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And indeed — though I specifically requested confirmation of 7 pin they only have 4 pin and wiring seems to include no brakes. Of course they sell an adapter, but I don’t think this will tell me anything. I’m on hold…

Having the condensate collect in pans in the DPll and drain via the inner hull tube Oliver installs is not without issue. Many have experienced, self included, condensate water dripping inside the cabin either from drain line blockage, improper leveling on setup or excessive humidity conditions. I have no regrets abandoning the tube drain with my chosen a/c replacement and no further worry of internal leakage. Just say’n!

In humid climates there will be more than just a little drip, but being slightly off level as you suggest will divert any runoff to a rear corner. Even though condensate is like distilled water, be assured there will be some staining from contaminants it picks up as it leaves the condenser and drains outward. Maintaining adequate wax on the gelcoat will help reduce said staining and further cleanup of any resulting streaks.

Most U-Haul trailers have a 4-pin cable since they have surge brakes rather than electric brakes. Will that matter in the pull test you are suggesting?

Good advice. Just be careful not to have any of the four individual trailer tires lock up when doing a panic stop. Apparently my curb rear brake on Ollie locked up last season and a flat spot was the result on the tire. Found it during routine pre-trip annal inspection. I plan on replacing my 2018 Michelin's next season so just put the unused never on the ground spare tire on that location and am good to use the slightly damaged one as a spare for this season. Very happy that OTT gives is a full size matching spare! GJ

Just two years old and squeak!!! 🤣 RE the gain on your brakes. My take is the old 1750 LB leaf springs were quite forgiving! The 2750 LB Alcans not so much. The old suspension would allow the hull to porpoise when the brakes contacted. The new suspension will not, so brake contact to road is immediate! More so because your springs have not had break-in time. Put your gain higher when you get back on steep mountain roads, maybe up to 6. And maybe you don't need 7 anymore. My older truck does not have a factory brake controller. The default gain on the Tekonsha is 6.0. I bring it up to 6.2 in the mountains and sometimes down to 5.8 around town. Looking forward to what you see from you inspection tomorrow!

Yeah - me trying to be privacy sensitive to the previous owners since their names are on the full receipt and also finish the post before Rebecca finished cooking dinner. I'm on my (home) mac not my (work) win11 machine and the screenshot works differently. I copied the date and did not paste it. 6/18/2024 is the date of the work order. Sending you the unredacted workorder privately. Will open a ticket at Oliver. Will double check when I do the "pulse test" in the morning. I just had the tires pulled and TPMS units installed (pared with the Ford truck displays) and Discount Tire did not note any issues - and that's money to them 🙂 One note - part of the launch procedure for every launch is to do a rolling at idle trailer brake stop check using the manual traler brake on the Ford integrated brake contoller. I have been running at 7.0 - after picking up from Alcan the brakes seemed stronger so I reduced to 5.0 and achieved the same performace on the idle rolling brake check. All relative numbers, but want to make sure to put in all the data.

There has been several threads on the shock bushings being over compressed. Following is one of them, with good pics on how it should look when the nut is tightened correctly. My suggestion is to take the dished washers from the old Monroe’s and insert them between the metal frame and the new bushing on each shock on top and bottom. This will better support the bushing to help keep it from hanging over and getting stress cracks. On mine, I had to grind off a bit of the upper dished washer to get it to fit snugly. No need to replace the bushings, they are still good, just loosen them up. Easy to do. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7138-any-tips-for-leaf-spring-maintenance/#comment-77118

Scotty (or Greg), you may know I’m the only one here with the Chill Cube installed on an Oliver. So you may say I’m biased! I just ran a test which I’ll post soon on my Chill Cube thread. Ran it for one full week on batteries, set at 80F (it’s parked at home). Daily high temps low 90s! Without A/C with the AZ sun the cabin would be high 90s or more. Not a drop of condensate down the hull. The Chill Cube has a condensate trough that the condenser fan runs through, picking up the water like a water wheel. But can’t promise there wouldn’t be any in humid climates. There would be much less. Ran it for 7 days using on average 96 Ah per day ONLY! We have 320W rooftop solar which adds power in addition to the 96. Your Oliver and ours are both 2016 models. Maybe you have the same solar. Without solar say it adds to 240 Ah per 24 hours. That’s about 10A per hour average. On full blast, it pulls 60A but not for long. Our Dometic P2 took 150A minimum and would take forever to cool down. I'm starting another test this week with set temp at 74F. 80F is a good summer storage temp and at 74F it will be very comfortable inside. I'll bet I can run it 3-4 days at 74F in 90F+ heat. I cold never imagine this when we had LA batteries and the awful Dometic. BTW, I’m talking DC amps that can be read with Bluetooth connection to a shunt. We do everything on 900 Ah batteries, usually un-plugged (600 Ah is a good number). I now know for a fact the Chill cube takes 30-50% of the power compared to ANY RV A/C in the market today that is not an inverter or variable speed compressor! If there is a little drip, level front and curbside jacks up 1/2” and the excess will run down the back corner. It’s basically distilled water, so will not stain the fiberglass like rain water catching all the chems they put in our skies. The Chill Cube will run on batteries twice as long as the Freshjet and it’s also quieter than any other model out there, no compressor bang like the Truma, Houghton, Tosot or any US market Dometic product. And if you’re dead set on the condensate issue, the Freshjet is your only choice. You couldn’t pay me to own anything else now that we’ve experience the Chill Cube (a non-paid advertisement)! 😎

