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Having spent the last 2 weeks south of the frigid temps and snowstorm of the I95 corridor, we are traveling home. Spent last night near Washington DC. We did not hook up to water and stayed cozy inside. As we were winterizing before heading home this morning the fresh and city water inlets were frozen so that we couldn't get any antifreeze into them. We're on our way home now and will try to thaw them out and try again. Has anyone else run into this issue? Did you have any damage?

For those that don’t want or know how to set this up locally You can also do a google search of just the forms natively with google by starting your search with the forum URL like this. “https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums tire pressure”

At 10:00 am Saturday morning we have about 4.5 inches of snow. Temps are falling - 27 degrees at 7:00am and 24 degrees at 10:00 am. Before you start to laugh - please remember that this is the "sunny" South, home of "Rebels" and Moonshine.😃 Bill

I'm in your court on this one for sure. Yes it was a less than optimal design. Ultimately everything fails if the use is pushed beyond the design limits. I think this is the case for this young couple. The fact that THEY INSEALLED the system from Alcan concerns me. If so, was Alcan advised of the end weight of their vehicle during the purchase or was it a "Send me XXX" and I'll install it transaction. More "Paul Harvey Questins"..... Crazy Horse has warned me about flaming arrows at times seeking me out.... but I can assure you that I don't intentionally try to be such a target. Here is my response to the couple left on their comments section of Youtube. GJ

Putting plastic between the conductors does it for me. That's not a safety feature, it's a bad design.

After seeing this, me too! Why are the leads bolted together? Why were they all loose? Can’t tell unless you invalidate warranty by sawing the case open!

You couldn't pay me enough to ever put these in my Ollie.

Nice, well done. I like your solution much better than ours. We used up a left over roll of thin aluminum sandwich foam insolation purchased for cold weather window inserts.

Beat me to it. Unbeliveable

Will Prowse update.

In light of the wintery weather all over the south, this is a great idea! I've always just tucked a folded blanket against the hull, but this is thinner, and probably just as effective.

Please remember the context of this thread, re leaving the trailer with plumbing ready, weekends in Clemson SC. It’s not about long storage in cold climates! Average January low in Clemson is 36F and in Prescott AZ it’s 22F (it’s not Phoenix up here)! Average Jan highs in both towns are in the low 50s. The good weather in Clemson SC is certainly more mild than in Prescott AZ. Based on the 36F average, 2 of 3 winter weekends in Clemson will stay above freezing. I still contend @Hoosier’s original plan is good as was written!

Yep! I suspect many OTT owners would like a rubber backed woven vynal floor cover. Suggest you consider asking this to be a new thread under Mods. GJ

Readers should be aware that you live in AZ. And equally important you generally are in relative proximity of your Ollie should weather turn terrible. Those who have their trailers where hard freezes HAPPENl and can't always get quick response to their Ollie easily..... may want to consider your approach as not being ideal for their location. But for your situtaiton it is easy and effective. GJ

Looks like this second storm will mostly miss us here in CT. Good luck to those still in the path.

We live in North Idaho, where we experience snow and ice. We use a Clamark cover for our Oliver, and it has been excellent. Our Oliver is parked on the side of the house next to the garage and fence, so it doesn't get much direct wind. To protect against any potential damage, we place padding on the sharp corners, such as the bumper and solar panels, ensuring that nothing gets scuffed. I haven't noticed any signs of the fiberglass being scratched since we have a ceramic coating. If it were exposed to more wind, however, that could be a concern. Putting the cover on can be a challenge, but we've developed a great system that makes it relatively easy. When we take the cover off, we roll it up so that it fits in a plastic tote. We roll it in a way that allows us to simply lift it out at the end of the season and place it on top of the Oliver. Then we roll it forward and let it drop off the sides. This method is much easier than the first time we rolled it on on the ground and tried to lift it up and over.

