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Posted

I've worked for a solid week on various issues/mods and am trying to learn all the systems in my new to me LE2.    I seem to keep coming across problems!   Besides the city water slowly filling my fresh water tank, I've finally managed to get the fresh water outlet unplugged with two rounds of bleach solution, one round of vinegar and some compressed air!  My trailer sat for awhile so I understood that algae/mold clogged the drain and pump prefilter.    I'm a little miffed that the fresh outlet is so small, that it takes forever to drain and there's no way to clean it!  On my Casita, I installed a top marine deck plate so I could scrub it out!    I had a party when I finally got this thing flowing.

But here's my next irritation!  Now...unfortunately, the rain for the last two days has somehow soaked both mattresses & brand new bedding in the rear!   I've thoroughly pipe cleaned all the weep holes days before this rain came... I did this with my Casita so I know to do it..   As I lay here I'm watching water come down from the rear window and cross over the silver belly band trim and on to the other streetside bed!  I went up on the ladder and the rear brake light doesn't seem to have a break in the caulking.  There's no leak I can see from the inside of the rear cupboard either!  What the heck?  This wasn't a cheap investment...I'm getting frustrated...whats it gonna be next?  I never had this many issues so close together in 10 years of owning my Casita..and I also bought it used!

Help me out here folks!  I'm getting discouraged.  Even the Penguin air conditioner sounds like a jet engine..is it really always going to be this LOUD?   

There just shouldn't be this many issues with a four year old trailer of this caliber! 

 

 

 

 

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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Posted

Sorry you're having these issues in a 4 year old trailer.

Tey putting a layer of blue shop  toweling in the attic. The leak you are describing is almost always a third tail light that has lost some of its seal. The rainwater finds its way down.

Barring that, put some clear duct tape around the light. If the leak stops, it's the light lens. If not, try some over the top of the rear window. Work your way down, and around. It's also possible that the bedding or caulking for the rear window has failed, and never been renewed.

The weepholes aren't very big, for the size of the window. We installed ez rv gutter years ago, and it really helps to divert water from the window/weepholes.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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Posted

The ac is noisy, but shouldn't be any more noisy than the (probably) same ac installed in your previous Casita.

Might want to check the flange bolts, to make sure the upper unit is properly tightened in. Check that the shroud isn't loose and rattling, also.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

  • Moderator+
Posted

I had this exact problem. It took me three years, several trips to the factory and constantly blaming the wrong thing to find and finally fix the issue. It wasn't the weep holes.

I'd bet a month's salary it's the high tail light leaking and it's unlikely you'll see a hole in the caulking from the outside. In order to find the leak, you'll need to tear out all the insulation that's glued inside the upper rear cabinet. This is no big deal, it's just sprayed with adhesive and pressed into place, it will go back up although you may need to respray it. Then you need to remove the inside cover over the light itself. Wherever the water is entering it is running down the inside of the outer shell and then between the shells until it gets to the top of the window frame. This is below your level of sight from the upper cabinet. From there, it runs around the frame and drips out the bottom corner of the window on the inside and runs down to the top of the belly band. This allows the water to run to either side, depending on which side of the trailer is lowest.

If it's still raining and hard enough, the leak will be obvious, if not, you'll need someone outside with a hose.  Also, observe the backside of the adjacent marker lights, they can provide an entry point as well.

Here is a photo I took nearly seven years ago during my quest to find a solution. Feel free to duplicate if you deem it helpful.

Tali-000 - Img_1668.jpg

 

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Steve, Tali and our dog Rocky plus our beloved dogs Storm, Lucy, Maggie and Reacher (all waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD SRW Diesel 4x4       

 

Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Sorry you're having these issues in a 4 year old trailer.

Tey putting a layer of blue shop  toweling in the attic. The leak you are describing is almost always a third tail light that has lost some of its seal. The rainwater finds its way down.

Barring that, put some clear duct tape around the light. If the leak stops, it's the light lens. If not, try some over the top of the rear window. Work your way down, and around. It's also possible that the bedding or caulking for the rear window has failed, and never been renewed.

The weepholes aren't very big, for the size of the window. We installed ez rv gutter years ago, and it really helps to divert water from the window/weepholes.

Thank you. I will check the window caulk.  The trailer already has the ez rv gutters running on every window!

Edited by csevel
Wrong quote

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted
6 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

The ac is noisy, but shouldn't be any more noisy than the (probably) same ac installed in your previous Casita.

Might want to check the flange bolts, to make sure the upper unit is properly tightened in. Check that the shroud isn't loose and rattling, also.

