True Induction Stove Top will not turn on

[Lamar]

We took possession of our new 2026 Legacy I in about April.  Spent most of the time learning the systems and getting ready for our trip to Utah where we plan to do mostly Boondocking.  We did one trial run overnight close to home to get the feel for things but we were tied into shore power.  We were planning on a second unhooked but storms rolled and we had to leave.  Tonight is night one on the 2 week long trip and we are boondocking.  The True Induction Stove top will not turn on.  It did turn on when we were hooked to shore power when we did the trial run.  I am using a lodge frying pan, making sure we have the right material on the stove top.  But there are no lights coming on the cooktop.  I checked the breaker and it appears ok (knowing they can go bad and you can’t tell until you replace them).  The inverter seems to be working as the microwave/convection oven works.  The batteries appear to be above 90%.  It’s gonna be a long 2 weeks without a stovetop.

I don’t know if this is related but two 12 v receptacles on the street side do not appear to be working either.  I’ve checked fuses but they seem to be fine.

Any insight would be appreciated.  I’ll also put a ticket in, but I’m sure Oliver is closed until at least Tuesday because of Memorial Day.

Lamar

Hull #1687

 

Also, for Veterans, their families, and those who lost someone they cared for in the military…I trust this Memorial Day, Remembrance Day, or Decoration Day will be meaningful to you.

[Snackchaser]

Lamar, sad to hear of your troubles!

I have no idea how those stoves are wired, but they should be GFIC protected (Ground fault interrupter circuit). Those can trip for numbers of reasons.   It could have its own GFIC receptacle under the cabinet somewhere, or it could be fed from an another GFIC receptacle.   I'd check all the AC receptacles to see if they are GFIC and if they are tripped.  Don't forget the one above the kitchen counter and the outdoor plug.  If you find one tripped that won't reset, let us know for further investigation. 

Also check the AC wiring diagram in your manual, it should show whether the stove circuit is GFIC protected, and give clues where to look.  

The stove wouldn't be related to the 12v outlets.  If you're talking about the USB outlets, they might have a tiny pushbutton switch on the front of them.  The cigarette lighter type of 12v outlets are notorious for having the wire terminal pop off the back, but unlikely for that to happen to both of them. If the fuse is okay, then I'd take a close look at whatever you're testing them with.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

Geoff

Edited May 25 by Snackchaser

[Lamar]

Snack Chaser, thanks for the response.  I found the buttons on the USB outlets.  Didn’t know they were there and they all work.  Good to know.  

All of the outlets that I can find work.  There is one GFCI that I found near the floor in the forward dinette that was tripped.  But after resetting it the induction stove still is not working.  The one outlet outside is not GFCI.

I’m going to hook into shore power again to see if by doing that the stove will turn on.  I have both a generator and a 30 amp connector nearby for this morning yet.

Lamar

[Lamar]

Ok, I started my generator and now my True Induction Stove Top works.  Am I missing something? 

 

 

[topgun2]

29 minutes ago, Lamar said:

The one outlet outside is not GFCI.

While the outlet itself may not be GFCI, it almost certainly is on a circuit that is GCFI controlled (i.e. is a slave off a GCFI).  I'd suggest that you keep checking for another "tripped" GCFI.

Bill 

[Steph and Dud B]

Did you have your inverter turned on? If you're on batteries with no shore power you need the inverter on to create 120VAC electricity for the cooktop.

[Steve and MA]

1 hour ago, Lamar said:

The True Induction Stove top will not turn on.  It did turn on when we were hooked to shore power when we did the trial run... The inverter seems to be working as the microwave/convection oven works... I started my generator and now my True Induction Stove Top works.

This suggests the inverter doesn't supply power to the induction cooktop. If that's the case, I have no idea why Oliver would wire wire it that way.  I know that in older models, the Xantrex 2000 watt inverter did not power the air conditioner, but not powering an induction cooktop by design doesn't make much sense.

Steve

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, Lamar said:

All of the outlets that I can find work.  There is one GFCI that I found near the floor in the forward dinette that was tripped.  But after resetting it the induction stove still is not working.  The one outlet outside is not GFCI.

I’m going to hook into shore power again to see if by doing that the stove will turn on.  I have both a generator and a 30 amp connector nearby for this morning yet.

