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I replaced the window in the OOII's door with one that is clear but heavily tinted. You can see thru it even at night and cannot see thru it in the daylight. It is about the same darkness as the other windows. Easy to install just remove the inner trim ring and swap out the original. I ordered a piece of tempered, tinted glass at a local glass company here.

We spent two nights here last week, it is a nice older commercial campground located 30 minutes back on a dead end paved road at the edge of the Blue Mountains, due south of Pomeroy. The Tucannon valley is one of the most popular fishing areas in SW WA, and on holiday weekends there may be 5000 fisherfolk visiting. It was pretty quiet this time of year. We had heavy rain and a couple of inches of snow on the high hills above the campground. The paved road continues 8 miles to the Tucannon NFS campground, then turns to rough gravel and jeep roads before reaching the Wilderness boundary. In summer the Kendall Skyline Drive is very popular, after the snow is gone, and this CG would make a fine basecamp for exploring the fishing lakes and the high country. ... http://www.union-bulletin.com/things_to_do/outdoors/changes-in-store-for-popular-string-of-tucannon-lakes/article_d717a1ac-5c24-11e6-8eda-3735d26eb769.html https://www.trails.com/tcatalog_trail.aspx?trailid=HGW274-054 Because of the large number of visitors at times, there are many other camping opportunities. The wildlife refuge has a dozen free campgrounds (WA Discover Pass required) plus there are three NFS campgrounds and a few undeveloped spots, plus way more places once you get out of the valley into the woods. I went as far up as I could, but I decided I should stop when I no longer saw any tracks in the snow at 3300 ft. The high ridges are above 6000 ft and may not be snow free until June. The Stone Stomper worked well. It rained hard on the way home, and I was astonished to see that the rear glass and hatch of the 200 remained dry. All the water spraying off the truck’s tires was diverted under the Oliver, as designed. It was cool to see it in operation, in the rear view mirrors. John Davies Spokane WA

It didn't take us long to see the benefit of having a screen door handle but I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in my screen door so I made these plates to install the handle without drilling. I used 1/8 inch X 1 inch aluminum and drilled and tapped for #8-32 X 3/8 SS screws. The plates "rotate" into place with the hook at the bottom fitting into the cross bar of the door to keep the assembly from sliding up in the door channel. I shortened the handle tube to 19-13/16 inches, slid the end caps on and attached the assembly to the adapter plates. [attachment file=127613] I know, a lot of trouble to go to when I could have just drilled the holes and been done with it but I think it makes for a cleaner installation.

