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Major chops to each person above! This is a great example of what Oliver people and this Forum are all about. Charitable, concerned about others and willing to share information. Wouldn't it be nice if the rest of the world worked this way? Bill

There was discussion on here awhile ago about drawers opening while underway. At that time the factory was also using real short screws to attach the drawer glides. Under certain circumstances the drawers would end up in the aisle, and usually something would break. A search of the forum should show several methods of preventing. We got our supplies from a fabric outlet that carries material for boat upholstery. We used about 1/8" shock cord. Underway it just pops on. When stopped they coil up real small and fit in top right drawer. In the 5500/6000 miles since installed we have had no further incidents where we have had to repair a drawer...

After only a few months the latch broke on the battery tray. I would think replacing the latch with the same one would result in a reoccurrence? Has anyone else experienced this problem ?

At the rally earlier this month there were a few owners that had awning damage from the strong storms that blew through. One directly across from us lost their entire awning and asked if I could haul it to the dumpster area for them since I had a truck. I did so, but before I did I cannibalized any undamaged parts that I could carry with the intent of offering them here for any owner that might need any of them. The awning was a Carefree awning. I salvaged the fabric, support arms, and several other pieces of hardware. If any of you are in need of any parts that I may have, just let me know.

Thanks for all the interest in my woodworking! I have enough requests to keep me busy for the next month. I may open this back up but for now, I am taking NO more orders. It was wonderful to get to know some many Oliver Owner's at the Rally and many of you have asked about our cutting board & shower mat. Lots of you have asked about getting one or both for your trailers. So, this week, I will begin milling the wood to make more. While I have a few confirmed requests, I will open this up to any and all. If you would like one please, let me know as this will be my last run as all good things come to an end. Contact me at 516 635-5656 or 48ocean@gmail.com. Cutting boards are made to your specific sink size. They are American Cherry and Rock Maple done in a ship decking pattern (pictures below.) They are designed to stay in place when traveling and can be used on both sides. Cost $50 plus UPS charges to ship to your address. Shower mats are designed to fit both Elite I and II showers. They are made of American Cherry and Honduras Mahogany in a criss-cross pattern. The construction uses shiplap joinery and brass screws with no glue for long life. Silicone feet keep them off the shower floor and allow water to drain. Cost $150 plus UPS charges to ship to your address. Please note: These are wood and as such will need a little care from time to time. Cutting boards should be cleaned and dried after each use and a coat of plain mineral oil applied once a month to keep up their glow. Shower mats should be stood up after use to dry and a coat of plain mineral oil once a month or sooner if you shower in your trailer often. Happy trails, Foy

You are so talented and your work is beautiful and practical as well. I would love a cutting board for my new 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite 11. Just picked it up May 15,2018. If you start to make these again please let me know. Contact: rpwlww@yahoo.com Thanks Linda (Nana)

I also have two of the levelers: https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3604--camper-leveler.aspx These work great when you have to get the tires of the Oliver on one side off the ground to get the camper level.

I have 3 of these and like them. Very light and store easily in the "basement". They are very stable in loose soil, sand, mud, etc. Pretty high, too, so you don't have to extend the jacks very far to create stability. They won't degrade over time either.

I'm guessing that these Andersen's are a bit lighter than wood - but at that price I think that I'll take the chance with termites. On the other hand, the Andersen ramps are great!

I haven't seen the tub collector but you can see the drain tubing by removing the ac filter. You'll see two "T" into one that I'm sure goes outside. I got an unexplained dump of water onto the cabin about a week ago. Think i may have had the nose too low.

Thanks Darrell, I will order a replacemwnt lever too and leave the whole brace to someone that needs it.

OK everyone, you are driving me crazy! So little time to listen to all this good stuff. This is still one of my favorites - shame she had to die at so early of an age. Bill

Found this service manual on the internet https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/documents/Freedom-WM-Service-Manual.pdf See page 13. See also page 17, Note 7 Do a Google search for Carefree of Colorado R001657.

Remove the panel where the filter is located. Remove the filter I think these are the tubes Steve (ScubaRx) is referring to

Road test report. I took the trailer out for a 30 mile tow on paved roads. It works fine, with a couple of cautions. When turning hard at full lock, going forward, the shock cords are at full stretch on the outside and the cords and fabric sag on the inside. I have to admit that the last pic bothers me, it seems like inadequate room for maneuvering on uneven terrain. Nothing hits, but it is darned close. When backing hard, the plastic center support bar will contact the rear corner of the truck, and the steel front bar will go under the basket. On uneven ground, the steel bar could run into the basket. I have contacted Anderson to see if they will build me an extended "rack" for my hitch. I asked for an extra 4 inches reach. I think that will open things up here enough and make me worry less. Plus it will get the ball coupler out from under my open tailgate. I could remove the basket entirely, but that would be a last resort, since I need it for gas and water cans. Here is a view underneath, right side, showing the fabric fully folded during a normal full lock front turn. It clears the ground by about 6 inches. Here is a look at the left side, at full lock turning left, where the exhaust pipe is located: The Land Cruiser already has a fully turned down tip. If your tow vehicle has exhaust(s) that exit more out the back, you will have to install turn down tips or risk burning a hole in the fabric. I need to remember to not park long term at full left lock while the engine is running ;) So, for a first run I am satisfied, I need to get more room and the extended Anderson shank is my best option. Moving the front SS bar forward 4 inches on the shank will really help. Extending the tongue would also work, and I may need to go down that road eventually, but is a much more involved operation. Regardless of how I get additional clearance, it is easy to shift the position of the fabric forward, using extra carabiners or even short lengths of crimped steel cable. If there is a gap up front, the gray flaps will stop any rocks from passing through it. John Davies Spokane WA