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I’m sure you’ve done this but just to check a few things: 1: Strainer in place and fully seated. 2: Pop off sealed, try open and close a few times to make sure it seals. If neither of those work you may have a split in the back side of the black mixing chamber. (Looks like a big themos ) This could happen if you didn’t drain and leave strainer out in cold weather. (That would be a big repair bill.$

Hi - I'm getting ready to leave home in a few days and am going through the standard "get ready" list. I found the water pump wouldn't shut off and also saw water leaking outside from the hot water heater. I turned off the bypass valve and the pump and the leak stopped. I checked the overpressure relief valve and didn't see anything obvious, but when I clamped it back in place and tried again, it leaked much worse than before. Is this common/simple? - Thanks in advance - Doug

These lists can get really long and temping to buy all the things when you get started. We are in our third year and recently switched over to these for leveling and love them. Put these down and turn on level-mate pro and getting level is easy. Way easier then pulling on and off different sets of blocks.

I have really liked our Starlink mini when traveling. I have used it for basic keep in touch stuff all the way to video calls for work. We have even held two wifi based phone calls over Starlink mini while on the standby plan! My setup is still pretty basic. I have a tri-pod I mount it on so I can move it to the best spot and plug it into the side of Ollie. Speed and reliability have been great! As @jd1923 mentioned the ability to switch plans is great. Sometimes I have paid $15 for 50GB of data for the 4 days I needed it (just got lucky with how it hit my billing window).

PS - again thanks from Blain, Karen, and golden doodle Martha out of Edmond, OK.

I took another look at the photos and saw where the screws are installed through the frame into the aluminum C-Channel. Thank you so much. I will be doing the same thing here on our 2022 LE1 Hull #951.

“Then placed the frames back on, drilled and attached the shade frames with #6 stainless steel screws.”. — where are the additional #6 stainless steel screws installed?

Hey Bob, there is much experience here. Mine is just one input for you... I purchased the extra router when Geoff posted this (impulse purchase because of the $40 sale): https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/10918-the-new-starlink-mini-router-for-what-ails-you/ Turns out a year later, I've never used it (still have it NIB somewhere)! I just last week integrated our Mini to the Pepwave router which is pretty cool, but our installation is far beyond what you expressed you want. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/9933-pepwave-cellular-router-and-not-the-common-install/#findComment-126971 You really don't need anything but a simple way to mount the Mini. At first, I just sit it on an upside-down milk crate. I was using battery packs so not to string wire, but the Mini comes with a 120VAC power supply (inverter ON required) with produces 30VDC with a 50' cord. We're always 50 ft within view of the northern sky and I would not want the hardware sitting much further out of sight. The simple stand pictured, better than my old milk crate, is what we use when our truck cannot be parked in the right spot. I have a camping rule to minimize setup which in turn reduces all the work to setup and tear down and we move a lot (as you will going all the way to Alaska)! No poles and suction cups for me. As far as service, there is the monthly $10 cost for stand-by service which includes enough bandwidth to setup, download updates, configure and test the installation. You can also slowly load a web page or send an email, again very slowly but the connection is there. When you upgrade service (Starlink must be positioned and phone setup must first be connected to Starlink W-Fi when there's no cell service), they prorate the first month. Our billing date is the 4th of the month, so for example, if I start service on the 20th of the month, given my billing date I will be charged about half the plan cost. I can immediately change the next month plan to return to Stand-by $10/month, so I don't forget. On such a trip to Alaska, you may just need it ON for 2-3 months. This is good to know, but more so for us where we have the cellular antenna and router and T-Mobile 5G SIM card which costs $30/month on my business plan. If we're getting cell which is about 80% of the days we travel then I'm paying for Starlink only when necessary. But when you activate, you're charged on that date through your billing date.

