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More time in the prep than the ceramic coating. I spent hours in prep prior to handing off our Oliver to “the shop.” I felt the more I did, the more time he could spend on the shine. I will start a thread on my pre-work and restoration project. Our local guy charged $85 per linear foot. The CGI starting price is $128/ft, figuring the Oliver EII at 23.5 feet long.

Darn! Well, it was worth the call and at least you know. However, I'm a bit surprised. Bill

I did call service. Disappointingly, the response was, "we don't stock that part" and I may be better off finding a welder to spot weld it back on. I was happy to pay for a new part and have it shipped. I could have pressed the issue but I needed it quickly because we are heading out for 3-4 weeks next week. Like I said, disappointing response to say the least. I would have even been willing to drive to Hohenwald to pick up a part.

Yeah, why didn’t I think of that?🤣

Or for the Milwaukee for over $152. It takes me 1 year to go through 1 can. Dust off on Amazon has a deal right now for 2 cans for $6.29. I paid $12.38 for the 2 cans in January.

Grok says: Here’s a list of businesses in Maine that offer ceramic coatings, with a focus on those that handle RVs, motorhomes, or large vehicles (or explicitly mention them). Ceramic coating for RVs is somewhat specialized due to size, materials (like gelcoat), and surface prep needs, so many auto detailers that do RVs or large vehicles can accommodate it—always confirm RV-specific experience and capabilities when contacting them. davesautocare.net Businesses that explicitly handle RVs/motorhomes + ceramic coatings or detailing: Dave's Auto Care (Saco, near Portland) Offers ceramic coatings and full detailing for motorhomes, boats, and large vehicles. They’ve been in business since 1980 and handle a wide range of vehicle sizes. Address: 775 Portland Road, Saco, ME. Phone: (207) 831-9095. Website: davesautocare.net. davesautocare.net Maine Recon (Scarborough) Provides auto detailing services for RVs, boats, cars, trucks, and more. They offer professional cleaning, protection services, and restoration (contact them about ceramic coating options). Address: 70 Pleasant Hill Rd, Scarborough, ME. Phone: (207) 205-4153. Website: mainerecon.com. mainerecon.com John's Detailing & Cleaning (Bowdoinham) Mobile service specializing in premium car, boat, and RV detailing + ceramic coatings. They emphasize professional protection services. Website: johndcl.com. Phone: Check site or Instagram for current number (e.g., (207) 719-8153 mentioned in posts). johndcl.com Fine Shine Auto Spa (Mobile, serves southern Maine & NH areas like Somersworth, South Berwick, etc.) Mobile detailing with ceramic coatings; they specifically offer RV detailing services. fineshineautospa.com Other strong options in Maine (primarily auto ceramic coatings, likely able to handle or refer for RVs): Every Detail (Portland) — Highly rated for ceramic coatings and detailing. everydetailme.com Shoreline Detail Pros (Brunswick) — Premium ceramic coatings (Modesta certified), PPF, and high-end detailing. shorelinedetailpros.com Prestige Tint & Detail (Portland) — Advanced ceramic coating services. prestigeautodetailingllc.com 207’s Finest Detailing (Portland area) — Ceramic coatings and auto detailing. 207finestdetailing.com Tips: RV ceramic coatings often require thorough prep (oxidation removal, polishing) and can be priced per linear foot or by size—expect it to be a significant investment. Mobile detailers are common in Maine and can come to you, which is ideal for RVs. Check reviews on Yelp, Google, or Facebook groups for recent RV-specific experiences. Some RV dealers or body shops may also partner with or recommend coaters. yelp.com If none of these are close enough or you need options in a specific part of Maine (e.g., northern or midcoast), let me know for more targeted suggestions!

