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My 2 cents: We've done fine with just the Norcold 3-way trailer fridge. It holds more than we expected. Harbor Freight has inexpensive multimeters. We have the Progressive Industries 30 amp surge protector. It's an outlet tester, too. https://a.co/d/7r1GfAS We have the Fort Knox hitch lock. A bit cheaper. https://a.co/d/2mTY5Z7 Trash can that hangs on pantry door: https://a.co/d/c1gUm5B Agree on Magma pots, TPMS, and rubber chocks. Especially TPMS! I'm too tall for a shower floor cover. We have a small mat that fits the shower floor. During the day it keeps dirt, etc. off the shower floor. In the morning, it becomes the bath mat. The are other products reviewed on our blog. Have fun shopping.

I second this suggestion. I installed the Truck System Technologies TST 507 TPMS on our Ollie and our previous TT. Wouldn’t consider towing a trailer without this important safety equipment. Now on clearance for $149 at TechnoRV!

Your list is pretty good. Although you might want to make sure you will use each item enough to warrant storing and taking them. Space is a consideration Here are a couple of additional things that I always take: - Small plastric storage bins for inside the pantry (take some measurements and look on Amazon) so your items stay in place while traveling - Since you have a F150, Anderson No-Sway Hitch - Anderson Levelers - 3 Anderson jack blocks (to reduce the length of travel for the electric jacks) - Camco Waste Tank (so you do not need to break camp to empty a waste tank) - Some replacemnt fuses (check the sizes that you have in your trailer) - Small electric Dehumidifer - Tire changing iron to loosen the wheel nuts in case of a flat - A second 30 amp power cord (and adapter to connect both cords) for time when one cord can not make the distance to a CG power pedistal. - Two water hoses to connect to a distance water source. - TPMS system to monitor tire pressure and temperature while in transit. - Trailer wheel chocks for use while disconnected from the truck. - Maybe a RV GPS. The Garmin RV 890 is great. You can program your trip, find gas, find CG's and it will keep you off roads that have height restrictions. - Lubricant to pour down the waste and gray tanks to lubricate the tank valves Welsome to the forum. Happy travels

