Upgraded Audio/Visual System

[SeaDawg]

6 hours ago, jd1923 said:

SeaDawg, delete those old dusty TVs, clean up your space visually and save about 20 lbs. in the rear of your Ollies! And btw, thanks for taking interest in my installation thread, even though TV A/V is not your thing!

Your installation is clean, and pretty. And, I love reading about well-planned, well-executed mods, like yours.

Our older (2008/2009) trailers had the tiny Jensen 12v TV, in the corner, silver frame. So old, the system has an integrated cd player (@!!), but no Bluetooth, etc. It doesn't fold up. 

When it dies, we'll probaby take it out, and patch the holes, tuck the wiring up in the attic,  case our daughter wants to use it someday. Lots of other projects in the meantime. 

Do relocate the exit stickers. 

Here's our tiny "black eye."

 

 

 

[Steve Morris]

Nice work, John! Too bad that you couldn't find a 12V monitor, but I'm not sure they make such a thing.

We've only had our trailer since March, and have used the TV maybe three times, and only for streaming. I added a cellular-embedded router and an Apple TV, so I don't need a "smart TV". A monitor would work except for when we eventually get somewhere without cellular service and I can use the omni-directional antenna for terrestrial TV. At some point I'd like to swap for a 12V TV, and then I'll convert the Apple TV to 12V, too.

I've only used the inbuilt audio a couple of times, but it sounds like low-end car audio to me. I've used the TV's speaker when streaming. I did notice that the speaker over the closet booms a lot, using the entire closet as a speaker box. I'd imagine that a foam speaker cover over the back would do wonders for the mediocre sound. I'm using a Sonos Move for streaming audio, inside and out. It has almost too much bass for that big reflective interior. It's probably a good thing that my hearing isn't as discerning as it used to be...

One of our better financial moves was subscribing to XM Radio back when they had a lifetime subscription for $485. We got two licenses in 2008, and have transferred them to each new vehicle, plus using the streaming app on the phone. As of now, we are at an average subscription cost of $2.69/month and dropping!

(The router is still using the stub antennas, and not permanently mounted. I have an external antenna, but haven't yet convinced myself to drill a big hole in the roof!)

 

[jd1923]

Thanks Steve, for your addition. Wish I had your SiriusXM package! I never thought I would want Sat radio, before traveling in the west. Our local FM stations fade quickly, and we have to seek 2-3 different stations, just driving from home to the Phoenix valley. 

Yes, you need a TV to include a TV tuner for broadcast TV and a decent antenna, roof-mount will have greater range. We can hardly get broadcast stations up at elevation. At home they bounce the Phoenix digital broadcasts off Mingus Mountain and we get about 30 stations, all but NBC. Camping we can get a few stations or none.

I wasn't interested in 12V DC A/V components, since the Blu-ray, Dish Wally and most require 120V AC. I never fear running the inverter all day & night with this solar/battery setup. My last RV had less capacity (315 AH AGM and 1800W inverter), a system I installed, and it was always adequate to play music for hours, watch TV at night, and make coffee, run microwave in the morning, before the sun is strong. Out here in the SW you can count on sun 9/10 days!

It amazes me, the pictures I've seen, how newer OTT models have a 12V DC sub-panel in the attic. Love to know what all the 12V fuses connect to. Ours does not have this sub-panel. And what a funky install, with each wire running through its own separate hole in the panel! My side panel removes easily, and I mounted the TV monitor power supply behind the panel.

[rich.dev]

5 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

how newer OTT models have a 12V DC sub-panel in the attic.

We have a 2023 and there’s no DC sub-panel in the attic.

[jd1923]

15 minutes ago, rich.dev said:

We have a 2023 and there’s no DC sub-panel in the attic.

Must be for specific options. Steve, or somebody with such panel, please let us know how the fuses are marked. Thanks

[Steve Morris]

I added the funky panel. 🤣

It is fed from the 12ga wire that used to go to the 12V cigarette outlet. Then it feeds the outlet, Sirocco fan, Alexa Echo Dot, and Pepwave router. It will later also feed the second fan and Apple TV. 
 

I ran the wires through the holes for the most direct route to the panel. Each has an insulation sleeve on it where it passes through the panel, and all are gathered in a bundle and wrapped in a wire wrap behind the panel. It is actually a much cleaner install behind there than any of Oliver’s jumble of wires. 😉

[John E Davies]

8 hours ago, jd1923 said:

 

It amazes me, the pictures I've seen, how newer OTT models have a 12V DC sub-panel in the attic. Love to know what all the 12V fuses connect to. Ours does not have this sub-panel. 

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5405-how-to-disconnect-the-attic-blue-sea-circuit-breaker-backlight-10-milliamp-phantom-drain/

John Davies

Spokane WA

[Frank C]

14 hours ago, jd1923 said:

It amazes me, the pictures I've seen, how newer OTT models have a 12V DC sub-panel in the attic. Love to know what all the 12V fuses connect to. Ours does not have this sub-panel. 