Excellent - You'll know more tomorrow! Not sure if we should be routing for the error to show with the U-Haul trailer or not! If it shows, then the issue is with your truck, and 4 GM dealers already couldn't figure it out. If you do not get a trailer error, make sure you give it a fair test. Pull it out, down the road. Turn your truck on and off several time. Pull the 7-blade plug in and out a few times. Still no error? Then we must conclude wiring on the Oliver side is bad.

Doesn't matter. Your mechanic thought this was the correct junction box and all the right colors are there for a trailer wire harness. This is referring to my comment on the black wire. The black provides constant 12V positive. In a cargo trailer that has no batteries it's used to power interior lights from the TV battery. In the Oliver and perhaps other travel trailers it uses the truck batteries to charge the house batteries. OTT disconnects it when installing LiFePO4 batteries. I believe it's a dumb and perhaps dangerous practice since a light gauge wire should never be used for this purpose. Anyway, this is not your issue. The only thing that connects power from your TV brake controller to your TT brakes is the blue wire. Just check to see if the blue wire connection tight. No, the Amazon link you provided has both male and female ends, its listyed as an extension cord. If you want to replace the male end, head only, get something like this. If the issue is at the truck to trailer connection only then this is the easiest route. Only takes an hour to replace this, Amazon.com: MECMO RV 7 Pin Trailer Plug Splice-in Replacement Trailer Side Male End 7 Way Round RV-Style Trailer Light Wiring Harness Connector, Heavy Duty 7 Prong Trailer Wiring Tow Plug for RV Boat Trailer : Automotive I like the idea of this one since it has a waterproof cable gland built into it, but it would be too long to fit on my truck. Amazon.com: Oyviny RV 7 Pin Trailer Plug with IP68 Waterproof Seal, Detachable 7 Way Round RV-Style Trailer Side Connector 7 Point Trailer Wiring Plug : Automotive If you need to replace the entire cable from the male 7-blade connector all the way back to your junction box under the vanity, you need something like this: Amazon.com: CheeMuii 7 Way Trailer Cord Heavy Duty 8 FT Trailer Wiring Harness Kit 7 Pin Trailer Plug Inline Wire Harness Cable for Trailers RVs Campers : Automotive Amazon links are to show examples. I'm not suggested these products specifically. No way you need a GM part and the picture of a part description you showed above is a combo 7-pin and 4-pin unit (4-pin for little trailers without brakes). You asked RE the clamp ammeter? I purchased a more expensive Klein product, their rugged version, but any will do just as long as it reads AC/DC, for the 120VAC systems and 12VDC systems we have on the Oliver. This one looks decent. Amazon.com: Klein Tools CL120 Digital Clamp Meter, Auto-Ranging 400 Amp AC, AC/DC Voltage, Resistance, Continuity, Non-Contact Voltage Tester Detection : Industrial & Scientific

Good find, Detective Columbo! 🤣 First time I heard the terms curbside and streetside was on this forum. The automotive industry uses left and right from the driver's point of view in the driver's seat. Whether I'm working on my Dodge truck, one of our Toyota products, or any vehicle if an auto part is unique left to right, you will see an L or R printed on it or in the part#. Go figure the wheel you are having an issue with is one that had a prior issue, also the one OTT replaced! Now you must enter a Service Ticket since OTT is already involved. Strange no date on this receipt. Maybe you have a larger picture showing it. Looks like they replaced everything on your right rear. They usually remove the entire braking plate and replace it with a new one that has the shoes, springs and everything. This is the way these are serviced. Nobody just replaces shoes on trailers anymore. The full assemblies are not very expensive (the drum/hubs with bearings are). It states ALL BRAKE ASSEMBLIES AND HUBS which means more than one but above it does state RIGHT REAR. The "HUBS" are integrated to the drums and the bearing is in the hub. This means regardless of where your squeaking is coming from it's coming from a part replaced already under warranty. When you spin your tire tomorrow, inspect the tire carefully for any bald spots or even scuffs on the tread surface. The tire was also replaced since it was "flat spotted" due to the brakes locking. Question is WHY? Why is squeaking occurring at the same RR location? The brakes locked last time but we cannot conclude it's the same cause today unless you find some flat spotting which would indicate brakes. Everything was replaced with new parts. I sure would like to know when. Maybe you can determine the date from related paperwork you have. Back to work, Columbo! 😎

Digging into document metadata, classic. Don’t mess with geeks.