Shortly after arriving home from our delivery trip to Hohenwald, I installed a TireMinder i10 Tire Pressure Management System (TPMS), with six sensors, a monitor and a signal booster (installed later). Four of the sensors were fitted to the valve stems of the four trailer wheels on the ground, one on the trailer spare and one to the tow vehicle spare. The sensors transmit tire pressure and tire temperature status continuously to the small monitor in the tow vehicle. The 433 MHz RF signal booster is to ensure the signals from the sensors reach the monitor. The TPMS is quite configurable and can support up to 10 sensors simultaneously. Thresholds can be user specified and the system is preconfigured to create alerts for slow leaks or catastrophic loss of tire pressure. I first mounted the sensors to all the six wheels. The sensors appeared to have no problem communicating with the monitor in the tow vehicle. I deferred about a month installing the signal booster. Mounting the sensors is quite straightforward, requiring only insertion of provided disc batteries to the sensors, then screwing the sensors onto the valve stems. I like the inclusion of a lock nut to secure the sensors to the valve stems, using a provided small wrench. TireMinder Air Pressure & Temperature Sensor TireMinder i10 Monitor On each spare wheel I added 36" long extension hoses ($11 each) and 90 degree valve stem extensions ($7/pair), based on a recommendation from @John E Davies. The TireMinder sensors are mounted to the end of the extension hoses, which are routed through the wheel spokes to the accessible side of the spares. The valve stem extensions allow the hoses to be attached to the valve stems with no danger of kinking. These accessories eliminate a huge PITA- both spares are stored with their valve stems inaccessible. The trailer spare mounts with the valve stem facing the rear wall of the trailer. The tow vehicle spare is stowed valve stem down in a well under the cargo area at the rear of the vehicle. Now the TPMS reports the tire pressure with no hassle. Even if the spares require addition of air, the access is easy, without removing the spares from their storage positions. I always intended to install the signal booster, but had not settled on the best location. The installation instructions recommend locating the signal booster on the undercarriage, toward the front of travel trailers, with the antennas pointed toward the ground. The signal booster requires 12 volts DC for operation. I searched the OTTO forum seeking information on locations chosen by Oliver LEII owners for mounting such signal boosters. I found references to mounting signal boosters within the doghouse or in one of the upper storage compartments, neither of which appeared to offer ease of connection to a 12 VDC supply. Other owners indicated they had not installed the signal booster, since the monitor seemed to reliably provide tire pressure and temperature information. While vacuuming fiberglass dust from all areas accessible under the interior access hatches, I found what appeared to be an ideal location for the TPMS signal booster. The hatch under the rear dinette seat is the location of the Progressive Industries Surge Protector, mounted to the wall on the aisle side of the compartment. Adjacent to that location is a large area of unobstructed wall. Just below the surge protector is a ground bus and on the forward wall is the rear of the DC distribution panel. I believe this is a very desirable location for the signal booster. It is located low, slightly forward of the axles, in a protected space near the needed power supply. TPMS Signal Booster Location The TireMinder Signal Booster is attached to the fiberglass wall using an Industrial Velcro Coin, which enables easy removal. TPMS 12 VDC Power Switch I chose the top of the Progress Industries Surge Protector to mount a switch to turn the 12 VDC power supply to the TireMinder Signal Booster ON/OFF. The signal booster has a green light to indicate the power is ON. The wires from the signal booster are very thin and are both black (despite the instruction manual indicating one to be red and the other black). I don't believe it matters which is +12 VDC and which is Ground (GND). I routed the wires along cables in the compartment. The pink zip ties appearing in the photos provide clues to the routing. I arbitrarily selected a position on the Ground Bus to mount one of the wires to be Ground. The other wire was routed to the rear of the DC Distribution Panel, mounted on the forward wall of the compartment. Fuse position 14 was unused, so I selected it and connected the second wire from the TireMinder Signal Booster, using a crimp-on connector. Finally, I inserted a 3 amp fuse to the front side of the DC Distribution Panel, position 14. DC Ground Bus DC Distribution Panel (Rear) DC Distribution Panel (Front) Summary Although I had encountered no problems with the communication between the tire pressure/temperature sensors and the TireMinder Monitor, I believe having the signal booster installed reduces the risk of loss of communication between the sensors and the monitor. I have been leaving the signal booster on while traveling and turning power OFF when in storage. The signal booster draws only 75mA (Transmitting) to 14mA (Inactive). I tested the range with the signal booster installed and powered ON. I was able to walk over 300 feet from the trailer with the monitor receiving signals. I have been impressed with the TireMinder TPMS system. I have not mounted the monitor in the tow vehicle, but keep it on the center console, where I can view it as desired, and also hear any alarms which may occur. I purchased the TireMinder i10 and six sensors from TechnoRV (https://www.technorv.com/) for $279.65 (no shipping and no sales tax).

I thought that I'd post this in case anyone else runs into the situation that I did whereby the TPM sensor battery compartment was unable to be removed with the supplied stamped sheet metal wrench. In my case the battery compartment was so stuck on that the supplied wrench began rounding off the plastic hex nut profile of the sensor, had I gone any further the sensor would have been ruined. I ended up using a 1/2 inch six-sided socket that provided much more surface area contact than the wrench and the socket did not mar the surface of the plastic nut; even doing that I was unable to grasp the barrel end of the sensor with enough force using my hand to unscrew the barrel from the sensor until I squeezed the barrel between the padded hand grips of my channel-lock pliers ( don't use the jaw end or you'll risk crushing the barrel ). Curiously ProSmart used to ship a tool that more accurately fit the profile of the sensor but have included only the stamped sheet metal wrench in the current kits which provides significantly less surface area contact leading to the possibility of destroying the plastic nut profile. Also, when replacing tires I'd recommend changing the tire stems to metal versions rather than rubber to prevent premature failure of the stem as a result of the added weight of the TPM sensors.

