Anti-theft devices

[topgun2]

Carl - 

Does THIS help - see the pictures to the right of the page.

Bill

[Carl Hansen]

7 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

Does THIS help

Yes it does!  Thank you!

Carl

[topgun2]

Carl - 

I do use a wheel boot while I have my Ollie in long term storage but it is not a Proven Industries one.  Whether or not it is overkill depends on a bunch of factors that basically all come down to how comfortable you are with where your Oliver is located.

In my case, I do not use a wheel boot while I'm "on the road" - it is fairly bulky, heavy and too cumbersome for my taste and if I'm parked in a place that I feel is that sketchy I simply move elsewhere.  However, while on the road I do always (both while moving and while stopped/camped) use a hitch lock plus a ball lock when camped in places that where I'm not necessarily around all day/night.

Bill

[Carl Hansen]

Thank you. That is a great use model to follow. 
Carl

[SeaDawg]

We use the collar lock in transit, and at camp. At camp, along with a Blaylock tongue lock. 

I don't think it's compatible with proven lock at camp. 

[Patriot]

9 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

[Patriot]

On 5/8/2021 at 8:45 PM, Ray and Susan Huff said:

Does this diminish the effectiveness of the Proven Lock?

I guess it depends on how bad a thief wants your Oliver TT. If a thief wants your rig bad enough I suppose there is nothing short of removing the wheels off a camper to prevent theft. We use the Proven lock as a very good deterrent and also proof to our insurance carrier we have done everything we can to prevent theft. 

We have the upgraded stainless steel puck lock and Medco key cylinder. (Don’t loose the key in big letters in instructions). I can’t imagine trying to remove the Proven lock if a key went missing. In my opinion it’s the best deterrent made for a coupler lock. It fits loosely for a reason to make it very difficult to drill or cut into. 

Having spent a really long career in Law Enforcement I never investigated or read a report on camper theft. Not to imply it does not happen, but it seems pretty rare. I know I have never read about an Ollie being stolen.
 

We do the best we can to secure your rig and have excellent insurance coverage and choose CGs wisely.

 

[Carl Hansen]

On 5/8/2021 at 4:50 PM, Patriot said:

Bill,

I have the proven lock and you are correct, the safety chains do not “go” or fit inside the lock. 

- Patriot

I found this video for the bulldog coupler and it shows the safety chains can be secured in the lock.  Am I missing something?  Maybe the hooks on your chains are a different size?  I don't have my Ollie yet but I am planning on ordering this lock.  Securing the safety chains would be a great benefit.

Carl

 

[Carl Hansen]

4 minutes ago, Carl Hansen said:

I found this video for the bulldog coupler and it shows the safety chains can be secured in the lock.  Am I missing something?  Maybe the hooks on your chains are a different size?  I don't have my Ollie yet but I am planning on ordering this lock.  Securing the safety chains would be a great benefit.

Carl

 

Well now I'm confused...  When ordering this lock, I just read this... "Trailer coupler lock model 2178-B may not fit all trailer couplers. Please look at trailer coupler lock index pictures below, if you do not see your trailer coupler picture please fill out contact form to ensure you will get the correct trailer coupler lock. This style will NOT allow you to secure safety chains in lock."   Maybe I should contact the company.

Carl

[LongStride]

The gal in the video says that she is going to demonstrate the product on a two inch bulldog style coupler.  The one that she has in the video looks like a RAM coupler.  Whatever it is, it is not a Bulldog.

[Carl Hansen]

3 minutes ago, LongStride said:

The gal in the video says that she is going to demonstrate the product on a two inch bulldog style coupler.  The one that she has in the video looks like a RAM coupler.  Whatever it is, it is not a Bulldog.

OK, thank makes more sense!

[Patriot]

14 hours ago, Carl Hansen said:

OK, thank makes more sense!

Carl,

I called Proven industries and told them about my application on the Oliver and they said the chains do not fit inside the lock. I don’t think anything has changed, but given the price of the lock maybe give them a call for further details. They were great to deal with. If you get the Medeco  cylinder I highly recommend a spare key. 

[Carl Hansen]

Just now, Patriot said:

Carl,

I called Proven industries and told them about my application on the Oliver and they said the chains do not fit inside the lock. I don’t think anything has changed, but given the price of the lock maybe give them a call for further details. They were great to deal with. If you get the Medco cylinder I highly recommend a spare key.

I have a text into them but I am sure I will get the same response. I did order the Medco cylinder. I will need to make sure I get a spare ordered. Thanks!

[Patriot]

13 hours ago, Carl Hansen said:

I have a text into them but I am sure I will get the same response. I did order the Medco cylinder. I will need to make sure I get a spare ordered. Thanks!

The spare medeco key I believe was $14 shipped and it took several days as they actually have to cut another the key. 
 

[Carl Hansen]

1 hour ago, Patriot said:

The spare medeco key I believe was $14 shipped and it took several days as they actually have to cut another the key. 
 

Thanks for the heads up. I sent them a message yesterday about a second key. 