@jd1923 @Tom and Doreen not trying to columbo here - but this conversation made me think about the one thing we did get when we purchased the trailer - the service records. I went back and reviewed them (yay for cloud storage and scanning in all documents) and the plot thickens. There was this notation - and the sellers mentioned that Oliver had done axle work under warranty and replaced tires. See image below. I'm trying to figure out if right means curb, and if they mean all brakes and hubs? Is there possibly a link since it's the rear curb wheel that's having the problem, and that definitely rear regardless or left or right.

@jd1923 during our pre-launch procedures tomorrow morning (heading to Nebraska) I will lift the curb side and confirm constant or pulsing. I'm thinking pulsing, but I'm not sure enough not to test.

Unfortunately, the original owners were not "detail oriented." After looking at the trailer the first time, Rebecca (who had been talking to one member of the couple) and I (talking to the other one) compared notes and could not come up with a route that would take the stated mileage (5k) and the places visited. Yes - we were really in love with the idea of a LE II and based on our experience with our LE I figured the Oliver build quality could overcome any reasonable maintenance neglect. 🙂 I was wondering about the brakes - especially since (1) the axles had to be removed to put on the new springs and (2) the involved disconnecting and reconnecting the wires (assumption since the brake wires have really well applied new connections which look like Alcan quality work). When were brakes inspected - not since we have had the trailer. Need to do that when we get back to Dallas. I'm sure someone has done an excellent tutorial on it. Suggestions welcome in case my forum search skills are not up to par.

Lake Catherine SP is one of our favorites! Mike

Hey Gang, It's past time to retire the Penguin AC for something quieter and more suited to our eventual upgrade to a 600ah Lithium system. I know we have owners with the Truma, Houghton, and dometic freshjet 3 series. (Thanks to Roadlotus for her write up on the FJ3) I am leaning toward the new Dometic Freshjet 4 or 5 series. Reasons include: A) Quieter than the penguin (what isn't) B) would be easy to fit into the existing structure C) Service almost anywhere D) Has iphone app control as well as the Air Distribution Box control and E) Should be energy efficient enough to allow a few hours operation on a 600 ah system. I was considering the Furrion Chillcube but the possibility of condensate overrunning the pan down the side of the trailer is a deal killer. Just wanted to ask what I might not be considering on the above list OR if there is an outlier that is not on my Radar. TIY, Scotty

Good thought Tom (and Dudley). Could be the brake shoes, but I would think @DunnYet would have noticed more than a squeak when spinning the wheels if this was true. The shoes, when the self-adjusters are working correctly, should just slightly drag on the drum and you should hear and feel drag as you spin in either direction. Correct the brakes are worn in rolling forward, something to consider for sure. The circular pattern of the shoes is not perfectly round like the drum. If the squeak has some pulsating pattern this could be true. If it's a constant squeal when spinning, then more likely the bearing. A three-year-old trailer should not have bearing or brake issues. IMHO, 3 years would be minimal time for a first inspection. This is supposed to be a 5-year 100K system. Also understand to check the brakes the outer circlip and spindle bolt must be removed. The bolt is on at 150 ft-lb and you must be able to replace it and retighten to this spec. I don't think a buildup of brake dust would do this. If the trailer was dragged through a lot of water on and off, then perhaps. I just lifted our Oliver and spun the two wheels on one side. I heard the constant drag showing the shoes are adjusted nicely. On one I heard a slight chirp in reverse, it went away immediately. Nothing you would call a squeal, but it plays to your hypothesis. Mine are like brand new though. I installed new D52 axles 10 months ago and have only 3,600 miles on them. @DunnYet, next time you do the spin test, try to focus on what kind of sound and where it's coming from, dead center or on the perimeter. You could use the tube in ear approach in lieu of a stethoscope. Constant squeal or something more dragging and pulsating?

Thank you very much! On my way to UHaul place. Update: I called before driving. Oh well… No trailers available today, but reserved for tomorrow. I think I’ll take a walk. Lake Catherine SP is gorgeous.

That was my first thought. We have one "Never Adjust" brake that always sets itself a little tighter than the other 2.

Thanks for the info.

It could just be that one of the brakes is out of adjustment. The drum brakes are 'self adjusting' but it's not always a perfect system. There could also be built up debris, brake dust, etc. that is interfering with the brake shoe or components. I think it's a good sign that the brakes don't squeak in the forward direction. Because the shoes wear-in mostly when applied when moving forward they are less likely to squeak when rotated in that direction. Because your trailer is used, do you have any data as to when your brakes were last inspected and what may have been found at that time in terms of the amount of wear? Your trailer is newer than mine so I suspect that your brake shoes still have a good service life left on them.

Must have been getting tired last night! Truma in the title made me think HWH since there have been so many posts. Today I clearly see 'furnace' in title and body of post. There is something called a "wall cowl" and several flaps in this system. One of them is banging when it changes speed producing this sound.

@Boudicca908 Check out this YouTube video by "The Trailer Smith". It's 1 of about 5 that he has put up. Then check out his other trailer video's, for instance, search for "brakes". All of his videos that I have seen have been very informative. Mossey