Lamar, the GFCI under the dinette should power ALL your AC outlets in line. Plug something into the outdoor outlet (or the one above the kitchen sink) and trip the GCFI under the dinette. The other AC outlets should then ALL be OFF. @topgun2 Bill suggested this in his comment. However this is NOT your main issue re your induction cooktop.

If the induction cooktop is on a GFCI circuit it should be wired to an independent GCFI (not that outlet under the dinette). And if your induction cooktop works on Shore Power, then GFCI is not your issue either.

I see you have a Legacy I. What inverter and battery setup do you have? 

I hate to think that what @Steve and MA wrote is correct in that OTT did not wire your induction cooktop to your inverter circuit. If you have the Xantrex 3000, all 120VAC circuits should be wired to it, but not so with a lesser 2K inverter. Wow, if this is the case, OTT should have installed an LP cooktop instead!

You wrote that your microwave works on inverter. Given all this is true, you need to get this corrected for the long-term. (OTT wired several things in very strange ways in our hull, so I have rewired everything!) Not the right time while boondocking, but I have a short-term on-the-road fix for you! 😎

First be OFF shore power and turn your inverter OFF. This ensures there is no 120VAC in your hull, so you can safely rewire the AC power panel. You can do a quick fix in your breaker box! Do the following at you own risk (I would do it)!

Remove the breaker box cover and remove the breaker labeled for your inverter. Loosen the front screw and pull the black wire free (the hot). Do the same for the microwave breaker. Replace the hot for the induction cooktop into the breaker for your microwave. Now you have induction cooking on inverter but your microwave will not be powered.

You could wire both hots to the microwave breaker, if you want to use both on inverter. However if you do so, it would not be wired "to code" and you'll only want to use only ONE appliance at a time. However, if you turned both ON at the same time, the breaker would merely trip, no big deal.

If it was me and I found it to be TRUE that OTT did NOT wire the induction cooktop to the inverter circuit 😒, I would get this done in 10 minutes just in time for breakfast! 🤣 

Edited May 25 by jd1923

[Steph and Dud B]

13 hours ago, Lamar said:

The inverter seems to be working as the microwave/convection oven works.  

Sorry, missed that. 

This is an odd problem, to be sure. Could the cooktop be tripping overcurrent protection on the inverter? Do any error codes appear on the Xantrex display? Does the cooktop have varying power levels? Will it work on a low setting?

[jd1923]

10 minutes ago, Steph and Dud B said:

This is an odd problem, to be sure. Could the cooktop be tripping overcurrent protection on the inverter? Do any error codes appear on the Xantrex display? Does the cooktop have varying power levels? Will it work on a low setting?

We do not know yet...
- What inverter/battery setup is installed in this LEI?
- Will it still work on Shore Power? (if so, then not a CGFI issue)
- Error codes? If so, then the usual Xantrex settings issue, but @Lamar made no mention of a failed startup, just no power.
- Is the induction cooktop wired to the inverter circuit? To be or not to be!

[Steve and MA]

Just looked at the 2026 LE1 sales info. The only factory inverter option is the 2000 Watt Pro series.  Also looking at the 2026 LE1 owner's manual, it shows the following for inverter equipped units:

CIR  #3 AIR CONDITIONER 15 AMP

CIR  #2 WATER HEATER 20 AMP

CIR  #1 INVERTER 25 AMP

MAIN — 30 AMP

SUB-MAIN INVERTER SUB-PANEL 25 AMP

CIR  #4 RECEPTACLES 15 AMP

CIR  #5 MICROWAVE RECEPTACLE 15 AMP

Circuits #4 and #5 are on the inverter sub-panel side of the breaker box. This is just a guess, but could it be that the Cir #4 receptacles and Cir #3 air conditioner are reversed?  It would be easy to test.  Does the air conditioner have power when the inverter is your 120 vac source? If you try this, make sure no other circuits are in use. 

[jd1923]

16 hours ago, Lamar said:

there are no lights coming on the cooktop.  I checked the breaker and it appears ok

I assumed when Lamar wrote this in his original post that there was a separate breaker for the induction cooktop. There truly should be, but not according to the manual that @Steve and MA found.

In our hull, OTT wired the microwave to the breaker marked “Outlets.” They wired two separate hots to the breaker (outlets GFCI and microwave on separate 12/2 Romex runs). Maybe they did something similar here. I corrected our situation by connecting the microwave to a free breaker when I disabled the OEM converter for the Victron inverter/charger. The fix I suggested above just got more complicated! I would still rewire the main panel so that induction cooking is possible off-grid! 

