Leaderboard

I did try the above suggestion, and it did work for a couple days and then back to the steady stream of water. Long story short I got a replacement cartridge and wrote about it on my travel blog. https://cloudssoswiftrv.tumblr.com/post/174398003394/dura-rv-faucetshower

Mike & Krunch - Ya got some pics of the outdoor shower setup to post under a new thread? I've got an external shower tent that I use with a solar shower and have been thinking about ways to do a shower enclosure on the side of the Oliver. Bill

Yikes! So much headaches for such a small thing. Glad you were able to get it fixed

Actually it is a piece of 1/2” pvc pipe with chair leg cups on each end and 2 small Harbor Freight suction cups for each set of drawers. When parked, we use the setup inside or out for hanging wet things. And after seeing a recent mod for a shower curtain, I believe it will work for that as well. I also have a similar setup for an outside shower curtain. Got to love pvc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rscqSCxaKLo

Absolutely. Of course. 30 amp service is wonderful and is something we will have here at my new garage. My point being that when connected to a regular 110 volt service such as my temporary electric pole, you can still run your A/C if you use gas for the fridge and hot water heater. I was always under the belief that you cannot run A/C with 110 volts. That is just not true.

Materials required for modification: two 3/8x 3/4 in bolts, flat washers, nylock nuts.

My preference is not to use our A/C at all, but instead simply move to a cooler climate. Unfortunately, that is not the case here in northern Florida due to my recent quadriceps tendon rupture and now PT recovery after surgery. We suffered early on for a few hours every afternoon with just having the fan blowing and windows opened. I was of the understanding that our temporary pole and 110 volt connection to my 30 amp cord would not be enough to power the A/C in our Legacy Elite. One of the carpenters here on site kept insisting that I turn it on or go to a hotel. He begged me to do so for days. Finally he got the electrician to come talk to me. The electrician informed me that even the 30 amp connection only provides 110 volts. What matters is what else is connected. He suggested I run the fridge on gas, as well as the hot water heater. For the last two weeks we have had the air conditioner running constantly, still being able to use the lights, TV, and microwave. We have yet to blow a fuse. The electrician said the breaker at the pole would trip before anything in the trailer does. So much to learn about living in a RV full-time.

Nick, thanks for the very informative post, but if you read really close, you’ll notice this thread is about generators.

I've been using cushions to keep the drawers from opening until today... Yesterday I found the magnets that I've been looking for at Ace Hardware, they are 07217, 25lb magnets made by "The Magnet Source". They're more then strong enough to hold the drawers closed by themselves and they fit the original strike plates installed in the Oliver's perfectly. I had thought originally about just doubling up on the original magnets until I saw these Yesterday. I just had to mark and lower the middle and bottom drawer screws on mine, the top drawer lined right up. I had some good 1/2" sheet metal screws with a socket head that made them easy to install and though it says that it will hold 25lbs, it's maybe 6lbs of pull to open the drawers. So they are snug but still easily opened by anyone. Here's more pics and a pic of both the old and the new... major difference. I ended up screwing them in all of the way and then backing them out 1/2 a turn. I also adjusted the strike plates out enough to hit the magnets and hold solid. We will be heading down a washboard road here in a day or so to really put them thru the test... Well, I will be going really slow anyway... but still :) Reed