Our 2019 Elite II has that 12v fuse panel in the attic next to the EMS remote display.  Pics attached of that plus the one under the dinette.  The cover of the attic fuse panel also has a handy fuse puller included.  There are a lot of variations in Oliver trailer builds over the years due to component substitutions, options and production line deviations/on the fly changes.  We’ve joked on this forum that there probably aren’t any two identical Oliver trailers, especially in the early days of the first couple hundred trailers.  

[jd1923]

13 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

I added the funky panel. 🤣 It is fed from the 12ga wire that used to go to the 12V cigarette outlet... It is actually a much cleaner install behind there than any of Oliver’s jumble of wires. 😉

Now that I understand this panel is an owner's addition, it's really less funky, and instead it's actually very good work! In a manufacturing environment, it would be odd to work it that way. They would want a full assembly to mount quickly, and I agree yours is a cleaner install. Good use of the 12V outlet feed, since you have multiple 12V DC appliances. I have these cigarette lighter style outlets in the OTT and my TV and do not use any of them. I prefer the ones that have the USB built in. My A/V installation is all 120V AC, but I do plan to disconnect the same 12V DC source to connect a bedroom fan at some point. Thanks Steve.

[Steve Morris]

1 minute ago, jd1923 said:

it's really less funky, and instead it's actually very good work!

Nice save! 😂

[Steve Morris]

6 minutes ago, jd1923 said:

I prefer the ones that have the USB built in

Over the years, I've had too many USB style outlets fail, and of course USB specs change (now going to USB-C as standard.) So I use the simple 12V cigarette outlet, albeit a good quality one from Blue Sea, and then stick whatever style adapter needed into that. My external 12V outlets will be Andersen Power Pole style.

 

[jd1923]

2 hours ago, Frank C said:

Our 2019 Elite II has that 12v fuse panel in the attic next to the EMS remote display... There are a lot of variations in Oliver trailer builds over the years due to component substitutions, options and production line deviations/on the fly changes.  We’ve joked on this forum that there probably aren’t any two identical Oliver trailers, especially in the early days of the first couple hundred trailers.

Frank, thank you for sharing your pictures. You would think the opposite would be true, where early in production they would have variations and later they would standardize on best practices. Love the pic John shared. I mentioned in another thread that this model is the "lost in Space" version!

I had a feeling that those of you with power awnings would have this subpanel, which makes sense requiring the two 20A DC circuits. We old hulls have the manual Fiamma awning, manual as in will hardly ever use it. Dual power awnings - priceless!

[jd1923]

12 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

... and of course USB specs change (now going to USB-C as standard.) 

The Samsung TV Monitor installed here has USB-C port to connect a laptop, for charging and likely for many other uses.

[MAX Burner]

16 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

My external 12V outlets will be Andersen Power Pole style.

That's the way to go, IMO.  The Anderson Power Pole system is pretty tough to beat - its "bombproof".

[SeaDawg]

6 hours ago, jd1923 said:

had a feeling that those of you with power awnings would have this subpanel, which makes sense requiring the two 20A DC circuits. We old hulls have the manual Fiamma awning, manual as in will hardly ever use it. Dual power awnings - priceless!

We use our manual awning all the time. I'd personally rather have a manual awning than power. It's so small (elite I) it's minutes to roll it up, or out.

We also run on agm batteries, 2 x 105, so, we need to conserve power ,and a power awning wouldn't work for us, in that regard, since we rarely camp with hookups .

 

[rich.dev]

1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:

We use our manual awning all the time. I'd personally rather have a manual awning than power.

Agreed 100%, wish we had the option of a manual awning! 

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, SeaDawg said:

We use our manual awning all the time. I'd personally rather have a manual awning than power.

Same here.  A manual awning offers simplicity and reliability.

[jd1923]

Anyone of you wanna trade a powered model, for my Fiamma, done in a heartbeat! Perhaps easy on the baby Ollie, but what a pain to unwind. It's coming down, better duck. Can't have your entrance door open, like the newer model. Then mount the side supports, crank them out left and right, role it out some more, lengthen the supports again. No such thing as opening it up just a few feet, the feature I like most about modern power awnings. To each their own, yeah.

This has been fun, and I appreciate everybody's + reactions and posts. Time for me to add my last installation post...

[jd1923]

The final need is to fold up the TV, to the attic ceiling, for unobstructed view out of the rear window. Some of you may think my final install is not "professional" but it's easy, clean, and keeps the TV snug, just 2" from the ceiling. BTW, on our maiden voyage we drove 220 miles, 50 miles on dirt, much of it washboard, with the TV in the down position, and all was fine! This TV install can travel in the up or down position, either way no problem.

I installed two hardware store 3/8" eyelets about 3" left and right of the TV, at the front of the attic (should have gone 4", so that the metal of the bungee would not touch the TV, to fix I will add sleeve). Marking the correct spot, left and right is not trivial, with all the Oliver curves. Then drill the 3/8" holes and mount with 2" fender washers, above and below the ceiling. Then I needed to find the right strap, bungee, cable or something. Shopping for this was not easy. I did so many Amazon searches. It had to be HD (strong and taught) and I was wanting white. I settled on Blue, which is what my wife calls her accent color for our Oliver! I ended up with this: Amazon.com: Extreme Max 3006.2786 BoatTector High-Strength Line Snubber & Storage Bungee, Value 2-Pack - 24" with Compact Hooks, Blue : Tools & Home Improvement

The blue bungee is a nice match in color to the bolsters we bought for our evening TV watching: https://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Sequoia-Yoga-Bolster-Pillow/dp/B092DYYR5W/ref=sr_1

Without measuring, I would think the OTT factory installed TV sits a good 3-4 inches lower. The pics would look better if we were not also cleaning our windows and blinds, and the lovely bedspreads from the prior owner!

