Connecting a Solar Suitcase

[FLYnGATOR]

A couple of questions that I couldn’t find an answer via the search topics.

1. Can I connect solar panels, which have an integrated 20 amp charge controller, directly to the batteries via the supplied alligator clips?

2. Is there a maximum wattage that can be added to my 400W onboard solar via an external port?

 

Thanks ! getting ready to leave on an extended western trip. I thought I’d pick up a solar suitcase just in case, as much of our time will be boondocking.

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SeaDawg]

@FLYnGATOR, looks like you may have accidentally locked the topic, so no replies. I unlocked it for you.

[rich.dev]

Ok more experienced people will chip in but I’ll try and answer some of your questions……

5 hours ago, FLYnGATOR said:

Can I connect solar panels, which have an integrated 20 amp charge controller

Yes

5 hours ago, FLYnGATOR said:

directly to the batteries via the supplied alligator clips?

Yes you can, but if you have the solar package you have the Zamp solar port on the street side, your solar suitcase “should” have a SAE connector but with the Zamp port you will need a polarity reversing adaptor. 

 

5 hours ago, FLYnGATOR said:

2. Is there a maximum wattage that can be added to my 400W onboard solar via an external port?

The wire for the Zamp port is a 10ga wire capable of 30a. OTT use a 20A fuse, you can probably go with 2 x 200W external solar suitcases, but with onboard charge controllers there could be voltage drop based on wire size and length of wire. Here’s a nice video explaining voltage drop based on charge controller location relative to the batteries. 
 

 

 

[FLYnGATOR]

I do not have the Zamp Solar Port.

I ordered from the 2024 build sheet in October 2023. OTT had changed the Zamp solar port being included with the lithium platinum solar package, to a dealer installed option. Didn’t catch it until too late.

After watching the video, I still have a question. Can I connect the solar panels via the alligator clip directly to the batteries without an integrated charge controller, utilizing the onboard charge controller? Or is the onboard charge controller only able to be utilized through the zamp solar port?

[mossemi]

16 minutes ago, FLYnGATOR said:

I still have a question. Can I connect the solar panels via the alligator clip directly to the batteries without an integrated charge controller, utilizing the onboard charge controller? Or is the onboard charge controller only able to be utilized through the zamp solar port?

You can use the solar panel solar charge controller, cable and alligator clips that came with your suitcase solar panels.  The suitcase solar panel manual probably has a connection procedure to follow, be sure to verify.  You will have to look at the solar charge controller display on the suitcase panels to verify that it is working.

FYI, the Zamp port is a simple 2 wire SAE waterproof port.  When installed on the side of the Ollie, the wires go directly to the battery positive and negative, with a fuse on the positive wire.  The alligator clips do exactly the same thing.  It’s is just like jumping your car battery with the positive connection first and then the negative connection.  The battery connections usually happen before the solar panel connections.

Mossey

[FLYnGATOR]

Awesome! Thanks!

I don’t know if it’ll will arrive in time to wire external solar port

 

Mark

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, FLYnGATOR said:

I don’t know if it’ll will arrive in time to wire external solar port

It will be a pain to open the battery door daily and don’t leave the trailer that way with expensive LiFePO4 batteries exposed! Common RV theft is batteries and LP tanks.

If you know the parts you need, you could order on Amazon today and get before the weekend.

You’d have to be comfortable drilling a small entry hole in your Oliver. Since you’re purchasing a suitcase with integrated SC, all you need to do is run the two wires to the pos and neg buses built into your Oliver. A couple of pics and we could advise. Just a thought.

What model suitcase solar did you buy? 

[rideandfly]

Mark,

Agree with John, would not want to leave the battery door open with the Lithium batteries exposed.

Did Oliver install a solar port? Would like to see photos, too!

[MAX Burner]

@FLYnGATOR - FYI:  Just like Mossey @mossemi noted above, the "Zamp" SAE (through the battery hatch) connector is a piece of cake to install.  There's several owners that have integrated this solar connector in various locations around (usually) the street side of the OTT to better access the battery compartment.  IMO, the battery compartment hatch is the most effective location.  It will likely take you longer to assemble all the tools and parts on your workbench necessary to complete the job than actually installing the SAE connector.  HA!  

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress....  (OBTW:  we like pix!)

Cheers!

[mossemi]

18 hours ago, FLYnGATOR said:

I don’t know if it’ll will arrive in time to wire external solar port

Just a word of caution about the Zamp Solar Port, it is a known fact that the Zamp 2 wire connectors are wired in reverse so be sure to verify to positive wire with test equipment.  Do not trust the wire color.  There are gender benders available to place inline between to solar panel and the Zamp port.

