All Activity

I am not a Truma guy, but PLEASE submit a ticket to OTT on this. In my eyes this is a clear safety issue as unrestrained movement of this machine could impace one of the gas lines down there and cause a BOOM with your family personally involved. GJ

You are sounding more and more like a potential canidate for the OTT Rabbit Hole Society! 🙂 I love it.... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ For sure when mine dies. No need to rush into this on my end. However, I'll be monitoring your wonderful results to make sure that your cables and the 50 amper holds up with the high voltage drop issue still out there. Bottom line I'm thrilled with the efforts for all of us. You and Geoff are "Pathfinders" on this topic, and others, for sure! GJ

This past summer, my iPhone XR died while in northern Idaho. Without it, my 2019 F-150 navagation was useless. I pulled out my RV 780 which fortunately I had updated during the summer of 2025. It work wondefully. Hopefully Garmin will continue to allow updates and support battery upgrades. GJ

Oddly, ours did as well. It seemed like pretty soft strapping material.

Ours did the same thing, hull #1373. I replaced and added additional screws on the sides. We'll see if they hold up longer than the original strap.

During winterization (which makes me sad but thats a different topic), I found the strap holding the Truma water heater had broken on both sides in very symmetrical locations. Easy to splice on a new strap but how did the failure happen? I suspect these are fatigue failures and thus that same strap material is the wrong fix. I also am not completely certain of the complete purpose of the strap other than to restrict the back of the water heater from jumping around. Thoughts?

Yes it is. I have been using it for a year and I have been quite pleased with it. It may be the 10th Garmin that I have owned. I have not noticed the issue of only being offered the 'fastest route', but I don’t think I am on the new load that @topgun2 has referenced above. Mossey

I leave all of our Victron products on all the time. I have breakers for everything under the dinette seat, didn't want extra switches. I'm not saying this is the right way. We also leave our Outside Courtesy Lights on 24x7 (rodent deterrent). Everything on we burn about 1.75A. About 1A for the MP2, 0.25A for the lights and 0.5A for all other electronics ON or on standby. The rooftop solar replenishes this much even on cloudy days. The last thing you want is to be towing down the highway and think, "oops, I forgot to turn on the Orion!" I've read here about some turning off their LevelMate to save batteries. Same thing, you're backing into a campsite and realize the LevelMate is OFF, bummer. We have the PRO model hardwired, always ON. I also have our Victron MPPT SC always ON. It's for the suitcase solar that we rarely use but when I plug in the solar cables it wakes up the SC. Am I hurting the SC leaving it on standby? IDK, but ours has been ON for two years now. Our hull has a power switch for the rear camera. This would be another circuit where just when you need it, it would be OFF! I never used the cameras anyway and have since removed them. Geoff has posts where he added timers to some of his devices, allowing the time-out to switch power off. Lot's of good solutions and things to think through before the installation.

DONE - SOLVED - Yay! I hope Bob gets theirs working asap! So glad I took time to add those screenshots. Geoff read them and had the answer. I understand most of it but it's confusing! Turns out I had the Engine Shutdown Detection at the default settings (see pic, left frame). I had adjusted the battery charge settings but nothing else. Not sure why it was running better, then not, since looking back at my pics during installation I'm pretty sure now the Orion was always at these defaults. Taking into consideration what Geoff wrote and the YouTube video, I set mine to Standard Alternator and then when I changed individual voltage settings it's then called User-Defined. The new settings chosen are also pictured (center frame). She's running better than ever! Before I was getting about 42A when towing. Now I'm getting that at idle. I held the pedal to bring the diesel idle up at 1600 RPM and the Orion moved up to a 46A output. For some reason (?) the Input Voltage shown on the app is the same number as the selected Shutdown Voltage. It was 13.1V, now 12.8V and I changed it to 12.7V it did the same thing. Then I set it back to 12.8V. The Klein clamp ammeter showed the same numbers as the app. I measured all three 4 AWG wires at the Orion. I found Input Amps - Output Amps was equal to the approx 4A reading for the Orion Ground Wire. The 4A must be the current the Orion is using in doing the work of the DC-DC charger. The Orion 50A charger during tests today and yesterday got just slightly warm to the touch. I could leave my hand completely over it for as long as I wanted. Yes, @Geronimo John and others might want to upgrade to the 50A given your 30A charger is truly getting hot!

