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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/01/2017 in all areas
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My list of modifications is getting longer and some of these seem pretty important. So I thought I'd start this thread. One of the first ones was the stainless steel countertop with Corian side splash and IKEA faucet: The next is the Heavy Duty suspension kit and 3200 lb Star Wheel upgrade. This was prompted by breaking a wheel and wanting greaseable suspension links. I broke one of the Oliver wheels while it was on another trailer and discovered how thin they are: The next next was the spare tire modification. Mine came with an undersized spare and to fit the full sized tire I had to go to a soft cover:3 points
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My porch lights started leaking very soon after we picked up our Oliver. Water was visible on the inside of the lenses and the bulb socket was beginning to rust a bit. I have the old style lights. Problem was in trying to fit a flat based fixture to a curved trailer. Unfortunately, silicone was used to "seal" the gaps. The job was not that well administered, with gaps in the bead and silicone residue smeared about.There is an old adage in the boating world about silicone: "Silicone sticks to nothing, and nothing sticks to silicone" Perhaps it has uses somewhere, but after 35 years of painting and construction, I still don't know where that is. It's a scourge to any finishing shop, and makes repairs much more involved. First, I removed the fixtures. They are chromed plastic (sigh) and impossible to clean without ruining the finish on them. I tossed them and bought new ones, luckily they are not too expensive. Next I used plastic razor blades and a citrus based adhesive cleaner to remove the bulk of the silicone that was on the gelcoat. It cleaned up well and looked clean but when misted with water the silicone oils which penetrated the pores of the gelcoat made the water bead up. So, more work to do. No sealant will stick to that for very long. I bought a can of Debond at West Marine here. I then bought 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit automotive sandpaper (3M). I was nervous to take sandpaper to my precious Ollie but I needed more to vanquish the silicone demon! I sprayed the Debond on the 1000 grit paper and wet sanded all around where the fixtures were mounted. I could tell instantly that it was working. Wiped the area clean and repeated with the 1500 grit, then the 2000. All silicone completely gone and just the very slightest loss of sheen to the gelcoat. I talked to Jason on the buffing products they use at the shop and he said they use Shurhold Buff Magic Compound. I bought a foam buffing pad here for my random orbit sander (Festool Rotex) and buffed/polished the area. To my relief, it blended in perfectly, and I am particular. With the area clean of contaminants and polished I reinstalled the new fixtures. I decided to use butyl tape for the sealant. I felt pretty confident that for this situation, it was the best material. But not all butyl tapes are created equal, by a wide margin. The product that kept coming up on all the boating forums was Bed-it Butyl Tape I can confirm that this is the best stuff I have ever used. Before installing the fixture. I had to re-drill the mounting holes that were way undersized, and then slightly countersink those holes. The gelcoat was badly fractured around the original holes, in a few spots, it just flaked off. Countersinking relieves the compression forces of the screw expanding the glass substrate, which would otherwise fracture the relatively brittle gelcoat. In a thru-bolt situation where there is no compression, the countersink also creates an extra space around the fastener where the butyl tape will be thicker allowing better expansion/contraction ability and a better weather seal. A very good article for those wanting to get deeper into this subject:https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/bedding-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/ I doubled up the tape top and bottom of the fixture to allow for the curve of the trailer, and added some extra bits where I thought they would be needed in the corners. I also, rolled up some small bits of tape and stuffed them in the enlarged screw holes. It was a warm summer day so no problem pressing the fixture tight to the trailer shell. Screwed down the fixture and with my plastic razor and a tiny bit of paint thinner, cleaned off the excess. A word of caution, try not to get any solvent on these chromed plastic fixtures, it messes up the finish. Next time I would tape off the fixture before installing it to make cleanup safer. As it was I did get a little discoloration to the chrome but not too bad. Finally a good coat of Collinite Fleet paste wax to the whole trailer and fixtures. What a difference! Also swapped out the clear lenses for the amber ones which I like better. Fixture with original silicone sealant above. You can see some of the fracturing of the gelcoat. The picture doesn't quite capture the flaking around the holes. Cleaned, polished, re-drilled and countersunk. Some of the chipping went beyond the countersink...but will be covered. Tape applied, holes filled with a small coil of tape. Fixture screwed down. Next time, I'll place the tape more carefully so there isn't so much to have to trim off, and carefully mask the fixture to protect it from solvent during cleanup. Final pic in next post. Guess I can only do three at a time....3 points
