Permanent solar panel guard

[Ollie-Haus]

In the interest of making the solar panels much more cover friendly, as in Calmark storage cover, and to just add a touch of finished look to the panels to match the color of the Oliver, I fabricated a permanent guard from 1-1/4" PVC pipe. It's notched out such that it just sits over the perimeter of the solar panels and fastens through the panel frames in 6 locations. No need to remove, but if the panels need service it takes about 10 minutes to remove in one assembled piece. I'm sure not everyone's cup of tea but I think it serves the purpose well which it's intended.

I made a straight jig out of a 12"x60" piece of plywood with two 2x4's attached to hold the pvc rigid. I used a guide on the side of a circular saw to cut the pvc into the needed profile.

[Patriot]

Very well done! A very clean looking install! 👍🏻👍🏻

 

[jd1923]

7 hours ago, Ollie-Haus said:

In the interest of making the solar panels much more cover friendly...

Excellent work Chris - Wow!
It also looks way better than the raw edge of the panels too. 🙂

[MAX Burner]

@Ollie-Haus : Looks great, brother!  Need to add this to the "To Do" list, ha!  Awesome job.  Thanks for posting...

[John E Davies]

15 hours ago, Ollie-Haus said:

 

 

Very cool mod, thanks for posting! What kind of pipe did you use? If it is off-the-shelf box store Schedule 80 stuff, you should treat the parts annually with a preservative like 303 Protectant. If you don't, the frame may shatter in a few years from a wayward tree branch. Depending of course on the long term sun exposure level.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/18339/which-type-of-pvc-for-exposed-outdoor-use

For those who may to know: ...  http://www.harrisonplastic.com/pvcschedule40-80specs.html

Sorry, this is off topic... What CAD program do you use to generate those dimensional images? Can it print reverse (black on white)? I am looking for a newbie friendly, SIMPLE 2D software that is iMac compatible (without using a Windoze emulator) and that won't cost thousands per year to lease. Any suggestions? I have a new Sherilne 3 x 17" lathe and mill, and need to draw stuff that will look professional, but all the work will  be hand turned and milled. No stepper motors for me 😉 . NO to this:

Thanks,

john Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

[Ollie-Haus]

4 hours ago, John E Davies said:

 

Very cool mod, thanks for posting! What kind of pipe did you use? If it is off-the-shelf box store Schedule 80 stuff, you should treat the parts annually with a preservative like 303 Protectant. If you don't, the frame may shatter in a few years from a wayward tree branch. Depending of course on the long term sun exposure level.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/18339/which-type-of-pvc-for-exposed-outdoor-use

For those who may to know: ...  http://www.harrisonplastic.com/pvcschedule40-80specs.html

Sorry, this is off topic... What CAD program do you use to generate those dimensional images? Can it print reverse (black on white)? I am looking for a newbie friendly, SIMPLE 2D software that is iMac compatible (without using a Windoze emulator) and that won't cost thousands per year to lease. Any suggestions? I have a new Sherilne 3 x 17" lathe and mill, and need to draw stuff that will look professional, but all the work will  be hand turned and milled. No stepper motors for me 😉 . NO to this:

Thanks,

john Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

Thanks John, and I appreciate the tip on preserving the integrity of the material. Per the link you provided I think I’ll paint the frame with a PVC furniture paint. Like any PVC you buy at the big box store, this has scuffs and stains on it so it’d look better painted anyway and would shield from the sun.

Regarding the CAD software, I subscribe to AutoCad LT. I believe it’s around $400 if paid annually and there’s no contract. If you let it expire you retain your account and can renew at any time. You also have the option to pay monthly at a slightly higher cost if you only want to use it occasionally. I don’t know if it’s Mac compatible. There are other 2D and 3D software products out there that are cheaper but being an old dog I didn’t want to have to learn a new system. It works for my needs. Oh and you can transpose the image colors when printing. 

[Ollie-Haus]

2 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

@Ollie-Haus : Looks great, brother!  Need to add this to the "To Do" list, ha!  Awesome job.  Thanks for posting...

Along with a fresh wax job, that pvc frame made installing the caver very easy. Started at the back and unrolled towards the front. Then stood on the bumper and pulled the cover back and down until it was centered on the camper. It was so smooth and slippery the cover just glided into position. 

[Geronimo John]

1 hour ago, Ollie-Haus said:

Thanks John, and I appreciate the tip on preserving the integrity of the material. Per the link you provided I think I’ll paint the frame with a PVC furniture paint. Like any PVC you buy at the big box store, this has scuffs and stains on it so it’d look better painted anyway and would shield from the sun.

