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The pump fuse clearly has power because it's connected to the same bus as the other working fuses. That red LED fuse indicator will only light when there is a load on the circuit. If the circuit is open, say the pump switch is off, or the pump/switches became disconnected, then there is no load and the LED stays off. With the DC panel fuse pulled out, try the switching the pump on to see the LED lights. That will tell you if the is an open connection somewhere in the circuit. Remember the circuit includes both the hot wire and ground. It's most likely that an open connection would be at the pump, either one of the the switches, or possibly at the back of the DC panel where the pump circuit connects to the fuse. Least likely that it's a broken wire, bad pump, or open ground. I believe the pumps ground goes directly to the main ground bus, it does not go to the switches, although the switches will have ground potential through the pump motor windings. It's possible that the connections to the bathroom switch have come off, but it sounds like you might have checked that already. You're on the right track thinking it's an electrical problem because the green light does not work. However, I would recheck your valve lineup because it sounds like you're trying to draw water in through the boondocking connection. It is possible that the pump is pressurized and the pressure switch is open preventing the pump from running further. . Good luck and let s know what you find.

Can you meter the fuse socket with the fuse removed? There should be power on one side.

Not for me. Way too much tech to go wrong. Deck is a crazy idea, and super claustrophobic with no window when not deployed. SkyDream Plans Global Launch into Challenging RV Market https://share.google/kpEvukUMmqfENZR7F

2026 Hull 1703 We are at home getting ready to leave on Monday for our first trip. Cooling down the refrigerator and running the AC. Just filled my fresh tank for the first time with water and bleach to sanitize as we will not have power or water where we are going. I set all 5 valves to the appropriate direction. Flipped pump switch on Seelevel to bring bleach water thru the lines to the faucets. The little green light did not come on. The pump did not come on. Flipped the switch in the bathroom, no change. The plug on the back of the switch is connected and I wiggled it to make sure there was a good connection. Did the same for the main plug going into the back of the SeeLevel. The Battery, Fresh, Grey, and Black level all work correctly. Checked the fuse and there was continuity. But when I took the fuse out of the fuse block, the red light next to the fuse did not light up. I can pull ay other fuse out and the red light comes on next to the fuse. I think that means there is no power in the circuit to the pump? I am no electrician, just trying to figure it out. Does anyone have any suggestions? We plan to leave our camping trip early and head to Oliver on Thursday to have our furnace and hot water heater looked at as they do not work either and they were unable to fix over the phone. It has been a rough start!

Getting ready to leave at near the end of the month (June) for the rest of the summer. Got to get all of those "honey do's" done first!🥰

Home for the Summer! 🤣 Come see us if your heading one state further West! 😎 Got electric and water for you, free dump station down the street, and lots of great camping around town and in the Prescott NF! (no bighorn sheep though, how cool!)

USFS Campground Columbine Creek , near Questa New Mexico and Red River. Bighorn sheep hangout along the highway nearby, cool visitor center in Questa New Mexico. Hiking trails in the campground to the Honda Wilderness Restored Catholic Church in Questa where is everyone else 🧐

Jason talks about registration fees in the video above. But for those that don't want to watch this video here is what he says: $100 per person from now to the end of June $150 per person from July 1st until close of "normal" registration - assume that this date will be announced later $200 per person from the close of "normal" registration for "late" registration Obviously, to save a bit of coin, registering before the end of June is less expensive. However, even though it appears as though the 2026 Rally will be well attended, the more of us that register "early" also greatly helps the folks at Oliver, helps the folks at the State Park and helps presenters and demonstrations with planning, ordering food, swag and venues for each of the activities. For those that might be worried about something happening that would prevent attendance after already paying your money, in the past up until a fairly late date prior to the Rally, Oliver has refunded most (if not all) of the Rally fees. Looking forward to seeing "old" friends and meeting a bunch of new folks too. Bill

Meh...

Just had our Alcan Springs installed today, along with Bulldog Shocks on our 2022. The Dexter Springs had started to flatten anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4". I had a spare Dexter 4-Leaf spring that the arch measured at 3-3/4".