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We made it back from our month in Colorado (and Utah and Arizona). We had a great time and appreciate all the advice from everyone. I’ll post some pictures once we get used to being home. We enjoyed everything. Garden of the Gods is pretty amazing considering it’s a city park. The weather while we were at RMNP was great, some snow at the higher elevations but mostly sunshine and agreeable temps. We visited Estes Park and Breckinridge. Black Canyon NP was unique and well worth the visit. The Campground (South Rim) was close to the canyon and pretty well maintained. We visited Crested Butte while there. The drive through Montrose, Ouray, Silverton to Durango was scenic! Mesa Verde NP is historically fascinating, the Rangers there do a great job. We made a change at Mesa Verde and headed northwest to Moab instead of east to Sand Dunes NP to avoid some weather. In Moab we stayed at Horsethief Campground, which is BLM. It’s in between Canyonlands NP and Arches NP so we could see both while there. Moab is an interesting little town. Then we dropped south into Arizona and spent a couple of days at Petrified Forest NP before heading east to TX and home. The end result of the trip was a very dirty truck and trailer and a couple of big smiles. Mike3 points
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I have to agree with you John with many of your points. My biggest problems have been with email correspondence, where only one question in my email will be addressed and none of the others. My last email was about the fresh water tank retrofit. Jason asked if I was going to be around Tennessee (I live in Oregon), I said it might be a while, but do they offer a retrofit kit that I could install myself. Never heard back.... When I talk to Anita, or other office folks, it often sounds like we have a bad connection. Maybe they use headsets? Between the conversation cutting in and out and the accent (which I find lovely and have no problem understanding face to face), I have a hard time keeping up with the conversation. It's good to bring this up because the good will of Oliver's customers is worth more than most anything else. I love their trailers and all the folks there that I have met, but they do need to polish up their Customer Relations a bit. Better follow through correcting problems and clear and thorough responses to emails would be a good start. Dave2 points
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I, regretfully, have to agree. Sometimes the phone call gets answered by the sales office. It seems that someone has to start monitoring what they say. Maybe they are not as informed as they should be, or are reverting back to old ways. Calls seem to be getting lost there, or there is no follow through with their system. Richie Carroll, the new service manager, called me and said the system they were using for UPS, had lost my address to deliver to. I had been waiting for over ten days for parts to repair drawers. And, I had 3 showings, to potential customers. I am starting to feel a little embarrassed for them. Surely they have a folder somewhere with my address and other pertinent info. (One of the showings was to someone that had sold two Escapes, by showing his, and hopefully was upgrading to an Oliver {he also monitors this site}). A good thing I went and fixed my one damaged drawer on my own. I wasn't going to show a damaged product, at least not on my nickel...2 points
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They may be large file size pictures and take a while to upload.2 points
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Here is a great one that I learned from the Marine Industry: Viking Composite LP Tanks 22 Pounds each. Half the weight of steel tanks and they do not rust. Plus they are see-thru so you always can visually inspect your propane levels. Does require you to install an RV mount tray in place of the standard mount since these tanks have a flat bottom. Tanks were $149 each on Amazon and RV Mount is $40 direct from Viking Cylinder web store.2 points
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This mod will most likely create the most questions and I believe is the single most beneficial addition I could make to my Oliver. BTW prior to joining Apple, I lead mobility enterprise solutions for 10 years with AT&T and I know what really works and what is just a gimmick from a cellular and wifi booster reference standpoint. CradlePoint Cellular Router: COR IBR900 Series https://cradlepoint.com/ products/cor-ibr900-series Here is why: Enterprise Commercial-Grade hardware Supports LTE-Advanced (next generation Cellular protocol - next 3 years Future Proof) Supports SIM-Based Auto-Carrier Selection built in 2 SIM trays expandable to 4. Allows you to have either more than 1 Cellular Carrier (AT&T, Verizon, T-Mobile, Sprint, etc.) or allows you do double up on SIMs from same Cellular Carrier to prevent throttling back or exceeding data plan. Fully Ruggedized and built for vehicle vibration, temperatures, etc. Intelligent remote configuration via Cloud Access Redundant Power Capable WiFi: Dual-band, dual-concurrent WiFi (802.11 a/b/g/n/ac)* Wave 2 External Mounted Antenna: 3-in-1 GPS & Modem Screw-Mount https://cradlepoint.com/ products/accessories/3-1-gps- modem-screw-mount