Can anyone tell what breand of metal valve stems work well on our rims (2021 Elite II). I purchased a TST TPMS system and want to use metal stems. Had a local dealer install the metal stems. The TPMS sensors have been on three days. Today when checking the tires to see if the tpms read the same as my guage, one tire was a few pounds low. I removed the sensor, added air, then when I screwed the sensor back on there was a distinct air leak. Yjought it was the core, but it seems air is leaking where the stem meets the rim. must be a bad seal. So my thought is our rims may need a particular brand of stems? Monday moring i'll be on the phone with delaer.

Greetings! I need to remove the TPMS transmitters to inflate the tires but I can't get them off. The little wrench they supplied does not do the trick. Any other suggestions? Carl

I just installed the TireMinder i10 on my 2022 Oliver which was straightforward enough; however now two of four tires have leaking (stuck) stem valves! I managed to screw all the transmitters on so the leaks are stopped and the tire pressure is at the planned 55 psi. Questions: Is this a common problem/result of installing this product? I assume I need to install (learn how to) some new valve stems and not some how fix? Any recommendations on brand or model for new stems? Install method advise? I have Cooper Tires "Discover HT3" tires as equipped by the factory. Thanks for any advise.

Ron, Thanks for the post. It is a good reminder for all of us (especially single axle Elite owners) to use a TPMS system to monitor the pressure of our tires. Question: Did you have a metal valve stem? The centrifugal forces exerted on the valve stems by the mass of the monitor can result in over stressing a rubber valve stem, so metal stems are preferred with TPMS. So glad your system alerted you to the loss of pressure in time for you to safely get off the road. Pete

A friend with 2021 Ford f150 is ordering an Elite. Can anyone tell me if Ford supplied tpms and backup camera is available to work woth Ford screen?

Part of Annual Maintenance is to Check Tire PSI. We have TPMS on our tires. At last year's Maintenance service, per the invoice the PSI was not checked due to our TPMS. The TPMS keeps track of PSI. We can remove the TPMS upon arrival at the service center. If you remove your TPMS, how do you keep track of each sensor to its tire. What do people do? I know many have TPMS. I would like Oliver to be able to check the PSI as we believe one tire may be low. Maybe I am being overly concerned about something of little consequence. ty

This is a LOCKED thread. I wanted to put all my links in one spot so that they are easy for folks to find. Search remains a real problem with this forum! This thread does not allow comments. If you have questions, find a dead link or just want to talk, you can comment on the appropriate thread, or start a new thread or just Message me. I will add to this page as I start new threads, so hopefully it will continue to be a good up-to-date reference. NEWEST POSTS ARE AT THE TOP. I am not going to bother to alphabetize them, LOL. I put a link to this page in my signature, so you can get here directly from any of my comments. 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A short follow up: I dropped off my (spare) tire/wheel today just to be sure that my local DCT had the metal stem I needed in stock. I have an appt Wednesday morning to have all 4 tires rotated, balanced and the remaining 4 new metal stems installed. They just could not squeeze me in today. Not a big deal, and fair enough as they were pretty slammed. They were kind enough to at least get my spare swapped out. No charge of course. I returned home, remounted the spare on the back of XPLOR. This precludes me having to remove the bike rack etc at DCT this Wednesday when I get the rest of the wheels done. This metal stem seems to be a bit lower profile or shorter than the OEM rubber stems which suits me fine. I am thinking it will keep the TST TPMS cap TPMS transmitter a little closer to the inside of the wheel away from road rockets. I am really liking the Cooper tires and as they appear to be wearing really well. I will replace them with a new this set next year. Very happy to have 16” rims as well. Cheers! Roll On!!