As I stated, I don't believe this has anything to do with the actual Xantrex Freedom 3000. The inverter breaker has been a PIA and that is why Oliver switched to a large fuse. I have chosen to live with the breaker for now. I carry 2 spares. After running our Lithonics batteries down to 50% and shutting everything down for the winter, I put a wrench to the nuts and found everything tight. If I was to make an upgrade, I would make some of the changes David Austin made. He did a complete system upgrade from AGM/wet batteries to Epoch Lithium Batteries. He has a very detailed post on this.

Yes, this is the easiest way to implement that option, in my opinion, at least until someone comes up with a better approach. You've definitely got my wheels turning again. I had pretty much settled on the manual switch route, but after reading the discussion and thinking through the pros and cons, I may still end up going with the hardwired Engine ON detection option after all. I need to stop talking about it and get out there and run some wires. Seriously, the more I discuss a project, the less likely I am to have to do it twice. I've learned that spending time planning and bouncing ideas off others is usually much cheaper than discovering a better way after everything is already installed.

I agree and had intended to mention that earlier. With the hardwired Engine ON detection option, there is no need to spend time fine-tuning the voltage parameters. I considered going that route, but my plan is to leave that feature disabled and instead wire the Orion through a manually operated switch that is easy to access. That will allow me to disconnect the charger whenever needed. There is little benefit to having the Orion enabled while boondocking for a week, even though it is disconnected from the tow vehicle. The manual switch would also provide an additional layer of protection against battery discharge when stopping for the night and not disconnect the trailer from the TV. I also plan to connect the cooling fan from Mobile Solar Consulting for the 50-amp Orion charger to the same double-pole switch. That way, both the charger and cooling fan can be enabled or disabled together with a single switch.

Spot on. At the time running my #4 cables was costly in time and materials. The 100' length of cable for a 70 amp unit would be super heavy and off the charts expensive. I'll be staying with my 30 amp and cables at least until it dies. Then relook at the actual performance of the 50 amp unit with the same cables. So GO JD to figure it out for me. LOL In the mean time I will be moving my negative wire over to the fender stud, adding my twin spare set of refer fans under my Orion, and resetting the Victron settings per the "Rabbit Hole" attachment. For any ownere with or considering DC to DC, I think this thread has documented some really sage info to make the process easier and more effective. GJ

JD: That's one way to get there. I did not connect mine, but am rethinking it. Let's consider putting to better use the truck OEM charge battery cable that we all disconnected in the past for the Litho's. Just enable it to pass back thru the existing 7-wire connection and redirect it to the Orion. That line is hot only when you need it for this purpose. GJ

John, what a detailed and accurate summary. Thank you for taking the time to lay it all out so clearly. The recent introduction of the 70-amp Orion XS adds another layer of complexity for installers. It provides even more charging capability, but it also raises additional questions regarding wire sizing, voltage drop, fuse selection, alternator capacity, heat management, and overall system design. What was already a somewhat confusing topic for many owners with the 30-amp version has become even more complicated with another high-output option now available. Fortunately, I believe 50 amps of charging while driving is all I will ever need, and I'd prefer not to be pushed into upgrading the alternator. Depending on how things perform in real-world use, I may end up using the Orion's settings to limit the current draw on my 50 amp to a lower value.

Carpenter, I just saw your post. I agree, I wouldn't want to store gasoline or a generator inside the truck topper either. I want to check with my better half before committing, but we may be willing to part with our front aluminum tray. Since we have the Sea Biscuit storage box, I don't see us switching back. Send me a message and we can work out the details.