Chris:  Great idea and creative execution!  Well done.   Not only looks great, is functional, but the curved edge is more aerodynamic as well. 

In the world of PVC, the big box store white PVC is designed for underground use.  The Gray PVC is designed for electrical usage that is often used above ground and exposed to the sun.  Just like black tie-wraps, the gray/black products have UV inhibitors, and generally speaking the white ones do not.  So if one is going to paint the PVC, I suggest using the UV inhibited PVC. 

OR if your decals use gray as part of your Ollie's theme, then the gray PVC could be used as is.  

GJ

[Ollie-Haus]

So I've spent a little time researching this evening and there's clearly a product that's perfect for this project if anyone is entertaining a pvc guard to your solar panels. 

Formufit is an American made furniture grade PVC product line that's UV inhibited and has a much higher strength than standard PVC pluming pipe. It has a nice glossy finish that matches the fiberglass on the camper. You can get it direct from the company, Home Depot or even Amazon.

For this project you would need 4 pcs 1-1/4" tube 60" long and 4 pcs 1-1/4" 90 deg. elbows. 

https://formufit.com/

[Fritz]

On 11/3/2023 at 5:56 PM, Ollie-Haus said:

made a straight jig out of a 12"x60" piece of plywood with two 2x4's attached to hold the pvc rigid. I used a guide on the side of a circular saw to cut the pvc into the needed profile.

Did you use a portable circular saw, or did your jig function as a sled on a table saw?  Were your 2x4s attached to the plywood so as to create a channel to hold the pvc pipe?

[Ollie-Haus]

16 minutes ago, Fritz said:

Did you use a portable circular saw, or did your jig function as a sled on a table saw?  Were your 2x4s attached to the plywood so as to create a channel to hold the pvc pipe?

Correct. It was a simple channel jig 60" long and the space between the 2x4's was the width of the pvc. I clamped the pvc on each end with a small C-clamp and used a simple battery circular saw with a carbide blade and a rip guide set to the right cut position. It cut the pipe like butter and very clean. The front and rear pieces need a 1/8" deeper cut on the bottom side to allow clearance for the panel mounting frame/legs. 

The corners I actually cut with a hand held oscillating cutter. I laid the corner piece flat on the table and held it firmly with one hand and used a spacer to hold the cutting blade the correct height off the surface of the table. The blade cuts the pvc easily. 

I realize this is just bits and pieces of information but it's the primary information you need to get started. There's more than one way to go about the fabrication and I already know I would approach it a bit differently if I built another one. 

If you have more questions, just pm me and I'll try to fill in the gaps. 

[Fritz]

Thanks. How might you do it differently?

 

[Ollie-Haus]

3 hours ago, Fritz said:

Thanks. How might you do it differently?

 

I ordered a set of parts from Formufit and I may assemble the frame with the materials as received and than make my cuts. If you cut the material first it collapses slightly and then probably wouldn't solvent weld very good. My first frame I built with screws only because I recognized the the changes after cutting as the joints fit very loose, requiring a few more screws than I had originally planned. Now that I know the precise dimensions for my tubes I could solvent weld up the frame, let it set a day or so and then add a couple flat head screws at each joint with the nylon locking nuts on the back side, then make all my cuts. I haven't determined in my mind if this is the best approach but may give it a go. If I do I'll post a more detailed account of the build and installation. 

[HDRider]

That looks great.

[SeaDawg]

We probably have 120k plus on our trailer,,with panels. 30k before addition.

Looks nice, but wondering if necessary?

[Patriot]

14 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We probably have 120k plus on our trailer,,with panels. 30k before addition.

Looks nice, but wondering if necessary?

Necessary maybe not, but it sure enhances the looks/appearance of his Oliver.
 

Great work Chris, Mod On Brother! 👍🏻😊

[Ollie-Haus]

19 hours ago, SeaDawg said:

We probably have 120k plus on our trailer,,with panels. 30k before addition.

Looks nice, but wondering if necessary?

I can absolutely appreciate the durability of the panels, but my original intent was to create a permanent solution to protecting our Calmark cover from the sharp edges of the panel frames, and make cover installation easier. Turns out both were accomplished and the aesthetic improvement was a bonus. But by no means does every owner need this.

I thought if it worked for us maybe others that use a storage cover would want to have the option. The whole project cost under $100 with the Formufit brand furniture PVC ordered through Home Depot. It does take a little patience and carpentry skill to cut and fit the assembly to the panels, but once complete, it only takes a few minutes to install or remove if you ever need to. 

[SeaDawg]

As permanent protection for you calmaek cover, I totally see the value. Eliminate all the sharp edges.