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No actually it's the opposite. I just came up the Eastern Sierra, 5k ft to 8.2k, dropped 10% on the battery and gained back 8% on the other side. Regeneration which ICE vehicles don't enjoy. It's even greater with a trailer since you reduce the gain down, I put it at 0.5, so the brakes get used very little (just feathering to smooth out stops). I'll admit even I was a little surprised, I wasn't expecting it but these EV's love that kind of backcountry road travel. On the freeway they suck energy just like ICE, especially when driving into the wind. Well I'll tell you anyhow 😅That exact same scenario with an (Silverado or Sierra) EV adds 25 minutes. But in compensation, at home you never have to drive to the gas station and fill up since you charge off the house. Free in my case since I have solar. Over the course of the year I think it comes out ahead, time wise. When traveling I'm happy to get a longer break personally, but to each his own. Things have changed quickly, as they do with technology. My truck has 500 mile range not towing freeway driving, 375 miles freeway towing, depending on conditions of course. If you like off grid camping, with an EV you get essentially unlimited silent power. I charged up the house batteries off the truck while everybody else ran noisy generators. As for charging being undependable and scarce, that's no longer an issue. Last and this year especially the networks have been throwing it in at a ferocious pace. We just drove 6k miles to pick up the trailer without a single charging issue, or a single problem finding it. Even in the deep south, hey even little Hohenwald has fast chargers! But public fast charger infrastructure is in the knee of the 'S curve' of technology adoption. Just as happened with gas stations in the early 20th century. Anyhow on the Pebble OP, IMO it's solving a problem that has already been solved. On another forum a member bought one, they're getting 1.7 mi/kWh with the Pebble. But I get 1.3 mi/kWh with the Oliver - so it's a lot of expense, complication for little benefit. Oliver isn't kidding when they say it's an aerodynamic trailer, in ideal conditions it's a 35% loss which compares favorably with the usual 50% loss you'll see with other trailers.

Hey @shhQuiet just wanted to let you know your videos were a major source of inspiration in my purchase over the last couple years. I'm nearing retirement, but as seems to happen things have been getting more intense at work (micromanaging), and lets just say I was having a pretty hard time of it leading into everything coming together and picking up my trailer at the factory last month. Your camping style is similar to mine and the low key non scripted videos of you just doing your thing was a mental salve. Not only that, since we're in California with no dealers we needed to make a 6k+ trip out to Tennessee and camp back, which was a bit of a big deal since we hadn't done this type of camping before (I used to backcountry hike and car camp on fishing trips with my dad). I used your videos to help the initial planning, we stayed at Meriweather, then went on to Davis Lake near Tupolo. My wife was pretty skeptical, shall we say, of this whole adventure. I showed her your videos of these campgrounds to smooth over the concerns. Anyhow looking forward to continuing to follow along, thanks for sharing.

HERE is a new video from Oliver featuring Aaron Wolters. Bill

They will make them any thickness or firmness level you choose. We opted for 9.5” which is the standard thickness for this model of mattress. We liked the feel of the mattress in the showroom, so we opted not to change it. These are very firm. We have one of their all natural latex mattresses in the house that is 12” thick with a pillow top. It is as plush as can be. Latex is extremely heavy and floppy, so I don’t think it would be a good choice for the trailer. Im really not sure how or if they ship out of state, but check out their website and shoot them an email. I could drop off my original cushions @ the showroom as a template if someone decides to order a set.

Welcome and Congrats from Hull #1045, Jolli Olli

Nice, congratulations on the new 2026! I just picked up mine at the factory as there's no dealers nearby.

On communication issues my experience buying a new trailer was similar. Our bank operates differently from what they're used to, they wanted to talk directly with Oliver and get some information. I had communicated that many times months previously but it just didn't register. I forwarded emails from the bank requesting information, three different people saw this email but same problem. I discovered all this when I arrived, it was pretty frustrating. I'll say the Oliver people I worked with were all great, we got it sorted out, but in the end we had to do all the work with the bank that should have done earlier. We spent three nights at the Oliver campground doing this, but no worries, we needed the time anyhow and I had built in a buffer to our trip so no problems. Later at home I found a second issue going over the paperwork with the charges, service had charged for work that was already paid for on the main invoice, almost $1k worth. I caught it, when I alerted them they were great at getting it corrected. But yes, advice is absolutely triple check everything. The people are great, super nice, do top notch work, but communication is an area that can be improved.

This valve has been standard equipment since 2008.

Custom Comfort Mattress info can be found HERE Bill

Can't they make a mattress these days that isn't so thick? Regardless - I really do like the look of these. Can you give us any details (i.e. contact info, how do they ship or do you have to pick them up, price, choices of thickness and/or firmness, etc.). Bill

I bought one from someone off of a FB group. I bought it because it was a great deal. It came with a piece of high density foam that perfectly fills the gap. I have yet to do this, but I plan on splitting the foam into 2 pieces and upholstering them into 2 separate cushions that will match the dinette cushions. we haven’t used it yet, but I can tell you that it squeaks like crazy, and it blocks the drawer from pulling out of the night stand by being about 0.25” too tall. These are both easy fixes, but kind of a hassle. In my opinion it’s not the most elegant solution. It’s kind of bulky and heavy.