Amplifies Cellular & GPS Reception by a full 5 watts (Cellphone & Tablets only 0.5 watts) Significant improves cell & GPS signal reception thereby giving you stronger signal strength and increased bandwidth throughput. Gives you priority ranking of network vs. cellphones, tablets, & consumer hotspot devices. AT&T Data Plan (Unlimited +) You also have the option to buy program month to month or prepaid. Only subscribe when you need to use it or add it to family plan Allows you to use your home DIRECTV account with no charge against your Data Plan or you can subscribe to DIRECTV NOW if you do not have DIRECTV at home. https://www.att.com/bundles/ data-free-tv.html https://www.att.com/bundles/ directv-now-unlimited-plus. html The Cradlepoint router will work as the nerve center for your Oliver. Providing you constant and consistent wifi coverage in about 98% of the US. Also, it gives you the ability to jump from carrier to carrier via a webbed portal. Now that you have WiFi all the time you now have a connected RV. You can use wifi to place wifi calls, FaceTime calls Video or Audio only. Stream video, Music, gaming to your Trailer via laptop, iPad, iPhone, or AppleTV, and stream Over the Air Directv without data charges if you are an AT&T customer. I may use devices inside trailer like Nest Protect battery version (Smoke & CO2 detector). You can hook up WebCams, and other home automation products that run on WiFi. I'll also run my iPads of the trailers WiFi vs the iPads embedded cellular receiver because the trailers wifi will always have a stronger signal than the iPads embedded cellular antenna. I will also run my MacBook via the trailers WiFi which is great for working on the road.2 points
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Please post your experiences. I have had some trouble in several areas. Online Service Request (website): I only used this a couple of times. Once it was answered by a phone call within a day. The other was lost in space and I never heard from anyone. I think it is an awkward setup, at best. Email: I used to send emails directly to Jason, the old service manager. He was pretty good about responding within a day or two. I did have some issues with him not sending me all the stuff I requested. Telephone: I have called the general service number several times. Each time I had to leave a message. Response was variable. Lately I have not been getting anything back. When I have talked in person - I hate to admit this - I had a really hard time understanding either Jason or the new SM, who I can't recall his name - due to their very heavy southern country accents. Maybe that is my problem, I don't know, but I think the people selected to talk to the public should be easily understandable. (OTH I have hung up politely on more than one large corporation customer service rep from India that I just could not understand.) I will comment that nearly all of Oliver's buyers are older folks, many of whom might have hearing loss ;) Here's what I think is the problem, and I am hoping for suggestions about what Oliver should do to fix it. They are relying too much on old fashioned face to face communication which is obviously not working. They are just too busy now to be able to deal with issues and ship parts in an efficient and timely manner. They need to set up a better system that does not require the SM to deal with petty details like sending a replacement widget. What that system would look like, I have no idea. I do know that it should include regular e-commerce standard features like email notification, receipt, and tracking information. Perhaps half of the parts shipments I have received were incomplete and none had a packing list or invoice of any type in the box. They also need to add an About Us page to the website that lists the employees who interact with the Oliver community by department and position. I know the SM has changed, I still don't know his name and it should be so easy to find stuff like this since we are supposed to deal one on one with each other. As they continue to grow this problem is only going to get more frustrating for us as owners. Please comment with your personal experiences and any suggestions for Ollie owners or for management. I hope this isn't out of line, I thought a long time before deciding to start this thread. BTW I am going to call Service yet again tomorrow to see if I can get a response to my broken drawer problem.... They sent half the parts I needed. Thanks, John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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Canoe, I had a 4" port for a while, but it was hard to snap in the quick disconnect while the hose with strain relief was coming out through the hole. So I installed an 8" one and it is much better. A saber saw blade goes through the fiberglass like butter.1 point