Mossey

[rideandfly]

47 minutes ago, mossemi said:

Just a word of caution about the Zamp Solar Port, it is a known fact that the Zamp 2 wire connectors are wired in reverse so be sure to verify to positive wire with test equipment.  Do not trust the wire color.  There are gender benders available to place inline between to solar panel and the Zamp port.

Mossey

 

Does Zamp reverse polarity because of positive ground solar charging systems? I'm currently using a Renogy 20A negative ground Solar Controller with Renogy suitcase panel, but have seen Renogy positive ground solar controllers, too.

Thanks,

Edit, Found the answer on Zamp's website, question 4:

https://www.zampsolar.com/pages/faq

 

Edited 10 hours ago by rideandfly

[jd1923]

6 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

the "Zamp" SAE (through the battery hatch) connector is a piece of cake to install.

I've given this installation some thought, since it is on my radar to add one soon, now that I've upgraded to 600AH LiFePO4 with only 340W rooftop solar.

@FLYnGATOR If you need time to do this right, maybe the alligator clips will work for this trip. You could connect them in a way sneaking the end connector outside the door, allowing the door to be locked for your trip.

For the permanent installation, you could go "through the battery hatch." However, this way the wires would need length to open/close the door and would forever be in the way every time you open the hatch. Instead, you could drill into the body below the battery bay (this my plan), either left or right of the battery bay, depending on the nearest location to your internal OTT installed buses, in the basement opening under the streetside bed or rear dinette hatch (see pictures). Your much newer hull will look somewhat different, but you will have OTT OEM positive and negative buses to wire the red/black. The first picture shows the positive B+ bus (6 AWG red wires in and note the three yellow fuses that power the stabilizer jacks). Connect the red wire of the Zamp connector here.

The wires from the Zamp connector do NOT have to be wired directly to the batteries! I would crimp a large eyelet and (on mine) piggyback mount it to the large bolt center of picture, left of the breaker. The cable coming in from the right comes from the batteries, goes through the breaker to the B+ bus. The cable leaving the left side powers the 12VDC fuse panel.

This is an excellent mount, no extra wires in the battery bay and no weather on your connections. For the black wire, connect it to the B- bus. In our hull OTT uses all yellow-colored cables. The second picture show this bus. Note the large 6 AWG yellow cable coming from the left. This comes from my main battery connection. You can mount the black wire anywhere on this bus, but on mine, I would pick the empty slot right at this large cable for least resistance.

In our hull the positive B+ bus is under the streetside bed. So, I will find a good entry point behind and below the battery bay. When I decide on location, I will drill an 1/8" hole from the inside and then go outside and drill the larger hole required. This allows for best positioning. Our B- terminal is under the rear dinette seat, so I will add length to that wire for sure. Use 10 AWG wire for any extensions, color doesn't really matter as long as you keep +/- polarity correct. You could even switch the polarity it you do not want to use the Zamp/SAE reversing connector, but they do that so when unplugged it's more difficult to touch the B+. I might switch mine, to go without, since the exterior terminal has a protection cap anyway (warning! only do this if you have some electrical background).

For the exterior install of the Zamp terminal, I suggest drilling ONLY ONE main hole for the wires to pass through alone. I would NOT drill any of the 4 1/8" mounting holes for the screws which have a tendency to crack from use, being so close to the main hole, and from age. Use 3M VHB 4950 tape instead. Cut it into shape to cover the complete mounting flange. Use rubbing alcohol (90% pure preferred) on all matting surfaces.

Some owners would not like the look of the 4 screw holes without little shiny chromed screws showing. Instead, you would see 1/8" white tape behind the openings. I suggest after installation, use a fine tip black Sharpy on the tape showing after installation so they better blend in. The cheap screws will cause rust over time. You could replace the screws with SS screws, but the cracking issues would still be present.

IMHO, it's just a cleaner installation, and I promise the 3M VHB is stronger than screw mounted. It also creates a tight water seal, given the tape is properly applied around the full circumference.

I plan to add a suitcase WITHOUT built-in solar controllers and run the Zamp port to a main internal SC, managing the suitcase AND the roof-mounted panels together. This will likely require me to upgrade the current 25A SC to a Victron 50A SC, but as you can learn from the movie, it has advantages. Another thought I had was to remove the RV-park cable TV port by the streetside rear bumper, using that hole instead of drilling another. We never use this connection, and the rear location makes very good sense in ease of access to the sun in 3 directions with shorter cables.

I hope I gave you and other Forum Members a lot to think about in working this upgrade! Thanks to @rich.dev! The move he supplied above was very helpful in my thinking this through completely. The guy on the movie sure is a geek, though he demonstrates 8 configuration options nicely. 😂

Edited 5 hours ago by jd1923
forgot the pics!