Water pressure regulator

[Frank C]

The Oliver webpage mentions that they provide most of the items needed for campsite hookups like the potable water hose and a water pressure regulator. Is the water pressure regulator an adjustable type or a fixed pressure setting with no adjustment ?

[topgun2]

FrankC -

 

You'd be better off asking this question to your sales rep at Oliver since they change items every so often.  However, from what I know, the pressure regulator that Oliver supplies is not adjustable.

 

Bill

[John E Davies]

They may give you one of the cheap cylinderical regulators that is not adjustable and in reality just restricts water flow. It works but I would rather know what the pressure is and not restrict flow... one of these screwed into a disposable blue Camco water filter works great. Hook it up at the trailer, not the faucet, and you can add a 90 degree brass elbow at the outlet end, and lay the hose on top of the bumper to get keep it all off the ground and out of the way. It allows access to the rear compartment without tripping over the hose and other parts. It looks cool too, if that matters....

 

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJLAIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[Frank C]

Thanks John.   I agree, I want an adjustable regulator with a gauge to actually know what’s going on. And yes, having equipment that’s both functional and looks cool does matter. ?

[DavePhelps]

Frank,

 

I know you asked for a regulator with a gauge, but this unit has worked very well for me. It is simple, bombproof, and as far as I can tell, has a much higher flow rating than the cheaper units:

 

https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Fixed.htm

 

If you still need or want to have a gauge, this store also sells those, although they are expensive.  I've been very happy dealing with this outfit and their products are top notch.

 

Dave

[BackofBeyond]

Thanks John D,

 

I am not totally happy with the unit that came with the Oliver. It works fine, but I much prefer to adjust to suit my needs, not to mention the gauge and coolness factor. Looks like there are two similar units on the big A, one a  little cheaper in price with a different gauge. Other than 120 vs 160 psi they look similar.

 

Another "thing" to buy the Oliver. Thanks.....;-)

 

 

[bradbev]

Good information in this thread.  I use the adjustable unit pictured above with the gauge.  I would caution you to not leave the regulator in use or stored in freezing weather.  Water gets into the spiral pressure tube, also known as a Bourdon tube.  Should it freeze, the Bourdon tube is distorted and the needle is no longer accurate.  (Trust me on this - experience)

 

The only other item I'll mention is that I always install the regulator at the valve, protecting the hose.  I've seen an overpressured hoses that looked like a snake that had eaten a rat.

 

But, truthfully, I rarely used a regulator nor hook up to city water.  I fill my water tank using a filter and operate with the pump 99% of the time.

 

Brad

[mdernier]

John,

 

Does the regulator you recommend continue to regulate pressure even when the flow is zero?  I've looked at the regulator you linked (and a lot of the same type on Amazon) and they do not say whether the regulation continues to work at zero flow.  If not, then the connections downstream of that regulator (possibly within the rig if connected to the city water inlet) are going to see unregulated pressure at zero flow.

[John E Davies]

John,

 

Does the regulator you recommend continue to regulate pressure even when the flow is zero? I’ve looked at the regulator you linked (and a lot of the same type on Amazon) and they do not say whether the regulation continues to work at zero flow. If not, then the connections downstream of that regulator (possibly within the rig if connected to the city water inlet) are going to see unregulated pressure at zero flow.

 

The trailer plumbing is always safe with the regulator I showed above;  the gage remains at your set point regardless of whether or not water is moving through the hose. From that you can see that the trailer side is always protected, or the gage would spike to the higher reading when you turned off the flow. If you ever see that happen, it means your unit is bad. Which can happen.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

[hobo]

They may give you one of the cheap cylinderical regulators that is not adjustable and in reality just restricts water flow. It works but I would rather know what the pressure is and not restrict flow… one of these screwed into a disposable blue Camco water filter works great. Hook it up at the trailer, not the faucet, and you can add a 90 degree brass elbow at the outlet end, and lay the hose on top of the bumper to get keep it all off the ground and out of the way. It allows access to the rear compartment without tripping over the hose and other parts. It looks cool too, if that matters….

 

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YJLAIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

 

 

 

John,  Could you possibly snap a pic of your setup?  I want to make sure I do this correctly.

[John E Davies]

Keep in mind the water hose and filter are not protected from over pressure, but I honestly don’t care much about that. This does get the entire unit out of the way and well off the ground, with the bumper either lowered or raised.

 

The short spring reinforced hose section came with the Camco filter. It is not needed but provides a little flexibility and also takes some strain off the port in the side of the trailer.

 

You could put the filter after the regualtor, to protect it, but I prefer to filter out any sediment before it reaches the regulator, which only has a coarse screen.

 

 

There are definitely better filters out there! But they do the job, the refill 2-Packs for these are about $30 and you can get them from Amazon or any Walmart store. ...  https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[hobo]

John,

 

PERFECT!

