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Starlink Installation Tips


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After looking at the forum I found a couple posts on installing Starlink.
I decided to add another to the mix.

Pre-Installation Starlink Test: 

In testing the system before a full installation I found that the Starlink Router could be plugged into curb side Oliver outlets and then the router could sit on it's back on top of the tire under the wheel well.  This provided 58dB of signal outside the trailer and about 78 dB inside.  So if you don't want to hassle with mounting the router, drilling holes etc.  you could just find a weatherproof box/cover for the router and leave it outside.
(Signal strength and bandwidth drops a bit but not really very much.)

Read on if you want to do a more complete installation.

1) Roof Mount: (This is just a way to mount the antenna up high.)

I bought the Starlink short roof mount adapter.  
Our hull 505 had the Dometic Awning, so I could not simply bolt directly to the mounting bolts from the awning brackets as they are at odd angles.   I used 1/2" long x 3/8" diameter Self Tapping Bolts.
I drilled holes, then drove in the self tappers  into the mounting rail making sure to use washer/spacers to keep it from penetrating the back of the awning box. I used blue loctite on those tapped bolts.

This mounting position will be perfect in those cases where we have clear sky and want the antenna up high.
I'll continue to carry the ground mount for portability uses.
I don't plan to drive with the antenna on the roof.


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2) Mounting the Router - In the Rear Attic and Running Cable into Basement

I mounted the router inside the rear attic cabinet.  
It's held in place by a simple orange strapping tie that feeds through a hook-eye behind the router.IMG_1001.thumb.jpeg.f4e1c0877a11e5bab0908161afd689e6.jpeg
This is a good spot for the Router as it's close to a 110V outlet, and easy to run the cables under and behind the back of the cabinet over to the right side then down to the basement area.

To make the cable run to the basement I needed to remove a couple panels:

(NOTE: DISCONNECT FROM CURB POWER and make sure Inverters are OFFLINE  BEFORE ATTEMPTING)

1) Street side attic panel (2 bolts)  tip it down flat to gain access to the street side rear of the cabinet.  
2) Basement rear dress panel covering the back the basement.  (2 phillips screws).

For my installation I ran the cable beside the existing AC drain tube on the street side rear of the trailer.
I pushed the cable snake down beside that tube, and then at the bottom in the basement attached and I pulled up a length of pull line from the basement area.

I attached the pull line to the end of the Starlink cable (the end that plugs onto the dish) and then pulled the Starlink Cable down into the basement.  

I tested the Starlink at this point before cutting the cable to get a baseline of speed for comparison after I cut the cable and attached RJ45 network connectors and the thru hull port.

After testing I looped up about 3 extra feet of cable in the basement and then cut the cable for installation of the RJ 45 connector that would feed the back side of the thru-hull RJ45 plug.

3) Install new RJ45 male plug on cable in basement:

Pro TIP: Use metal field termination plugs for the Starlink cable cut ends if possible/
Trying to use the typical plastic RJ45 connectors is a real hassle as the conductors in the starlink cable which stranded and thicker than normal.
I spent well over an hour trying to get my shielded/plastic RJ45's to work.  I finally said let's try a real metal coupler.
In the picture below is the plug I bought from "Cable Matters" on Amazon  $6 ea.  
They feature a clearly labeled punch down block, a threaded strain relief clamp and copper foil tape that is used to wrap the ground (or drain) wire around the cable shaft where it enters the connector.  
This is the connector I used on the inside of the trailer connecting the Router to the Thru Hull plug.

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4) Install the Thru Hull Connector and connector for Cable to Dish

I purchased an L-Com IP68 (waterproof) through hull connector specifically designed for shielded PoE Connections.
I also purchased a matching L-Com connector kit for the cut end of the Starlink cable.  This matching plug screws onto the outside connector
for a waterproof sealed connection.