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Hull #200 had the problem but... I had continuity and 14vdc between the positive terminal and the trailer tongue, but the trailer wouldn't charge from the car. John and I are at a Rally together and after fixing his 2015, hull #92, he wanted to look at my 2017 Elite II. There are substantial differences and when we tried to trace the white ground wire back from the 7 pin, it just disappears into the vanity from outside and doesn't come out into the front right side dinette... So I pulled out the schematic and take a look... The white takes off from behind the vanity and meanders all around and then connects to the attic ground bar according to the schematic, so there is no direct ground to the frame that we could see. When we tested the ground up at the 7 pin we were getting less than 9vdc, so it was obvious that we didn't have a good ground, which is more then likely the cause of the problems that you Ford guys are experiencing. John had brought some 10ga wire with him, so we opened up the 7 pin connector, pushed the weather seal inside to make enough room to run a temporary ground to the frame directly from the white terminal and everything works now. I removed the Camco LED foreign car adaptor and tested it without and it works. We then brought John's truck over and hooked it up to my trailer because it has the voltage meter on the dash. Low and behold, the trailer now charges from the tv without the "Tow Ready" connector needed anymore, the lights all work and everything is working the way it's supposed to. Now all that I need to do is find out what happens to the white wire behind the vanity and then hard wire it directly to the frame or the ground bar beneath the rear Dinette seat. So the answer for all trailer owners, not just trailers below 100, is yes, there is a ground problem that can easily be fixed. I'm sure that this is the main issue with the Ford Truck problems along with the trailer not charging for everyone. So I suggest, those of you with the electrical knowledge, check out your ground wire and make sure that it goes directly to ground out of the 7 pin connector on every trailer made to date! I hooked up to the Mercedes and all is well now, I don't have a voltage gauge, so when I leave here in a couple of days, I will make sure that the trailer is charging without the tow ready. I'm thinking that it will not be needed anymore but an actual drive test will be the tell all. Right now the lights and everything work like they are supposed to. Here's a pic of my simple temporary fix - We simply ran from the white terminal inside the 7 pin back to the frame, then wrapped it in electrical tape for now until I call Richie and find out where the white wire comes into the trailer. Reed1 point
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The next one is the 12 volt ground wire fix. Maverick mentioned that his was not charging from the tow vehicle and I found out mine wasn't either. So, while tracing it out I discovered the umbilical ended under the front dinette seat and only had a two small white wires that went somewhere, but not to anywhere that grounded the system. So, I extended the white wire in the umbilical cable with a #10 to the ground buss under the rear dinette seat and then from the ground buss I ran two #10s to the frame grounding lug that is close to the buss. This fixed the problem and now the tow charges the trailer batteries. It also properly grounds the brakes which seemed to be grounding only through the trailer ball to hitch! This fix may help those with Fords that have been chasing an electrical gremlin related to the brake controller1 point
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canoe, I installed my own with the same concerns. I did not want it exposed to excessive weather or possible damage. So I teed it in at the propane bottles and reach in through a port to access it. This is a very easy installation and it cannot get into much trouble. The valve in the line completely isolates it and stops any chance of a leak. I then got (3) ten foot sections of hose an can set my fire pit or outside stove wherever I want.1 point
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For our first visit when we placed our order (Oct 2015) we stayed at Natchez Hills B&B. It’s associated with the Natchez Hills Winery. It was a log cabin in the middle of the woods about a quarter mile from the owners house. There is also a small house that you can rent at Amber Falls Winery. Here’s the only picture I have of our cabin at Natchez Hills. We really enjoyed the rustic ambiance. Mike1 point
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We have the front quick connect and use it frequently. Haven’t had any issues with rocks from the truck. Mike1 point
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I’ve had generally good responses from both sales and service. Always had timely answers and follow ups from Tommy and Jason. Accents haven’t been an issue either. They are in central TN and folks there have accents, just like we have here in south TX. I like being able to talk directly to Oliver employees and would hate to see things get too sophisticated. I can tolerate an occasional delay knowing how busy they are getting. I agree that a “contact us” tab on the web page with a list of names and phone numbers/email addresses would be helpful. Mike1 point
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I got both and use both, though the regulator will whistle and needs to be changed out one of these days because if we are running the fire pit outside full blast, it screams at us, but that's just another project on the list. It works and I prefer the back port because you're far enough away to not be bugged by the regulator whistling away... :) Reed1 point