Same with us so we just put down the 21st in the oliver form.

We just registered. FYI: The Oliver on-line registration doesn't accept arrival dates before the 21st. but we're arriving on 20 Oct.

TECHNICAL SUPPORT TEAM answered my question -- I will leave it here, for others who might be asking the same. When you plan to decalcify the Truma AquaGo Water Heater AND Sanitize the plumbing system, there is a specific order that this should be done. It's logical, but I wasn't sure about any potential chemical reactions between the one (Truma Decalcification Tablets) and the other (a diluted water & bleach solution). FIRST -- complete the Decalcification process. Then flush the system with clean water. SECOND -- Sanitize the system. REMEMBER to put the system into BYPASS CONFIGURATION for the Water Heater during the Sanitization process. After Sanitization, flush the system TWICE with clean water. THIRD -- Fill the tank with fresh water Shout-out to Chris with Oliver's Technical Department for helping me out with this question this morning.

Thanks for that intel. Does anyone know if it’s the unit with heat pump, model # , btu rating, and if it’s a drop in replacement?

I have been using the Cielo Breez Max smart thermostat for almost a year with no apparent issues, nor have I read any negative reports from other users (Oliver, as well as SOB owners) regarding potential harm to their RV air conditioners. Some have expressed concern with the power ON/OFF attribute of the Cielo and inherent longterm harm to electrical control and mechanical components. Proper configuration of settings to prevent ‘short cycling’ is paramount in avoiding said harm, whereby the compressor is allowed time to equalize refrigerant pressures and thus, significantly lessen subsequent strain on sensitive equipment. I’m of the opinion 1) that Cielo has built in scheduling features by default to provide for necessary delays between compressor cycles, as do most RV thermostats, and 2) the soft start device pairs well with the Cielo to further lessen any longterm concerns I may have. I can honestly say that the Cielo has completely resolved the ‘humidity spike’ issues once experienced and exceeds my expectations as a replacement thermostat in our Oliver.

I took a trip to Oliver on Tuesday with a prospective buyer. While we were looking at the 2027 model the salesman started the Dometic Freshjet, It was almost as quiet as the Truma AC in my Elite ll. We could easily converse with it running.

One exception may be Dan. @DanielBoondock ???

If you are attending (or still thinking about attending) this year's Rally and have NOT reserved a campsite, be sure to do this ASAP. When I reserved my site a couple of months ago, there were not very many sites left to choose from. Bill

Zane - Most of us do not have your type of shades on our windows. I'd either call and/or open a Service ticket. Both of these can be done by clicking on the "Service" tab located in the dark blue area at the top of this page. Good luck. Bill

Rally Early Registration is open and saves you $ as price will go up later. Rally link: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/ See Jason on the Morning Coffee Youtube just released...he also discusses the Rally Registration and Fee's in the video.

Thanks! Our 2010 did not come with a boondock connection and I'm going to have to build one of these before we start our big adventures.

We have a new 2026 Elite II with the new pull down shades. One of our shades will only retract half way. The other three shades retract at least 3/4 of the way up. All of them are a bit finicky to use. Any advice on how to get the shades to retract properly? It almost feels like it a spring inside needs to be re-rolled to give it tension to roll up. Thanks-

It had lost prime. I connected city water to boondock connection. Turned on water for 20 seconds or so. Connected my boondock hose to boondock port. Turned on pump. Sucked up a gallon of water lickety split.

I carry a backup pump and have had to use it to fill through the normal fill port (not the rear suction port.) If you ever want to build a backup pump system...here's our article on that topic. Backup Water Pump Hope some of the comments like the one above about checking for air leaks have helped. Let us know your outcome.

Assuming the valve set up is correct, and the pump screen is not plugged, them many have found that the boondock hose seal was worn or the boondock hose fitting was not FULLY and FIRMLY tightened. As a result, that connection sucks air and little or no water moves on board. Suggest double checking that connection and raising the boondock container as high as you can so reduce the hydrostatic head to the pump. This will assist in getting the pump to self prime. Ours takes about a minute a gallon to boondock onboard. Hope this helps GJ