Upgrading from a Bulldog 2” coupler to 2 5/16 BD coupler

[Patriot]

Oliver Bulldog 2 5/16 coupler upgrade.

I decided to finally pull the trigger and upgrade our Oliver from a 2” 7000# Bulldog coupler to a new Bulldog 2 5/16” 12500 coupler. I also ordered a spare coupler repair kit. These 2 5/16” BD couplers are becoming difficult to locate and purchase with Bulldog filing for bankruptcy protection in Oct of last year😳.

It’s my understanding, that BD is no longer manufacturing and shipping these couplers to RV manufacturers possibly due to bankruptcy proceedings. (open source)  I did attempt to purchase a 2 5/16 BG coupler from Oliver and they no longer have this upgrade in stock and available to purchase and ship. Jerry at Oliver told me they have no idea if or when they will have this coupler in stock again and are seeking alternative options. Will there will be a restructuring with BD? Anyone’s guess. I will be taking the new coupler to a friend’s machine shop to have the holes precisely drilled. 

If you’re on the fence about upgrading to a 2 5/16  12,500 #coupler it might be a good time to search for a vendor that has one on the shelf and ready to ship.

A big thank you to @rideandfly for helping source this coupler! The Vendor I ordered from was Croft Trailer Supply in Kansas City, Mo.  Ended up myself, @rideandfly and @John Dorrer purchased the (3) they had in stock. If it’s an upgrade you’re considering you may not want to wait. 

 

Safe Travels!

Hull#634 XPLOR

 

 

Edited Saturday at 03:07 PM by Patriot

[jd1923]

Good idea. We did ours May 2025 when they were readily available. This upgrade sure provides a reassuring feeling when towing! 😎

[FloraFauna]

39 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

sure provides a reassuring feeling when towing

Couldn't agree more.  JD, I like your lock setup better than my own.  What are you using and have you been happy with them?

[jd1923]

24 minutes ago, FloraFauna said:

Couldn't agree more.  JD, I like your lock setup better than my own.  What are you using and have you been happy with them?

Thanks, Steve. Hey, mine is nothing fancy. I searched for an older thread where several owners had posted more high-end locks and coupler covers but could not locate it today.

I do like this simple Curt coupler release lock, but one hit with a 5-LB hammer and the whole assembly would fly off: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T9N6H06/

The front ball lock I have is something that came with a used trailer I bought, not sure of brand name.

For me something simple and less expensive is a basic deterrent. I believe unless your trailer is attached to the TV it's easy prey to steal. It can be towed away regardless of our efforts! Anybody can chain any trailer to the rear of a pickup, regardless of what is used to lock the coupler.

Some buy expensive locks. Some have added an internal switch to prevent the jacks from being lowered (a really bad idea). This would cause additional damage because the thief would prefer to lift the jacks, but if you prevent that, they'll just drag 'er down the street anyway, damaging the jack(s) at a minimum and likely body or frame damage too.

I used to rent garages in Cicero IL which is not exactly a safe neighborhood! Did all I could to keep my old cars and bikes safe. When I stored a trailer long-term, I would chain and padlock the two wheels together through the holes in the steel rims. If towed away the wheels on one side would lockup/burn rubber which would look rather odd while being towed on a slant down the road. I would make the chain/padlock obvious to a prospective thief as an initial deterrent.

Lots of different opinions on this topic🤣!

[FloraFauna]

3 hours ago, jd1923 said:

mine is nothing fancy

Thanks.  Mine is less fancy.  In particular, the coupler lock is the Curt longer rod varient that wouldnt survive a decent set of bolt cutters much less a good hit with a hammer.  You are probably correct that it doesnt matter that much.

 

[rideandfly]

We use a long shank Brinks padlock in the 2" Bulldog coupler. It fits snugly without drilling and hang the chains on the emergency brake cable snap-hook:

Tried a short shank Brinks padlock in the new 2 5/16" Bulldog and it fits, too. After making holes in the new Bulldog, will sand and spray paint with aluminum finish for contrast.

 

 

[Patriot]

We have used this coupler security and ABUS lock combo since we took delivery in June of 2020. Since it only takes less than 5 minutes to remove the BD coupler via the two bolts off the trailer tongue it’s a good deterent and better than nothing. Also when on the road it makes for an easy eye safety check during a walk around of our rig.

This combo continue to serve us well 6 years in. Both have strong reviews. I will use this collar and lock on the new 2 5/16 coupler.

Another plus with the  S/S collar, you cannot secure the collar on the coupler locking mechanism if the coupler is not properly locked down so the clam shell cannot be moved back on the hitch ball. A nice little extra built in secondary safety feature. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HL2NM0K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

ABUS Stainless lock made in Germany- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S5Y6ZS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 19 hours ago by Patriot

[Boudicca908]

34 minutes ago, Patriot said:

both collar and lock continue to serve us well

I purchased my Oliver in 2022 with the upgraded Bulldog 2 5/16 coupler and have no regrets.  I also use this collar with a slightly different ABUS lock. EDIT: I will also say that I use this coupler lock when I am hitched (visiting somewhere, for instance) as security. AND on top of that, as I like to boondock, I use the Fort Knox Locks box when I am not hitched, along with the collar lock. It might seem like a lot, but I worry a lot less with this setup. 

https://ftknoxlocks.com/shop/ols/products/bulldog-lock 

I'm sorry to hear about the issues with Bulldog. Hopefully they will straighten out and pull through. 

