jd1923

This part always gets me too! The feeling of "FINALLY" getting to your stop, after a road trip with bad weather and white knuckles. And I'll drive 30 miles longer on a back road not to get nerved up from standstill traffic as well. Must be my city roots. Glad to see you're up and running. Enjoy the boondocking in the mountains while you can! 🙂

The City Water hose connection is to use sinks/toilet directly. Prior to Boondocking, at your last water source, you must connect the supply hose to the Fresh Tank connection to fill your fresh tank. The City Water connection will not do this. With a full Fresh Tank and the valves pictured above in the Normal position, your water pump should pull from the Fresh Tank for use. Perhaps you missed the fill step and if so you will have to drive for water.

Epoch updated their site too, $100 less than before plus a 10% OFF code. 460AH for $1,169 after discount or 300AH for $899 (Victron Comms more). All authorized dealers should be offering this. Hope it doesn't end soon. Their prices keep getting better.

Awesome! BTW, the Epoch Essentials are all $100 less than recently and 10% off! This is closer to 20% off! OMG 🤣

Makes sense and thank you. After being in the microwave cabinet for our oven install, it seemed you could get around it as you did. Question: do you use the Beech Lane controller much? Wondering is after you get it where you want it, does it need to change. Hoping you don't need to mess with it much, and if so i may install it behind the lower vent opening. I'm thinking of running new 14 AWG automotive wire (I have spools) from the junction down below (mine has a junction that I do not see you your pic, I will show later) up to the switch in the light panel and then back down to the upper vent area for the fans. This way I still have the switch, all new wiring and the junction down below looks like 8 AWG, at least 10, and it showed 13.6V. I like the specs on the Beech Lane better than the Titan and there are so many to choose from. It looks big, but the height should just fit. I like the lower 1800 RPM and the 25 dB rating and IP65 rating. Thanks again!

We booked site 71, see you there! I started a new link on adding a cooling fan. Yours would be somewhat different, but worth doing. It would be painful to defrost often on extended trips.

@DunnYet, great pics and glad your mind is off the fridge and back to having fun! “Back to Texas” we love Texas! Going to the Texas Rally, Inks lake in October? Would be great to meet you there! Been 6 years for us, and over 10 years since Texas was our home. Enjoy your travels!

or any fridge! Not to worry now until you hit sea level and warmer temps. Enjoy the High Country while you’re there and don’t go to lower elevation, until goin’ home. We were 94 in Prescott today, 115 in Phoenix! I will link my new thread here, soon re a cooling fan for the fridge. That’s all you need, just enjoy the Rockies in the meantime. Stay High and stay cool! Yeah

Did some testing today. It's only 95 out, must be 115 down in Phoenix, yuk! Yes, as @rideandfly and @mossemi mentioned there is a simple thermal switch screwed into the top RHS of the condenser. It was difficult to get a reading before the switch on the bottom end, so I pulled both female spade connectors. Voltage readings were odd, most prevalent number was about 4.3V and it read as high as 5.5V and sometimes lower too, weird. No where near 12V and this is a 12V fan. I made a spade jump wire to connect the fan, bypassing the thermal switch. The fan would not run at all even giving it a quick push start. The switch from the light switch panel was working, going from 4.3V to zero and back with the switch. I used the ground from the junction below with the heavy gauge yellow and the light blue wire to the fan. It looked to be connected properly as @DavePhelps had suggested checking. Testing B+ and B- at the junction box read 13.6V which is the same number the Victron app shows for the house batteries. What the heck? What would produce 4V or 5V and not 12V? Is the wiring so old and worn it has become one big resistor? Hope not, which could cause a fire. So, the easy fix for $90 is to replace this fan with the Titan or Beech Lane dual fans that other owners have done. I would not be able to use the switched power since it is not delivering 12V. I could run new wire from the junction below. In AUTO mode do these turn on-n-off with temp? I would mount the control box behind one of the panels, not in the upper cabinet as one post showed unless it can be fished there w/o going through the microwave cabinet, as I just insulated that cabinet for an oven. Can the ON/OFF temp settings be adjusted on these? I would hate to bypass the switch. Maybe I can run +12V up to the switch panel and back down. Any ideas are appreciated as always! Thanks

Exactly, this is why I have not changed Zerks to 90s or turned the bolts inside out so the Zerks point to the inside (not crawling under either). I would rather jack up one side, use the air gun and quickly remove both wheels. Inspect each tire and remove any gravel. Check the brake action and tighten adjusters if needed. Check the wheel bearings and repack only if needed. Then without the weight of the wheels and tires, and a basic grease gun pointed straight on, all 8 Zerks take grease easily. Clean off all excess grease and replace caps on the fittings. When this final step is ignored, the fittings can get stuck and then use a thin punch to push ball end in Zerk, remove fitting to clean if really bad. Remount wheels and work the other side!

Chris, since you're visiting OTT very soon. You could just have them test and fix yours quickly! There should not be a reason to pull the fridge.

This is a good idea too. Thanks Dave!

Thanks to all who have replied, very helpful! Mossey, this is very clear. Made me think yeah Duh, I can catch a ground in the lower section. Seeing the thermal switch makes me think the female spade connector on the red fan wire is connecting to it on the right side of the top opening. I will have time by today or tomorrow for testing the fan. Wonder if I can use a blow dryer to activate the thermal switch. I'll let you know.

