#1290 is back in Beaverton, Oregon

[Katjo]

We have had no issues with condensation leaving the bathroom vent open and the max air vent open a tad. We also have a few Damp Rids and will run a dehumidifier if the humidity starts getting too high. We have a small humidity monitor we use to keep an eye on the humidity percentage. 

[Chukarhunter]

I too usually crack the Maxxair unit slightly and open the rear streetside window slightly to reduce condensation in cold weather.  A warning though; I learned the hard way that you should never open the curbside window when using the furnace because the furnace combustion exhaust is located immediately below the window.  I cracked the curbside window above my head once while sleeping on a cold windless night and woke up about 2:00 am with a strong smell of furnace exhaust in the trailer.   I won't make that mistake again.  I also don't crack the streetside dinette window when it is cold due to the fact it has the potential to confuse the thermostat, hence I open the rear streetside window. 

[John and Debbie]

On 11/25/2022 at 5:49 AM, Frank C said:

Note that there are some things that can trigger a false alarm on the propane monitor.   A lot of aerosol sprays like air fresheners, hair spray, etc. will trigger it.   Our propane alarm will trigger anytime I use Lysol spray anywhere in the camper.   Did your alarm trigger shortly after you used any type of cleaner or spray in the camper?

No.  I used a gas sniffer to locate the area and then confirmed the leaking fitting with soapy water.  It's the gas fitting on the Truma Varioheat furnace.  I am in the process of getting the best advice on how to tighten that brass fitting.  I am waiting.on Truma now.  It's a tight spot naturally.  

John

[John and Debbie]

On 11/22/2022 at 6:21 AM, topgun2 said:

Welcome home!

Sure enough - your trip back West was an adventure but glad you made it without any trailer problems.

Hope that your tow vehicle ran well after the "operation" in Denver.

5 degrees is reasonably impressive.  I assume that it was only one person in the Ollie overnight given the "no condensation"?

Happy early Thanksgiving!

Bill

Just me.  My wife flew out from Denver as she needed to be back at work.

[Rivernerd]

28 minutes ago, John Welte said:

I am waiting.on Truma now. 

That fitting connecting the gas line to the Truma Varioheat could not have been installed by Truma.  It must have been installed by Oliver when the Varioheat furnace was installed in the trailer, and the gas line, which was installed by Oliver during manufacture, was connected to the furnace.  If the flare nut connecting the gas line to the furnace was not properly torqued, that failure was by Oliver. 

Did Oliver service pass the buck to Truma in response to your service ticket?

[Geronimo John]

On 11/24/2022 at 3:45 PM, SeaDawg said:

Even something as simple as wiping walls with a microfiber towel, and drying it outside. 

Your comment sparked an idea.  I carry a bunch of microfiber towels.  Wonder if I could stuff several of them them along the bottom edge of the twin bed blinds?  Sort of give the moisture there a place to go (instead onto the bedding) during the really cold nights.  Then in the morning pull them out to dry outside as suggested. 

[SeaDawg]

1 hour ago, Katjo said:

We have had no issues with condensation leaving the bathroom vent open and the max air vent open a tad. We also have a few Damp Rids and will run a dehumidifier if the humidity starts getting too high. We have a small humidity monitor we use to keep an eye on the humidity percentage. 

I find that works very well, to give ventilation exhaust a path. I just leave the bath fan open a bit, not full. 

Our older Ollies don't have a heated bathroom, so propping the door open also keeps the bath warmer for night time visits in cold weather. 

[topgun2]

2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Our older Ollies don't have a heated bathroom, so propping the door open also keeps the bath warmer for night time visits in cold weather. 

🥶🥶🥶❄️❄️❄️

[John and Debbie]

3 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

That fitting connecting the gas line to the Truma Varioheat could not have been installed by Truma.  It must have been installed by Oliver when the Varioheat furnace was installed in the trailer, and the gas line, which was installed by Oliver during manufacture, was connected to the furnace.  If the flare nut connecting the gas line to the furnace was not properly torqued, that failure was by Oliver. 

Did Oliver service pass the buck to Truma in response to your service ticket?

