Starlink Installation Tips

[Galway Girl]

After looking at the forum I found a couple posts on installing Starlink.
I decided to add another to the mix.

Pre-Installation Starlink Test: 

In testing the system before a full installation I found that the Starlink Router could be plugged into curb side Oliver outlets and then the router could sit on it's back on top of the tire under the wheel well.  This provided 58dB of signal outside the trailer and about 78 dB inside.  So if you don't want to hassle with mounting the router, drilling holes etc.  you could just find a weatherproof box/cover for the router and leave it outside.
(Signal strength and bandwidth drops a bit but not really very much.)

Read on if you want to do a more complete installation.

1) Roof Mount: (This is just a way to mount the antenna up high.)

I bought the Starlink short roof mount adapter.  
Our hull 505 had the Dometic Awning, so I could not simply bolt directly to the mounting bolts from the awning brackets as they are at odd angles.   I used 1/2" long x 3/8" diameter Self Tapping Bolts.
I drilled holes, then drove in the self tappers  into the mounting rail making sure to use washer/spacers to keep it from penetrating the back of the awning box. I used blue loctite on those tapped bolts.

This mounting position will be perfect in those cases where we have clear sky and want the antenna up high.
I'll continue to carry the ground mount for portability uses.
I don't plan to drive with the antenna on the roof.

 

2) Mounting the Router - In the Rear Attic and Running Cable into Basement

I mounted the router inside the rear attic cabinet.  
It's held in place by a simple orange strapping tie that feeds through a hook-eye behind the router.
This is a good spot for the Router as it's close to a 110V outlet, and easy to run the cables under and behind the back of the cabinet over to the right side then down to the basement area.

To make the cable run to the basement I needed to remove a couple panels:

(NOTE: DISCONNECT FROM CURB POWER and make sure Inverters are OFFLINE  BEFORE ATTEMPTING)

1) Street side attic panel (2 bolts)  tip it down flat to gain access to the street side rear of the cabinet.  
2) Basement rear dress panel covering the back the basement.  (2 phillips screws).

For my installation I ran the cable beside the existing AC drain tube on the street side rear of the trailer.
I pushed the cable snake down beside that tube, and then at the bottom in the basement attached and I pulled up a length of pull line from the basement area.

I attached the pull line to the end of the Starlink cable (the end that plugs onto the dish) and then pulled the Starlink Cable down into the basement.  

I tested the Starlink at this point before cutting the cable to get a baseline of speed for comparison after I cut the cable and attached RJ45 network connectors and the thru hull port.

After testing I looped up about 3 extra feet of cable in the basement and then cut the cable for installation of the RJ 45 connector that would feed the back side of the thru-hull RJ45 plug.

3) Install new RJ45 male plug on cable in basement:

Pro TIP: Use metal field termination plugs for the Starlink cable cut ends if possible/
Trying to use the typical plastic RJ45 connectors is a real hassle as the conductors in the starlink cable which stranded and thicker than normal.
I spent well over an hour trying to get my shielded/plastic RJ45's to work.  I finally said let's try a real metal coupler.
In the picture below is the plug I bought from "Cable Matters" on Amazon  $6 ea.  
They feature a clearly labeled punch down block, a threaded strain relief clamp and copper foil tape that is used to wrap the ground (or drain) wire around the cable shaft where it enters the connector.  
This is the connector I used on the inside of the trailer connecting the Router to the Thru Hull plug.

4) Install the Thru Hull Connector and connector for Cable to Dish

I purchased an L-Com IP68 (waterproof) through hull connector specifically designed for shielded PoE Connections.
I also purchased a matching L-Com connector kit for the cut end of the Starlink cable.  This matching plug screws onto the outside connector
for a waterproof sealed connection.

I placed the connector mid line between the two existing connectors leaving both the Cable and Satellite COAX's in place.
The new bulkhead coupler fits exactly between those two connectors, but I would suggest shifting UP 3/16" from center to allow the bottom door to fully open. (It's the 'satellite coax' in my case which I never use.)

Hope this is useful to any new Starlink owners.

 

More detail is in our blog here:

Adding Starlink to Galway Girl

 

 

Craig 
Hull 505 - Galway Girl

[Patriot]

Craig,

Excellent attention to detail in these instructions. 
Thank you!

Patriot🇺🇸

[VBistro]

Very nice. We’re considering starlink since we are usually camped in places without much cell coverage, but we almost never have shore power. I’m hoping that starlink eventually has a 12v option. We have plenty of solar/battery to run the inverter…I just don’t like to. Specifically, I don’t like having to remember to turn it off at night. 🙂

[shhQuiet]

Great info- I'm still considering StarLink- I normally work from home, so thinking about having something reliable for possibly working from the road.  Good to know it can be used without any fancy "installation".

[Patriot]

@Galway Girl

Did I read correctly that the Starlink subscription is $120 per month?

Patriot🇺🇸
 

[Galway Girl]

$150 for the version for RV's.  More for the fully mobile version.

[Steve and MA]

On 6/8/2023 at 8:06 AM, VBistro said:

Very nice. We’re considering starlink since we are usually camped in places without much cell coverage, but we almost never have shore power. I’m hoping that starlink eventually has a 12v option. We have plenty of solar/battery to run the inverter…I just don’t like to. Specifically, I don’t like having to remember to turn it off at night. 🙂

It's odd that even Starlink Mobility (originally marketed as Starlink for RV) doesn't have a factory 12v DC option. The aftermarket has it covered though.  The Everlanders YouTube channel shows some ways to convert Starlink 120v AC power supply to run on 12v DC without using an inverter. The easiest would be to purchase a Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply from Boondocker and then use your own 12v DC router instead of the Starlink unit.  Converting the Starlink router to 12v requires opening the case and soldering connections.  