I placed the connector mid line between the two existing connectors leaving both the Cable and Satellite COAX's in place.
The new bulkhead coupler fits exactly between those two connectors, but I would suggest shifting UP 3/16" from center to allow the bottom door to fully open. (It's the 'satellite coax' in my case which I never use.)

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Hope this is useful to any new Starlink owners.

 

More detail is in our blog here:

Adding Starlink to Galway Girl

 

 

Craig 
Hull 505 - Galway Girl

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2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) 
Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle
Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total
Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro 

Travel BLOG:  https://4-ever-hitched.com

 

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Craig,

Excellent attention to detail in these instructions. 
Thank you!

Patriot🇺🇸

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2020 OLEII - Hull #634 aka-  “XPLOR” 

2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat Ultimate Tremor aka- Beast

 

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Very nice. We’re considering starlink since we are usually camped in places without much cell coverage, but we almost never have shore power. I’m hoping that starlink eventually has a 12v option. We have plenty of solar/battery to run the inverter…I just don’t like to. Specifically, I don’t like having to remember to turn it off at night. 🙂

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MaryBeth
Boulder, CO

2022 Elite II #953
TV: 2021 Ford Expedition Max Platinum, Max Tow Package

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Great info- I'm still considering StarLink- I normally work from home, so thinking about having something reliable for possibly working from the road.  Good to know it can be used without any fancy "installation".

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2023 Oliver Legacy Elite II, Hull #1405, "Rocinante"  TV: 2022 F-150 5.0 V8 4x4

States Visited MapMap of Provinces I Visited

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$150 for the version for RV's.  More for the fully mobile version.

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2019 Elite II (Hull 505 - Galway Girl - August 7, 2019 Delivery) 
Tow Vehicle: 2021 F350 King Ranch, FX4, MaxTow Package, 10 Speed, 3.55 Rear Axle
Batteries Upgrade: Dual 315GTX Lithionics Lithiums - 630AH Total
Inverter/Charger: Xantrex 2000Pro 

Travel BLOG:  https://4-ever-hitched.com

 

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On 6/8/2023 at 8:06 AM, VBistro said:

Very nice. We’re considering starlink since we are usually camped in places without much cell coverage, but we almost never have shore power. I’m hoping that starlink eventually has a 12v option. We have plenty of solar/battery to run the inverter…I just don’t like to. Specifically, I don’t like having to remember to turn it off at night. 🙂

It's odd that even Starlink Mobility (originally marketed as Starlink for RV) doesn't have a factory 12v DC option. The aftermarket has it covered though.  The Everlanders YouTube channel shows some ways to convert Starlink 120v AC power supply to run on 12v DC without using an inverter. The easiest would be to purchase a Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply from Boondocker and then use your own 12v DC router instead of the Starlink unit.  Converting the Starlink router to 12v requires opening the case and soldering connections.  

We plan to convert our Starlink to 12v DC power, and to flat mount the dish on our tow vehicle. We'll park the TV close enough to the trailer for the WiFi to connect.  No setup required except parking the TV where it has a clear view of the sky. We haven't yet done this conversion, but we'll post again when there's something to report.  

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Steve H & Mary Allyn W

San Antonio, TX

2022 LE II Hull #969 "Un Œuf", 2021 MB Sprinter 3500 "Polly", 2016 GMC Canyon 2.8L diesel "Max"

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2 hours ago, DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI said:

I wonder what are you Oliver owners' impressions of service using Starlink in East and Midwest US? Thanks!

 

Can't speak for East/Midwest US - but, FYI; Starlink is the "BOMB" in the Rockies...  just say'n

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Art, Diane, Oscar & Magnus (double-Aaarrf!)

  • 2022 TUNDRA w/Airlift Load Lifter 5000 kit/2017 LE II; Hull #226 "Casablanca", 12VDC Starlink kit, 3x Battle Borns; Victron Cerbo GX, SmartShunt, MPPT Solar Controller, & DC-DC Charger; HAM call-sign:  W0ABX
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