Oliver said it wasn't a warranty issue so won't cover it.  I think your assessment is spot on.  Truma will get back to me.  Hopefully I can get the crowfoot wrenches from Harbor Freight today.  I just need to know if I back off the bottom nut or just hold it in place while I turn that flange nut 1/4 turn until the leak stops.  I think the latter on that bottom nut.  A bit frustrating.  If only I knew a good trial attorney!  😂🤣

John

[Mike and Carol]

3 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Our older Ollies don't have a heated bathroom, so propping the door open also keeps the bath warmer for night time visits in cold weather. 

Even some of those that have a vent in the bath get really cold with the door left open, especially when using an electric space heater.  Our bathroom door is open almost all the time, unless it’s being used.  Mike

[Katjo]

3 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

I find that works very well, to give ventilation exhaust a path. I just leave the bath fan open a bit, not full. 

Our older Ollies don't have a heated bathroom, so propping the door open also keeps the bath warmer for night time visits in cold weather. 

Yes!!! We keep the bathroom door open as well, we have never needed our furnace, we just use a space heater. If we don’t leave the bathroom door open that cold toilet seat is a shocker! Lol 

[Rivernerd]

1 hour ago, John Welte said:

If only I knew a good trial attorney! 

It's not me!  I was never licensed in Oregon, and am no longer licensed to practice law anywhere, having retired 5 years ago.

But, before you even consider retaining counsel, I recommend you contact Oliver's  Sales and Operations Manager Rodney Lomax.  His email address is:  rlomax@olivertraveltrailers.com.

My impression, when I met with him personally about two weeks ago, was that he has a high level of integrity, and cares very much how Oliver is perceived by its customers.  I recommend you offer the explanation found in my post above (that the gas line must have been connected to the Varioheat furnace by an Oliver tech during production, because only Oliver could have installed the gas line in the trailer) and politely ask him to intervene to get Oliver to cover the repair under warranty. 

I will be quite surprised if he doesn't get the problem solved for you, by Oliver, not Truma.

Before contacting Mr. Lomax, I would buy the necessary wrenches (it looks to me like 3/8" drive 17mm and 19mm crowfoots will work in that tight space, attached to 3/8" ratchet extensions, and controlled by 3/8" ratchets).  You may even be able to get an open-end wrench on one of them--you likely will not know until you try it.  I would then hold the "bottom nut" with one wrench while tightening the flare nut with another wrench--carefully, a little bit at a time, until the leak stopped.  This is the way brass flare nuts are commonly tightened.

If you are not comfortable with that approach, then take it to an RV service center, and ask Oliver to pay the bill.

[SeaDawg]

1 hour ago, Katjo said:

Yes!!! We keep the bathroom door open as well, we have never needed our furnace, we just use a space heater. If we don’t leave the bathroom door open that cold toilet seat is a shocker! Lol 

Camping in the 20s at night, the toilet seat is VERY cold if the door is closed, with our 2008, with zero heat in the bathroom. More concerned about frozen lines than a cold toilet seat, actually. 

We only run an electric heater on the rare occasion that we have power. The furnace on low (old school analog  thermostat) keeps us around 55 or so. 

We both sleep well at that temp. But, we both grew up in cold country. 

Everyone has a different comfort level. I'm good with good blankets or quilts. Others are different. It's all good.

[SeaDawg]

2 hours ago, John Welte said:

Oliver said it wasn't a warranty issue so won't cover it.  I think your assessment is spot on.  Truma will get back to me.  Hopefully I can get the crowfoot wrenches from Harbor Freight today.  I just need to know if I back off the bottom nut or just hold it in place while I turn that flange nut 1/4 turn until the leak stops.  I think the latter on that bottom nut.  A bit frustrating.  If only I knew a good trial attorney!  😂🤣

John

Did you call, or open a ticket online?

I've found better response and  followup with online tickets. Better paper trail, as well. You can always do both.

I'm really sorry for your issue,  but I'm sure you'll get it resolved. 

[bhncb]

7 minutes ago, Rivernerd said:

Before contacting Mr. Lomax, I would buy the necessary wrenches (it looks to me like 3/8" drive 17mm and 19mm crowfoots will work in that tight space, attached to 3/8" ratchet extensions, and controlled by 3/8" ratchets).  You may even be able to get an open-end wrench on one of them--you likely will not know until you try it.  I would then hold the "bottom nut" with one wrench while tightening the flare nut with another wrench--carefully, a little bit at a time, until the leak stopped.  This is the way brass flare nuts are commonly tightened.

