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Thank you for this detailed information we are roaming around Colorado and I was thinking about contacting Alcan to check on appointment availability for the upgrade. Maybe we will just pick up the springs and haul them home to complete the job after we gather all the other parts , shocks, EZ Flex, Shackle U Bolts and wet bolts Thanks a million

We probably have the same Dometic unit though I have never checked its model # but my hull is #70 so not too far apart. No issues on mine so far. Given your description I would be inclined to think you might have to take the unit out of the Oliver to work on. You are already much further down the pike of knowledge on this thing than me. Best of luck with the repairs and working through this. Rob

Claudia - Good to see you bad - but - I wish it was under better circumstances. Hopefully someone here has taken this thing apart and can convey wisdom your way - good luck. Bill

Just installed a 24k BTU Pioneer mini split in my garage. Takes some time and effort, but it's doable if you're handy. I don't have experience with a dual head unit. You will need some specialty tools: Cut, debur, and flare copper tubing (get the Yellow Jacket eccentric) Vacuum pump Micron gauge (recommended) Lineset bender kit (BendAid) Specialty torque wrench (or crows foot) for flare nuts Measure everything multiple times before making any critical cuts or holes. The included cardboard template for mounting the inside unit was wrong, but luckily I caught the error. It works exceptionally well and is very quiet, both inside and outside. Benjamin Sahlstrom has some excellent installation videos: https://www.youtube.com/@BenjaminSahlstrom/videos

Hi Oliver Fam, I'm hoping to hear from owners who have actually serviced the Dometic RM2454 burner system in an older Oliver installation. I haven't been on the forum for a while, but I own Hull #184 (2017 Legacy Elite II). I also had the same RM2454 three-way refrigerator in my Casita for about 10 years before moving to the Oliver, so I'm fairly familiar with the unit. Recently, I've noticed the refrigerator is not cooling as well on propane as it does on electric, especially when ambient temperatures are over 80°F. The flame appears normal, steady, and blue with no orange/yellow. The fridge was in normal use at the time—not empty, but not heavily packed or overfilled. I've already worked through the usual troubleshooting steps, including adjusting the thermistor position, running the auxiliary cooling fan, and reviewing common recommendations from both this forum and elsewhere online. At this point, I'm trying to determine whether the issue is related to a dirty or partially restricted burner orifice, a partially obstructed burner, propane pressure, or something else in the LP system. I've attempted to access the burner compartment, but even getting to the baffle screw was more difficult than expected due to the tight working space and awkward access. Looking at the burner/orifice area and chimney, it doesn't appear to be a straightforward space to work in with wrenches. Most of the access is on the right side, and as a right-handed person with some limitation in my left hand, it feels like a very constrained area to safely get proper tool control. For those who have actually worked on this specific installation: Were you able to clean or remove the orifice for cleaning in alcohol? Have you checked propane regulator pressure as part of diagnosing this issue? What tools or approach worked best in this tight access area? Was it realistically doable, or did it turn into a refrigerator removal job? Any lessons learned or "wish I knew this first" tips? I'm not currently looking to replace the refrigerator. I also carry a separate 12-volt auxiliary fridge, so I have some flexibility. I'm mainly trying to understand whether this is a reasonable maintenance task or one that effectively requires pulling the unit. I have cleaned a gas jet before (a few times) on my Casita as part of maintenance. Those who know me from the forum know I tend to be a very hands-on owner and do most of my own maintenance work when possible. I have the interest, but sometimes not the tools or mentorship to pull it off. Appreciate any firsthand experience. Claudia Hull #184

Thanks, and it has worked great for 2 years now. Along with 35-gal fresh water in the TV we use it every few days. No-way could we do that lifting our heavy custom mattress! This and moving all the electrical under the rear dinette seat has saved a lot of frustration. Perhaps OTT could add these ideas to their 2027 models! 😎

🤣

If you like that you gotta try regenerative braking at 0.5 trailer gain! I’ll pull 130 kW silently on the regen and bring you to a full stop, it’s nuts. I have to lower the regen to the moderate level as the high level is too much. Big batter == more regen capability basically. Anyhow yeah the first gen trucks like Lightning, CT and Rivian aren’t for towing, but these second gen Sierra + Silverado are pretty hard to beat as a camping companion. Power is the one thing I don’t worry about boondocking. I’ve talked about it before but I haven’t mapped a trip yet that doesn’t have charging close enough for these trucks. The only vampire I notice is the WIFI (TP-Link travel router), slowly but surely it’ll eat at the battery and heat up the attic, even on Eco. Not a problem with all these kWh really but its’ annoying, I turn it off at night. I wifi hotspot mooching and tether my unlimited plan phone for the family otherwise.

Yeah cutoff switches, the solar pokes into the cabinet but the inverter is on the main layout panel under the bed. Stuff under the beds makes sense - I was wondering with the double hull how you’d access everything but it works great, except when you need to get to them! I’m fine with the electrical, that’s a rare interaction, but the water valves are super annoying. Why didn’t they put a Nautilus panel or the like just under the curb bed? Your motorized valve solution is cool.

