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I have to work on the road and the dinette is taken over by a piano keyboard. Most of my work on the iPad but I need to use a laptop which is on the bed, but cable and peripheral management is a pain, but I found a small mod, hide the electronics under the bed with a Froli system street side bed Turns out typical power supplies and smaller electronics like SSD’s and a Thunderbolt hub you see here fit perfectly under the Froli springs. Add in the anti-dew matting and there’s plenty of airflow, plus it keeps your bed warm 😅 The Froli’s lift the bed up a good amount, it was so low before as to be somewhat claustrophobic. With the matting it doesn’t add much except oddly makes it a bit firmer, which is good with these overly squishy mattresses IMO. Anyhow in the lower right is a small power strip, so all that emerges is a plug to the nearby socket. Two cables (power and thunderbolt) tuck next to the mattress, add in a lap table and it can instantly be setup to work. I was hiding this stuff in the battery cubby but its was messy with cables snaking out.

I need to work on the road, the dinette is too small and is taken over by a piano anyhow Sorry for the late reply missed this … The OEM recommendations (Oliver in this case) always override the tire manufacturer, Oliver’s spec is 65. We can argue if that’s a good spec on first principles but I don’t think we can or should use a generic recommendation from Goodyear Yes absolutely, but it’s different systems working together. The suspension will do its job and ideally filter a different band than what the tire filters - that’s my point. If they overlap then you’ve got suckouts in your coverage, whats the point of that? Excellent! I was wondering if somebody would catch this. Well since we don’t have data its all handwaving, but my expectation is that a properly sprung Alcan would have a higher frequency extension, which would make the case for higher PSI. Basically Statics 101 tells you that undersprung == lower natural frequency Yeah its pretty clogged up. This is kind of my blog and I treat it as such so 🤷‍♂️

I don't *think* the 2022 models had the Victron charge controller yet. Our early 2023 was supposedly the first year they became standard equipment, but some 2022 models had 2023 components early. When I was first investigating upgrades, I considered moving the external solar port wires over to the inbuilt charge controller. Then run the two solar arrays in parallel. The first obstacle, was of course the amperage/voltage limitations of the charge controller. I'd need to swap to a larger model to get what I wanted. But more importantly, and something I was not aware of, is that the 2023 rooftop panels are 400W at a rated 24V DC, not 12V. And when I checked Victron's site for information, I learned that mixing panel voltages causes the charge controller to default to the lower voltage. So the 24V 400W panels would be operating at 12V 400W instead. As have many others here, I elected to temporarily build a portable box with an appropriately sized Victron charge controller, fuse, etc., and plug that into the external solar port. My intention is to eventually replace the SAE type port with an Anderson plug, and run a second internal charge controller, allowing me to use the full output of my 400W 24V DC rooftop panels, and my three 200W 12V DC portable panels.

Our original Furrion solar port was rated for 10 amps. It was OK with one 100W panel, but did not have enough rated capacity to handle two 100W solar suitcases. Decided to modify the original Furrion 10A solar port to handle 20 amps by installing a Zamp 20 amp port in the existing Furrion port. Should have used the Zamp port to start with. Modified Furrion solar port 20 amps:

I saw that mentioned in another post. Seems I will need to schedule time to drive down to see this new Oliver. Lower price - seems counter to today's world. If I were to design a small Ollie, based upon my owner experience, I doubt it would be cheaper.

This is correct in that you will need an additional solar charger. It is not recommended to have one controller for panels of different makes and wattage and adding 400W is just too much for your OEM controller. We run the Renogy 400W suitcase and added a Victron 30A MPPT SC. The new SC should be very close to your batteries, connected with heavy gauge wire. We used 8 AWG 1-2 foot length to the +/- buses. Wire from your suitcase to the SC can be light. 12 AWG is required for 400W. I used 10 AWG since Lowes had a crazy sale on some at the time. Wire costs a lot today, but labor hours are worse when hiring a solar installer. It's not a difficult installation. I made my own cables for cost savings, but you can buy any kind of cable with custom premade terminals here: https://powerwerx.com/wire-cable

You TEASE YOU!.... seriously.. you need to stop that.