[jd1923]

Lastly, what about the remotes? There are always too many, right? I mounted a couple of parts bins, I had on-hand. One bin for the Oliver installed remotes, and one bin for the newly installed components (TV, Blu-ray, Dish Wally, and soundbar remotes). The TV remote will change volume on the soundbar, pause a DVD and more.

OMG, even our Rummikub game has the perfect place, snug fit top of the nightstand drawer! Best wishes y'all. We love this OTT Forum. You guys are great!

[MAX Burner]

On 7/21/2023 at 3:11 PM, SeaDawg said:

Any light in the bedroom is disturbing to me.

My wife concurs 100%.  The TV power cord is always removed as part of our pre-slumber checklist to eliminate the illumination of a bothersome red LED.  It's amazing how many LEDs are everywhere in our OTT when it officially "Lights-Out".  Ugh.

[jd1923]

Thanks Art. We haven't slept in our new Oliver more than a few nights yet, but in past RVs I've worked to install small patches over some of those annoying little LEDs. Please let Diane know the monitor in our new system has no LED light, when it's off, it's lights out and dark!

[jd1923]

UPDATE on our A/V system installation - Back in June 2023 when we purchased our Oliver, I thought the Winegard Dish Sat setup was a nice option to have. We got a Wally receiver and used it on one spring trip to Utah. We soon realized the monthly cost of the Dish Network, even paying a month at a time, was too much money for the value. I would prefer an antenna to view occasional local broadcast TV when traveling without monthly service fees.

I just removed the Winegard satellite dish. I wished OTT had never installed this system for all the related repair work, though I will reuse the same coax feed for a new antenna.

After some antenna research, I went with the Winegard Rayzar Automatic Antenna RZ-8500. It has the advantage of being self-adjusting, automatically turning the antenna for the strongest signals. These are expensive at over $400. Months ago, after looking on-and-off, I found a new unit from a private eBay Seller for $250 shipped!

Living in Prescott AZ, broadcast HDTV is bounced off Mingus Mountain (think Jerome AZ) to the north of us, from Phoenix 100 miles to our south. Also, our Oliver is now parked behind our garage blocking line-of-sight to the repeater. However, the Rayzar antenna still found 13 frequencies, with subchannels connecting to 30 stations. This antenna works very well. I did not want a directional antenna that would need manual adjustments.

It may appear that I’m removing one eyesore for another, but the new antenna is much smaller. The Dish Sat was a monster at 13” tall with 20” diameter. The Rayzar is half the height at 6 ½” and 15” round (notice screw holes from old unit in the picture). It is far less noticeable on the Oliver roof, just 2” taller than the solar panels and hardly noticeable from ground level. In the picture nothing is mounted, until all the fiberglass work is completed. The new antenna will be held tight with 3M 4950 VHB tape, no screws!

[jd1923]

On 7/24/2023 at 9:35 AM, Steve Morris said:

A monitor would work except for when we eventually get somewhere without cellular service and I can use the omni-directional antenna for terrestrial TV...

I reworked all the "Attic" wiring while adding this antenna. Check out the first picture. It's not funny! The Oliver family should not employ anybody who cannot cut a square rectangular opening! They also used a 1 1/4" hole saw for the 12V outlet that requires a 1 1/8" opening. And look at how the two screw holes at the bottom of the panel are lined up.

I used the original hole for the new Winegard antenna controller and drilled a new hole to install the dual USB port. The simple power strip and an HDMI switch (choose between TV tuner or Blu-ray player) are both mounted with VHB tape.

Our WHITE and amazing Samsung 32" high-rez monitor, its screen only 1/2" thick, has no internal TV tuner. I added a remote digital HDTV tuner. You cannot see this in the install since it is behind the panel. It's powered by USB and HDMI is the output. Simple, inexpensive and works well: https://a.co/d/7YBYzxw

Check out all the wires in the bottom RH corner of the second picture. The TV tuner, the TV power supply and all extra cabling is behind the panel. The Winegard controller has cable inputs and output behind the panel too. The cable TV input you see in front is extra if needed. I should have taken a picture behind the panel.

Edited December 1 by jd1923

[John Dorrer]

On 7/18/2023 at 12:54 AM, jd1923 said:

Being confident, the old has to go... Next day, I just pulled everything old!

Request for those reading... How should I fill these holes?
I'm an engineer/mechanic, not an artist or autobody/paint guy. I want to be able to later finish the fiberglass and polish the corner, without evidence of original installation (finish work TBD by a professional).

Fiberglass work by Oliver or a marine shop that does fiberglass repairs.