@Lamar last logged in 9 hours ago. Hard to say, but the first thing he should do when connected to shore power is to run the cooktop and trip each breaker to know where in the world OTT wired their True Induction cooktop!

[Snackchaser]

In looking at the circuit description that @Steve and MA provided, it seems that there are two separate feeds.  The 30 amp main feeds circuits 1 through 3 which include the water heater, AC and Inverter.  These would appear to be circuits that run only on shore power.  The water heater (20 amps) must be a propane/AC unit and it makes sense that this would not be energized from the inverter, likely not the AC either.

Then there is the  "SUB-MAIN INVERTER SUB-PANEL 25 AMP."  You could infer that this 25 amp feeds loads that run from the inverter (circuit 4 receptacles and circuit 5 microwave).  

This is not the correct circuit description for your trailer because stove top load is not listed.  However, it does provide clues for what could be going on in your trailer.   If the inverter does not support the AC, then it probably doesn't support a high amp induction cooktop either. 

That would be crazy that a stove cannot be used while boondocking!

There are some Xantrex models that have built in circuit breakers for split feeds like this.  So there could be the AC sub panel under the dinette feeding AC inverter circuits, and shore power breakers built into the inverter for the water heater, and stove-top.  Just an idea to look at, I hope that's not the case though.

Geoff

 

 

.  

[Steph and Dud B]

2 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

Then there is the  "SUB-MAIN INVERTER SUB-PANEL 25 AMP."  You could infer that this 25 amp feeds loads that run from the inverter (circuit 4 receptacles and circuit 5 microwave).  

This is not the correct circuit description for your trailer because stove top load is not listed.  

 

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

In our hull, OTT wired the microwave to the breaker marked “Outlets.”

Could it be that Oliver did the same thing with the cooktop? Is it simply plugged into a hidden outlet like the microwave and fridge is on our unit and that outlet is on Circuit 4? 

If the cooktop is on the 2000 watt inverter it could easily overload it. Most small induction burners max out around 1800 watts/15 amps. At full power that only leaves 200 watts/1.7 amps for anything else.

If it's NOT on the inverter, that sucks, too.

[Lamar]

Thanks for all the replies.  Sorry I haven’t updated sooner.  We have been boondocking for several days.  I have been in communication with support at Oliver.  At first they didn’t understand why it wasn’t working.  As they investigated they reported that it appears that the stovetop does pull 1800 w and overloads the 2000 w inverter.  The only other major draw is the refrigerator.  Even when I turn that off, the stovetop does not come on.  I stopped at a Bass Pro the first day to pick up a small 2 burner propane stove so we could at least have coffee in the morning.  Not what I was planning when camping.

If I had known I would have asked for the propane stove instead of the induction stove.  We have the Platinum pkg and I did ask sales at the dealer if people liked the induction stove and if I could use it boondocking.  Answer was that it works.  I noticed that the induction cooktop comes standard on the Legacy 2026. 

This isn’t working for us as designed.  I have asked for this to be resolved…proper inverter set up or a propane stove retro fit.  If you do much camping at Harvest Hosts, BLM, National Forrest, National Parks, etc. w/o hookups, it is a problem unless you run a generator.  When we return from our travels we will see where Oliver lands on this.  They are considering possible “upgrades” to our camper.  I wouldn't see a resolution as upgrades, but will find out.

When hooked up to shore power, the cooktop works great.  But so far for us, most of our trip, was making coffee or cooking outside on a portable propane  stove.

[Mike and Carol]

56 minutes ago, Lamar said:

If I had known I would have asked for the propane stove instead of the induction stove.  We have the Platinum pkg and I did ask sales at the dealer if people liked the induction stove and if I could use it boondocking.

The propane cook top has been very reliable and works well for us.

[rideandfly]

3 hours ago, Lamar said:

  When we return from our travels we will see where Oliver lands on this.  They are considering possible “upgrades” to our camper.  I wouldn't see a resolution as upgrades, but will find out.

I'm sure Oliver will resolve this cook-top issue, under warranty.

We're like Mike & Carol, our propane cook-top has been very reliable. We use a portable 120V induction cook-top, too.

 

 

Edited yesterday at 04:40 PM by rideandfly

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Lamar said:

The only other major draw is the refrigerator.  Even when I turn that off, the stovetop does not come on.

