 Ah LiiTime mini! BTW, so cool! Or for $1200 (I just purchased a 3rd one at 15% OFF for their BF promo) you can buy the Epoch Essentials 300 Ah battery! We’ll be running 900 Ah for 2026 and beyond, so cool! 😎

Who's going and when? The Q Big Tent runs Jan 17-25. The Fiberglass RV Gathering will run from February 6-9. I have time off work second half of Jan through first week of Feb and we'd like to visit for a few days when other Oliver Owners are there. Love to meet old friends and new! We weren't so much for Dome Rock (pic1) last year except for meeting Oliver owners! It's a bit crowded with the constant whine of nearby I-10 (and too many little Casitas)! Later we stayed several miles up Plomosa Rd NE of town. It was quiet up on the ridge with great views (pics 2-3). Hope to meet y'all there! 😎

If only there was a Transporter to get there quickly! Only 2800 miles one-way Prescott AZ to New Harbor ME! One day we should head that way...

Going to finish my Turbro install soon. I have next week off. I hadn't planned on adding the Cielo thermostat, unless after a season of use it is deemed necessary in our use case. Humidity is rarely an issue in our travels. Also, @BigTexas nicely wrote-up a concern that was in the back of my mind...

John, mine had an intermittent issue and the reseller refunded upon return.

Nice to meet you Jamie and Sandi! (virtually of course) It would be great to visit Maine in our Oliver! Your home state is the only state in the 48 CONUS states I have not yet traveled! @Jamie Peghiny I'm with you on everything you wrote, except we are Amazon junkies for speed of delivery and ease of returns. However, I've been on eBay since August 2002, long before Amazon was started! Checkout jdokos1 on ebay where my feedback hit a perfect #1000 and 100%. I started back in 2002 selling old car parts from classic cars I parted. Recently on eBay I purchased Norcold exterior fridge vents a new pair at $35 each, about 1/2 the cost from the regular parts dealers. Last summer, I purchased a new Barker VIP3000 jack for the front of the Oliver. It was a one-off NIB item. Seller accepted Offer at $200 which was an amazing deal. eBay is now easier on returns where they supply a return ship label, often at no cost to the buyer (likely to better compete with Amazon). However, don't buy Timken bearings on eBay or Amazon. They will be knock-offs. I purchased a complete Toyota rebuild kit to replace the timing belt on a T100 truck. When it came there were 10+ parts all in Toyota package. When I looked at the casting of the water pump and the issues with other parts I realized these parts were faked! Wow, did they look real at first. eBay helped with an immediate refund and soon that seller was banned. I would buy lug nuts from this highly rated Seller if they reply with a good answer. I always "Contact Seller" first and only buy from Sellers that reply promptly. eBay and Amazon both have items you cannot easily find anywhere else. I have restored a half dozen classic cars and 3 motorcycles purchasing NOS parts on eBay! Welcome to The Forum and best wishes to you traveling in your new Oliver. Come see us in the SW this winter or next. There are always a lot of us at Quartzsite AZ (Jan-Feb). There should be a Forum post started on that soon! We'll coast down the mountain to meet other Oliver Owners this winter in the great valley of the SW, the warmest part of the USA! 😎

My first rule with technology is keep things simple and go with defaults in configuration! That being said, Ron and some others, I believe it was @Treasure Coast Vault who first installed the Pioneer Inverter A/C, and both have positive results with this thermostat/power on/off control product. I'm working on a Turbro Inverter A/C install. My plan again is to go with installing this product by defaults without additional complication. I have already installed a simple Honeywell heat-only thermostat, it works well. I do not believe I would need this product since humidity is not generally a concern in the Southwest. Love the input though! Thank you @Ronbrink!

Yes, your conclusion makes sense! Perhaps one more try will work... 😎 A 15 or 20A ATS can be used with an inverter when the inverter does not have a built-in ATS. It is used to switch between shore power and inverted power for a 15 or 20A circuit. Our Victron has a built-in ATS but the 2KW Xantrex inverter OTT originally installed did not (see pic, ATS in middle). An external 15A ATS was added to switch all circuits except A/C to use shore power when present or inverted power when not. Some Oliver owners added the 20 KISEA ATS to add switching for the A/C circuit. The picture below shows the KISEA I installed for literally a few days before I decided on the Victron upgrade. Both ATS in the picture would switch between shore or inverted power. The KISEA for the A/C circuit and the OTT installed Xantrex ATS to switch the other circuits (microwave, outlets, etc.). These are NOT the main 30A ATS which is as follows: The main ATS installed in most RVs is the PD5100 a 30A ATS. These must be/always are 30A, used mainly to switch between shore power and generator. On the Oliver it switches between the side and front 120VAC 30A Furrion shore power inlets.