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We went home for a few weeks to prepare for our next outing and now here we are at the "Scamp Camp Far West Rally" located in Quincy California and back on the road for another week :) We have 2 Olli's here again with John's and ours representing our favorite type of trailer, the Oliver Legacy Elite II. You can see his in the far right of this pic - and then ours is located right at the gate and the first trailer that people see when they drive into the Pioneer RVCampground and once again we have had a large group of people checking out our Olli and surprisingly, some have watched a lot of our movies about the Oliver and our Gold Mining adventures :) Once again, Karen's women's coloring group has come together and have spent hours talking and coloring together. It has become the favorite gathering place for the women and they have a great time. Here's one of the pics that the girls put in their trailers to continue working on tomorrow. Karen brings all of the supplies, paper, pencils, paints, markers, etc for everyone, if you've ever wondered what we carry in our Yakima box on top of the car, it's plum full of art supplies :) We do love our little Goldilocks, she draws quite the crowd with all of Karen's decorative skills at work inside and out :) Reed1 point
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They are approximately the same size as a 30lb steel propane tank. I also think that the lighter weigh help reduce young weight as well. Here is the comparison: Viking Cylinder 22 lbs - Gallons: 5.24 Height: 22.5" Diameter: 12" 17 lbs - Gallons: 4.20 Height: 18.3" Diameter: 12" Standard Steel Propane Tank 20 lbs Steel Tank Gallons: 4.7 Height: 18" Diameter: 12.5" Weight Full: 37 lbs 30 lbs Steel Tank Gallons: 7 Height: 24" Diameter: 12.5" Weight Full: 55 lbs1 point
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Final pic of new fixture with amber lenses Hard to duplicate this using 3M 4000 or the like. The butyl tape is tight, clean, and most importantly hasn't leaked a bit through all the downpours and sleet and snow that has followed me around this Fall! This is now an outdated fixture for Oliver. But I hope that anyone who may have silicone sealant on their rig and wants to get rid of it for real will find this post useful. Also if you want to add any accessory items like a plug for aux. solar panels, or need to reset a window, or whatever, will consider using this technique. Contrary to what some folks think of butyl tape, this brand has not oozed out in the heat or collected dirt and turned black. If you keep it tight to the fixture and use a quality product like Bed-it, you should be a happy camper! Ok, it's past happy hour..... Dave1 point
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I ordered my 2015 Elite II (now sold) without solar or inverter thinking I would DIY my own to save money. It proved too large and technical a project for me so I left #64 with the factory to have the full monte installed. They did a terrific job. 320 Watts, 2000 watt inverter, Blue sky, etc. The system performed flawlessly. September of 2016 we bought a 28' Airstream and sold the Ollie to snowlakemike. The Airstream had no solar, little battery, nothing... so I hired my local solar company to install 500 watts of Renogy panels, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter with Blue Sky controller and IPN remote. I added 2 Crown AGM batteries plus 2 Trojan wet cell batteries I had in reserve. (Yes you can mix batteries. Just don't cook the AGMs) Again I am happy with my solar setup. I say all this so you will know that I am a fan of solar, but if I had it to do again I would skip the panels and invest that money in some Lithium batteries . I hear good things about the Battle Born brand.. My Honda 2000i running on propane, on Economy mode will fully charge my batteries in no time at all. It will also run my 15000 BTU AC with the Easy Start computer. The Magnum inverter is also a smart charger and allows me to select the amount of charge amps it calls for. I keep this at 30 when on shore power, but drop down to 7 for generator. This places a very small load on the Honda while charging my batteries quickly and quietly. The OP already has the Honda. Try camping without solar for a while...you can always add the panels in the future. By the way. I have 5000 watts of PV on my home and sell about $100.00 a month to Gulf Power. Solar does have its place.1 point
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I have the 320 watt Zamp system and it is fine for me. I did ask for an external port to be added at the shore power connector, which now appears to be standard? I suggest you go with their standard system and you can always buy a good quality suitcase unit and a 50 ft heavy gauge extension cable for those times when it is really cloudy or you want to park in the shade to reduce the heat load on the cabin. You may find that extra watts are not needed... If you get the solar port be sure to check that the positive wire has its own separate fuse where it connects to the batteries! Mine did not, and they told me it was “installed as per manufactures instructions”. Which was simply wrong. It HAS to have a fuse since it is an “always hot” wire, even if there is no external panel plugged in. That unit will have its own fuse. OTH Oliver gladly sent me an inline fuse holder and fuse, which I installed in the solar cable, using a weatherproof butt splice and ring terminal. John Davies Spokane WA1 point