Not powering up is NOT the same thing as it taking too many watts overloading an inverter! Given it "does not come on" (at all), it's simply not wired to a circuit supplied by the inverter. If an appliance wired to the inverter pulls too much amperage, your inverter will start making noise and will shut down when overloaded, but it certainly will "come on."

What were they thinking at OTT! And BTW, a 2000W inverter by definition will run an 1800W appliance! Given the True Induction cooktop is rated at 1800W, and it's a 2-burner cooktop, then each burner is rated at 900W. If OTT had wired the cooktop properly, you could certainly heat up water for coffee on one (1) burner and run the fridge at the same time! You will be well under 2000W! 🤣

Get OTT to wire this properly! I would just DIY, as I suggested in an earlier post, but you have to be concerned of warranty issues.

We have the LP cooktop of course, but like Bill mentioned also have an induction cooktop that we plug in indoors or out. We also do not use our LP stove stove to heat coffee water (unless battery SOC is LOW). We love these products! 😎 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSNTSVR/?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Aigostar-Eve-Electric-Cordless-Boiling/dp/B07D3R7RZT/

https://www.amazon.com/Melitta-Pour-Over-Coffee-Stainless-Filters/dp/B0CSQLHFW9/

[topgun2]

4 hours ago, Lamar said:

 When we return from our travels we will see where Oliver lands on this.  They are considering possible “upgrades” to our camper.  I wouldn't see a resolution as upgrades, but will find out.

Keep working with the folks at Oliver.  It sounds like they understand where you are coming from and, in my experience, they will do everything that they can to get you to where you want to be.  If for any reason this situation doesn't seem to be progressing towards your desired end, I would not hesitate to get Jason Essary involved.  And, if that doesn't work then I'd write a note to Scott Oliver telling him (respectfully) the situation and request his help in getting your Ollie the way you want it.

Be sure to let us know how this situation is resolved for you.

Bill

[DanielBoondock]

Not sure of the exact situation from the information given, but here’s some commentary

Using the induction on battery

The induction will only pull full 1.8kW when both burners are on full power. The smaller one is limited to 8/10 vs 10/10 of the bigger to meet this spec. With my 3k inverter and the max lithium I can only use both at full power by themselves, no microwave or other high power devices typically at the same time because tripping the 3k is easily possible. 

But you have a 2k, the reason you can’t get full use out of the 2k is twofold I believe. One is code (for buildings) limits you to I think 80% of full spec for wiring. It depends on various factors like if it’s in conduit or whatnot. But the idea is there’s a difference between continuous high draw and momentary. EV’s for example, if say drawing 32A Level II charging at home overnight, will actually draw close to 32A for hours. Household wiring and sockets aren’t meant for that and will usually overheat, so they have different specifications. But maybe the wiring is rated for full use, as I do get full power on both while on shore. 

Two, inverters never seem to give the full rated spec, I think they leave margin for spikes. Again 80% is typical from my experience. Seems like if I get close to 3k it’ll freak. Finally there’s the phantom steady state draw from the rest of the camper, so the inverter needs margin for that. All told, an induction cooktop is much like an EV in that when it wants 1.8kW it will draw a full 1.8k until changed. That’s a high load/high stress situation for a camper. 

So it’s not surprising that a 2k inverter may not support both burners on full. I rarely to never use both mine on full with my 3k, it’s too easy to trip! I use the main burner on full, and if I need to simultaneously use the second one for say boiling some water, I just do it at a lower setting and it takes a little longer. But who cares? Induction is way faster than gas any day of the week so it takes about as long as gas. 

Breaker

The LEII has a 15A dedicated breaker for the stove as you’d expect

Stove top not doing anything

If there’s zero response from the stovetop - pressing on (which uses no power) doesn’t turn it on than this is a problem. Most likely issue is a tripped breaker. Induction is definitely 120V not 12V feed. 

Anyhow the induction is a game changer IMO. No toxic gas danger, no condensation from the propane burning, no fire risk, faster, cleaner and better. But you have to know how to work with it as it’s a very high power device. I don’t think it’s a deficiency that the 2k won’t support full power on both burners, that’s ‘by design’. If I was Oliver I’d just issue a warning to those who get a 2k inverter. And if I had one I wouldn’t worry about it, even at a reduced setting it’s still going to boil water faster than propane. 

Edited 50 minutes ago by DanielBoondock