Those look very nice!

We got tired (pun intended) of sleeping on the stock cushions. We had some custom mattresses made. They are 9.5” thick, and very easy to move around when accessing plumbing/electrical. They are high density foam, so much lighter than latex. These are firm, and amazing. Custom Comfort Mattress in Southern California

Just ordered mine at O'Reilly's. Supposed to be in next week. June 1st for spring and shock replacement

Can you imagine the carnage that would result on a mountain road, on a hair pin curve, going down hill.... if that center bolt fell out? EZ Flex floppin around down by the tires, causing the axles to imediately be out of alignment flipping one way then the othe being only held back by two shackle bolts fore and aft on one side...... for me the one word answer is "carnage". BTW you are not alone on this topic. PM me if you want the back story. GJ

I have a 2020 model with the Norcold. I have attached some service manuals I found that might be of help. I found them back when I changed out a power board. Hope they help. I never tried doing what you are doing. Norcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdfNorcold board diagnostic.pdf Norcold Service Manual.pdf Norcold power board changeout.pdf

Wish John Davies was still producing engineering level threads on here. 😉 Anyway, pulled trailer from storage after 10 months and getting no DC or AC power to the panel. AC plug is live. Fuses and breakers are good. Found a reference on the Oliver FB page which led me to a ChatGPT finding. Anyone pulled the panel in a circa 2020 trailer with a Norcold? For your Oliver, the most realistic no-fridge-removal approach is: Method 1: Front trim/clip release Kill all power: unplug shore power turn off trailer battery/disconnect shut off propane Open the fridge door. Inspect the eyebrow trim above the door very closely: look underneath for small slots near the left and right ends use a thin plastic trim tool or very small flat blade wrapped in tape Gently release one side, then the other. Do not pry hard in the center first. These old plastic eyebrow pieces can crack. Once the trim/cover is off: remove any screws retaining the control module pull the panel forward just enough to expose the harness unplug and swap the panel This is the most likely path if your model uses snap tabs. Method 2: Hidden-screw version Some Norcold eyebrow assemblies have: screws under a decorative strip screws behind edge trim/seal areas In those cases remove the decorative trim strip first expose screws pull panel forward disconnect harness and replace board/panel

I misspoke about the switch. It is mostly recessed, very little actually protrudes above the faceplate. It can be bumped off, just not as easily.

Absolutely, but warranty work is another matter. (And, to be fair, Oliver has an excellent warranty.)

The owners manual says that it actually turns off the surge protector function. I have a small piece of black foam in the switch recess to prevent accidentally turning the surge protector off.

If you want things done right, … (you know the rest)!

Does it actually turn the EMS off, or just the display?

Thanks @mountainoliver, that was the problem. My display is in the basement/trunk and I couldn't see the switch until I put a flashlight on it. My switch also is not recessed, it sticks out, so something must have bumped it on the road. Thanks again, Tony

Roger: I note the amount of corrosion in your picture. I don't know where you live or operate, but for a 2021 trailer it could use some corrosion control efforts. Especially the axle tube. GJ

We just returned from our third trip to the factory service center for warranty work and the same problem presented itself again: poor communication. In this case, they were to repair a gelcoat crack near the water heater and do a visual brake inspection. They had the trailer for 2 days. When we arrived at the factory for pickup at 4:30 on the second day I asked the service writer one specific question, "Did you remove the water heater to fix the fiberglass?" I asked this because it had looked to me that the WH would have to come out to address the crack, but the service writer said no, they didn't take out the water heater. Surprised, I double checked, "I don't have to refill my water heater tank?" Again, he said, "No." When we moved to our site for the night, I discovered fresh caulk all around the water heater and an empty WH tank. This is important because, if we had turned our electric water heater on with the tank empty, we would have destroyed the electric heating element. We absolutely should have been told the tank was empty, and if the service writer wasn't sure, he should have checked with the tech. (The tech was smart, though, and did turn off the WH breaker.) Also, I saw the tech's notes on the counter while we were waiting for our paperwork and he noted that we needed new shocks and bushings. I asked the service writer about that, he looked at the notes, and said it "doesn't mean anything." But, when I looked under the trailer later, the bushings were, indeed, badly cracked. Oliver had the trailer for 2 days. I'm surprised they didn't call and ask if I wanted new shocks while it was in their shop waiting for the resin and gelcoat to set. This poor communication at the shop (communication by email/phone before the visit has always been fine) continues a pattern going back to our first warranty trip in 2023. In that case, we went to pick up our trailer after 2 days and found that one of the major items it was in for wasn't even addressed. Overall, we had become so frustrated with service issues that we mailed a letter to Scott Oliver prior to this visit expressing our frustrations and concerns, hoping things would go better this time. We never received a response. Bottom line for us: factory service is hit or miss. We've had some good work there (the fiberglass repair looks great), but there have been serious communications miscues, too. If you need to get service done at the factory, we recommend you keep careful records of all communications and check and verify all work done and everything you're told. Trust but verify.