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i think i checked all the fuses on the 12V line and they appear good but there is this connector on both the positive and negative wires coming from the batteries to the fuses and i wonder if they are open circuit. I have never seen this type of component before. is it a connector or fuse or what but it goes to the fuses where i cannot get any voltage reading of any kind even though the fuses test good what is this type of connector for?

Yeah, I missed that too. Dave has the older EI along with a couple of others who frequent our Forum. Oh, and there are no plumbing schematics older than 2019 as far as I know. Maybe @DavePhelps could review the 2019 diagram and comment re older EI differences. The plumbing should be similar. EI and EII have 3 water inlets with similar (same) valving configurations. They likely install water line restrictors on both models. I forgot to mention, there's no restrictor on the boondocking line since the Oliver water pump supplies the suction there's no need.

Turns out these parts as pictured will be at The Rally next week 4-Sale. A good traveling spare set would include a left and right hand set to cover a full axle rebuild. Anybody who can change a trailer tire can mount this hardware on roadside if necessary (think Alaska trip). The hubs come off with a small circlip and one large nut. The brake backing plates connect with 5 nuts on the axle studs (you can see 4 of 5 nuts in the picture). These parts are listed on eTrailer to see their retail value. These are brand new parts to be sold at a very good cash price. Please PM me if interested. You could pick up the parts pictured at the Rally and I would ship a like set for the other side to you free shipping.

My apologies! I simply neglected to notice that what you were requesting was information on the Elite I NOT the ELITE II as I posted above. Bill

Welcome @AKPilot and congratulations! Btw, there are quite a few of us who feel OTT built a darn good Oliver back in the day! I've been restoring our for 3 years and finally all the major stuff is done! 😎 I would start with Dave's suggestion, meaning first be certain your valves are set correctly. There is another reason the boondocking port may work and the others do not. If you look closely at the OTT plumbing diagram at the City and Fresh Water inlets it shows backflow prevention aka check-valves on both lines. What the schematic does not show is that OTT also installed water flow restrictors next in line (see pic, rear wall of basement, Hull #113). This statement had me thinking. Perhaps hard water left in the plumbing over a long period of time would evaporate leaving heavy calcium deposits in these waterline devices. I say heavy because there is a bit of water upstream. Our check-valves always leak a little when unpressurized. With ample water uphill and basically an opening downstream, more and more evaporation over time could lead to calcium buildup that would eventually close the openings. This may well be your use case. I've had it on my long list to REMOVE these restrictors. A true pressure regulator on the fill hose is superior to an inline restrictor, since limiting pressure vs. restricting GPM flow rate are not the same (the former is good, the latter no so). I believe removing them is best. At the same time, the check-valves could be cleaned with CLR but most owners when getting in there have replaced them. They're a relatively inexpensive part and yours are likely to crusty to clean anyway. Hope this helps! Please post your maintenance, repairs and modifications here as you work through them and of course ask questions for anything you need!

There must be a direct positive (+) battery connection to the Optifuse. Geoff ask you to retest, but when you're certain there is no power on the battery side of the breaker (or both sides) then the +battery cable feeding the Optifuse is either 1) disconnected, 2) switched OFF or 3) has an added inline fuse that is blown. You must have an open circuit for there ot be no power on "either side of the optifuse." OTT in their OEM build did NOT add a switch or redundant inline fuse in this circuit. The Optifuse is the breaker that protects your batteries from shorts in ALL DC lighting and appliances (all DC loads). If you have anything but a solid stretch of 6 or 4 AWG between the Optifuse and your batteries it must be an aftermarket installation, perhaps something was added during April 2025 when you had LiTime batteries installed. Your solution is simple. Just follow the battery cable from the Optifuse to the batteries. Given your Optifuse is under the streetside bed, the cable will run a whole 5 ft total, first under the pantry area, then up through a drilled hole/grommet into the battery bay, then connected to a positive battery terminal. Your "Tech" could have added a +bus somewhere interior, if so test for +13V there. But if the retest shows +13V on the battery side, but NOT on the load side of the Optifuse, then replace the Optifuse with a 60A ANL Fuse. There are no other possible causes for the full loss of DC power in the Oliver. You either have an open circuit in the battery cable or a bad Optifuse breaker.

