Mods of The Outlaw Oliver

[ScubaRx]

It seems that I just can't leave the Outlaw Oliver alone. This is a mod I did last summer.  It is a rear basket to carry some of our stuff, two of the folding Zero Gravity we got at Sam's Club and two of the folding Sports Chairs we got at Harbor Freight and two of the little folding Camp Tables we got at Walmart.

 

The mod was born from the need to get the above mentioned items out of the back of the truck. The are relatively light weight but, due to their bulk, they took up a LOT of room.

 

The basket started life as a Aluminum Cargo Carrier from Harbor Freight that I bought (but never used) for the original Outlaw Oliver many years ago. I removed the single receiver that was attached to the bottom and built a custom frame to set the carrier on.  Then I fashioned a steel cage to attach to the top of the carrier. It required moving the tag to the the carrier and I designed a new mount for it.  The items are placed inside through a removable "door" in the rear.  We had a custom cover made to match to one on the front that covers the generator. Zippers on the rear allow access to the door.  The whole affair mounts to two receivers on the rear bumper like the ones that Oliver supplies for their bicycle mount.  Empty, the basket and cover weigh 78 pounds.

 

[caption id=attachment_42881" align="alignnone" width="225] Completed cage, basket and custom carrier.[/caption]

 

 

 

[caption id=attachment_42882" align="alignnone" width="225] Latch for the "Door"[/caption]

 

 

 

[caption id=attachment_42883" align="alignnone" width="225] Milled leg on the custom carrier.[/caption]

 

 

 

[caption id=attachment_42884" align="alignnone" width="225] Redesigned tag mount.[/caption]

 

 

 

[caption id=attachment_42885" align="alignnone" width="225] Cover closed.[/caption]

 

 

 

[caption id=attachment_42880" align="alignnone" width="225] Cover open.[/caption]

[John E Davies]

I love your attention to detail and craftsmanship. Keep those projects coming.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[bugeyedriver]

John, I've been in that workshop and Steve has the tools and gizmos to create just about anything.  A master craftsman, he is.  Now if he can only turn that rig into a giant smoker, he'd really be in demand at all the rallies.  Well, Steve, how about it?

 

 

[Mike and Carol]

Nice work there, Steve.  Can't wait to see it in person.

 

Mike

[rideandfly]

Steve,

 

Wow, beautiful work!!!!!  Very creative and will get the job done!

[topgun2]

I had the good fortune to meet Steve and Tali back in late August while we were both "camped" at the Oliver sale office.  This "carrier" that Steve made is even more impressive in person.  Also, for those that have never had the privilege of touring the Outlaw Oliver, I highly recommend it.  Everywhere you look both inside and outside, Steve and Tali have done something - access doors, carriers, light switches, etc.  And, it has all been done with attention to detail in the Oliver style.

 

Bill

[Overland]

That's a nice solution to the gear storage problem.  We're still trying to figure out what we'll do in this regard - I guess it will all go in the truck until we figure out exactly what we need to carry and how much we can stuff into the Oliver.

 

Do most people carry their outdoor gear in the tow vehicle, or toss it inside the trailer?

[topgun2]

Overland,

 

I use the closet for two chairs, a Clam screen house, a table and a small rug.

 

Bill

[ScubaRx]

For those who have asked about the extra storage space that I created under the nose cone and behind the propane tanks. The first thing that I did was to remove the propane tanks and the tray that they sit in. I found that the rear screws into the frame that hold the tray down were both broken off from (I assume) the inertia and weight of the tanks leaning forward during braking. The tanks really could not go anywhere because they were obviously hitting the front of the cover, but they idea of them just rattling around in there was a little disconcerting. I re-drilled the holes and replaced the screws only to find them broken again after our next trip. You can see what I did to rectify that matter in the pictures. I’ve had no trouble with them since. I recommend that everyone check these screws to see if you’ve incurred the same problem.  The mesh in the floor is aluminum and it is the second one that I've installed.  The first was steel and, even though I painted it, it rusted - badly and it looked terrible.  Don't waste your time with the steel.

 

I included some measurements that will show how much room was gained. The outside doors are from Oliver and are the same doors as is on the cabinet in the bathroom. I will be happy to share how these were mounted for anyone that has that interest. I am currently in the process of putting lights in this area and one that will illuminate the foot of the front jack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Raspy]

I'll look at mine and try to figure out which screws you are referring too that broke.  I was in there recently to install 30lb tanks and add a quick disconnect fitting, but didn't see any problem.  I don't really like the self drilling screws they use though.   Those bathroom cabinet doors and the extra space are brilliant!

[Mainiac]

Love this whole concept. Such a great use of space. Think we will drill our chocks and blocks, and thread in a piece of knoted line (rope). This way we will be able to reach in and get the piece we need. Don't think we will drill or screw into the aluminum frame except to maybe replace an existing one. But a solid ubolt should give plenty of strength, maybe more, by spreading the bearing surface. Saw the pictures of hatch installation you showed in the other post, but close ups and measurement would be a great help. Thinking a propane quick connect, a shut off, on a hose that would come out of that hatch would save a lot of bending and be convenient and quick.

A nice installation and clear pictures of what was done. Thank You...

[Mainiac]

Thought only one hatch on the starboard (left) side would be all I needed. However in looking at pictures again I didn't realize there was a 7 pin connector in there on the port (right) side. Seeing, my experience, they could get knocked loose by objects in there bouncing around and also with open mesh floor it is subject to moisture and corrosion. Will have to look at possibly looking at a way to build a guard or hasp to hold it on. A hatch on the other side makes a whole lot of sense to assess the plug...

