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Water drain gadget


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We always travel with at least 10 gallons of water in our fresh tank, for emergency bathroom stops, etc. In the past, when we got home, I'd open the fresh water drain while the trailer was in the yard to empty the tank. Now that the trailer's in the garage, with no floor drain, I wanted a way to drain the tank without it dumping on the garage floor. I bought a low profile bucket and some garden hose bulkhead fittings on Amazon, drilled a hole in the bucket, and installed the fitting. Now I can slide the bucket under the fresh water drain, attach a hose, and let the water run out the garage door. 

Parts: 3 Gallon Super Bucket with Ergonomic Handle https://a.co/d/fOahpl0

SNUTUYA PVC Garden Hose Bulkhead Fitting With Plug, 1/2" Female NPT, 3/4" Male GHT (garden Hose Thread), For Rain Barrels, Aquariums, Sinks,2 Pack https://a.co/d/3lRxTCu

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Stephanie and Dudley from CT.  2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior.

Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4.

Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed

Where we've been RVing since 1999:

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I open our fresh tank drain valve (and faucets to breath), on some back road, every time we're driving home from a trip. New freshwater next time out.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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15 hours ago, jd1923 said:

I open our fresh tank drain valve (and faucets to breath), on some back road,

I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road. The trooper said police had received calls that a trailer was dumping something on the highway. The OP said he was ticketed for "failure to secure a load."

(BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.)

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Stephanie and Dudley from CT.  2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior.

Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4.

Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed

Where we've been RVing since 1999:

ALAZCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKYLAMEMDMAMIMNMSMOMTNENVNHNMNYNCNDOHOKORPASCSDTNTXUTVTVAWAWVWIWYmed.jpg.b96241bad6752dec89d25af6ffbc8d99.jpg

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3 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road...

(BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.)

Agreed and thank you! Living in Arizona, I've taken this chance at times on the back roads. It is only water and out here most of it evaporates in minutes. The sight of a Trooper is also extremely rare out of Phoenix, or off the Interstates. I certainly would not think of this if we still lived in IL, VA, FL or TX! Some of these states the cops are very strict! (not here)

I should just wait until we get home. You really need the rear of the trailer downhill to empty it fully (backing into our driveway is downhill and it drains into a wash). And yes, the tank has an overflow to breath the tank. I do open the faucets to start emptying the lines and then blow them out afterwards.

Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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1 hour ago, jd1923 said:

I do open the faucets to start emptying the lines and then blow them out afterwards.

I've been thinking about this. There's a check valve in, or behind, the water pump that would prevent water from the lines from draining back into the tank. It's there to prevent city water from backfilling the tank when you're hooked up.

Stephanie and Dudley from CT.  2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior.

Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4.

Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed

Where we've been RVing since 1999:

ALAZCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKYLAMEMDMAMIMNMSMOMTNENVNHNMNYNCNDOHOKORPASCSDTNTXUTVTVAWAWVWIWYmed.jpg.b96241bad6752dec89d25af6ffbc8d99.jpg

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4 hours ago, Steph and Dud B said:

I've been thinking about this. There's a check valve in, or behind, the water pump that would prevent water from the lines from draining back into the tank. It's there to prevent city water from backfilling the tank when you're hooked up.

The check valves are shown in the OTT drawing to be directly inside the hulls at the City and Freshwater inlets. I found them to be along the back wall which can be seen in what I call the Oliver's trunk (see pics, btw a bad place for these lines to be and will freeze more quicky with these large brass valves, a strong conductor will release internal heat more quickly). 

When you blow out the lines, you are pushing compressed air in the proper direction of the backflow preventer (aka check valve), so no associated issue. There is not another check valve at the water pump. The backflow preventer has several purposes, but in an RV without one the water pump would continue to cycle continuously. The backflow preventer creates a necessary close system to build require pressure in the plumbing system.

I have a thread on using compressed air to winterize. I have a thing about using chemicals when working, done 20+ brake jobs w/o Brakleen and the like, even when THEY claim to be environmentally safe, yeah right! We blow our tanks dry and refill several times each winter, since we camp from fall to spring and not during the summer. It's too hot down here! We use and need a good furnace and could care less about the Dometic cooling albatross sitting on the roof! I might remove it one day (fill a 14x14" hole) and mount 2 more solar panels!