My Legacy 1 is close in age to yours, 2015 hull 107. I'm wondering if your water valves are configured correctly. Mine has only 2 valves. At some point Oliver went to three. If you have the two valve system, the "handles" on both should be oriented front to back of trailer. This would be the general use setup, which would include using the water pump while boondocking, or city water hookup. If you turn both valves 90 degrees (side to side of trailer), then the siphon inlet at the rear curbside will be engaged. You would then siphon water from an external canister or whatever and fill your fresh water tank. Turn the valves back when ready to use the system. That's how it works for me anyway. Dave

I'm a little confused because you've said there is no power on either side of the optifuse, but you've also said that it tests good? Also, you mention a 2000 watt inverter, where you talked about a converter before. These are different things and wired differently. BTW, a 2000 watt inverter should have another ~200 amp breaker or fuse between the inverter and battery. That's not the problem, but you should be aware of it. Mine is mounted on the vertical wall above the inverter. At any rate, the battery and/or the inverter both feed the 12 volt panel (and jacks) via the 60 amp optifuse breaker. Re-check it for 12v from each terminal to ground. There are grounds all over the place in that area, the jack post, trailer frame, or the inverter chassis will work. If there is voltage on the line side, but no voltage on the load side, then you have a bad breaker. These breakers are readily available, and the failure rate is pretty low for the millions of them out there.

I am just up the road in cheyenne and would also be willing to come down and purchase the front tray if you are interested. Going full time in my 22 is going to be an adventure and I think storing the generator and gas can outside my truck topper would be ideal.

i got back home fine and with a voltmeter i did some more checking and there is 13V coming out of the batteries, I checked but there’s no 12 V on either size side of the optifuse. The fuse is good as i checked with ohmmeter. There is a one amp in line fuse I also checked it’s good also. the 2000 inverter is turning on fine and turning on the microwave and all the stuff that runs off the AC so it’s puzzling why there is no 12V DC power in the trailer. there has to be a bad fuse or switch somewhere. I am going to try to reach out to OTT but it usually takes them a while to get back to me. any other ideas? could a fuse be blown in the inverter.

Thank you very much Bill. much appreciated

Below is a diagram for a 2017 Elite II which is the same as my 2016 hull #116. Bill p.s. included are a couple of others that you might need at some point.

Apologize in advance for my lack of experience searching this forum. I am a new owner of Hull 119 a 2016 Legacy Elite. Trailer was purchased from an estate and sat for a bit. i am troubleshooting my water supply system. Works fine from “Boondocker” supply if hooked to external tank. when connected to Municipal or Freshwater Tank…barely a trickle. I found a user augmented plumbing supply diagram for newer Elite II, Do not know if current system is same as older ones, but would appreciate if someone could kindly point me in right direction for a solution. I have found the Alternative Plumbing diagram for 2019 Legacy Elite II. are the plumbing diagrams similar to older Elite models?

Apologize in advance for my lack of experience searching this forum. I am a new owner of Hull 119 a 2016 Legacy Elite. Trailer was purchased from an estate and sat for a bit. i am troubleshooting my water supply system. Works fine from “Boondocker” supply if hooked to external tank. when connected to Municipal or Freshwater Tank…barely a trickle. I found a user augmented plumbing supply diagram for newer Elite II, Do not know if current system is same as older ones, but would appreciate if someone could kindly point me in right direction for a solution.

Nothing yet, but I'd like a large cabinet in its place. The microwave is still in place.

What did you put in the hole when you took out the microwave?

With a tandem axle trailer and a heavy truck you can have a catastrophic trailer tire failure and not even know it. You won't feel it. With the TPMS you know right away and can start reacting, minimizing damage to your rim and trailer and reducing overloading of the remaining tire on that side. That's what happened to us. Our TPMS went off and we got away with only a broken mud flap and cosmetic damage because we stopped with most of the tire still on the rim. You could also have a fast leak from road debris. It could go flat without you feeling it, then chew itself to bits on the rim before you knew you had a problem. Our TPMS also alerted us to a catastrophic trailer brake failure. One wheel started running much hotter than normal. We pulled over and heard noise from that wheel. Turned out the brake assembly had come apart inside the drum. So, yes, I consider TPMS a crucial safety feature.