Thank you..I had an older Coleman Polar Cub that was quiet considering the smaller space but this Penguin is ridiculous!  I hope I never have to sleep with that thing on!   We were just up on the roof as when we bought the trailer, the first thing we had to do was remove a nice sized bird's nest from under the shroud.  It's tight and I've added rubber washers to help rattling.

  • Like 1

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted
5 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

I had this exact problem. It took me three years, several trips to the factory and constantly blaming the wrong thing to find and finally fix the issue. It wasn't the weep holes.

I'd bet a month's salary it's the high tail light leaking and it's unlikely you'll see a hole in the caulking from the outside. In order to find the leak, you'll need to tear out all the insulation that's glued inside the upper rear cabinet. This is no big deal, it's just sprayed with adhesive and pressed into place, it will go back up although you may need to respray it. Then you need to remove the inside cover over the light itself. Wherever the water is entering it is running down the inside of the outer shell and then between the shells until it gets to the top of the window frame. This is below your level of sight from the upper cabinet. From there, it runs around the frame and drips out the bottom corner of the window on the inside and runs down to the top of the belly band. This allows the water to run to either side, depending on which side of the trailer is lowest.

If it's still raining and hard enough, the leak will be obvious, if not, you'll need someone outside with a hose.  Also, observe the backside of the adjacent marker lights, they can provide an entry point as well.

Here is a photo I took nearly seven years ago during my quest to find a solution. Feel free to duplicate if you deem it helpful.

Tali-000 - Img_1668.jpg

 

I read nearly all of your posts on the rear lens.  I am bound and determined to get to the bottom of it and will now tear into that freaking light.  I realize all trailers need maintenance but am just getting upset that I'm having this many issues with a unit this young.  I took out a large portion of my retirement savings as this was my dream trailer..but its feeling more like a nightnare!

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted

Purchased our LE2 Ollie used, it is our dream retirement camper, too. Our Ollie's "Rear Oliver Sign" leaked and the top of the dinette window leaked, too.

The dinette window leak was from from the exterior porch light above the window. The light was removed and wire holes in the hull sealed along with top and sides of the old style exterior fixture. Also drilled a drain hole in the bottom of the old style light fixture.  No more leaks in that area! 👍

Old style porch light fixture:

IMG_0543-L.jpg

The following photo shows where rear Oliver LED light sign leak was dripping between hulls. Water traveled between the inner and outer hulls coming out of the bottom left side of the rear window on the curbside mattress. Removed the Oliver lens and cleaned out all of the old sealant. Resealed Oliver lens and no more leaks! 😁

All campers will eventually leak, good thing about the Oliver, when a leak is repaired there is not any wood damage to worry about!

IMG_2425-L.jpg

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2015 LE2 #75 / 2024 F-150/5.0L

 

Posted

Also, given the age of the trailer and that it sat unused for a long time, the exterior caulking around all the hull penetration areas (roof vents, windows, rear camera bracket, awning brackets, etc.) may be long overdue for re-caulking.  Oliver recommends that all exterior caulking be checked/re-done every 12 months.   The caulking does age/degrade with time and exposure to the sun & elements.  

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Posted

Thanks everyone.. I'm aware of trailer maintenance items as my Casita was my baby and I took exceptional pride and care in keeping her pristine.  I have no problems doing the work, I actually enjoy it, but this has been one heck of a week!  I thought I'd be able to put down the tools a bit with ILOVHER and camp!

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

  • Moderators
Posted
10 minutes ago, csevel said:

Thanks everyone.. I'm aware of trailer maintenance items as my Casita was my baby and I took exceptional pride and care in keeping her pristine.  I have no problems doing the work, I actually enjoy it, but this has been one heck of a week!  I thought I'd be able to put down the tools a bit with ILOVHER and camp!

On the positive side, you are getting a crash course on some parts of your Oliver.  Steve suggested some work in the attic, I’ve had that insulation out several times for various projects.  Learning where all the possible leak location are, where the weep holes are, etc will come in handy in the future.  Every time I have a maintenance issue I look at it as another short course in my Oliver expertise.  Plus, all of your Casita experience will be invaluable. Pretty soon you won’t be the question asker here, you’ll be one of the professors.  Mike

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Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpgALAZARCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMAMS

Posted
10 hours ago, csevel said:

I've worked for a solid week on various issues/mods and am trying to learn all the systems in my new to me LE2.    I seem to keep coming across problems!   Besides the city water slowly filling my fresh water tank, I've finally managed to get the fresh water outlet unplugged with two rounds of bleach solution, one round of vinegar and some compressed air!  My trailer sat for awhile so I understood that algae/mold clogged the drain and pump prefilter.    I'm a little miffed that the fresh outlet is so small, that it takes forever to drain and there's no way to clean it!  On my Casita, I installed a top marine deck plate so I could scrub it out!    I had a party when I finally got this thing flowing.