What is the inside opening of the hatch

[KarenLukens]

Thought only one hatch on the starboard (left) side would be all I needed. However in looking at pictures again I didn’t realize there was a 7 pin connector in there on the port (right) side. Seeing, my experience, they could get knocked loose by objects in there bouncing around and also with open mesh floor it is subject to moisture and corrosion. Will have to look at possibly looking at a way to build a guard or hasp to hold it on. A hatch on the other side makes a whole lot of sense to assess the plug… What is the inside opening of the hatch

 

Holding the 7 pin connector in place is what this is for -

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUQOAY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=DVETVI1ZF5E8&coliid=I3O4GK5QN3L5SH

[Mainiac]

I am thinking more of a quick release or debris cage. like is used to keep debris out of scuppers or other drains. I am thinking a pair of 6X6 blocks 11" long bouncing around would damage a plug/socket protected only by a releasable zip tie. Will have to wait and see all we have to work with.

[ScubaRx]

I’ll look at mine and try to figure out which screws you are referring too that broke. I was in there recently to install 30lb tanks and add a quick disconnect fitting, but didn’t see any problem. I don’t really like the self drilling screws they use though. Those bathroom cabinet doors and the extra space are brilliant!

 

This pic should show you the old screw hole and the fix that I did.  I generally do not use self drilling screws, rather drilling the proper size hole and using a sheet metal screw. In this case, I went with larger than original screws and used two on each side as opposed to the one that was originally used.

[ScubaRx]

Steve, I am curious to know if you ever thought about mods to the basement? Since it is not a pass thru space, reaching items at the far end can be a challenge. Even the lighting could be improved? Any thoughts? Buzzy PS – Great pics, nice work!

 

Buzzy, thanks for the inquiry and the interest.  I did these mods to the basement a long time ago.  Some were actually started during construction:

Here you can see where we cut holes in the inside bottom shell to receive hatches (again, these are the same as that one in the bathroom.)  The one in the rear under the nightstand is to access the basement.  The one on the starboard side is to access the valves  at the pump that control the alternate tank fill system and the valves at the floor that drain the water lines.  The one on the port side is only to satisfy my OCD Libra need for everything to be symmetrical and balanced.

 

 

 

 

I added two lights to the basement area.  They are controlled by a set of 3-way switches, one located right inside the basement door:

 

 

and the other located to the right of the interior hatch on the inside under the nightstand:

 

 

 

[ScubaRx]

..Saw the pictures of hatch installation you showed in the other post, but close ups and measurement would be a great help…

 

I will be happy to provide, but I'm now quite sure what measurements you need...

 

Thought only one hatch on the starboard (left) side would be all I needed. However in looking at pictures again I didn’t realize there was a 7 pin connector in there on the port (right) side. Seeing, my experience, they could get knocked loose by objects in there bouncing around and also with open mesh floor it is subject to moisture and corrosion. Will have to look at possibly looking at a way to build a guard or hasp to hold it on. A hatch on the other side makes a whole lot of sense to assess the plug… What is the inside opening of the hatch

 

We've never had any problem with anything moving around in there while we are traveling.  Not saying it couldn't happen but there's really not anything that could get knocked loose.  The 7-pin connector is secured with a large wire tie and there is not a reason I've found to need to access it very often.  Since everything we store there (chocks and blocks)  is subjected to the weather while in use we don't worry about moisture and corrosion.  We like the two hatches for the ease of storing since there are chocks and blocks coming from and going to each side of the trailer. The 7-pin connector is already in the weather with no floor at all in that area so I guess (theoretically) it is actually some better off with the added protection of a mesh floor... just kidding.

 

 

[ScubaRx]

Here are some follow up pics of the rear basket mounted and ready to travel:

 

 

Pop Quiz for extra credit, what is the plate with the hole in it and the weird gizmo for? Look closely you can see them in the previous pics.

 

 

 

 

[Overland]

Well, you have to hang your flag somewhere.

[ScubaRx]

Well, you have to hang your flag somewhere.

 

And there you go.  You have now been awarded and extra 10 bonus points. Now go back and look at the pics in the previous posts about the lower access doors and you'll see where we store the flag poles.

[Overland]

See, that gives me a great idea for our trailer - we're doing the twin beds, but with a table, and now I know where to hide the table posts.

 

 

[ScubaRx]

See, that gives me a great idea for our trailer – we’re doing the twin beds, but with a table, and now I know where to hide the table posts.

 

It took me forever to find a source for  the clips to hold different size tubes. These are the ones that I ended up buying. There are eight different sizes available. You will need The 2" size for the table posts.

 

[John E Davies]

It took me forever to find a source for the clips to hold different size tubes. These are the ones that I ended up buying. There are eight different sizes available. You will need The 2″ size for the table posts.  

Do thise pivot at the base of the arms or are they solid molded plastic? Do they get brittle with age? They seem pretty stout....

 

https://www.amazon.com/HOLDING-CLIP-CLIPPER-1-1-2/dp/B001HBSTTK

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Overland]

Thanks Steve - I was going to ask where you got those.

[ScubaRx]

John, they do not pivot and they are secured with a couple of screws. According to their advertising blurb they are made of poly carbonate and do not stretch or lose their spring.  I can personally say that they have held our flag poles and table leg for several thousand miles without incident. I do not know if this qualifies for anything like a long term endorsement.