I am planning a 8-10 week trip in British Columbia,Yukon and Alaska for next summer. I started to think about internet access, and being able to communicate with kids. So I started looking at Starlink posts in the forums here. I am thinking about the Starlink mini and the Starlink Route mini with the mesh network then doing the Pause anytime with standby mode to lessen the Starlink charges. I am not at the point of wanting to drill holes in the Oli or install a satellite in/on the truck. I know others here were talking about going with the Starlink mini and StarLink router mini in order to able able to get the satellite receiver out at the 50 ft limit and still get decent reception back inside the Oli. I was hoping to get some feed back on how this is working out. Thanks, Bob

Just to circle back, I got to field-test my design on my trip, and I’m super happy with how it worked! So much so that it even survived a random weather microburst and the suction cups remained planted! 😂 Not only was I able to camp in extremely hot weather and use the shower often, but after eleven days I still had 25% capacity left in the gray tank. There’s honestly nothing I would change, except possibly adding a wooden bath mat to keep my feet clean. I used one of those inexpensive folding stools to keep my shampoo and soap at an easy-to-reach height, and added another suction hook for my towel. I also attached a tarp clip to a suction cup on the side of ILOVHER to keep the shower curtain pulled in and prevent any unwanted exposure. 😉 I’m really happy with how it turned out. It’s compact, works extremely well, and will travel with me for future camping where gray-water discharge is allowed!

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread. After a summer of brutal heat and a refrigerator that wasn't able to keep up, I was despondent. But I found this old thread, got hopeful for a solution, was able to order the parts and install some fans. I'm excited that they are working and quiet. The real test will be when I drive home to Texas, but I actually had to turn down the refrigerator temperature setting because it seems so much more efficient.

And nothing like the diesel engine with exhaust brake! 😎 I use it always, even around town, towing or not. Somebody cuts in front of you and you're slowing down as soon as you let your foot off the gas. Drove recently Prescott to Phoenix to pickup Chris at the airport. It's a 4300 ft drop in elevation and I made it down the mountain without pressing the truck brake pedal once. Without it, I'd be on the brakes most of the way down. Towing the Oliver down I-17 does require braking a few times where the drop is 6-8%. For sure! Note a couple Forum members recently posted they prefer when the TV weighs more than the TT. It provides balance which boosts confidence when towing in less than ideal conditions. Our truck loaded and hitched (with tongue weight) is 8K LBS with 8,800 GVWR, and the Oliver loaded is 6,400 LBS. Never will the tail wag our dog. Given you're buying new, it's the right time to make it your last and best TV purchase. We're not getting any younger! 🤣

Having done it before, I can say that having a marginal tow vehicle is no comparison to having a competent tow vehicle. A bigger truck is safer and more comfortable to tow with. No weight distribution hitch, no worrying about your weights, much more relaxing. If you're buying a new truck anyway, I suggest going for a 2500. You'll probably end up buying one later, anyway.

I didn’t comment earlier, since I don’t follow new tech and models. But I’m with @FloraFauna 100%. I used to buy used Cadillacs (one Lincoln Mark VII LSC) for my drivers back in the 90s, like the Seville STS, nice car to commute Chicago traffic! They’d come off a 2-year lease, with under 30K miles, and always with a dealer add-on 70K powertrain warranty! I’d keep them another 2 years and trade for another beauty for very little money. I’d spend 28K OTD, for what new would be 60K plus dealer fees and taxes! In AZ if I buy from a private owner, there are NO sales taxes. From a dealer, the plus 8.6%! Think about total cost of ownership. For what you’d be spending for new, you could get the same model but the HD 2500 series, low mileage 2-3 years old, for same or less $$$! Our TV is 26 years old and pulls the Oliver NP! I’ve purchased about 60 vehicles in my life. Only 4 of them were new. I have a little brother who won’t buy anything used to save his life! Maybe because when young he got all the used hand-me-down clothes I grew out of. He’s paid through the teeth and I’ve always had far better rides, way too many to park in our 3-car garage! 🤣

While this does not answer your specific question, many of us prefer to eliminate all those issues you list by simply going with a 3/4 ton truck. Such a truck also eliminates the need for a weight distributing hitch and gives more payload capacity. Its simple and provides more confidence on the road.