Dean: Good response above. Glad you are going with the 50 A version. Although I stated in several places in my post about the equipment I have for DC/DC charging another reminder to owners to double check numbers and settings for THEIR gear. You chart is a huge eye opener about voltage drop. All of the below is based upon a 100' out and back distance. Looking at the numbers for the older 30 amp vs. the newer 50 amp is great. But the calculation understates the problem of using too small cables: With use of oversized cables in an ideal world, both units could produce their rated outputs. But in the real world we need to remember there are losses that will be incurred. With oversized cables and Orion individual efficiency of operation: At the TV batteries the 50 amp version input will likely pull just a bit more amps due to its very high efficiency. But the 30 amp version with it's much lower efficiency will pull a lot more amps at the TV battery. With oversized cables, I'm guessing in the real world, at the TV battery the 50 amp would be pulling about 53 amps. The 30 amp unit would pull 38 amps. To more accurately calculate the wire size one would need to use the estimated 54 amps or 40 amps for the two calculations. When we add in the degrading factor of the 100' actual resistance losses, the Orion units output will be decreases and the input from the TV will be increased. So what practicle conclusions can we derive from this? Here are a few that my pea brain is pondering: Your great chart is overly kind. Assuming 100' of cable, very high grade copper wire, and excellent terminations: The wire size for the 30 Amp output Orion should be 2 AWG (minimum) and 1/0 preferred. For the 50 Amp output Orion it should be 1/0 (Minimum) and 2/0 preferred. That for the negative cable, one should always use an out and back cable design vs using the truck and trailer frames as conductors. That using #4 AWG cabling with a 50 amp Orion is not going to get anywhere close to the rated 50 amp amperage to the TV...... unless the cables are also upgraded. In my case of my three year installed 30 Amp Orion, 100' of very high grade copper cable #4 cables, with the unit mounted under the fore port seat; I must remove the cover and cushions AND add supplemental fans under the Orion. And then I'll likely see the unit stay on, but still only produce a bit over 20 amps contineous. And that is fine now that I understand why I'm not going to get close to 30 amps. In summary, the reality of phisics that you, Geoff, and JD have made clear is just what it is. And I thank each of you for taking the time to help me understand why. GJ

Thanks, Geoff. I'll hook up again soon to check settings and tweak the numbers. Installation was March of 2025 and I just checked my write-up where unfortunately I didn't document anything on the Orion XS configuration. To learn more about this I just watched a few YouTubes. This one was the most thorough. @Olive2Roam should check this too as there is a Smart Alternator setting and he discusses how they can run very low voltage. Also discussed in the video is having an ignition wire connection (hot only when key is in ON position) to the switch on the Orion. This might be the perfect fix for a smart alternator so that engine shut-off detection can be turned off. This is hardwire engine ON detection which means running a light gauge ignition wire from TV to TT, having another connection at the rear bumper. Strange how Bob's setup and mine were running just fine for a year or so and then not. Did Victron notify us and we both uploaded a firmware change that reset settings to factory defaults? It shouldn't do that but I'll soon note my current settings.

One followup thought about your product choice for pure dehumidificaiton: Typically, our OE2 is stored 7 to 8 months off season (November to June) in a dark barn on top of an OK mountain. I have used Arm and Hammer for one year and DampRid for 8 years. DampRid from my use has provn far superior for us. I noted your picture and for grins checked what AI thinks. GJ

This sounds similar to the Google map navigation which seems greatly degraded over the course of this summer. I was considering buying a Garmin... It does state on the website, "RV 795 considers the size and weight of your RV then finds a recommended route1. And you can save profiles for multiple vehicles or trailers." The footnote #1 says, "Not available in all areas. Entering your RV or trailer profile characteristics does not guarantee your RV’s characteristics will be accounted for in all route suggestions. Always defer to all posted road signs and road conditions." @mossemi isn't this the current version of the unit you showed me?

Has anyone used the GM camera system - You purchase the GM camera package (GM Auxiliary Trailer Camera (Part #85825715) that plugs into vehicle wiring system adjacent to the 7 pin. If so, how did you route the wire, and how does the system work for you?