I have the TireTraker TPMS with the external sensors that thread onto the valve stem in place of the normal valve caps. While doing my spring cleaning on the Ollie, I noticed that all 4 aluminum rims have a wear mark on the rim directly adjacent to the valve stem (see picture). In researching this a bit, I found some comments on other forums about the weight of the external TPMS sensor causing the valve stem to deflect when the tire is rotating at highway speeds, and in some cases even causing the valve stem to fail. Anyone else observed this? Has anyone ever experienced a rubber valve stem failure while using the external sensors?

In looking at TPMS for the trailer that we are getting in November, I like the TST 507 tpms. It gives both tire pressure and temperature of the trailer tires and an audible warning when limits are exceeded. My vehicle has a tpms which lights up when the pressure is low. I like the idea of monitoring all tires (8) on truck and trailer. Is that overkill? Do you all just monitor the trailer and rely on the vehicle system for pressure only? Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

I was initially very interested in the ford wired backup camera, but was very hesitant bc I had to be hardwired to the trailer. Seemed like a lot of hassle for very little benefit. I currently have an after market tpms and the Oliver factory installed backup trailer camera. The monitor is a little small and it sure would be nice to have the backup camera on the trailer display on the truck head unit, but I am very happy with what I have. I find I only really use the backup camera for a few minutes when I back into a campsite or storage for our Oliver. The wired ford backup camera and tpms seems like a long run for a short slide! Just my humble opinion.

“HOW OFTEN IS A SENSOR TRANSMITTING INFORMATION? This varies among manufacturers, but generally, sensors have different settings while parked and while in motion. The better question is what causes the sensor to transmit? When a sudden change in pressure is detected, the sensor should transmit whether the sensor is stationary or moving. When the tire starts to roll, tiny accelerometers cause the sensor to wake up and start broadcasting at regular intervals. In rolling mode, sensors transmit, on average, once every 30-120 seconds. While parked or in stationary mode, depending on the manufacturer, sensors may transmit only when a significant pressure change is detected. If a TPMS sensor transmitted all the time, a sensor would not last very long. Most TPMS sensors will transmit when movement is detected through a simple accelerometer inside. If the wheel stops moving, the sensor will stop broadcasting after a programmed amount of time. But once it is triggered, the sensor transmits on a predetermined interval set by the manufacturer. A sensor will immediately send a signal if it detects a sudden loss in pressure.” https://www.underhoodservice.com/tpms-radio-frequency-theory-and-operation/ Mine has screw on sensors, and when getting ready to leave in the morning I “wake up” each one with a couple of raps from my finger so they transmit today’s value, not the one from when I arrived, in case one of the tires picked up a nail and was quietly deflating overnight. I would much prefer to see that warning or low pressure reading in the campground than a couple of miles down a busy highway… and this is a great reason to NOT choose a type that installs inside the tire. You can’t wake those up except by driving away. John Davies Spokane WA

Honestly, you cannot have enough pressure, meaning load carrying capacity in a second axle/tire to cover the GTWR load upon tire failure (unless you want 80 PSI, the reason why legal depts of RV manufactures suggest this crazy number on your trailer sticker). Either you have muscle memory from 30-40 years or more driving old trucks and towing dozens of cargo and flatbed trailers, or you need to rely on a TPMS (check it often). Yes, redundancy is one of the key factors in mitigating risk. For this reason, the idea of an Elite I (a single axle trailer) is not for me. Having owned horse trailers, farm stock trailers, car haulers, cargo and flatbed trailers, certainly a dozen trailers over a lifetime, and by my choice they are ALL dual-axle trailers. I've had blowouts on desert roads at 70 MPH. The tire tread rips the fender off a car-hauler. I realize it in milliseconds and (btw don't hit the brakes) coast nicely to the shoulder. Run you tire pressure per the load charts and add 5 PSI for a safety of margin. Additional PSI will cause your belongings to suffer, cause your leaf springs to failure (see the threads here) and just more bad stuff! Trust me (and many others here with considerable lifetime experience).