Thanks for sharing the information on your upgrade.

I am thinking of buiying a 2026 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali which comes standard with the Premium Suspension featuring Adaptive Ride Control (ARC) Do people that have the GMC Denali find that it halls the Elite II without problems like no porpoising when going over bumps? Does the rear end of the truck squat a lot when conneccting to the Elite II. I would appreciate any information you can share.

What you need is one of these But, be a bit careful in that there are some of these water stations that have a sign stating something like "the filling of RV tanks is prohibited". Bill

We’ve been by there many times, just never stopped! Mike

Not bad for $12/night! I think going forward, besides boondocking we'll focus on National Forest Service or Army Corps of Engineers sites that give half off with the senior pass. But kind of a bummer that now on recreation.gov the next 4 nights cannot be reserved online. But you can go online to see what is reserved or FF (first come-first serve). Our campsite #7 is shown, all sites no hookups, some pit toilets, water spigots in 5 spots around the campgrounds but without hose connections. All the campsites inside of the loop are setup in the wrong direction (curbside away from picnic table). A little road noise being right off US Hwy-160 but always quiet in an Oliver! Just east of Mancos CO, Target Tree is within a half hour of Cortez to the west and Durango to the east, with Dolores nearby and Mesa Verde NP. Beautiful roads with beautiful mountain views, forest service access trails everywhere! 🤠

Not sure where the "twice in 2 years" came from. Twice in 5 years. The last one may have been on me for not checking the cable connectors. The cables were loose, there had been arching and the cable ends were pitted. I felt better replacing it just in case, and now turn everything off and check tightness after our last trip of the year. The first day of ownership it tripped. It tripped again and Oliver sent me a replacement in 2022. Oliver stopped using the breaker in 2023 or 2024 and now use a large fuse.

When concerned, replace your DC circuit breakers with ANL or MRBF fuses. You simply know when a fuse burns and there is always a reason behind it. Fuses protect overloads in both directions on the circuit. Simple DC breakers are directional, will protect power to ground faults on one side of the breaker. An issue on the other side of a DC breaker is not covered. I've kept two DC breakers that OTT installed (30A rooftop solar and 40A for jacks, etc.) When I rework something or add a new accessory, I prefer to add a fuse holder over a breaker (only in 12VDC systems). Just keep those breakers/fuses and switches out from under your spouse's bed! 🤣

Yeah but... Given the pics above, we see 11.2V, then 11.1V, then 11.2V which average with great precision in the range of a dead lead acid battery. The OP posted both 11.7V and 12.7V numbers without supporting pics, no mention of the voltage numbers displayed in the pictures. Lead Acid batteries will go to zero, more load-more quickly. In my understanding, given 3 independent readings from 3 independent hardware vendors, Zamp, Xantrex, and SeeLevel; they're all displaying the exact same voltage reading? (within 0.1V deviation on one device). Not likely at all. The batteries are reading near dead but not too low to recharge. Check the multimeter again as wired and check it again with battery cables all detached. It cannot correctly read 12.7V when 3 simple BMS systems are agreeing to 11.2V. Likelihood is the11.2V is correct. Connect to shore power and charge your batteries for 24-48 hours asap. And perhaps it's a blessing, time to scrap the AGMs! In another OTT Forum thread there is a link to well-featured 300 Ah LiFePO4 sale priced at $600. It's a good time to buy lithium. Just one of these batteries will provide 50% more Ah capacity than 4 brand new AGMs. They will last 3x as long and at deliver full capacity in their lifetime. Most who install the LiFePO4 upgrade today go with 600 Ah which will deliver 3x the power!

I wish my main electrical setup looked this clean. My 2020, is all over the place.

Wow, twice in 2 years that is not very comforting. I wonder how bad is their failure rate?