Before attempting to stop the leak on your own, I would advise exhausting all attempts at getting the warranters to fulfill their obligations. By documenting the leak with your detector, you've already proven the fault is either with Trauma or Oliver's installation. Let them sort it out among themselves and recommend the appropriate course of action.

Most flair connection leaks are due to either over torquing, improper flair fabrication, or a damaged fitting. If you do get involved,  first disassemble the connection and inspect the tubing flair for uniformity and if it had been seated squarely on the mating fitting. Then, use a magnifying glass to inspect the fitting surface for any defect that could cause a leak. Hairline scratches and minute dinges are notorious for this. When reassembling, backup the furnace fitting and torque the flair nut to whatever specification Truma provides, corrected for your crow foot adapter. Then, back it off a quarter turn and torque it again.

[John and Debbie]

1 hour ago, Rivernerd said:

It's not me!  I was never licensed in Oregon, and am no longer licensed to practice law anywhere, having retired 5 years ago.

But, before you even consider retaining counsel, I recommend you contact Oliver's  Sales and Operations Manager Rodney Lomax.  His email address is:  rlomax@olivertraveltrailers.com.

My impression, when I met with him personally about two weeks ago, was that he has a high level of integrity, and cares very much how Oliver is perceived by its customers.  I recommend you offer the explanation found in my post above (that the gas line must have been connected to the Varioheat furnace by an Oliver tech during production, because only Oliver could have installed the gas line in the trailer) and politely ask him to intervene to get Oliver to cover the repair under warranty. 

I will be quite surprised if he doesn't get the problem solved for you, by Oliver, not Truma.

Before contacting Mr. Lomax, I would buy the necessary wrenches (it looks to me like 3/8" drive 17mm and 19mm crowfoots will work in that tight space, attached to 3/8" ratchet extensions, and controlled by 3/8" ratchets).  You may even be able to get an open-end wrench on one of them--you likely will not know until you try it.  I would then hold the "bottom nut" with one wrench while tightening the flare nut with another wrench--carefully, a little bit at a time, until the leak stopped.  This is the way brass flare nuts are commonly tightened.

If you are not comfortable with that approach, then take it to an RV service center, and ask Oliver to pay the bill.

"But, before you even consider retaining counsel, I recommend you contact Oliver's  Sales and Operations Manager Rodney Lomax.  His email address is:  rlomax@olivertraveltrailers.com."

Ralph, I was kidding about finding a good attorney.  I have been pleased with the quality and this is just a hiccup along the way.  I believe your assessment of who was responsible for the leaky attachment falls in Oliver's hands for the reasons you mentioned.  I did buy the Crowfoot wrenches from Harbor Freight and have the thin metric 19 mm wrench for the bottom nut.  I believe you're right about the approach of how to tighten it also.  When Truma service confirms how we both think it should be tightened I will proceed and let you know.  Thanks for your comments.  I appreciate you checking in.

John

[John and Debbie]

17 minutes ago, bhncb said:

Before attempting to stop the leak on your own, I would advise exhausting all attempts at getting the warranters to fulfill their obligations. By documenting the leak with your detector, you've already proven the fault is either with Trauma or Oliver's installation. Let them sort it out among themselves and recommend the appropriate course of action.

Most flair connection leaks are due to either over torquing, improper flair fabrication, or a damaged fitting. If you do get involved,  first disassemble the connection and inspect the tubing flair for uniformity and if it had been seated squarely on the mating fitting. Then, use a magnifying glass to inspect the fitting surface for any defect that could cause a leak. Hairline scratches and minute dinges are notorious for this. When reassembling, backup the furnace fitting and torque the flair nut to whatever specification Truma provides, corrected for your crow foot adapter. Then, back it off a quarter turn and torque it again.