Just came off a 10-day trip to Colorado. Thank goodness this started on our last night. The green LED showing 12V+ to the water pump went off by itself and the water pump stopped working. Checked the fuse in the panel and it was good. The issue was intermittent. Switching the under-pantry switch an hour, later the green light appeared and Chris got a chance to wash dinner dishes! Later that night nothing again but just in time for morning bathroom use it worked, yay! (We had planned to wash and flush manually using gallon water jugs.) So we're home a couple days and it was time to fix this. I remembered Geoff's explanation above, found it and studied it again. Actually the schematic he drew in his 4-way switch post really got me to fully understand the 3-way switch (I studied his picture without the 4-way addition). I had remembered this key phrase "No ground wires are involved in these switches." So my first thought is I need a ground for testing. Can't check voltage with a multimeter without a ground. So I cut a 12 ft length of wire, stripped one end and connected it to the ground bus under the dinette seat. I crimped a butt connector on the other end to make it easy to accept the multimeter pin. With this test wire I have a ground source anywhere I need inside the cabin. I decided to leave this test wire connected for future testing when needed (pic1 notice the yellow/red-striped wire now coiled up under the rear dinette). I tucked it underneath in an empty corner below. I found 13.2V at both 3-way switches. Then I used my trust spade jumper to first check for continuity between the travelers which tested positive (pic2). Then I used the same jumper to connect the Common wire to the Traveler on the bathroom switch (not pictured, the common/purple wire connected to either traveler). This pulls that 3-way switch out of the equation. The jumper creates a closed circuit, an ON condition for this 3-way switch. As soon as I did so the water pump was back to working. This shows the issue is the 3-way switch in the bathroom (or bad connections) as had been suggested in this thread. Notice, I'm using the 3 spade terminals on thee left (pic3). The wires were on the RH terminals. They had gotten a little crusty in 10 years of use and notice the top-right spade is bent, in fact the female connector on that traveler was very loose. The switch works fine now. The connections were loose but now clipped to the left side spades the connections are snug. I added some electrical tape to hold all 3 wires as a unit and then duct tape to hold the wires down, to take the weight of the wires and vibration while towing off the switch (pic4). This should keep the connections tight. I know to look at the bathroom switch first if ever again we loose power to the water pump. I've got the testing procedure down and wire/jumpers I need. I made a bag of extra crimp parts and 30 ft more wire in case I ever need to run both +/- wires for testing (positive buses also in picture). Not fun when something happens while camping. We've had very few such cases and like to keep it that way! 😎

Attached article on building a solar add on for the Olivef with specific instructions on the zamp connection polarity. https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/here-comes-the-sun?blogcategory=Electrical+Upgrades

We stayed a few days at Wallowa Lake SP, OR on our way back from our PNW trip last year. Quite peaceful and scenic!! Mike

Thanks for the input guys! I will likely reach out to a solar installer to see about upgrading the wiring on the zamp port and potentially installing a charge controller inside the camper for that system. As mentioned here the ability to track the sun at a better angle allows those 400 watt panels to pull 50-100 more watts than the roof mounted solar on the camper. 2 days ago I used it with my anker f2600 solar generator and was able to pull up to 325 watts for quite a while in morning sun.

From a different forum where I posted an estimation of towing costs, for the Oliver of EV versus Diesel, using today’s prices. The Unit Cost is the averaged national average for both, and of course while fuel costs are highly variable, charging base cost doesn’t change, except there are various discounts. For example GM keeps giving me $50 free charging credits, they run sales (Ionna ran a Labor Day sale of something like 20 cents/kWh), but AFAIK fuel never goes on sale. Also this is just for towing trips, when at home of course you’ll charge off whatever your rate it, basically free for me with lots of solar. Metric Diesel Truck Electric Truck Baseline Efficiency (Unladen) ~18.0 MPG ~2.0 miles / kWh Efficiency with 40% Loss 10.8 MPG 1.2 miles / kWh Total Energy Required 370.4 gallons 3,333.3 kWh Assigned Unit Cost $6.00 / gallon $0.40 / kWh Total 4,000-Mile Cost $2,222.22 $1,333.33

On our way to the rally. 4 stops so far Plymouth Wa COE Wallowa Lake SP OR Farewell Bend Rec Area OR Three Island Crossing SP -Glenns Ferry ID Roses Great Grandpa was a wagon master for 6 crossings here on the Oregon Trail before stopping in Idaho as a settler.

The shoulder I was talking about was on the inner side, between the spring and hanger, caused by the inner bronze bearing. Anyhow I checked with Gemini which is pretty good for these kinds of things since it primarily trolls the internet I think we may be onto something - this feels correct and may have already been discussed (apologies if it has). So Dexter is trying to prevent over torquing and binding. Alcan solves it by being a stickler for torque and Nylock. I’ll take Alcan and argue with Dexters approach. Stepping down doesn’t prevent anything, a monkey can still over torque and bind it up. Can’t prevent installation error with that one IMO.

