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Two things come to mind: make a cone out of aluminum flashing or heavy poster (cardboard) and duct tape to heat outlet in bathroom. The other end of the cone (leaving a smooth hole for string)duct tape to a shop vac. The vac can stay outside in case the filter isn't fine enough to catch all the particles. Tie a crunched up sandwich bag to a piece of string and suck it through the duct work. To the other end of the string tie a plastic bag or a t-shirt scrap. Haul that through the duct along with another piece of string. Then you can pull the cleaning rag back and forth. Tie them well so they don't get lost in there. With a crevice tool other spaces could be cleaned fairly well. I am also going to remove what looks like surplus duct in the water pump compartment. That has to create more resistance to smooth air flow and I see no obvious reason that it is there except somebody didn't want to cut it? You said your bathroom doesn't seem to heat well? I have noticed when the exhaust fan is running and the door closes it struggles to get enough air, creating a negative air situation. By the same token when the heater is blowing it must create a positive pressure situation and the heated air would struggle to get out and flow smoothly. I also would like a smooth duct as there would be less turbulence and a more efficient flow of air. In my 2017 hull we are going to put a small circular vent in the wall between the bath and the main cabin. Looking at the bathroom door from the outside the vent will be in the upper left side. Being there it should not be a problem and out of the zone where a shower water might intrude. That should help by providing a return for the heated air during heating season, and provide air for the vent when that is running.

The only ways I can interpret this statement is that you either did not read my post about the overturned Oliver or you read it and did not believe me. IF you didn’t believe what I said and need your own visual proof before making a purchase decision, then I submit you probably will never own an Oliver because you are unlikely to ever be in a position to witness such. I believe you will be hard to please but I still wish you luck I’m done...

What about running a flexable dryer vent brush through the duct by hand before you try to replace it. I have used one on our dryer vent with a drill but would do it by hand with the small brush. If you remove the vanity you could go from both directions with a shop vac hooked to the other end. https://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Cleaning/dp/B0014CN8Y8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1530406803&sr=8-7&keywords=flexible+dryer+vent+cleaner&dpID=41HEDgikEtL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The ducting in mine is so flimsy that there is no way a new duct could be pulled through it. The attempt would simply wad it all up and destroy it. This hose makes a dryer vent look strong. It's a good idea to restrict the flow in the main cabin to maximize the flow to the bathroom. This is not a system that is balanced on it's own, by it's design. By design, it gets balanced by restricting the lowest restriction vents to bring up the flow in the bathroom. It seems they all must have limited flow to the bathroom. Mine does too. Since the probelm that set off this discussion was contamination in the ductwork, that was free to blow out into the room. And since the replacement of the forward duct seems very difficult, I think it might be a good idea to increase the velocity enogh to blow out the loose fiberglass and cure it that way. This could be done by removing the restrictor in the bathroom and connecting a high powered industrial dust collector or a shop vac to that port. Then turn on the heating fan and the vac at the same time, while shutting off all other vents. This action would increase the flow beyond any normal rate and extract any loose fiberglass. You might also disconect the duct back by the fridge and just use the vacuum to maximize the flow. While doing this you could throw rags into the open duct to help vibrate the duct and cause more turbulence on the way through, knocking any stuck particles loose. you could also reverse the process and suck from near the fridge to backflush it. After this, there will be no loose strands waiting to get blown through by the low velocity heater fan. You should also contact Oliver to get their advice on this and to help them understand that they need to be more careful about contamination. Just blow it out with high velocity air and hope that the low velocity heating air won't be able to send any residual into the room. A "return air" vent, which is simply a hole in the wall between the bath and living area will really help to lower the restiction on the bathroom circuit too. Leaving the bath door ajar lowers the restriction even more than a vent and costs nothing, while still being able to close off the bath from the living area simply by closing the door. It might be nice to have a closeable vent there that could be left open while heating, but closed the rest of the time. Even the bathroom vent fan would work better with that vent open, but the best place for that fan to get air is the side window.