Glad it was your thread we hijacked! 🤣 

 

Water Lines.jpg

Oliver Plumbing2.jpg

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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Yes, there are check valves at the water inlets as shown, but there is also a check valve at (or inside) the pump. If the pump didn't have a check valve, pressurized water in the lines while connected to a city water supply would backflow through the pump and fill the water tank. This is actually how most people find out their pump check valve has failed: the water tank keeps filling up on its own. Also, when using your pump, without an integral pump check valve, your system would lose all pressure as soon as the pump shut off, because the water would push back into the tank.

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Stephanie and Dudley from CT.  2022 LE2, Hull #1150: Eggcelsior.

Tow vehicle: 2016 GMC Sierra 6.0 gas dually 4x4.

Our Oliver journey: Steph and Dud B's RV Screed

Where we've been RVing since 1999:

ALAZCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKYLAMEMDMAMIMNMSMOMTNENVNHNMNYNCNDOHOKORPASCSDTNTXUTVTVAWAWVWIWYmed.jpg.b96241bad6752dec89d25af6ffbc8d99.jpg

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16 hours ago, jd1923 said:

We use and need a good furnace and could care less about the Dometic cooling albatross sitting on the roof! I might remove it one day (fill a 14x14" hole) and mount 2 more solar panels

You could just fill the 14 x 14 opening with a low profile, inexpensive roof vent. Remove the manual operator handle.

I actually thought about doing this, as we rarely use ac, when we swapped the Dometic for the small Houghton. 

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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On 1/22/2024 at 2:01 PM, Steph and Dud B said:

I read a post on one of the RV forums that claimed they got pulled over by a trooper while draining their fresh water on the road. The trooper said police had received calls that a trailer was dumping something on the highway. The OP said he was ticketed for "failure to secure a load."

(BTW, you don't need to open your faucets to drain the fresh tank, but it does help if you want to drain all the lines, too.)

People following behind you don't "know" that you're dumping clean water. They might just think the worst (black water.)

Easy enough, for me, to dump clean water in the yard, at home.

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2008 Ram 1500 4 × 4

2008 Oliver Elite, Hull #12

Florida and Western North Carolina, or wherever the truck goes....

400 watts solar. DC compressor fridge. No inverter. 2 x 105 ah agm batteries .  Life is good.


        
 

 

 

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On 1/22/2024 at 10:19 PM, jd1923 said:

The check valves are shown in the OTT drawing to be directly inside the hulls at the City and Freshwater inlets. I found them to be along the back wall which can be seen in what I call the Oliver's trunk (see pics, btw a bad place for these lines to be and will freeze more quicky with these large brass valves, a strong conductor will release internal heat more quickly). 

When you blow out the lines, you are pushing compressed air in the proper direction of the backflow preventer (aka check valve), so no associated issue. There is not another check valve at the water pump. The backflow preventer has several purposes, but in an RV without one the water pump would continue to cycle continuously. The backflow preventer creates a necessary close system to build require pressure in the plumbing system.

I have a thread on using compressed air to winterize. I have a thing about using chemicals when working, done 20+ brake jobs w/o Brakleen and the like, even when THEY claim to be environmentally safe, yeah right! We blow our tanks dry and refill several times each winter, since we camp from fall to spring and not during the summer. It's too hot down here! We use and need a good furnace and could care less about the Dometic cooling albatross sitting on the roof! I might remove it one day (fill a 14x14" hole) and mount 2 more solar panels!

Glad it was your thread we hijacked! 🤣 

 

 

 

Thanks for that plumbing drawing.  What manual is it in?

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2023 Legacy Elite II - Twin Bed - Hull #1423

TV - 2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax 4x4

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3 hours ago, HDRider said:

Thanks for that plumbing drawing.  What manual is it in?

I've been told these are in our Owners Manuals, but mine is a 2016 and I do not see any schematic drawings in the manual for 2016. You have a 2023 and perhaps they would be in the PDF version of your manual online. What I've done is collect drawings other members have posted in this forum, every time I see one!

When I copy a drawing of a newer OTT, I'm never sure the systems in my Oliver will be exactly the same, but they help. Hopefully others in the know will chime in.

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Chris & John in Prescott, AZ | 2016 EII #113 | '01 Ram 2500 Cummins!

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7 hours ago, jd1923 said:

When I copy a drawing of a newer OTT, I'm never sure the systems in my Oliver will be exactly the same, but they help. Hopefully others in the know will chime in.

My 2016 manual doesn’t have a diagram either.  There was no diagram anywhere in the trailer.  I’ve just had to figure it out over the years.

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Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L

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