 

Edited 21 hours ago by Boudicca908
added info

[Patriot]

Just now, Boudicca908 said:

I'm sorry to hear about the issues with Bulldog. Hopefully they will straighten out and pull through. 

Hopefully they will restructure like many companies do. Only time will tell. 

[Townesw]

Those of you who use a lock in the lever as a method of securing your hitch should consider the Collar Lock. The wire bail between the lever and the sliding collar that secures the clam shell is easily removed without tools and the sliding collar can be pulled back by hand. 
 

 

Bill

Edited 19 hours ago by Townesw

[Patriot]

1 hour ago, Townesw said:

Those of you who use a lock in the lever as a method of securing your hitch should consider the Collar Lock. The wire bail between the lever and the sliding collar that secures the clam shell is easily removed without tools and the sliding collar can be pulled back by hand. 
 

 

Bill

Yes sir Bill, another big plus to the S/S collar. 👍🏻

[rideandfly]

Good discussion! Just measured the Bulldog 2 5/16" coupler and 1 7/8" ball mount/ball and discovered the following.

 With the 2 5/16" coupler with collar lock installed, a thief can easily back up to a trailer with 2 5/16" coupler, lower it on a 1 7/8" ball and drive away (not sure how far the  1 7/8" hitch would make it). My current 2" Bulldog coupler is still on Ollie stored at the airport, doubt it will slip over a 1 7/8" ball if locked with a collar lock like the Bulldog 2 5/16" coupler, but will check. 

At the most narrow inside portion of the 2 5/16" coupler with collar locked measures 1.91"

A 1 7/8" ball measures 1.87" outside diameter

A theft deterrent for the Bulldog 2 5/16" coupler needs to have the ball opening covered or filled to prevent this type of theft.

I like using the Bulldog coupler latch locked with a long shank padlock while in transit and for storing the chains with the emergency brake cable snap-hook. Also use an inexpensive  Universal Coupler Ball Lock that Fits 1-7/8", 2" and 2-5/16" couplers.

Previous Bulldog hitch discussion:

 

 

 

 

Edited 14 hours ago by rideandfly

[Patriot]

When parked at camp, I use a Proven Industries coupler lock with the optional S/S puck and Medco lock which is extremely robust. It’s just about bomb proof.

**** A note to any owners upgrading to the 2 5/16 BD coupler and IF you presently use a Proven coupler lock for with a 2” ball, no need to purchase a new Proven Industries lock. Your current 2” coupler lock will work. I mocked mine up this morning on the new BD 2/16 coupler and its fits perfectly. 

Do not loose the keys, as I cannot imagine trying to remove either of these this locks. 

 

 

Edited 3 hours ago by Patriot

[John Dorrer]

35 minutes ago, Patriot said:

When parked at camp, I use a Proven Industries coupler lock with the optional S/S puck and Medco lock which is extremely robust. It’s just about bomb proof.

**** A note to any owners upgrading to the 2 5/16 BD coupler and IF you presently use a Proven coupler lock for with a 2” ball, no need to purchase a new Proven Industries lock. Your current 2” coupler lock will work. I mocked mine up this morning on the new BD 2/16 coupler and its fits perfectly. 

Do not loose the keys, as I cannot imagine trying to remove either of these this locks. 

 

 

That's Awesome

[Tony and Rhonda]

This thread caused me to do a little googling on the 2 5/16' coupler. Didn't find any in a quick search, but that made me think of a question about future Olivers (and Oliver upgrades). Bulldog may or may not survive and 2 5/16' couplers are very scarce. What happens if Oliver runs out of the 2" couplers? Does anyone know of alternatives that fit an Oliver?

On 7/4/2026 at 11:06 AM, Patriot said:

I also ordered a spare coupler repair kit.

@Patriot Is the small plastic bag in the photo above the coupler repair kit? Are the kits ball size dependent? Part #024200? Thanks.

17 hours ago, Townesw said:

Those of you who use a lock in the lever as a method of securing your hitch should consider the Collar Lock. The wire bail between the lever and the sliding collar that secures the clam shell is easily removed without tools and the sliding collar can be pulled back by hand. 

51 minutes ago, Patriot said:

When parked at camp, I use a Proven Industries coupler lock

@Patriot and @Townesw We use a Paclock lock (similar to the Proven) and, with the lock in place, the bulldog collar may slide back (never tried) but the coupler arm doesn't open enough to remove the ball cavity insert. I was considering a more robust lever lock (Paclock keyed the same) but I do like the collar lock. I use an Abus 20/70 on our storage unit, does anyone know if they can be keyed to match an existing lock?

Thanks, Tony

[Geronimo John]

On 7/4/2026 at 4:10 PM, jd1923 said:

Some buy expensive locks. Some have added an internal switch to prevent the jacks from being lowered (a really bad idea). This would cause additional damage because the thief would prefer to lift the jacks, but if you prevent that, they'll just drag 'er down the street anyway, damaging the jack(s) at a minimum and likely body or frame damage too.

Good point JD. 

When I leave our Ollie in a location where it could be at risk, I lower the tongue (via the jack) closer to the ground and remove the fuse.  If not in use (think power to the frig.) I kill the master switch. The thief would need to pick up the 560 pound tongue or  haul it away using the safety cables.  Doing so makes our Ollie more of a PITA to relocate.  A collar lock and other means is gravy to boot.  

GJ   

[Steph and Dud B]

@Patriot, thanks for bringing this up. Prompted me to get a repair kit as well.