That's good advice too.  That's exactly why I felt that I shouldn't be trying to fix this.  Once I start working on it, Oliver won't have any idea where the fault lays.  On the one hand it seems a simple fix now that I have the tools, but I didn't realize all the things that could go wrong with that fitting.  The camper/trailer (depending on what part of the country you live in) has only been in my possession 22 days!  Thanks very much for your comment.  I have literally spent hours trying to figure out the best approach to this.  Luckily I am not in a hurry to fix it as it's parked by the garage plugged into a 30 amp dedicated socket.

John

[John and Debbie]

1 hour ago, bhncb said:

Before attempting to stop the leak on your own, I would advise exhausting all attempts at getting the warranters to fulfill their obligations. By documenting the leak with your detector, you've already proven the fault is either with Trauma or Oliver's installation. Let them sort it out among themselves and recommend the appropriate course of action.

Most flair connection leaks are due to either over torquing, improper flair fabrication, or a damaged fitting. If you do get involved,  first disassemble the connection and inspect the tubing flair for uniformity and if it had been seated squarely on the mating fitting. Then, use a magnifying glass to inspect the fitting surface for any defect that could cause a leak. Hairline scratches and minute dinges are notorious for this. When reassembling, backup the furnace fitting and torque the flair nut to whatever specification Truma provides, corrected for your crow foot adapter. Then, back it off a quarter turn and torque it again.

I wrote to Rodney Lomax as I feel like this should be addressed by a person knowledgeable on repairs of this type.  Truma is new, but this problem is just with the flare fitting so those I am quite confident have been used for years.  I will see what he says.  Thanks for your comments.

John

[John and Debbie]

2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Did you call, or open a ticket online?

I've found better response and  followup with online tickets. Better paper trail, as well. You can always do both.

I'm really sorry for your issue,  but I'm sure you'll get it resolved. 

Thanks.  I opened a ticket online.  I like the paper trail too.  It's a high quality camper so I am confident that I can get it fixed.  I wrote to Rodney Lomax too at Rivernerd's suggestion and included comments by bhncb (something like that) where it was pointed out that these flare nuts can fail for a variety of reasons.  Hopefully it will be authorized for service here.  If I attempt to fix it and fail, OTT won't know where the fault was.  My attempted repair, OTT, or a defective flange nut.  As far as I know my camper was the first to get the Truma package.

John

[John and Debbie]

4 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

Even some of those that have a vent in the bath get really cold with the door left open, especially when using an electric space heater.  Our bathroom door is open almost all the time, unless it’s being used.  Mike

How do you keep it open?  Mine has a 1/2 inch square clear soft bumper at the bottom.

John

[Katjo]

2 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

Camping in the 20s at night, the toilet seat is VERY cold if the door is closed, with our 2008, with zero heat in the bathroom. More concerned about frozen lines than a cold toilet seat, actually. 

We only run an electric heater on the rare occasion that we have power. The furnace on low (old school analog  thermostat) keeps us around 55 or so. 

We both sleep well at that temp. But, we both grew up in cold country. 

Everyone has a different comfort level. I'm good with good blankets or quilts. Others are different. It's all good.

We’ve never camped in that low of temperature, 55 would still be cold to me! I’m like Goldilocks I like it just right, not too hot and not too cold!😂

[Hokieman]

51 minutes ago, John Welte said:

How do you keep it open? 

You can keep it open with magnets, a common mod.  How to Bathroom Door Hold Open

I used a Nite Ize Steely Ball that I had on hand, it works great.   Nite Ize Steely Ball

We also keep our bath door wide open most of the time, because we keep our dog water bowl on the shower floor.  Our Labrador Retrievers are sloppy drinkers, makes cleanup easier.   If we want the bath door nearly closed, but still cracked for ventilation, we turn the latch to lock, it keeps it from closing.   If the furnace is running, this gives the heat flow an outlet into the main cabin.  I was told  the newer models have done away with the latch, and have stronger magnet strips to keep the door closed. 

[Mike and Carol]

8 hours ago, John Welte said:

How do you keep it open?  Mine has a 1/2 inch square clear soft bumper at the bottom.

Magnets!  One is on the lower outside corner of the door, the other is inside under the dinette seat.  Just enough to keep it open and not enough to require much force to close.  We’ve had ours a number of years, cheap purchase from Amazon that has worked well.  Hokieman’s link above explains.  Mike