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The Honda 2000 watt generator will run your a/c when used in conjunction with the easy start run capacitor. The on board converter controls the electrical useage through the shore power connection. I guess I'm the sole dissenter on the use of the zamp solar system, I do wish that oliver had installed a separate battery monitor with the system, but overall I'm happy with the setup. I don't have anywhere near the experience as other posters on this forum, but I go with the k.i.s.s. System for electronics especially. The longest we have boon docked has been 8 consecutive days and our zamp system brought our batteries up to full every day, we're pretty conservative on our energy usage, but we use the microwave, run a electric toaster, and my wife uses her hair dryer( not all at the same time or necessarily in the same day) hope this helps with your decision.1 point
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We picked up our Oliver in June and planned a service call for Monday, September 10th to address some small issues (always a pleasure to see Jason and Richie.) Six days before that, it was looking very questionable if we would be traveling at all. Glued to the weather channel, watching a category 5 hurricane marching right up to our front door. Growing up in Florida in the '60s we had both been through some of the worst – Hurricanes Betsy and Andrew come to mind of the same magnitude. Boarding the house up and bring in everything that was not nailed down took two days. Not having a safe place to park our Oliver (Roamy) we hooked up with a plan to drive 5 hours north and stay a night in a state park on the Florida/Georgia border. From there we would head north to Hohenwald for our service call, standing out of harm's way. God laughs when people plan. Gas was already like hens teeth in Florida on Thursday and I decided to take 3 five gallon gas cans that I was lucky to get filled, as a back up. Thursday night and into Friday morning was anything but a 5 hour drive. The Florida Turnpike rest stops turn the roads into stop and go traffic that stretch for miles, as people needing gas backed up in 10 mile lines, effectively closing a whole lane. Fourteen hours later, with an hour to go to get to the state park, they called and said the park was closing and that we would not be able to spend the night. Looking for other options proved futile and with our only option being our second plan stop, Point Mallard Decatur, AL, we drove on. Rest areas, gas station, restaurants, hotels and any small island of comfort, looked like besieged kingdoms ready to fall. We drove on. Sometime not moving for 10 minutes, other times doing the speed limit. The governor of Florida eliminated all tolls and opened the northbound emergency left lane for travel, this helped but is would soon come to a massive standstill at the Florida/Georgia board with the governor of Georgia not allowing the emergency left lane to be used. We had burned 40 gallons of gas to go 303 miles. The 15 gallons I loaded in cans made the difference from being on the side of the road and reaching Tifton, GA where we found gas with only a 30 minute wait. We drove on. 26 hours past and we felt the miles willing us to stop but as the signs for Decatur came into view, it was like a second wind blew in to help us along. We pulled into Point Mallard RV Park Friday night 11:30 pm. Like so many people we would meet in the coming days, the camp hosts came out to greet us. They make sure there was nothing we wanted or needed. We parked under a canopy of trees and rested for two days. As Monday’s sunrise came into view we pulled out like we had woken from some bad dream that only parts of it could be recalled. We headed to Hohenwald. Roamy was scheduled to get a reading light, backup camera, water tank upgrade and to fix our door which we rubbing the top jam. I cannot say enough about the team at Oliver. We left better then we arrived and more importantly, knowing this company and people care about us. Monday afternoon, with the hurricane marching up the west coast of Florida, we were getting calls from our friends and neighbors telling us we dodged a bullet and that our house was safe. They told us there was no power and no gas, it would be a week before either returned. With our service call at Oliver completed by Wednesday, we decided to spend the next two weeks enjoying our Oliver and would travel as far north as Pawhuska, OK. We stayed in some beautiful parks like Birch Cove State Park outside of Barnsdall, OK right on the lake and Roosevelt State Park in Mississippi’s Bienville National Forest. By the time we came home to Florida we have added 4,000 miles of memories. The storm left us with a week of yard cleanup and as my wife and I turn out the light last night, we both asked “When do you want to go again?”1 point
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Liz and I (Jeff) may be a bit obsessive, but we have four lightweight clipboards with these checklists for setting up and breaking up camp with our Ollie. Liz starts in the inside while I start in on the outside. As MS Word documents, they can be modified to suit. We have found that, without actually checking things off, we can easily forget something--and forgetting some things can be very bad. (Note: References to "Stan" on the checklists are to our Toyota Tundra tow vehicle.) Breaking-Up-Camp-Checklist-OUTSIDE.docx Breaking-Up-Camp-Checklist-INSIDE.docx Setting-Up-Camp-Checklist-INSIDE.docx Setting-Up-Camp-Checklist-OUTSIDE.docx1 point
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