Gemini says: Several specialized detailing and automotive shops across Maine provide fiberglass gelcoat restoration and ceramic coating services specifically for RVs, motorhomes, and campers. Mad Mike's Custom Detailing 4.7 📍 Car wash Open· Closes 4:00 PM Mad Mike's Custom Detailing Click to open side panel for more information Mad Mike's Custom Detailing Click to open side panel for more information , located in Windham, is a family-owned business specializing in intensive custom detailing for large-format vehicles, including RVs, campers, and boats. Reviewers note their expertise with ceramic-based coatings, specifically highlighting how effectively the treatments restore weathered fiberglass finishes and leave an enduring shine. Large-Vehicle Specialist: Equipped to handle the intense scale of motorhomes and trailers rather than just standard automobiles. Fiberglass & Gelcoat Refinishing: Experienced in tackling the specific surface porousness and oxidation challenges common to fiberglass RV shells. Fineshine Auto Spa 5.0 Open· Closes 5:00 PM Fineshine Auto Spa Click to open side panel for more information Operating out of Eliot and serving Southern Maine,Fineshine Auto Spa Click to open side panel for more information provides premium marine and mobile automotive detailing. They specialize in high-durability ceramic coatings designed to withstand severe weather, offering the extreme hydrophobic protection necessary to keep large fiberglass surfaces clean. Mobile Convenience: They feature fully equipped mobile units that can come directly to your location or storage site to apply coatings. Marine-Grade Preparation: Their experience with boat detailing translates directly to handling porous RV fiberglass and gelcoat materials. Prestige Tint & Detail 4.7 Open· Closes 5:00 PM Prestige Tint & Detail Click to open side panel for more information Based in Portland,Prestige Tint & Detail Click to open side panel for more information is a high-end protective shop offering multi-year warranted ceramic coatings. Though heavy vehicle projects require an individual consultation, they specialize in intensive, multi-stage paint and gelcoat correction to remove deep oxidation before sealing the exterior. Multi-Stage Surface Correction: Focuses heavily on removing surface imperfections, swirls, and chalky oxidation so the coating bonds perfectly to the fiberglass. Premium Coating Options: Utilizes professional-grade formulas engineered for long-term UV defense and chemical resistance against road salt and grime. Coastal Car Wash & Detail Center 4.1 🧼 Car wash Open Coastal Car Wash & Detail Center Click to open side panel for more information Located in Damariscotta,Coastal Car Wash & Detail Center Click to open side panel for more information offers dedicated on-site and shop-based specialty packages tailored directly to RVs and boats. They focus on complete exterior washing, decontamination, and specialized surface protection priced incrementally by the foot. Dedicated RV Packages: Offers explicitly structured maintenance and protective detailing menus tailored for recreational vehicles. On-Site Availability: Provides the flexibility of on-site service calls depending on the size of your rig and scheduling needs. Would you prefer a shop with a permanent indoor bay that can fit your specific rig's clearance, or are you looking for a mobile detailer who can apply the coating at your home?

I agree! This tool CAN do a bunch more than a can of compressed air. But - you sure can buy a bunch of cans of compressed air for $70 to $90 bucks - like 20 cans or so. Bill

Or - Give Service a call. Can they ship you a replacement rod and what would the cost be. Since your Ollie is relatively new - this breakage should not have happened. Would they (could they) replace this under warranty? You'll never know unless you ask (nicely). Bill

Ah! Why didn't I think of that? Good call. 🙂

Order a 1/2 shaft collar from Amazon. Try to find a collar that is split and clamps on or one that uses a set screw for attachment. Buy one that is stainless steel. The collar should be clamped on the rod end that had the washer, the other end will still use the washer and cotter pin. These stainless collars are only a few dollars each and will make a good solid end.

Hey all, A quick search did not turn much up so maybe this is an unusual issue. The welded washer at the forward end of the steel rod that allows the entry steps to slide up for travel has broken off. See below. Oliver does not sell that part so the repair options and pros and cons that I can think of are below. Option 1: I considered having a welder reattach the washer. Cons, fairly expensive, $65-100 depending on the welder, and the possibility of recurrence. Option 2: Purchase a new steel rod, cut to length (24 1/2"), and drill holes for cotter pins to anchor. Cons, still expensive, and some machining required, but close to original. Option3: I temporarily cut a half inch threaded aluminum rod to length and used 2 nuts at each end to secure without tightening to the frame. Pros, quick and inexpensive. Cons, threads may bugger up the track that the rod rides in (maybe). Aluminum is not as strong as the original steel rod, but this temporary fix is functional. Option 4: Same as 3 but use a threaded steel rod for strength. This would almost surely wear grooves in the track as you pull out and store the steps. Thoughts from any of the metal working gurus out there? Bob

Wow, those have increased in price! I got the same one in November for $62. It is more powerful than I expected, and comes in handy in the shop. Did you by chance see it on Project Farm on YouTube? It was the top choice in his testing. It looks like it was $90 when Todd tested it, so there must have been a sale when I got mine.

My recent acquisition, more useful than the air compressor blow nozzle!

Received an email from Fogatti today. Got on their list when I was looking at their tankless HWHs. Looks like this unit, advertised "18K BTU" dual variable-speed fan motors and small footprint, could be a Chill Cube clone. They have a heat pump version too. https://fogattiliving.com/products/fogatti-instacool-pro-18-000-btu-rv-rooftop-air-conditioner/

We were very happy with Jason at J and J Rv Repair in the Keys. I think he heads to Holland Michigan area in the summer and does RV repair there also.