If they are truly Gorilla brand or McGard (another good brand I've used) then they're good. What @Geronimo John is referring to is that there are a lot of China made knock-offs on eBay (Amazon too for that matter). Instead buy from Summit Racing or eTrailer or another reliable and authorized reseller. This eBay seller has Feedback number at 9850 and 99.8% rating, likely their parts are good, but who knows. @Jamie Peghiny I believe the lug nuts you found is the correct size and shape but cannot be certain w/o a forum signature with your hull#, etc.

Not on the older hulls! Chris owns #110 and ours is #113. OTT installed a 2KW Xantrex inverter in our Oliver (inverter only, no charger). The PD charger installed in the power panel was the only charger (hence Chris’ recent upgrade to the PD charger with the LiFePO4 switch)!

For certain, it’s nothing you did! 9 times out of 10, Amazon used is like new with damaged packaging. 1 of 10 times you get an item used and damaged by the previous Amazon customer! Just exchange it. I’ve purchased well over 50 Amazon used items through the years and 90% of the time they’re a great bargain. Like my Engage pickleball paddle, $220 new, $160 Like New from the ‘Engage’ store on Amazon. It came new but not in retail packaging, OMG, I can’t have that! I ordered this same humidifier Amazon used Like New at $79 (vs $136, for a $57 or 42% off savings!) and it arrived today. It looks perfect, except a prior owner wrote something in pencil on the instruction booklet. I’ll let you know when I get a chance to test it. To test it, I’ll have to hang a couple wet towels in the Oliver to create some humidity! RH today in Prescott was 20%! 😎 We will use this tool rarely but should keep it on the closet floor for when traveling east!

The KISEA ATS is used when you have a 2KW inverter that has NO internal ATS (as all modern, capable 3KW inverters have). This variety of ATS allows you to switch between main inverter circuits and add an A/C circuit. Search for keyword ‘KISEA’ and the story we be told, in several forum posts. The ATS required to decipher two (2) shore power inputs, is the PD5100, or variation. It’s ALWAYS the PD5100 a 30A ATS! 😎

So, you can replace it or simply bypass the ATS. For us, we only use the Shore Power connection streetside. Our PD5100 ATS was about to falter last year and ahead of a major trip, and instead of replacing it, the decision I made was to bypass the ATS! Do this if you are not a generator guy (which is truly against my religion, given the current art of LiFePO4 and inverter technology). I do not need the front Shore Power connection and hence, I do not need an ATS! Less stuff, less cr@p to go wrong! 😎 Note top-right in the picture where you see the interior side of the main shore inlet. Normally, this cable goes to the ATS (large box on the left). The ATS will have two (2) incoming shore power connections and one out to the power panel. KI most RVs the ATs switches as needed between Shore Power and an onboard generator. I rewired ours to bypass the ATS, now wired directly to the EMS (wire it directly to the 120VAC power panel if your older hull does not have an EMS). I left the other cables in place to revert if ever necessary, but never again will I have to worry about the ATS as wired (or spend another $140 to replace it). I have replaced the PD5100 ATS in every (3 of 3) RVs we have owned! It is the nature of the beast! 🤣

We entered from the east, Hwy AZ-87 to Cline Cabin Rd to FS 124 then 401. Dirt as soon as you leave AZ-87 and it's a long way to Four Peaks. We drove about 6 miles to where we camped. This route and the one via El Oso Rd both go all the way to the wilderness area. It would take a good 2 hours on dirt to go the whole way! "The Rolls OHV Area" is on this route which was fine for an overnight, but even though we did dirt riding for 20 years, I do NOT like to camp with engine noises and the dirt in the air the OHV creates! Perhaps El OSO is better? It's a shorter run off AZ Hwy-188.

Let us know if you have questions getting ready to install! Good upgrade for you! 😂

If you happen to head south, you have an invitation to visit and we can fix this! 😎

Thank you so much @Roger and @rideandfly! I just bought one Amazon used “Like New” for $79! (they have more available at this price.)

Roger, were you able to confirm this after purchase. The Amazon listing does not state "compressor" anywhere on the page. Thank you, JD