Nice. I have some Mopeka's coming tomorrow as well for the propane tanks. They also play nice with the Victron system, excited to have most everything going through the Victron VRM. Always switching between apps to monitor things. Still have a separate app for TPMS, LevelMate Pro, EasyTouch RV thermostat, and my Grilla Grill. Ha! A lot of batteries to change but no more gateways to deal with or use up energy. Do you find the Mopeka propane sensors accurate?

I started this as a PM to GeronimoJohn and it got so wordy, I decided to post it here. I researched these systems a long time and decided on the Tire Traker. They have stellar customer service and are sometimes at (really) big RV shows and places like Quartzite. The sensor batteries are to be replaced annually, but may last longer - they use cheap button cells. I bought a repeater in case the distance was too far but have NOT needed it. I suggest that you buy the four sensor set, an extra sensor for the spare tire, and the maintenance package. The only thing I did not like was that the trim on the perimeter of the display is bright and it reflected sunlight in the windshield. I painted the upper part on mine flat black. Some electrical tape would also work. The display is rechargeable and runs up to a month, and in sleep mode it wakes up when there is a signal from the wheel sensors. They too wake up when moving, to save the batteries. I try to remember to shut my display off every evening. The mount is a suction cup and very nice. There is no case for the display; I use a soft cloth drawstring bag from a set of sport goggles for storage. The system shows individual tire pressures and temperatures. There are preset alarm levels for both. If you get a slow leak, the alarm will come on at a reduced level to let you know that you need to pull over. By watching the display you can tell if it is slow or a big one. If it is a big leak the alarm is more intense. The sensor on the spare tire lets you know that it has not gone flat, since it is a small PITA to check. If one of the main sensors fails, you can swap the spare onto that wheel until you can get a replacement. Or just order an extra sensor now... The temperature display is useful since it shows the temps increasing as the tires heat up during towing, which is completely NORMAL, and if there is one that is abnormally warm, you can stop and see if there is a brake or bearing issue on the hub. NOTE: because the sensors are spinning in ambient air on the end of the valve stems, I doubt that the displayed temps are especially accurate. A sensor inside the wheel would be a much more reliable and accurate system. I honestly don't see how the external sensors could read inside temps, but they do to a certain degree (pun intended). I don't think that the display dims, I have never used it at night. I suspect you would want to take it off the windshield and just set it in a low cupholder. It would still alarm if needed. If somebody knows if the lighting dims, please comment. The system gets very good reviews, you can get from Amazon, but I ordered direct from Tire Traker. Setup: Charge the display several hours. After first checking and adjusting your COLD tire pressures (I use 60 psi), it will take you about ten minutes to set it up, there are many videos showing how. You have to set the alarm threshold (enter the cold tire pressure), install batteries into sensors and put them on the wheels one at a time. As each one "wakes up" it will show up on the display and you can adjust its position of the vehicle diagram, for example "left rear" on the trailer drawing. Position of the display: I mount mine at the lower left corner of the windshield. It is easy to see, but neither in my direct line of sight, nor close to my Garmin gps. Aftermarket devices like a gps that use radio signals may possibly cause interference. My RV 660 is mounted along the center of the windshield and I have noted no interference when using my Garmin remote (trailer backup) camera. If you have trouble with the TT-500 signal, you may need to mount their booster inside the trailer connected to an always-on power source. If you have the factory backup camera, the area behind the switch would be a great location, and you can use the switch to power on the booster when you switch on the camera. https://www.tiretraker.com/proddetail.php?prod=TT500-4 https://www.tiretraker.com/proddetail.php?prod=TT50 https://www.tiretraker.com/proddetail.php?prod=TT-MAINT Installation video: If you are driving an older tow vehicle without its own TPMS, you can order extra sensors and use the Tire Traker to monitor those tires also. This system is versatile and mine has been reliable for a year. It gives great peace of mind when towing, especially in inclement weather and in remote areas, which is priceless. Anything you can do to reduce your anxiety level while towing is a good thing. HIGHLY recommended! I towed trailers for 45 years without TPMS, and I am very glad I invested in this. John Davies Spokane WA