I've been told by VERY reliable sources that a "new" model Ollie (with a lower MSRP) will be introduced at the upcoming Owner's Rally. That's about all of the information I have. Bill

In 2023 (I assume it was the same in 2022) I purchased the optional 230-watt Zamp portable panel from Oliver with the trailer to add to my two 200W panels on the roof. I think 2023 was the last year they offered this panel and I believe Zamp moved toward smaller panels. The 230W suitcase is a bit of a beast to lug around, so I don't use it all the time. Of course, this plugs into the side port that you mention. Interestingly, because you can direct the portable panel toward the sun, it will often supply as many watts as the two roof top panels combined.

I've always hated the step down wet bolts. After installing a couple of dozen sets of springs using these, I will attest that easier installation is NOT the reason. They are a PIA to get that second shoulder to slip into the far side of the hangers. @Boudicca908 is delivering a complete set of new Alcan hardware to me at the Rally. Anyone who wants to see how this is done is welcome to come and watch (or help) as I plan to install them during the Rally.

You can safely put a maximum of 200 watts into the auxiliary Zamp solar port. It is polarity wired for a Zamp solar controller which is opposite of some controllers, so verify polarity of your panel and controller before plugging it in. Polarity reversing adapters are available for the Zamp port if needed. Your 400 watt panel would need a 30/40 amp controller, larger wiring, and a 30-40 amp fuse. Check panel rating plate and ask google to be sure.

I have a Zamp port on the street side of my 2021 model near the battery box. It’s rated for 20A max, but is equipped with a 10A blade fuse inside the trailer, which is a good match for my 140W portable Zamp panels. I have 340W panels on the roof. I’m not sure what the 2022 models have for side ports.

Does anyone know how many watts i can add to the system via the auxiliary solar port on the street side of the trailer? I have a 400 watt panel set up for my anker solar generator. I am curious if I could just use a charge controller in line and hook into the system? Or are the wires not rated for that much current? 2022 elite 2 with 400 watt roof solar and 360ah lithium batteries. Thanks in advance for any info.

Our previous Tundra's name was Stan 🙃, photo taken at W. Kerr Scott Dam and Reservoir,

Welcome! Soon we need to find Ollie in an Ollie! 😎

That's just funny "Where is Ollie" I just joined your forum and my real first name is Ollie. haha

We were asked in another thread or maybe pages back on this one, "What would we do differently?" (re Alcan) My answer is what Bob ended up doing. Instead of buying new EZ Flex separately I would have bought the full installation set including the Dexter shackles and wet bolts, and purchase only leaf springs and U-bolts from Alcan. (Bob answered this in another way.) The 1/2" nut on the 9/16" bolt creates the shoulder. Bob mentioned 40 ft-lbs that held and allowed for greasing. The 40 ft-lbs is torqued against the shoulder, creating a standard spacing for the leaf springs. There is no real force on the 1/2" nuts, they just hold the spacing constant. Oh yes the, 1/4" steel plate hangers on the frame do get pulled in, actually bend some from the torque of the 9/16" bolt. Try 80 ft-lbs on these bolts without the leaf installed between and you will clearly see them bend (but not a good idea to try). The shoulder bolts are the better design and perhaps after another 20K miles on the Oliver, I may purchase a new set. For now, instead of 80 ft-lbs on the end bolts, I went with 64. And instead of 65 on the inner wet bolts on the EZ Flex, I went with 52 ft-lbs. If you divide my numbers by Alcan's, you'll see I'm torquing to 80% of the Alcan recommendation (NOT the U-bolts, keep them at 90). I found the EZ Flex will still appear to hang when lifted but will not when weight loaded. Watch each axle both sides going slowly over some speed bumps in you neighborhood. If all is good, you should see the tires travel smoothly up and down. When I grease there's always one bolt on each side that must be loosened to accept grease, just one bolt but not all. Perhaps my 80% take is helping. I am reporting what I have done on our Oliver based on my feelings. Proceed with caution, make your own decisions in doing your work. I am NOT making recommendations for anybody else. With this warning, I accept no legal liabilities. I also use the stabilizer jacks to lift our hull. The manufacturer OTT does not recommend this practice.

You're welcome, Ron. Ours was too and there are a few reasons... The pull cable is very short and it turns 90 degrees. It's in an awkward place to pull, whether standing outside the bathroom, sitting on the can or wherever, you can't get a straight pull! And a gunked up waste valve blade will make it worse. You can remove the waste valve, clean and lube the blade, lube the cable and it could help. You can't change the 90 degree cable run and the awkward location of the pull handle. We love the new electric one! Without the cable, push the button and I can hear it open or close in just a second! Check my thread linked above if interested.