I wasn't interested in having a hatch under the bathroom sink. To do so, you lose the towel bars and external storage. However, you need to get in there to straighten out the heater ducting and to add vents. Just get a flexible putty knife under the panel, pry it off and then remove the remaining caulk. I went with a rubber seal and 4 screws to hold the panel which can be removed again when needed for service. I also do not believe in winter storage that includes having beds on their sides and/or panels to basement areas open for periods of time. Add ventilation, do it right, and then you can leave beds and panels alone. The link below shows the mods I've made. Exactly, I also have a Ruuvi temp sensor on the rear wall of the basement. When the furnace is running set low at 45F, it can be 20F outdoors and that coldest interior area will be just above 32F. If not, set the thermostat a little higher.

There have been a few, but they were resolved. In the case of the Overlander and the shackles, it appears that vanity got mixed up in the design with physics. On the surface, it appears that the shackle design with the "A" cutout was a weak point. Alcon's actions to change the design is proof that they thought so as well and commend them for doing so. On the other hand their welding inspector's statements were believeable. My heart goes out to those owners. But who pays is still up in the air. Not knowing the weight of their load on those shackles is not normal for someone who has built the truck. Odd actually. Also not being clear as to how and where they used the truck is not useful. Were they heavy on the springs. Were they abusing their suspension by doing "jumping jacks" with their Overlander. Both could damage the suspension but not yet break it. In time it came apart "for no apparent cause" on the highway. Were there other trucks with the same issue? Bottom line, we need the "Paul Harvy" on this story. ("The Rest Of The Story") GJ PS: I just sent Alcon $$$ for a couple of 5200 Nev-r-Lube's to go with my 2400 Dexter springs. They were $400 less than a great firm in Tulsa. And have the experience on this upgrade for sure. A no worries upgrade. .

If you have a pancake line, don't melt the base! LOL

Hoosier: Especially if you down the road you may do the bathroom cabinet hatch, cutting the existing towell fixture caulk and removing the unit for your unique situtation would be advisable. You could temp reinstall eacy week, and next spring permenantly reinstall or do the hatch DIY. Don't forget to keep the the bathroom door open. Use of mag catches has been done by many. But for now, take a cloths hanger (Don't cut it) and just bend it into a long triangle with the hook at the top. Slip the body under the dinette cushion with the coat hanger hook holding the door open. When you get pack, unhook the door and push the coat hanger under the cushion. Easy. As Max Burner's spouse was, mine is loving having the sink storage area all to herself. Happy wife, happy life. GJ

YES. Here is Art's (MaxBurner) approach to adding space under the sink. I don't know if he was the first to do so, but I captured his post and used it. it DOES require mod and does provides significant additional storage space. When I did mine, lowered the floor to well below the bottom of the hatch, and extended it as far left and right to gain even more space. Not an easy project, but is one that is not all that hard to do if you are handy. GJ DIY - Art's Bathroom Under Sink Storage Mod.docx

Our Oliver has outside rear jack switches located on the port and starboard sides as well as duplicate switches for each jack located on the inside of the cabin.

Had to get out the old level today…

This just doesn't pass the smell test🙃

I also store my Oliver remotely outdoors through the winter but do not winterize. All above advice is solid. I use remote temperature sensors and have found that the coldest spot in the basement is in the lower rear of the trailer (storage area) where the water lines run. If that location stays above freezing, I am confident that nothing will freeze. The one additional thing I did was change out my thermostat to one with remote monitoring and control. I chose a Micro-air Easy Touch RV thermostat. It has both remote wifi monitoring and blutooth. https://www.micro-air.com/products_easytouch_rv_thermostat_touchscreen.cfm When temperatures are forecast to stay well above freezing, I can either turn the furnace off (remotely) or set it low (42-45 degrees). When the forecast is for below freezing temps, I turn it up to around 50. My remote sensor will send an alert to my phone if the rear basement approaches freezing temps and I can then turn the thermostat up even more from home. When daytime temps rise above freezing again, I turn the thermostat down to save propane.