 

Thanks for the pic.  I'm a very visual learner.  I am ordering the parts as we speak.  We take delivery on "2 Hobos" in May but I want to gather enough most of the basics over the winter.

 

Thanks again.

[hobo]

John,

 

 

 

Quick follow up:  When you disconnect everything for travel, do you leave the 90 on the trailer or do you remove everything?  It looks in the pic like your cap chain is now affixed to your 90 elbow.  Maybe it's not but that is what the pic looks like.  Thanks again.

[John E Davies]

Hobo, I take everything off and cap the port. I don't like the idea of towing with extra stuff sticking out, though with my mudflaps it is not such a hazardous situation.... I do let the filter drain before putting it away. Some filter users leave them inside the cabin to completely dry out between uses, but I have never bothered and I haven’t got sick yet. I do replace it seasonally.

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[KWRJRPE]

I too greatly appreciate the pictures and will definitely hookup to city water same method. In this discussion, Brad mentioned using the OTT pump system with onboard water 99% of the time rather than hookup to city water - I am curious the pros and cons of choosing either option? I can guess using your own water eliminates concerns about the unknown quality and pressure of a city connection - are there other reasons? Also, does the OTT water/pump system deliver water pressure and flow response similar to the city hookup, for example when showering?

[Overland]

My experience has been that the pump’s pressure is typically better.

 

The drawbacks to using the pump are the effort it takes and long term wear on the pump.  The advantages are not having to disconnect in freezing temps or having to use a heated hose, not worrying about water pressure, and just gaining a better familiarity with the onboard system if you don’t boondock much.

 

We have a filter just in case we need to pull from a stream, but don’t use it regularly.  We carry bottled water, as many do, so don’t see the need to filter water from a tap.  The screens on the inlet and the pump are enough to catch any debris that might harm the pump.

 

In general, we don’t worry too much about water pressure spikes either, though we carry a regulator from RV Water Filter Store.

 

We carry a spare pump, which IMO is cheap insurance.

[hobo]

Overland:  What's involved in replacing the pump?  (Not having my unit here to look at, I'm at a disadvantage.)  That might not be a bad idea.

 

Are the pumps used in the Ollies readily available?

 

Thanks

 

 

[topgun2]

Yes, the water pump is easy to get to on the CURB side under the bed.  Replacement is also relatively easy with just two water line connections and three or four screws that hold the pump to a board. Entire process should take less than 1/2 hour.  Take a look at the picture below.

 

Bill

[Overland]

Shurflo also sells rebuild kits, if you don't want to carry an entire pump.  I think the only thing not in the rebuild kit is the motor, but I also think there's more than one 'kit' so be sure of what you're buying .  I figure that if my pump goes out, I'm not going to be in the mood to rebuild it then and there, plus I think the full rebuild kit was almost as expensive as the pump itself.

 

Here is the pump - https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-4008-101-A65-Water-Pump-Revolution/dp/B00W5GCQC2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shurflo+4008&qid=1548082733&sr=8-2

[John E Davies]

Sureflo also sells rebuild kits, if you don’t want to carry an entire pump. I think the only thing not in the rebuild kit is the motor. But I figure that if my pump goes out, I’m not going to be in the mood to rebuild it then and there.

 

Agreed 100%, it is easier to swap the pump assembly, and repair the bad one later and use that as your spare. If the pump quits you will not be in the mood to fuss around with diagnosing things. But always check for 12 volt DC power at the pump connector before changing parts, it may just be a blown fuse., which only takes a couple of minutes to change. If you carry spare fuses....

 

John Davies

 

Spokane WA

[Maverick]

Yes, the water pump is easy to get to on the street side under the bed.

Bill

 

Our water pump is located on the CURB side of the trailer under the bed.

[topgun2]

OOPS!  Sorry about that - original post is edited!  Should have read curbside!

 

Bill

[hobo]

Thanks to all who  contributed.

 

This looks like an easy fix if and when the pump (or fuse) goes down.  Probably will get a spare to carry with me.  It's cheap insurance in my mind.

[SeaDawg]

Our original water pump lasted 10 years.  And, we have never used the city water connection.

 

Just our experience.

 

Sherry

[KWRJRPE]

As I continue preparations for Oliver Elite II pickup (#444) in April 2019, I am putting together a notebook of camping "Best Practices" with pictures clearly showing the best way to camp with the Oliver (a "How to Oliver Camp Manual").  A perfect example is John Davies picture of hose and filter attached to the City Water Connection - truly a Best Practice.  Being new to camping with a travel trailer, I am interested in actual camping pictures showing Best Practice setups with shore power, generators, rugs, grills, Clams, levels, cooking, dishwashing, setup in Walmart for overnight boondocking - practically any routine activities where your experience has found the "Best Practice".

 

The forum is great for sharing pictures pertaining to fixing or modifying things - my request is for pictures showing the everyday Oliver camping life you probably take for granted, but, newbies like me may find instructional.

 

Just a thought.