I had a unique opportunity on a recent trip we took while towing our Ollie down to the Chesapeake Bay for a little vacation. Actually observed a trailer tire failure in real time. Driving in moderately heavy traffic on an interstate at 60-65 mph, we were a bit behind a pickup truck towing an SOB dual axle travel trailer. It was a section of the interstate with 3 lanes in each direction. I was in the far right lane as usual, and the pickup truck/TT ahead of us were in the center lane. My wife and I both noticed that the forward tire on passenger side of the trailer ahead of us was low and the sidewall of the tire was oscillating side to side noticeably. Our position to the rear and right of the other trailer gave us a great viewpoint. The oscillations were getting worse, but the pickup truck driver was showing no indication he noticed anything at all as he happily maintained his speed. I tried to speed up an little to get alongside to try to honk/wave to warn him, but traffic opened up a bit at that point and he actually sped up significantly, so I fell pretty far behind. At this point, small chunks of rubber were now being thrown off the tire, but the driver continued on at speed. I gave up on my attempt to get alongside to warn him since I didn't feel safe getting closer, and actually backed off a bit further. Within another 30 seconds larger chunks of tire started coming off, followed by pieces of aluminum siding from the trailer side wall around the wheel well as the entire tread started coming off the tire and whipping around in the wheel well. So I slowed down even more to get a very safe distance behind from the impending disaster. Incredibly, the driver was still maintaining his speed! Probably doing 70mph and in the middle lane of three lanes of traffic! The full tire tread soon came off, fortunately I was far enough behind to avoid it easily along with all the other debris laying in the road at this point. By now other drivers closer to him in traffic were honking & waving at him, and he probably felt some drag or vibration at this point, and he finally figured out something was wrong, but because he was in the middle lane of the three lanes, and with the traffic, it took him quite a bit of distance to finally get over to the far right lane and he exited at an off ramp and pulled off on the shoulder there. By that point the tire was completely gone, but fortunately since it was a dual axle trailer, the driver never lost control. Some lessons learned, and/or reinforced. A very strong reminder of the need for a good TPMS system (I've had one since day one with our Ollie Elite II). A great demonstration of the advantage of a dual axle trailer for stability. And also a reminder that keeping to a reasonable speed and staying in the right hand lane most of the time are good practice.

We've never owned a truck or a trailer. My wife and I are retiring in 6 months and diving in with all 4 feet. Tell me what we don't know please. We looked at lots of trailers and are finally pulling the trigger on the LEII. I've read a bunch of threads on here over the last year. Very helpful. But if you can point me to some that have already discussed this sort of thing, I'd appreciate that, too. We prefer simple: Everything we need, but nothing we don't. So.... LEII - starting the ordering process today 🙂. Scheduling factory tour soon. Standard except as follows: Twin Bed Floor Plan Two Upgraded Foam Mattresses Hypervent for Twin Bed Floor Plan Front & Rear Propane Quick Connects Backup Camera with 4.3” display Aluminum Storage Basket Inside Basement Access Door Auto Drain (push button drain valve) - What is this? Door lock (do I need the electric one?) TV - bought yesterday 🙂 Ram 1500 Laramie, 5.7L 8 cyl hemi, 4wd, max tow, air shocks, class iv hitch, 9 pin connector, rear video Approx 1,700 load capacity Locking hard tonneau cover, bed liner Miscellaneous side purchases (yet to be made) Generator that runs on propane - to be carried in Ollie's storage basket Surge protector (no idea what sort of electrical equipment I need for generator or shore power) TPMS for trailer Screen house carpet for under awning hoses, leveling blocks, antitheft? tools? Storage - We intend to use these toys a lot. Maybe even 6 months a year. But, inevitably, they will get placed in storage when not in use. We live in a FL subdivision, with no garage space for this size stuff. So, I thinking I buy a cover for both.