Jd, nice test! The inverter was carrying both loads, roughly 3,000–3,300 W AC after losses. The 3,290 W DC on the shunt side was before inverter losses. That’s about 125–135% of the Victron’s 2,400 W continuous rating. Impressive, though a short test doesn’t show it can hold that load over its continuios rating for long. For comparison, the Xantrex Freedom is rated 3,000 W continuous at 104°F (the Victron is 2,200 W at the same temperature), so the Xantrex would carry that same load within its continuous rating. Where the Victron has a debatable edge, is with the low-voltage cutoff. At 12.17 V, a Xantrex set to the recommended 12.1 V would likely trip, especially with any extra wiring resistance, while the Victron’s lower load-compensated cutoff voltage keeps going. That’s the real design difference. But keep in mind that Lithionics batteries shut themselves off at 12.0 V, and other batteries are in that close range. The Xantrex at 12.1 V trips first and leaves the 12 V lights on, while an inverter with a low cutoff runs until the battery shuts everything down. You’re a great ambassador for Victron, and I agree they make excellent equipment. Its higher efficiency and PowerAssist are nice features, and its heavy transformer handles surges well, which is also why it weighs about twice as much. Both can briefly surge to about double their rating. But I’m reluctant to recommend a Victron inverter replacement over the Xantrex for the typical Oliver owner’s use profile, particularly because of the controls. Without the more expensive Cerbo system, Victron’s optional display is fairly basic, and the Bluetooth needs a separate dongle. The Xantrex has a nicer graphical display with built-in bluetooth. I personally prefer a display with switches over an app, and I think most folks want the panel convenience to switch the inverter off when not in use to conserve power. I just think folks should fully understand the differences to make an informed decision, and I think that Oliver made the right decision to choose Xantrex in the first place. Cheers! Geoff

I read every word of the article and found it extremely useful, especially since I'm currently installing a DC-to-DC charger in my 2019 Ford Lariat with the factory tow package. The information was well presented and made a lot of sense. I'm still using my original 2019 battery and had already planned to replace it this winter. One thing I learned from the article was the need to perform a BMS reset after battery replacement, which was new information to me. A word of caution for anyone reviewing the article and applying the results to their own installation. The voltage drop calculations were based on a 30-amp charger. If you're considering a 50-amp charger, the voltage drop increases significantly compared to the 30-amp charger. This will change the wire size requirements and/or Orion input parameters. See the AI-generated information below for a comparison. (Since I am in the process of my installation, I have decided to use 1/0 AWG for my Orion 50 amp installation.) AI Overview To calculate the exact voltage drop for a 50-foot one-way run pulling 50 amps on a 12-volt system, you must look at the wire size (gauge) being used. Because DC circuits require a complete loop (a power wire and a ground return wire), the total electrical distance is a 100-foot round trip. [1, 2] An acceptable voltage drop for general applications is under 5%, and under 3% for critical or sensitive electronics (like DC-to-DC chargers or lithium batteries). Here is how different copper wire sizes perform under these exact conditions: [1, 2] Wire Gauge (AWG) Voltage Drop (Volts) Voltage Drop (%) Voltage Remaining at Trailer Recommendation 6 AWG 2.46 V 20.46% 9.54 V Unacceptable. Severe voltage drop; equipment will malfunction. 4 AWG 1.54 V 12.83% 10.46 V Poor. Exceeds maximum 10% tolerance for heavy loads. 2 AWG 0.97 V 8.08% 11.03 V Borderline. Acceptable only for highly resilient equipment. 1/0 AWG 0.61 V 5.08% 11.39 V Good. Reaches the industry standard 5% limit for generic loads. 2/0 AWG 0.48 V 4.03% 11.52 V Excellent. Optimal choice to minimize loss over this distance.

Jd, from those screen shots, I’m seeing the system working as it should. Before calling Nations Starters, check the Orion’s settings. Your screenshots show the input sitting at about 13.1 V, which is exactly the Orion’s default engine shutdown voltage for a smart alternator. When the input reaches 13.1 V, the Orion cuts its current to hold the voltage there (frame 3), and if it stays below 13.1 V for a minute, then it decides the engine is off and stops charging. At idle you’re losing about 0.45 V between the truck and the Orion at 30 amps load, which is about right for a long #4 run. The voltage drop will increase with load. Try lowering the shutdown voltage to about 12.9 V. You could also lower the input current limit in 5 amp steps to find a happy spot, but it might also lower the current while towing at higher RPMs. Anyway, It’s probably not a failing Orion or alternator, just settings that are tight for idle charging. If you catch the app when the charger shuts off, then you can also check the “Why is the charger off?” message for more clues. You're on the right track! Geoff

We have a Garmin RV 780 that has been discontinued. Use it mostly to find campgrounds, but it has many neat features. https://www.garmin.com/en-CA/p/660527/ Here's the current Garmin RV navigator: https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/850475/