But here's my next irritation!  Now...unfortunately, the rain for the last two days has somehow soaked both mattresses & brand new bedding in the rear!   I've thoroughly pipe cleaned all the weep holes days before this rain came... I did this with my Casita so I know to do it..   As I lay here I'm watching water come down from the rear window and cross over the silver belly band trim and on to the other streetside bed!  I went up on the ladder and the rear brake light doesn't seem to have a break in the caulking.  There's no leak I can see from the inside of the rear cupboard either!  What the heck?  This wasn't a cheap investment...I'm getting frustrated...whats it gonna be next?  I never had this many issues so close together in 10 years of owning my Casita..and I also bought it used!

Help me out here folks!  I'm getting discouraged.  Even the Penguin air conditioner sounds like a jet engine..is it really always going to be this LOUD?   

There just shouldn't be this many issues with a four year old trailer of this caliber! 

 

 

 

 

The new to you Oliver- is not new - and seems to have been mothballed incorrectly. 

I too have had issues - with our 2018- but overall I have gotten to the bottom of them all.

Leaks - can be tough - it is a process that requires systematic trial and error. My windows leaked - but it was really just a design issue - I make sure the channels are clear, have put the gutters over them - and the best corrective action - I enlarged the weep holes to about twice the original size. I am now pretty much leak free - other than direct higher pressure spray - spray hose or wind driven rain. I regularly check the dreaded rear light and after a good wash - for any moisture in under around the cushions and such.  I am good to go for last year or so. While you are searching - put some thirsty towels under the windows - helps with discovery - and such.

As for you water inlet and flow complaints - mine work very well - I must assume yours are just restricted due to prior ownership  letting bad water sit for to long - although I just don't understand how that would happen with normal h2o. I am not certain just bleach is the answer.

As for the AC - it sucks - as does mine.  Dometic is slang for POS. The only solution is replacement with the newer designs.

Yes the cost seems to imply perfection - but as we have all found - that is a pipe dream. 

A perfect Casita - to me- well - nevermind.

Good luck learning about YOUR Oliver- they all seem to have their own personalities.

RB

 

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Cindy,  Russell and  "Harley dog" . Home is our little farm near Winchester TN

2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II - 2018 GMC 2500 Duramax 

"Die young - As late as possible"
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Posted

Like I said.. I wasnt completely delusional about maintenance as ALL RVs need some kind of upkeep .. Just ask my rivet gun!   Its just I thought I wouldnt be encountering one issue after another in a trailer that is considered in the top three FB manufacturers! No offense, just am annoyed to sleep in a wet bed! 

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted

Just so you guys know..I went ahead and peeled the insulation back from the interior rear brake light and ScubaRx is the winner winner chicken dinner.  There is definitely moisture back there!  I'm not sure exactly how to take it apart but I took the obnoxious amount of Gorilla tape from around it and am studying how it's fixed in there.  It looks like it slides out..but I'm not sure.  I'm off to buy some Fllexseal tape and figure out how to proceed.  If you have any tips ..please keep them coming! Oh, and just so you guys know, I DO have EZ rv rain gutters over every window..might try to add some to above that brake light!

Thanks guys/gals!

Claudia

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2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

Posted

I'm guessing "obnoxious amount of Gorilla tape" is not something that came from the factory, so this must have already been an issue for the previous owner. 

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Posted

I feel Csevel's pain for sure.  While I have not had a leak to deal with, my 2021 E2 has been keeping me busy since picking it up last December.  Off the top of my head the issues I've dealt with includes:  1) tank sensor fell off fresh water tank, 2) malfunctioning heat pad for lithium batteries (still to be replaced), 3) Xantrex was set to AGM batteries instead of the lithium package I had causing multiple issues 4) radio/tv anteana was not attached to mast correctly so fell off while driving, 5) leaky pex connectors under curb side bed - connections were way too loose 6) exterior LP leak (still to be tracked down), 7) Xantrex remote ongoing panel warning 20 issue, 8) no pressure in the water pressure tank, 9) super loud and clanky air conditioner - loose bolt found just below the impeller, 10) fridge could not get cold enough to function - sensor placed in wrong position, 11) faulty board in Maxair fan, 12) loose nuts attaching solar panels.  I'm fairly sure I've forgotten a couple more.