[Carl Hansen]

I just heard back from customer support about securing the safety chains. Here is their response:

“Hi Carl, Thank you for reaching out. The first generation Model 2178-B did secure the hooks inside the lock, as shown in the demo video. However, Over time, we were made aware of a vulnerability that occurred if the hooks were too small or left out of the lock. Because there was too much space left open inside the lock with small hooks or no hooks, the coupler was simply able to be unlatched and the lock would come right off. In order to relieve this vulnerability, we had to shrink up the tube of the lock and remove the safety hook feature. At this time, we do not have any other lock that will fit the bulldog (arrow nose) coupler and secure the safety hooks. We do apologize for the inconvenience.“

They also indicated in a separate message that the lock does come with a second key. 
 

Carl

[Ray and Susan Huff]

On 5/8/2021 at 7:16 PM, SeaDawg said:

I'd be ok with a ball bearing and a bulldog. Not an empty hitch.

We have several spare hitch balls.  Would one work instead of a ball bearing?

[topgun2]

9 minutes ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

Would one work instead of a ball bearing?

Assuming that these hitch balls still have the threaded end/shank on them, all a thief would have to do is remove their hitch ball, put yours into its place, and drive off.  Therefore, the answer to the question would be - none of them.

Bill

[Ray and Susan Huff]

Just now, topgun2 said:

Assuming that these hitch balls still have the threaded end/shank on them, all a thief would have to do is remove their hitch ball, put yours into its place, and drive off.  Therefore, the answer to the question would be - none of them.

Bill

I guess they could remove the hitch from the receiver, attach it to the shank protruding from the Bulldog coupler, then replace the hitch in the receiver.  Probably not an easy task, but possible.  

Could you sacrifice a spare 2" ball by cutting off the shank?  As you can probably tell, I'm trying to come up with a solution using what we have 😀

[John E Davies]

1 hour ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

We have several spare hitch balls.  Would one work instead of a ball bearing?

Sure, if you have a power band or saber saw or are willing to spend twenty minutes using a hacksaw to cut off the shank. I don't think one with a long shank sticking out would deter theft. These hitch balls are fairly mild (soft) steel and not that hard to cut. Be sure to dress out any rough edges with a belt sander afterwards for looks, and so you don't open up a finger on a sharp part. A steel ball bearing OTH is chrome plated and hardened, and more fun to play with. 

John Davies

Spokane WA

[BackofBeyond]

Thieves can be resourceful lot - and the smarter ones usually ply their trade in target rich environments. Other than when in a remote storage - or similar - it is my opinion - you try to discourage the casual thief as much as possible - and forget about it in the long run. Professional crooks will defeat anything you put in place. 

I worry more about the jerks that just want to destroy stuff - and if it is an easy mark  - walk away with a few trinkets. 

Removing the wheels is probably the best deterrent - but give the pro  a little time - and your Ollie would be gone -  .

The old sign posted on the door - Hey Joe - we went to get more Ammo- be back in a few - don't let Jake out of the RV - he just got out of dog jail for eating the neighbor - and he is in a bad mood - we ran out of dog food...... seems about as good in a campsite situation.

RB

PS - I have read of of a well traveled HD enthusiast who had a very non descript trailer for his HD's - on the outside it was labeled something to the effect - Universal Bible Company - we deliver free bibles to all that are in need. Guess we can't hide Ollie....

[Ray and Susan Huff]

2 hours ago, John E Davies said:

Sure, if you have a power band or saber saw or are willing to spend twenty minutes using a hacksaw to cut off the shank. I don't think one with a long shank sticking out would deter theft. These hitch balls are fairly mild (soft) steel and not that hard to cut. Be sure to dress out any rough edges with a belt sander afterwards for looks, and so you don't open up a finger on a sharp part. A steel ball bearing OTH is chrome plated and hardened, and more fun to play with. 

John Davies

Spokane WA

We have a cutting torch . . . . would that be better?  Where there's a will, there's a way 😄

[John E Davies]

19 minutes ago, Ray and Susan Huff said:

We have a cutting torch . . . . would that be better?  Where there's a will, there's a way 😄

Well, I think it comes down to skill of the operator - a plasma cutter or a shaped charge of C4 explosive would also do it, but none of these would be my tool of choice…

John Davies

Spokane WA

[LongStride]

Yesterday I ordered two 2" AISI 52100 chrome steel ball bearings from Amazon for $22.00.  They showed up this afternoon.  I will be using a ball bearing with an Abus 24/70 Diskus padlock and "The Collar".  It would require power tools (side grinder) and a bit of time to defeat this setup.  I opted for the ball bearing over a Blaylock style because I don't want to deal with two padlocks.  I would imagine that in most cases, thieves driving by would see the disc lock/collar combination and look for an easier target; unless they planned on dropping the coupler on a smaller ball.  The ball bearing would then foil that plan.  

[BackofBeyond]

14 minutes ago, LongStride said:

Yesterday I ordered two 2" AISI 52100 chrome steel ball bearings from Amazon for $22.00.  They showed up this afternoon.  I will be using a ball bearing with an Abus 24/70 Diskus padlock and "The Collar".  It would require power tools (side grinder) and a bit of time to defeat this setup.  I opted for the ball bearing over a Blaylock style because I don't want to deal with two padlocks.  I would imagine that in most cases, thieves driving by would see the disc lock/collar combination and look for an easier target; unless they planned on dropping the coupler on a smaller ball.  The ball bearing would then foil that plan.  

In less than a few minutes - remove the entire setup sans the bulldog hitch - but in reality - just chain it up, and go.

RB