The steps on our Oliver have always been loud when being lowered or raised. I have taken some “steps” that have made them quieter. And before you ask, no, I don’t have before and after noise level analytical data. I just know that they are quieter. 1. I draw filed the top and bottom of both slots. This picture after a couple of draw passes with a file shows the roughness left by the machining process. The bright spots are the high spots of the rough surface. I suspect that one side of the slot was smoother than the other due to the direction of rotation of the cutting tool. Picture of the bottom of the right side slot after several passes using a draw file technique. Be sure to keep the swarf cleaned out of the file. There is a light shining on the surface. It is much smoother. I then applied some silicone lubricant to both sides of each slot and allowed it to dry. 2. I next reassembled the steps and placed (6) rubber bushings on the stainless steel rod to dampen the vibrations that the rod made when being drawn through the slot in the aluminum sides. 3. I also replaced the aluminum spacers on each side with polypropylene spacers. 4. I removed the female halves of the sex bolts that act as the pivot for the lower step. I used a T50 torx bit but it is actually a T55. I have the correct bit now. Never pass up the chance to buy a new tool. I applied silicone lubricant to the inside of the hole in the step side and to the outside of the binding barrel and allowed it to dry before reassembling. I will probably drill those holes out to receive Oilite bushings this winter but this will suffice for now. Material used. The rubber bushings are actually 1/2” ID x 2” OD x 2” long. The holes aren’t perfectly centered but I didn’t need for them to be. I chose 2” OD so that they would clear other parts of the step assembly. You will have to lubricate the step rod and the hole in the bushings to be able to assemble them. The polypropylene spacers came from McMaster Carr. Be sure to use a dry silicone lubricant instead of grease. The grease will retain grit picked up off the road. Bill

UPDATE: I scheduled time with First Responder Mobile RV Repair -- the owner is Darrel Kehne. He's retired from the Collier County Sheriff's Office and he and his wife have owned various rigs. He trained with the RV school in Texas last summer (his certifications are on his website). He was extremely nice to work with, very efficient with his time and resolved a number of outstanding items for me. He had heard of Oliver, but had not seen one before. I suggested he come to the rally in October. :) I recommend him, for anyone in this area of Southwest Florida. https://www.firstrespondermobilervrepair.com/ (note, there are a few businesses with this name, in other places...)

If you are invested in the Milwaukee ecosystem, pretty handy tool for camping and more! Not as strong or pinpoint as canned air in some cases but handy nonetheless. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/details/m18-brushless-precision-blower/0887-20

So, I had the one overnight mentioned above, where the Chill Cube made the cabin much colder than the set temp. This was a one-off, not experienced again. I had it on AUTO MODE and AUTO FAN that time. I noticed it switched itself to DRY MODE during the night. We were in the desert valley at 20% RH outside and a very comfortable 40% RH inside. When we got home, I ran the Chill Cube 24x7 for 8 days and nights unplugged, on batteries/inverter only! This time I set to COOL MODE, fan in AUTO MODE. The cabin started at 90F and it was 88F outside. I set temp on the Chill Cube at 76F and the Chill Cube kept the cabin at 76F daily for most of the week, got down to 74 on day 7 and 72 on day 8, as ambient temps got lower. I ended the test after 8 days, since it got cold again up here again (highs low 70s, lows high 40s). We're having a wonderful long spring in the AZ High Country! In the first 24 hour period, we used 60 Ah. This would be -10% SOC only for those of you with 600 Ah. Day two was about the same. Ambient temps lowered a little and on Day 3 we ONLY used net -15 Ah! These numbers include the 320W rooftop solar adding about 12 Ah every sunny hour of the day. The next few days were the same, only using about -2% SOC per day. I believe the Chill Cube will get colder than set temp ONLY when A/C is not really needed, like overnight in the desert where it gets cool outside. Next time when sleeping on a cooler night I should just turn it off. Our lovely spring temps will end soon. I'll run a similar test in 60-90 days when it gets very hot even at high elevation. Last 3 summers, I had the Oliver plugged in with the Dometic P2 set at 80F. It would run nonstop during afternoons with near 100F highs. Without A/C the Oliver could get to over 110F sitting in the sun outdoors, not good. We could hear the LOUD P2 from our deck 100 ft away. Last week while the Chill Cube was running, I thought once Chris had turned it off. I was outside walking around and behind the Oliver and I could not hear the A/C running at all! When I entered the cabin, I could hear the Chill Cube on its very lowest fan setting. In Auto FAN it will run slower than the LOW FAN setting, very low and quiet! 😎

That's the approach I plan to take for Alaska.

Last time I checked, taking the Oliver on the ferry added over $10K. Plus your dogs have to stay inside the trailer and you can't. Other than all that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?

Always! Are you going to be at the Owner's Rally in October? Thanks. Bill

That's great! I was excited when we finally completed my map. Now, I just want to revisit what we couldn't/didn't have time for . I've logged time in all 50. Not the Oliver in Hawaii or Alaska. When my grandson is old enough for preschool, we will be on the road again. In the meantime, treasured memories, as im sure you have.

Anyone need a set of twin fitted sheets?