This is my first trailer and I appreciate that complex systems in bouncy conditions (trucks, trailers, boats, space station, etc...) are prone to shake related malfunctions but most of the problems I've had seem to be of other sources.  Upside is I'm learning the systems in combat conditions.  Downside is, I'd rather be camping.  Question to you more seasoned Oliver-ites:  Does this seem like an excessive list for a trailer that is just 6 months old?

However you cut it, this stuff is a pain in the ass but has not yet cut a trip short or forced us to loose the camper to a service center.  We love having our Oliver but wish it would be less of a ongoing maintenance issue.

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SOLD:  2021 Elite 2, Twin Bed, Lithium & Solar, 3000W Inverter

SOLD:  2022 Ford F150, 3.5L V6 EcoBoost, 4x4 Supercab, Trailer Tow Package

Posted

Wow that does seem  like a really long list, and I'm sorry to hear of that many problems.

Our 2019 EII has  had one issue with the electronic door lock (which was simply shipped as an overnight fix) by the maker of the Lock.
We also had an issue with the Dometic Awning which needed a re-adjustment, that was done at a local RV shop under Dometic's warranty.
Other than that we've been having a great experience.

We recently upgraded our batteries to the Lithionics 315GTX and are on the road for a month so I'll report back after that month long trip.

Galway Girl - Hull 505 

 

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2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) 
Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle
Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total
Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro 

Travel BLOG:  https://4-ever-hitched.com

 

IMG_5421.jpeg.c1f697a00240a9bd6729b0930bd3a4aa.jpeg

  • Moderators
Posted

Back to Claudia's third tail light lens question.

In our 2008, the lens was attached directly to the fiberglass with some type of tough marine adhesive sealant, I'm guessing probably 3m 4200. We were able to remove that with a heat gun on low, from the inside,  and a putty knife, working carefully. Unfortunately,  a couple spots were held in place with a dab of epoxy, which was much tougher.

Yours is likely held in  3m4200, or something like that. 

I know you've seen my thread on what we did, using butyl and stainless screws, but that's an experiment in progress. 

If you can get the lens out in one piece, (we couldn't,  because of the dabs of epoxy), you'll want to clean it and the surrounding fiberglass thoroughly,  and apply and seal with a compatible marine adhesive sealant. If we had gone that route, my choice would have been loctite marine fast cure, or Dow 795 (dowsil), as they're compatible with fiberglass, polycarbonate, and most plastics/acrylics, and easier to deal with and remove later than silicon or polyurethane. 

I don’t know if the lens is polycarbonate or acrylic, so I'd want a sealant compatible with both.

 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

Posted

I'm not sure I'll be able to get it out in one piece.  There's no going back now!  I've already removed the sealant on 70% of it.

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

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Posted

A new lens cost us something like $30.

It was a pain to remove, with the spots of epoxy. Ours already had hairline surface cracks, so we ordered a new one before we began (Remember, our trailer is now 14 years old.)

Like you, we're not newbies. We could have cut a new lens ourselves,  but thought it easier to order. I don't love the "new"  typeface, but, its ok . The lens was a perfect fit in our 2008

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

A new lens cost us something like $30.

It was a pain to remove, with the spots of epoxy. Ours already had hairline surface cracks, so we ordered a new one before we began (Remember, our trailer is now 14 years old.)

Like you, we're not newbies. We could have cut a new lens ourselves,  but thought it easier to order. I don't love the "new"  typeface, but, its ok . The lens was a perfect fit in our 2008

How did you cut the epoxy part of the lense?  I'm dreading having to cut it out!

2020 Toyota Tundra TRD Sport 5.7L V8 

2017 Oliver Legacy Elite II  Hull #184 ~ "ILOVHER"

  • Moderators
Posted

As an aside, ive said it before.  

I truly wish Oliver would adopt an applied light.

The third tail light has been an issue for over a decade, requiring maintenance and care . It's certainly not impossible,  but could be easier. In my opinion.

Sherry

  • Like 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

  • Moderators
Posted
8 minutes ago, csevel said:

How did you cut the epoxy part of the lense?  I'm dreading having to cut it out!

We used a heat gun, in the attic, and a metal putty knife. One inside, one outside . We didn't want to heat, or chip too much , as the fiberglass is not that thick at the edge. We took our time.

Since ours is a much older trailer, you may never see this. The application has evolved over the years .

I hope not, at least. 

We could see blobs of brown epoxy stain. Hope you don't  .

 A heat gun, in the attic, on low, was very helpful. You don't want to  take it too high, and mess up the fiberglass 

Sherry 

  • Like 1

2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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