We plan to convert our Starlink to 12v DC power, and to flat mount the dish on our tow vehicle. We'll park the TV close enough to the trailer for the WiFi to connect.  No setup required except parking the TV where it has a clear view of the sky. We haven't yet done this conversion, but we'll post again when there's something to report.  

[DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI]

While out west earlier this spring I saw a lot of vans running Starlink. I wonder what are you Oliver owners' impressions of service using Starlink in East and Midwest US? Thanks!

 

[MAX Burner]

2 hours ago, DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI said:

I wonder what are you Oliver owners' impressions of service using Starlink in East and Midwest US? Thanks!

 

Can't speak for East/Midwest US - but, FYI; Starlink is the "BOMB" in the Rockies...  just say'n

[Boudicca908]

Thanks for the great instructions!

I'm hoping that the price will come down....  

[Mark and Lorraine]

Thanks! Great details which will save me lots of time!

[Boudicca908]

On 6/12/2023 at 9:53 AM, Steve and MA said:

We plan to convert our Starlink to 12v DC power, and to flat mount the dish on our tow vehicle. We'll park the TV close enough to the trailer for the WiFi to connect.  No setup required except parking the TV where it has a clear view of the sky. We haven't yet done this conversion, but we'll post again when there's something to report.  

I'm wondering if you have done this yet? I'm considering Starlink and there are 2 boondockers with me who are both running Starlink. At least one of them has switched to 12v (he has switched nearly everything in his rig to 12v, smartly). It does seem surprising that Starlink still doesn't offer 12v options for their Roam package -- especially since they are charging more for it, and the cost to offer the option would seem to be fairly small. 

[Galway Girl]

Starlink router and antenna (version 2) draw 60-70 watts. Don’t know about newer versions.

Since we have 640ah lithium’s so for us we just turn on the inverter .  
 

I could see that 12v direct could help a bit on energy usage.  Our 2019 has a dc tv .

[Half Fast Hugo]

Someone posted this in another thread: https://www.trioflatmount.com/shop/p/gen3-12vconversion

I ordered one to give it a shot since it plugs into the Starlink router and you either hardwire it or wire on a 12v cigarette lighter plug. Pricey little bugger but I really hate soldering electronic stuff and it seemed more reasonable than other options.

[ZLarryb]

I am using the trio flatmount converter and am very happy with it.  Starlink has a mount for the router that easily screws into the upper cabinet and it snaps right in.  It has held the router during travel with no issues.

[MAX Burner]

For SL users and potential users - there's literally a dozen or so ways to convert SL to a 12vDC kit.  Pick one that meets your camping style and you're comfortable with - you'll never look back.  We converted ours earlier this year and still have the capability of using the original SL router and cable should we need to use it at home or elsewhere on 120vAC - just left us with another option.  We didn't have to take any OEM equipment apart, except for cutting the ethernet cable and installing CAT V plugs on either end (piece of cake, BTW).

There's definitely a power saving advantage by converting over to DC - we figured 20 - 25% less power than running it on AC.

FYI: this message is coming to you via our kit running directly off our Battle Borns from the middle of TN somewhere!

Roll-On, regardless...

Edited May 11 by MAX Burner
...added clarifying info

[Half Fast Hugo]

21 minutes ago, MAX Burner said:

FYI: this message is coming to you via our kit running directly off our Battle Borns from the middle of TN somewhere!

Roll-On, regardless...

That's awesome! We're packed up and ready to head south in the morning. This will be are first test of the SL on the road but I'm sure we'll have no issues. See ya!

[MAX Burner]

3 hours ago, Half Fast Hugo said:

Pricey little bugger

Ouch!  Concur...100%

[Boudicca908]

10 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

We converted ours earlier this year

I’ve watched a few YouTube videos about conversion. I am not inclined to try to take apart the unit, but I have heard examples of people using 3rd party routers and boosters, to make the switch. 
Where did you mount your router, wiring and how did you exit the OTT to reach your unit? 

 

 

[MAX Burner]

3 hours ago, Boudicca908 said:

Where did you mount your router, wiring and how did you exit the OTT to reach your unit? 

Apologies in advance for those who already read our post on the subject, but here's a "Reader's Digest" version of what our conversion finally ended up like...

1. We mounted the POE injector (converts 12vDC to 44vDC for dishy), DC-to-DC converter, 3rd party mini travel router, and wiring in the closet (the second DC-DC converter is for the Camera):

2.  Power Switch for SL kit and Security Camera located on bulkhead above closet door:

3.  Communication (Ethernet) Cable penetrates closet bulkhead (adjacent to bathroom), drops down under vanity, exits hull via a Blue Seas Clam along with DC-DC charger cables and OEM 12vDC cable (pls. ignore the knucklehead in the pic):

4.  The SL Cable is routed forward into the "dog house" and exits via a "weather proof" (term use lightly) 4-pair connector:

NOTE:   Normally, we would mount the dishy on top of the flag pole which you'll see the mount for above, but today we've been informed by Ranger Rick that flood warnings exist on the TN River and we may need to "Exit Stage Right (like Yogi would say)" rather quickly, so dishy is mounted in it's travel box and placed on a picnic table for a rapid departure, if needed:

This post is coming to you via our 12vDC Dishy kit, FYI...  Good luck with your's!  Feel free to PM us anytime regarding details not covered in this or our previous posting on the project.

Cheers!