I agree that there’s not enough dust control at the factory. Far too much ends up left between the hulls and inside ducts, etc. And even if you go through and clean as well as you can, a lot of hidden dust will get shaken out during travel, leaving a fresh coat of dust to be cleaned again. For what it’s worth, I do think that it all works itself out over the first several weeks of use. That is of little comfort I’m sure. I’d offer three suggestions: First, you might consider cutting an access panel in the closet floor, which would be easy to cover afterwards. Then remove the shower caddy and I’d think that between the two you would have enough access to replace the ductwork. That’s assuming the duct runs under the closet floor there. To be honest, I don’t know where the front ‘curb’ in the outer hull is in relation to the closet/bath wall. And if there’s enough overlap to access the duct. It may be right at the wall and if so then this obviously isn’t a solution. Second option would be to secure new duct to the end of the old and try pulling it through just by pulling out the old through the shower caddy opening. Maybe it would work though obviously you run the risk of tearing the new duct or losing it halfway through. Honestly though I’d assumed that this is what Oliver would have had in mind for replacement. You might use semi-rigid duct if you try this, which would be more difficult to pull but less likely to tear and you’d get better airflow through it as well. Third, there are companies that do ductwork encapsulation where they spray a sealant into the ductwork to both contain existing dust and seal leaks. But I don’t know if that can be used in flex duct or in ductwork that small. If you find a solution, please do document the work since I’m sure others might want to follow suit. In the back of my mind, I’ve been thinking about how difficult it might be to replace that run with solid ductwork, just to get better airflow into the bath. I agree that dryer duct is a bad solution, though that seems to be standard throughout the industry unfortunately. If you do replace it, you should definitely try to go back with as much solid ductwork as possible, maybe limit the flex duct to the tricky bits snaking around the shower. If none of that seems feasible, then perhaps trying to blow it out with an air line might get most of the dust although rereading your post it sounds like Oliver has tried that.

Come join Oliver Travel Trailers from August 15th -19th as we attend the Boler 50th Anniversary gathering at Red River Exhibition Park, Winnipeg, Manitoba. Boler was the first fiberglass travel trailer invented in 1968 and made approximately 10,000 units before stopping production in 1988. Join us as we pay homage to the pioneer of fiberglass travel trailers! The event is limited to the first 1000 trailers. Daily activities include trailer showcases, workshops, entertainment and much more. All campsites have asphalt parking and electric hookups. There is also fresh water and dump locations inside the park. For more information about the rally, visit their website at http://myboler.com/ or their Facebook group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/888471907908283/. If you own an Oliver Travel Trailer, there is a “Camp Ollie” with limited space that will allow you to camp next to other Oliver owners. If you are an Oliver owner and plan to attend, contact “Camp Ollie” directors, owner Coy Gayle (hardrock) or Phil Andrews of Oliver Travel Trailers. For any prospective owners, the event will be open to the public on Saturday August 18th if you do not plan to attend the entire event. If you would like a chance get up close and personal with an Oliver Travel Trailer come on by and take a tour of either our Legacy Elite or Legacy Elite II trailer models.