This makes alot of sense. It is far easier to grease and visually observe how the chassis is functioning/wearing with wheels off. But it is a royal pain as every time i take the wheels off the ez-flex inverts on me and then in addition to remounting, and retorquing, there is the jacking to correct the linkage inversion, once on each side. I guess no pain, no gain.

Prefer not to have that experience and thus lean toward the complete replacement route so share your cautious approach. But in all of this it is not obvious to me how the tire pressure monitor helps prevent a catastrophic blow out versus frequently visually checking inflation and watching for bulges or tire issues at every stop - only takes a minute. Seems like tire temperature might be a more important indicator. So do you see TPMS more as a convenient way to watch your tires or an actual safety feature? Obviously before a blowout the pressure is a number and after a blowout its zero.

I fully agree with removing my screen and whatever else is behind it and fashioning a cone shaped screen from stainless mesh as you described earlier. Insert from the outside and check it each year prior to winterization. I got my endoscope camera and would like to examine the inside of my tank before installing the screen to see what surprises are lurking.

I measured ours and the fitting is 3/4" ID and the full width is 2" which maps to a Thru-Hull fitting this size: https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Thru-Hull-Fittings/dp/B076VTKQQ3/ If so, the overflow tube would be 3/4" ID. For OTT to add the "insect screen" it would have to be in the overflow tube just above this fitting. There doesn't appear a way to service this part. Perhaps Geoff may have luck cleaning the screen. @Hokieman had also thanked @Wayfinder above regarding his August post. Chris was thinking ahead in his post, when he wrote, "At least my tank won't blow up like a balloon and warp the trailer." See in the link below, Chris' screen had rusted, falling apart in pieces, and after he removed the screen there was nothing else, no "filter" present. This screen rusting away would likely be common wherever rust is prevalent in your climate. @Ollie-Haus, if there's no filter what is the black substance behind the screen in your photo? We can't be certain with OTT installations; one hull could have a screen/filter while the other has a different installed component, merely a screen. We have ballooned tanks, or screens rusted away, and who knows what else! I believe unless your inspection shows a clean rust-free screen, a screen that allows full light to pass through it, the best thing to do is to remove said screen/filter in any way possible. Then add a removeable screen inserted inside the bottom of the Thru Hull fitting.

Having experienced a catastrophic blowout on a different trailer, I don't mess around with tires. Tire pressure monitor and replace trailer tires every 5 years, regardless of mileage. The problem with trailer tires is the lack of use. Flexing the rubber is actually good for it, so when a trailer sits, the rubber deteriorates faster. Worse, the problem can be on the inside of the tire, even if the outside looks fine. It's shocking how much damage a tire carcass can do to a trailer when it sheds at 65 MPH.

I understand the flexible connection because the shower pan actually flexes a little when you stand near the drain. But this was sloppy work at the factory. Can't say I'm surprised because we've had several issues with sloppy work in our 2022 as well. It's also disappointing to hear that they denied your warranty claim because you couldn't get it to them within the warranty period, even though you identified the issue within the warranty period. Hope you can resolve it without too much trouble.

I've never seen these before, but they look like they could be a good option- if they're not prone to failure. They *should* also prevent backup into the shower if the shut off valve is happened to be left open. To do it right, you would still have to remove the sanitary tee and replace it with a "Wye" fitting entering from the side instead of entering from the bottom. For the record, I'm not a plumber either, though in the course of 30+ years renovating homes and owning rental properties I've learned a few things about plumbing along the way- especially from all my mistakes!

@John and Jodi I’m not a plumber but I understand what @CRM is saying. It will be a major hassle to cut and refit those ABS drain pipes the way that OTT usually does it. The result might be a plumbing mess, and regardless, it’s still a poor design. One possible solution might be removing the P-trap and replace with a Hepvo valve. You could use the existing incorrectly installed sanitary tee, and with some creative plumbing install the Hepvo valve horizontally down low on the basement floor. I do not know how well this would work, but throwing it out there for the more competent plumbers to consider. Anyone ever use these Hepvo valves? See link for installation ideas in RV’s. https://hepvo.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/HepvO-US-RV-Plumbing-Applications-June-2021.pdf