New tires after 6 years with the Michelins. They performed well just had some very small cracks starting to form on the side wall. Changed the TPMS batteries while I was at it.

Hey, John; The D52's use a massive "bearing pack" which is a sealed unit touted to be "good" for 100k miles. We'll see, for sure. Even though they're called "Nev-R-Lubes", owners still need to inspect the sealed bearing packs at 12k-mile/12-month intervals (whichever occurs first). With our current OTT camping schedule for the rest of this year, we'll likely be digging into the new 52's in NOV prior to our "winter mode." We'll report the details of the process afterwards for those interested. JFTR: We've chosen to run the Cooper Discoverers at 45psi cold. The TPMS shows a consistent warm-up (obviously not including the spare) to 52 - 53psi per tire after about 20 minutes of towing. This pressure seems to be our "sweet spot" for the loads we've been carrying for summer travel. We also replaced the curtain clips with new ones before the axle swap because we were discovering random curtains falling down after normal towing conditions. We haven't had one fall down since replacing the clips, FYI. @Patriot - good call posting the Dexter inspection procedure, thanks brother! Cheers!

In order to clarify this statement - Most (if not all) TPMS systems will alert you to "issues" with a tire - such as sudden loss of pressure, or pressures or temperatures that are outside of a predetermined range that you set. And, the TPMS system that integrates with the Ford system and screen will do this too as I assume that the other truck makers do. However, I've found an unexpected plus to having the stand alone monitor is that I'll watch it keeping an eye on the relative differences between tire temp and tire pressure under varying road and climate conditions. All things being equal - tires running on a concrete road will have a lower temperature and pressure than those running on a black asphalt road on a sunny day. smooth road. Generally, the same statement is true for a rough surfaced road versus a smooth road. So, how does one decide on what tire pressure is correct for their particular trailer? In the pages of this Forum there have been many posts that flat out state that one should NEVER have tire pressures under "X" or above "Y". These statements may or may not be correct for the particular trailer the poster is referring to under the conditions that they normally drive - or even those conditions that may be encountered from time to time. Trailer weight, the roads that are normally driven or even specifically driven, the speeds at which they drive, the weather, etc., etc. all influence the decision as what tire pressures are appropriate for any given situation. Indeed, many of these posters will "admit" to "airing down" for those times when they travel on rough (dirt) roads. This is done for basically two reasons: 1 - for better traction; 2 - softer ride. Interestingly, this is one of the same problems that we are all trying to solve when deciding what our "normal" or "regular" tire pressure will be. We don't want to have such a high pressure in the tires such that they are like (to borrow an oft used statement) rocks. Nor do we want a tire with such low tire pressure as to cause it to heat up too much in "normal" driving. By keeping an eye on my tire pressures while also seeing the tire's temperature I can make a rough judgement as to when or why a tire is reacting to any particular situation. For instance (for my Ollie loaded for a "normal" camping trip), I will set my tire pressures at 60psi. But, the weather changes and/or one of the main roads I'm traveling has been repaved from concrete to fresh black asphalt and I note that my tires are increasing more than about 1 psi for every 10 degrees increase in air temp. Depending on how long or how severe this situation might continue, I might decide to add 3 or 4 psi. This is a bit counter intuitive but note that a harder tire (more psi) will have less rolling resistance and therefore run cooler than a softer tire. Another way of thinking about this is that a softer tire (less psi) will have more surface of the tire on the road and will "squirm" or "flex" more thus causing more friction and thus more heat. Over time I have been able to predict (generally speaking) what tire pressures are about right for me and my Ollie. But, just because I chose to run my tires at a certain pressure does not mean that this is the correct pressure for your Ollie in any given situation. We all want as soft a ride as possible while at the same time we want good traction, high tire mileage and most of all safety. By having the information provided by a TPMS we not only increase our immediate safety but we also obtain information from which we can make informed decisions as to satisfying some of the other conditions present when operating in a constantly changing environment. Bill