I don't know of anyone claiming Olivers are better simply because they are likely to survive a rollover better. A rollover simply helps demonstrate how poorly some trailers are built. This doesn't have to be borne out by actual roll-overs. Just look for yourself at the construction of so many stickies and look at the construction of an Oliver. If it is not apparant that the Oliver is vastly superior, and you can't see it without an actual roll-over, then you should just buy the sticky and be done with deciding. I certainly did not buy mine so that I could roll it and keep on going, but general sticky construction leads to so many deterioration problems over time and so many stuctural failures from normal use. I suppose you could hold a piece of paper in one hand and a piece of steel plate in the other while arguing that you had insufficient data to show the paper was not as strong, and therefore you were unable to make up your mind which to hammer on. That's fine. But at some point, a common familiarity with materials is enough to favor the steel. Same with general trailer constuction. Just look at examples all around. Older ones that are falling apart. Rot problems, total destuction in wrecks, comments from owners that tow them. Go on a factory tour. In other words, do your own research and believe in what you see for yourself. Are stapled wood strips as strong a molded and re-inforced fiberglass? Are stapled aluminum strips as strong as a fiberglass outer shell? Is a rubber sheet roof as durable as fiberglass? Where will you find believable repotrs that demonstrate to you that a rubber sheet is as durable as heavy fiberglass? And why would you need such data, when you can simply hold each in your hand and see for yourself? Seriously though, and again, if you feel there is no demonstable differences in strength and usefullness between an Oliver and a normal sticky, don't buy an Oliver. Why buy something that is twice the price and no better? Your decision must be based on what you think is best. Not us. And it seems we are not able or willing to supply you with sufficient data to support the idea that a sticky is structurally weaker, more prone to rot, UV damage, etc. What happens if nobody ever rolls an Oliver and you have refused to buy one until you can compare rollovers between a sticky and an Oliver? You'd be stuck, unless you used your own common sense and noticed the differences in construction. Or, you can assemble your own report by buying a low priced sticky, and then another one and then another one, like so many of us have, and finding out how it goes over time. If you use them regularly, put a lot of miles on them, vist cold or wet climates, or keep one for a longer time, you'll have ample opportunity to form an opinion. I had three stickies before an Oliver. Maybe you should too. As far as brakes are concerned, Olivers use a conventional Dexter electric brake system on solid axles with shocks. Same design as many others. But they are Dexter which is likely the best manufacturer. Oliver has recently upgraded to greaseable bushings and an Easy-Flex equalizer too. Airstream uses torsion axles. Most stickies us conventional axles with non serviceable nylon bushings. Oliver has an aluminum frame that is unique in that it is specifically designed with the body and not just a platform to build on. It cannot rust. The frame works with the inherant and designed in strength of the body structure. There is no exposed wood underneath, just a fiberglass bottom exposed to the elements. All pipng and tanks are enclosed. You should know most of this by now if you have been doing any serious research. Proving why each of these features is superior to most sticky designs is beyond the scope of this reply. Some things are obvious. Good luck in your quest.

If you have a smartphone you can download an app. The one I have is appropriately named dB Meter. On low fan, I get 65dB- 70dB standing directly under the AC and 60dB-65dB at both bed height and the dinette. Add 5 dB to those numbers when the fan is on high. So, roughly the same level as a vacuum cleaner for reference. That’s with around 35dB background level without the AC running - the trailer is pretty quiet which makes the noise seem even worse. I believe the Honda generators are rated at under 50dB, so yes these suckers are really loud. The odd thing to me is that it’s the fan and not the compressor that makes most of the noise. Seems to me like Dometic could stand to do a bit more engineering.

Mountain, If you can't get it clean with high velocity as I thought might work, you'll probably have to leave the bathroom door open some to share heat with the main cabin and just block the duct. At night, for instance, just leave the door open and the bath will probably heat better than if you were relying on the duct for heat with the door closed. Not sure how much heat you want in the bath, but it's not ever going to be as much or more than what arrives in the main cabin considering the smaller and longer duct and no return air system. For us, when plugged in, I never use the forced air propane system. Always an electric heater and leave the bathroom door open a bit if it's really cold. Works fine. That means the forced air only gets used while boondocking in the winter. That means we're camping and that means a little temperature difference in the bathroom is no big deal. Were camping. I hope my cleaning suggestion works for you.

