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The factory is currently churning out 10 trailers per month. Have you seen a lot of problems that might relate to the faster pace of construction, and by more mistakes being made on the construction line? My trailer has a LOT of issues; most are minor, some are normal teething pains and equipment failures. like the furnace ignitor going out and a dysfunctional light switch, but many are just screw ups that were not caught by an inspector before delivery. Some are serious safety issues that Oliver hasn't addressed yet, like self-loosening solar panel mount knobs! I give the trailer an A+ for hull and chassis design and general build quality. It tows like a dream, and looks luscious inside and out. The electrical wiring I give both a B+ (for the visible areas) and also a D (too many rats nests of unsecured wires in the "hidden" areas behind those round hatches). The interior design a B. There are some really irritating features that just don't make sense to me, like the beyond stupid fixed TV mount, the complete lack of access to the street side part of the rear storage area with the Twin Bed option, and the self opening drawers that mysteriously deposit your stuff on the floor as you drive. "Where did that spatula come from?!" The crappy RV appliances I give a D, and I am being charitable here; there are so many better choices, and I for one would be willing to pay a big premium for high quality and reliable marine appliances, both DC and diesel powered. How is your trailer doing, and have you been having many issues? FYI I am an ex-aircraft mechanic, and anal as can be, so most people would not be nearly as critical of problems found in their RV as I am. OTH, I can speak up for those who are too timid to voice their opinions ;) No harm is intended, in any way. I love the trailer... I just need to get it sorted. Working on it..... Thanks. John Davies Spokane WA

Karen here. I have TWO huge issues that make me regret paying $62,000+ and over $5000 in CA DMV taxes for my 2017 Lecacy Elite ll. OUR WATER TANK RUNS OUT AT 44% EVERY SINGLE TIME.@#$!×%&*!$# What I mean by that is at 44% the water from the faucets start sputtering, the water line starts shuttering and making a racket, the pressure drops drastically, the toilet water flushing is drastically reduced and if I am in the shower, hair full of shampoo and the water hits 44% I no longer have enough water and pressure to get the shampoo out and finish my shower. Reed has to go outside everytime at 44% to raise the front end so we can utilize the last 44% of the water. This also means the trailer is no longer level and the Dometic Refrigerator is now at risk of being damaged. It also means that when we are boondocking it drastically limits how long we can stay out or Reed has to take several trips in the car to fill up our water jugs to refill the Ollie above 44%. TO ME THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE AND I THINK OLIVER SHOULD CORRECT THIS IN MY RIG. Our $13,000 used 2010 Casita never did this. My second big gripe is that our kitchen drawers continue to open while traveling. This occurs on any road that has curves or bumps. And NO, Reed is not speeding when this occurs as someone implied on another thread. The first time it happed the drawers literally were on the floor when we stopped. Everything dumped out and broken drawers and hardware. Some drawers just had towels, others had cooking utensils, silverware and a frying pan. Oliver sent us new drawers but they still come open even after Reed has adjusted them all. We now have to take the seat cushions, put them on the floor and stack them against the drawers to keep them from opening while we are moving. THESE TWO ISSUES MAKE ME EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED AND WISHING WE HAD BOUGHT THE BIGFOOT. Bigfoot was my second choice becsuse I thought Oliver was better. The 3rd issue I have is that the igniter push button on my stove no longer works. So now I have to use a lighter to use my stove. I don't blame Oliver for this, they didn't make it. However, I need to now buy a better stove for Reed to replace. The 4th issue is I had to recaulk the bathroom around the shower pan because it was not done properly and water and dirt kept getting in the gaps creating a hassle to keep clean. My 5th issue is that one of the 12v ports only works intermittently, I pointed this out on day two to Oliver and they stuck a plug in it and said it works just fine. To me if you put the key in your car ignition and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't that is not fine. I use this port for my cpap because its at my head and it's frustrating as all get out when I put my mask on and it doesn't turn on and I have to keep pulling the plug out, reinsert it, wiggle it around over and over till it finally gets power again. No, it's not my cord, I know this because this doesn't occur when I use any other 12v port. I WAS THRILLED WE BOUGHT AN OLIVER. NOW I AM QUITE DISAPPOINTED.

My wife and I enjoyed this nice boondocking spot. https://freecampsites.net/#!1082&query=sitedetails

No solution from me - but - I did purchase several cans of ArmorAll Custom Shield coating (clear) to try on my trip out West this summer. The package says that it is easy to apply and remove and lasts for up to 3 months. Basically it is simply a film that is sprayed on and then after the trip you peel it off. We'll see and I'll report back here after (or during) the trip. Bill

Our unit has the same latches as yours, and yes they are the 'new' 2017 style. We like the latches. They work great. What we are a little 'disappointed' with is how tight a fit the cover is to the hull. It is difficult to remove because the front jack is so close. Even a little more clearance between it and the leveling jack would be a big advantage. We are about to put a 4" "inspection port" into the cover. They are only about $12.95 at the marine hardware store. We didn't opt for that $80 option from the factory. We had planned to put larger hatches on the side so we could put our blocks in there, but the factory changed the configuration of the space. A large outlet box, for the leveling switches, is now wired direct into the hull. Also the size of the box precludes moving the gas tanks forward. The supporting structure for the tanks seems to be so much better than pictures we have seen of previous units.

I had these problems for many years with both a 2010 F-150 and a 2015 F-150. Since the problem followed the vehicle change, I assumed that the issue was with the Ollie. I performed every troubleshooting technique I could find including replacing ALL ground wires in the Ollie, adding a ground between the trailer frame and the truck chassis, adding extra grounds from the individual brakes to the Ollie trailer ground, and getting the Ford dealer to run Service Bulletin # SSM 45236 (which, by the way, has since been superseded by SSMs 45508 and then 45803). All resistance and capacitance tests were OK. I even replaced the brakes with self-adjusting brakes and still no help, although the self-adjusting feature is really nice. I experienced many exasperating years of basically running around with little to no braking and not knowing if they would work or not when needed, not to mention the nuisance "trailer disconnected" messages and chimes that greeted me at every stop. On a whim one day, I changed the trailer setting in the F-150 from "electric brakes" to "electric over hydraulic brakes". VOILA! Good braking action and NO nuisance messages in the last 20,000 miles or so! Simple 1-minute fix that worked for me! P.S: About the time I got the 2010 F-150, I changed the third brake lights over from incandescent to LED and I believe it was about then that the troubles started. As pondered in other posts here, does the Ford brake controller have problems with the LEDs? It might explain why the "electric over hydraulic" setting worked for me.

We use two apps: Allstays and Ultimate US Public Campgrounds. We tend to look for state parks, county parks, and COE parks. Many have FHU. Some of the nicest campgrounds we've stayed at were state parks. We stay at commercial RV parks when there's nothing else. Once we find some possibilities we check RV Park Reviews to see ratings. Mike

I think I used some 14 gauge ROMEX that was hanging around. Make the 90° bend first (the rightmost bend in the foto) and then insert between the panes to get the right length for the next bend. The final shaping and the loop are easier done when removed. The overlap of the panes were not the same throughout the trailer so I made them all to accommodate the ones with the largest overlap.

LOL. We think alike. I intend to cut a 1.5" hole below and behind the sewer pipe end, so I can screw on a 90 degree brass garden hose elbow. It will stick down below the compartment a little. I can uncap the elbow, crack the grey valve an inch or two, and empty the tank slowly on forest roads while I tow. It should be slow enough that nobody seeing the water draining will panic and think I am dumping sewage. On a rainy day it would be invisible. John Davies Spokane WA