This, I like - I never cared much for Oliver's sink and faucet choices and I'd actually planned to supply them a sink and faucet to get installed on the line. Unfortunately the one I wanted wouldn't work and I was having trouble getting the proper dimensions from Oliver, so I just let it go and figured I'd replace it later. Well, that was a good idea until I realized that the cutout Oliver made for the sink was way too big for any of the bar sized sinks that I could find. And all of the full sized kitchen sinks were too big to fit. But finally I stumbled across this oversized bar sink from Franke. It's the 17" Franke Vector. Overall, it's the same width as the existing sink, but the lip is narrower, so the bowl itself is a bit wider. Mainly the sink is much longer and deeper. In overall volume, it's over twice as large as the original sink, but takes up no more counter space. Can't beat that. And because it's farther forward and 3" deeper, it doesn't splash all over the place like the original. In fact, I can even turn the faucet up all the way without it splashing over the front of the sink, which is novel. I like the Franke sinks in that they have the straight sides and look of a modern zero radius sink, but they do add a slight radius to the corners so that you can actually keep them clean. Installation wasn't too hard. I'd rate it 7/10. The difficulty was that I had to modify the base cabinet for it to fit. There's a wood brace running across the top front that is screwed to the fiberglass beneath the drawer trim, which had to be cut out, and also a portion of the left side of the cabinet. That sounds like a lot of structural support to remove, but the cabinets are mainly tied in at the bottom and I ran it past Jason beforehand to make sure I wasn't looking at it wrong. I have to say that the cabinets are stoutly built, and I'm not at all worried about it. The second problem I ran into was that my countertop wasn't perfectly flat. It bowed down in the middle slightly which wasn't apparent until I installed the sink. But I was able to temporarily shim the counter against the top of the cabinet while the silicone seal dried and then I glued PVC blocks around the perimeter of the sink to both hold it in place and to level the counter. The Franke sinks have an odd installation clip that wasn't designed with hollow core fiberglass in mind, so the blocks were necessary anyway. It's not going anywhere now. Of course I lost use of the flip out drawer but I hated that thing anyway. I glued a few ½" blocks to the front of the sink and then fixed the drawer front to the blocks with heavy duty velcro, just in case I ever need to remove it for some reason. The sink depth worked out perfectly with the existing cutout on the back of the middle drawer to clear the drain. I thought I was going to have to get a Hepvo trap to make it all clear but Oliver actually places the trap behind the cabinet, so no problem. I did have to get the narrowest profile elbow I could find to attach to the drain basket, so I had to go with cheap plastic rather than PVC, but such is life. At the end of the day, however, I decided to use a different drain basket that was a bit deeper, so I had to make the drawer cutout about a half inch deeper after all. The faucet is a Grohe that I found on sale at Home Depot for about half price, so that was a nice find. It has a really nice feel to it and unlike the sink, was a cinch to install. Grohe has a trick installation method that allows you to work from above so that one person can do it without crawling under the counter a hundred times. Oliver's hot and cold lines are convenient to get to and there's an access panel in the back of the cabinet that can be removed if you need more room to work. The only issue I ran into was that the counterweight for the sprayer was getting caught up on everything that's packed in the back of the cabinet. To fix it, I made a tube from some flexible plastic sheeting that I had lying around and just slid that over the sprayer hose. Now the hose slides easily inside the tube and as a benefit, the weight won't bang around inside the cabinet while traveling. So that's about it. I've learned that I don't have the patience or foresight to take progress pictures Like John does, so my description will have to do. But I'm happy to answer any questions.

WOW, awesome job!

I figured if someone bangs on my door I'd tell them to move to the left so I can identify them from the side window. Might be my military mind speaking, but now days ya never know.

No in oh so many ways! Rear door! Dust and muck collector! Front window, no guard! Rock and bug collector! It will be broken within 2000 miles. 4000 GVWR, 3400 base, 200 pounds of water = 400 pounds of cargo capacity!!! No ground clearance. No solar on roof. Not four season. 3 yr warranty. $45,000 MSRP! I just don’t see the value; even if the trailer was “impeccably” built, which I SERIOUSLY doubt, that is not a $45k trailer. If discounted 25% at the lots, then maybe, for some people.... who want a pretty, but significantly impractical toy. John Davies Spokane WA

Funny you should ask? I sent an email to Lippert Industries yesterday asking about door window replacement options. I haven't received a response yet but I'll pass it along when I do.

Wow that is a beautiful sink and install! I have never been all that happy with my sink/faucet combo. I was looking at getting at least a new faucet as mine does not reach far enough in to the sink. But the sink you found would be much more functional. So is your Franke Vector sink 17"wide x 22-3/8" long (flange to flange) x 9" deep? Just making sure. I'll be running out to my Elite to see if it will fit! Hope it does. Thanks for the post. Dave

Fort Sill! My dad was artillery and I spent much of my youth at Sill and in Lawton. I was staioned there in the early 80’s when i was a young signal officer. My brother was FA and was staioned at Ft. Sill a lot. Small world. Mike

My wife was stationed at Altus for her last assignment. I was Army and spent a large portion of my career at Sill.

I think if you were to pull from the breakaway chains, then you'd be O.K. as far as applying any weird torque to the tongue - they're pretty much dead center and if you're pulling from the cables you aren't going to apply any twisting forces. I don't know what the cables and those two shackles are rated for, though. I don't think it would take much to collapse the factory tongue jack. I'd be more inclined to just drag the tongue on the ground if that's your only choice. Better would be the XO Jack like I mentioned above. It's stout, and mounted directly to the tongue. I'd have no problem at all pulling that through sand or mud. In fact if you go to their website, they have a few videos of doing just that. Personally, I think it's one of the best improvements I've made to the trailer.