MountainApple, I am sorry for your distress and anger. It is understandable, but I do think your expectations for a medically clean interior were perhaps a little high. I have found significant fiberglass particles in many of the nooks and crannies of “Mouse”. These trailers are not “dust proof” either, in spite of the high quality bulb seals and adjustable latches. Even if you stay on paved roads exclusively, there will inevitably be some infiltration as you drive. It can be stopped, or at least dramatically decreased, however, please look at this thread. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/cabin-pressurization-system-to-prevent-dust-infiltration/ I would love to see a factory engineered option for this system, with integrated ductwork. I won’t hold my breath waiting.... I have allergies and carry an efficient HEPA room filtration unit when traveling in forest fire season. I hope adding this system will help my symptoms. There is no reason you couldn’t run the system while you are inside the cabin, to filter incoming air. If you feel like being the ground breaker for this mod, please post pics and commentary and I will gladly follow your lead. Otherwise I will figure this out off-season. Good luck in your duct cleaning. John Davies Spokane WA

Back to the OPs original question. If I were in the same situation and I couldn’t get the ductwork clean I think I would replace the ductwork to the cabin louvers and seal off the hard to remove duct to the bathroom. Use a small fan to direct heat to the bathroom or a ceramic heater if plugged into 120VAC. I know it’s not ideal but it might get you through until another reason comes up where you need to open up the hard to access areas. Bill

When the bathroom door and window are closed the bathroom exhaust fan pulls air through the open heat louvers in the main cabin and out of the open heat louver in the bath. I think this is beneficial in that it keeps air moving through that duct when the heat is not being used. Otherwise, moisture laden air might remain in that heat duct along with dust and produce mold. The exhaust fan also pulls cold air from the main cabin into the bathroom when the AC is running and the bath door is closed. For these reasons and to reduce the strain on the exhaust fan I like to leave the louvers fully open. The exhaust fan is also pulling air from somewhere in the hull through the gaps in the corners of the closed cabinet door above the toilet. I like that air is being moved through the hull. A return vent high in the bathroom wall might prevent this air movement. Regarding return air when the heat is running the best solution would be to prop the bathroom door open a little. Bill

By closing the main cabin vents a little will force more air into the bath. But you shouldn't have to do that in a balanced system. The factory has already reduced the 4" to 3", which creates a venturi effect to the the bath. I always try to be careful in adjusting air flow, knowing moving air is cooling air. The high return still strikes me as the easiest and most efficient method. Go into your bath, turn on the exhaust, close the door, and listen to the fan motor. Open the door and hear the fan motor and blades relax. It becomes obvious it needs more air..

I would be curious as to what a sound meter would register at various settings, and from different locations in the Trailer. From my experience, most are unpleasantly loud, however, one mans to loud, can be another's tranquility. I spent some time a few years back researching non ducted roof AC's, and the noise issue was common, never did find sound pressure data for comparison - this may have changed by now. Unlike comparing small gas powered generators - its common to compare sound levels, and outputs. Sure the RV design, set up, etc. will affect the readings, but any base line is better than subjective evaluations. Maybe when I get my unit, I'll take a gander at the issue...

Foy, When our Dometic AC turns on while watching TV with all 4 speakers operating, it's easier for me to hear the TV while sitting at the Dinette with one speaker over the Dinette and further from the AC compared to the twin bed area. Noticed Debbie watching TV in the bathroom door mirror while sitting at the Dinette, too. Found I do not need to increase volume while sitting at the Dinette, but need to increase the volume while at the twin bed area. In a past travel trailer we had, used to use inexpensive headsets while watching TV with the AC operating. Have though about this while laying in bed watching TV in Ollie, but have not tried using headsets with the Furrion receiver/amplifier, yet.