I'm assuming you mean the cutoff switches. That's cool and quite an improvement. I had to move everything out from under the beds!

The inverter, the solar is up in the street side cabinet

Hey if Lance's idea works and OTT has such parts at a reasonable price, then cool! In my experience, after entering six (6) service tickets, I strike out every time! I stopped even thinking to ask and channel my efforts into DIY! 😎 This is not a difficult project to custom build yourself! I removed the original microwave for an oven, so check my mod thread below to see what you'd be getting into (when you see my first picture, I added the 2x4s to provide a base for the oven). I see 3 steps in creating a custom cabinet: 1) Remove microwave, fill screws holes on face, file smooth the rough cut opening 2) Clean and line the internal cavity with poly sheeting 3) Ordering and installing new cabinet doors The microwave bezel comes out with 4 corner screws. Our microwave (not that OTT installed yours the same way) had a bracket above it that was screwed in from the upper cabinet. Empty the cabinet and the mat liner and you may see 2-3 screw heads. I lined ours with fire resistant insulation for an oven. You could line yours with any thin PVC sheeting or the like, cut the five sheets to size and glue in place. If you want to get fancy, you could add a molding to hide the cut edges. Also, use Marine-Tex to fill the screw holes in the face. That's step #2 above, now for the finale. Measure the opening for cabinet doors. You must order cabinets somewhat larger than the opening. Go to Depot/Lowes or a cabinet shop to select your cabinets of choice. Get your wife involved in this step of course. Your options are endless! Also think about the hinges. I'm not a woodworker or cabinet guy, but purchase hidden hinges that mount to the interior walls vs. anything that would screw into the face. Then you want a good latching device for both cabinet doors so they stay shut while towing. Staff at the cabinet shop could advise on proper hardware. Can't wait to see your mod post, if you go this direction, take the plunge! It's a good project that you can personalize and when finished have pride in your work every time you use it or look at it! 😎

Check with service. They may have some of the interior cabinet shells, framed and lexan doors that were left over from when they offered the microwave delate as a build option. I ordered the cabinet and it has a nice gelcoat interior, light and frosted lexan door with matching chrome cabinet pull and hinges

Welcome to the forum! Mossey First picture Right click your 'M' and it will open your profile page. Second picture Click on the Red circled area marked 'Edit Profile'

We ordered our Oliver #70 back kn 2014 without the MW. It came with a built in cavity of sorts which I guess one could call it a cabinet. The cavity was wood line probably 1/4 inch Luan plywood. Oliver installed a rather unappealing door during the build but did use the standard SS latches seen on the rest of the overhead doors. Once home I built a new door to replace the original one that appealed to us.

Hello. We are new to the Oliver forum. Just purchased a 2019 LE2 and love it. . However, not have much fun trying to figure out how to use this site. Trying to edit our profile is confusing. Is there a tutorial video or anything.

Our previous camper had Dometic/Seitz awning style windows that could be opened during light rain, really liked those windows, but they were plexiglass. Talked to Oliver about retrofitting an Oliver, but they are not ready to release information about retrofits, yet. Just looking and learning for now. 🙂

Before I purchased my Oliver I owned a NuCamp TAB 400 (great trailer) which had similar windows. Your comment reminds me of our second camping outing with our Nu Camp. I am over six foot tall and I broke the window near the door with my head!! However still prefer those windows over my current Oliver slide windows.

Every one of these that I recall seeing here on the Forum has been "custom" - that is, not using a pre-made cabinet. Good luck! Bill

Does anyone make a cabinet that has the fit and finish to slide in where the stock convection microwave sits?

I used a standard 1/2" wrench and made them hand tight. With a short wrench you cannot over-tighten it like with a socket and longer ratchet. Looking at your numbers, you want the 15-25 range, and I'd go with 25 ft-lb. There is no way 6-9 ft-lb would hold an 8mm bolt on a 4/0 lug! The cables would be lose in a few miles. Epoch has a history of numbers being different on data sheets vs. user manuals.

Just got my Epoch Essential batteries. Been looking through all of the specs on the Epoch I found conflicting information on the torque specs. The Data Sheet shows 8-12N.m or 6-9 ft/lb and the User Manual: 20 to 35Nm or 15-25ft/lbs. Any input on what you guy have torqued bolts?

I thought that when I reviewed the catalog link Rob provided. I'm the oddball here re taste in windows (and certainly other things 🤣). I'm happy we have the sliders and very happy after 10 years that ours are in excellent condition after replacing the white rubber seals with new black rubber. I like the one-hand operation whether standing, sitting, or laying in bed. I open/close the one by my bed every night and morning. Sliders may be better for security too, when left open while away for the day. Every time I pressure wash the Oliver, I hit the windows dead on and a little dirt and a lot of water comes out of every weep hole while staying dry inside. No similar tracks or weep holes in the awning windows, so likely a benefit of being low maintenance. I know some of you have leaks in your original windows and many of you want awning windows for better air flow and other reasons. I hope for you that these windows fit into the roughout openings of your hull with an easy installation! I'm looking forward to reading the first window mod thread on our great Forum! 😂

Are they still mounting them under the streetside bed?

😁 not a problem for us.