I’ve found so many things in life exasperating ever since the automobile needed more than gas, air and exhaust, and 12VDC! We don’t need no stinken computer, no sensors. We don’t need Wall Street types to turn a good App into their food chain. i can still read a map and most often download BLM maps in the Avenza app, make my own trails, in so many places never listed on these apps. Hope they do not mess up Avenza, but when they do we got our paper maps,

Stayed in Roswell a half dozen times in our biannual trips from Georgetown TX to Prescott AZ, over a 10 year period. We didn’t get much into the alien thing, but LOVE Lincoln Co, just two hours west. What a beautiful place up at 7K ft, Lincoln Co, Mt Capitan, Ruidoso NM, and home of Billy the Kid, just145 years ago! 😂

Very much appreciate your insight and feedback! More so, looking forward to meeting you Pete, Bosker and #14. at our Texas Rally coming up very soon! 😂

In reviewing another post on an Isotherm cooling issue, I realized I should test the condition of the fan in our Oliver. Ours is the original absorption style OEM install of a 2016 hull. It has the oddest thing, a power switch on the light panel. Why a switch, given it should be thermostatically controlled? The ON/OFF switch does not seem to do anything. In fact, I have never heard it run in the 30 days we've been on the road over the last year. I went to test for 12VDC. The red wire has a spade connection that I can get to. The blue wire disappears above the fan into the foil taping, looking like it goes internal to some control. Given that's the ground side, I thought I would write here before cutting into it to test for voltage or to bench test the old fan. @ScubaRx likely knows how this is designed. How about some of you with 2016 models, like @topgun2 hull 117, or @Wayfinder hull 110 (I know I'm forgetting somebody). Does your hull have this setup like this?

Thank you, Sherry. Yours and @bugeyedriver's looked like cover plates and I need something that would insert 2" deep so that heat would not go outside the microwave cabinet and behind the wall. There is a ~1/2" gap between. I found SS choices too, but feared the metal would conduct the heat and I wanted the heat to pass through. Yours must have something to seal the inner area when they custom built the early Ollies.

Always loved these, ever since potato cakes at Arby's back in the 60-70s. Art, I've seen some of the great feasts you cook in your pictures here!

Ran a valid test today. Had to wait 24 hours for the glue to set on the vents. Cooked hash brown patties for our breakfast today. The Emeril was set on air fryer, 380 degrees for 21 minutes. The vents were just warm to the touch, not hot. The RUUVi sensor mounted above the Dometic thermostat on the right upper outer wall of the oven went up just one degree, kicked the A/C on. The cabinet facing, in front just above the oven, was a little warmer than the vents, yet I could still rest the back of my hand on it NP. The kitchen cabinet above was not hot at all due to the heat insulation wrap installed. I'd say this mod passed the test! 😂 We can now have crispy air-fried foods on the road, no setup time dragging a heavy oven out of storage, no extra time cleaning up. This way, we will likely use it daily when camping, like the larger Emeril we have in our home kitchen. Anybody else interested in this oven? Check out the Amazon used price at $80! They also list a "very good" one for $85, that is new but not in original packaging: Amazon.com: Emeril Lagasse Everyday 360 Air Fryer, 360° Quick Cook Technology, XL capacity,12 Pre-Set Cooking Functions including Bake, Rotisserie. Broil, Pizza, Slow Cook, Toaster and Much More, Stainless Steel : Home & Kitchen

@Ronbrink it would be interesting to see if the reboot changes the voltage readings. I still do not believe that such a reboot requires days waiting. When you test after the reboot, connect a quality multimeter at your batteries as a third measurement. I'm guessing the Victron shunt is over-estimating voltage, that the 12.3 may be the better number because the 1400W A/C load (12A) should cause a voltage drop. Less likely, it could be the other way around, the 12.3 being a bad reading. Yes, these numbers SHOULD be the same within 0.01V, given the heavy gauge and short distance of the battery cables to the inverter.

This is informative and I get it about the freezer door. I believe I remember reading a post from @HDRider about replacing a broken door hinge. This is what @SeaDawg was pointing to. If your airflow is limited it could act this way. If you find your Isotherm fridge works well at elevation and cool nights, then the fridge is likely OK. Very good work! When you get home, maybe add a cooling fan like others have mentioned on our forum. My older hull has an OEM external fan and ON/OFF switch (see pic). Never seen a switch label like this in another RV.

@SeaDawg yes, we have the old style. I mentioned removing the add-on fan in an earlier post. @DunnYet, we have not heard back re what you may have tried? @topgun2 the fan you showed is what we suggested in removing such device. I like a fridge that runs on propane and will likely keep ours for a while. The freezer is large (I read the Isotherm freezer is teeny and that it has cycling issues on many online forums). It fits two of our jumbo ice cube trays, large cubes for special drinks, and it cools a new tray down every night. 😂

Anybody need a LE2 cover?

But the deal is these models have an OFF switch. No LED lights when off. The caps are dust caps, for exterior use or seldom use. I already cut the caps off in our old sockets (2 of 4, the ones we use with USB connections) since they do not have LEDs and were always dangling, just being in the way.