The Lukens put out some good word on this a year or so ago. Their tip was to remove the rotating closure element in the bathroom vent. This doubles the area open for hot air to move through the vent. We have done it and it helps. In addition we leave the bathroom door open a half inch at night. There isn’t an air return in the bathroom, and having the door open compensates for that. Good luck with this. John Shkor, SailorsAshore

You might be able to get more warm air to the bathroom by closing the cabin louvers a little. Bill

While some people scour RV forums for information, reviews, and the millions of opinions they provide, others gain their experience through hands on ownership, actual walk throughs (a weekend in one), perhaps spending hours at the factory. In either case, opinions are formed, all valid, some not very accurate. Some of us, having spent decades in high end manufacturing, some with experience actually building van conversions, and living in them thorough out North America, can separate the wheat from the chaff, when perusing the various opinion sites., some never do. The numerous Oliver owners I have actually talked to, and questioned, were as a group very well informed and educated about their RV and the competition. Many are what I call experienced tinkerers, with backgrounds in engineering, trades, etc. They are always looking to make something "better", a sort of - if it isn't broke, break it - mentality. I too suffer from this malady, and have slowly learned to accept less than ideal.....somethings are just not that important.... As we began to understand what we wanted in a RV - one that would be as versatile and accommodating for our travel/explorer lifestyle as we envisioned, I started with a checklist, highly set on a super C with off road capability, one with good attention to detail, and quality construction. I ended up at Oliver, as it fit the bill for everything I wanted except for being a 4WD, with a chassis of its own. Unfortunately, all the others I considered, and looked at, were just second rate attempts at building a quality product. My comments after viewing the build process "If I was to build a TT, it would be similar - Oliver meets about 90% of my design criteria" After leaving the Oliver factory tour we visited several RV dealers, to compare product. Validation is a powerful tool. We ordered an EII. And I'll pull it with a well matched off road capable 4wd truck. Gives us what we wanted - in a little different setup. Oliver's are not perfect, thus the tinkerers, they are expensive, they are scarce (less than 400 on the road), and like the early Fords, you get them this way, or that way, with few options. Don't like it, buy something else. Want a used one - if you can find one - it will still be expensive. That's the market speaking. Oliver owners, and the participants on this forum, in my view anyways, try to tell it like they see it -have experienced it - - It would be inappropriate, I feel for me to second guess them, perhaps - even petty. I get the pic's John posted, it wasn't an engineering evaluation. Having viewed the mating process of the two out and inner hulls of an Oliver, I'll put my money on any Oliver in a roll over verses a conventional similar size TT. Respectfully, a future Oliver owner. #359 due very soon. PS: I reserve the right to revise and Extend My Remarks ... RB

That’s not a bad idea adding a return vent from the bath.

I suggest we stop the combative posts right here. This isn’t that sort of forum. To answer your first question, I doubt there are enough Olivers on the road or for long enough for insurance companies to have evaluated their relative risk and be able to offer discounts. And I doubt that the market is valuable or competitive enough for them to do so anyway. Frankly, I wouldn’t look at insurance rates to tell you how roadworthy one trailer is relative to another. Likewise, you will have to accept logic and anecdotal evidence for the stability and strength of Olivers. If you need statistics to make your decision, then you’re going to be out of luck since none exist. As posted earlier, we do have evidence of one Oliver that slid into a bridge railing in the snow, which did flip and I understand was able to be repaired. We also have stories of a bear unsuccessfully trying to get in an Ollie, though I have to question how motivated of a bear it was, lol. Plus I think it was trying the wrong door if I remember the story. As for stability, all I know is that I’ve had zero issues and have heard nothing but the same from other owners. I’ve never read nor heard of anyone encountering sway with an Oliver, regardless of what tow vehicle they use. That doesn’t mean it can’t happen, but it’s good enough evidence of their stability for me.

In the original design stage of the Oliver Elite II, the plan was to employ molded-in ductwork. Unfortunately, the RVIA nixed that idea. Personally, I thought it was a great idea.

We made friends with a couple from Winnipeg when we led the Southern Utah Tour last year. They were traveling in a 40-something year old Boler. Coy has asked us to attend the Rally with him. I’ve spoken with our friends and they will be attending.

John, I love the detailed work that you do. I have nothing to contribute other than to say thank you. I may not ever install a positive pressure system but I agree with Foy and Mirna, stuff like this enriches the community and I appreciate it.