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Update to the original post, I've installed the single LifeBlue 200ah battery. The battery is only 58lbs - less than a single 65lb AGM. I used 3/4" pvc trim boards to make spacers in the tray. The only issue I had was the supplied post bolt was not quite long enough to accommodate all the connections (about 3 threads short). The converter/charger was able to bring the battery up from 73% to 100% in about 4 hours (the fan is on all the time for the higher lithium setting). EDIT: The charger fan runs continuously WHILE charging, but shuts off once charging is complete. Battery and inverter are performing as expected. No trouble running the teapot or microwave. Bluetooth connection with the app works well. Very happy with everything so far.

I was at fiberglass coatings in St. Petersburg today. They do custom gelcoat match, minimum one quart. They would need the RAL (color) number from Oliver to custom match.

Hi QuestionMark: Thanks again for the heads up PM on this topic, I appreciate it! I subsequently checked our 2020 EI and found that (1) the 3 5/8" shackles were used and (2) there are no bushings on the top zerks. Clearance between the frame and suspension is less than 1". I'm already in touch with Jason, he's offered to ship out a replacement Dexter HD kit or have the work done there at Oliver (I don't have the skills to do the work myself or I would). QM, JD, All: Your comments and those of other experienced Ollie owners here and elsewhere in the forum are invaluable. . . I'm a first-time travel trailer owner and have never even towed before so suffice it to say the learning curve is steep. In this case, I likely would have had no idea anything was amiss with the suspension until a failure, which easily could have been catastrophic. Many, many thanks to you all for taking the time to share your knowledge and research. -Brian

We showed our trailer last week and the party wanted some quick measurements after the visit to make sure the EII would fit beside his garage. What he asked for prompted me to do this extremely rough sketch for him...and I thought dropping it here might be useful. It looks at the EII from the FRONTAL view, with the door and steps open. Text that went along with the sketch: Here are the measurements you asked for and a bit more on the front view sketch with Steps and Door Open. The drawing is at a scale of 3” per square, or 4 squares / 1 foot. Height: (To see if it will fit under your overhang area.) Height from Top of Awning to Ground - 8’ 4” (102”) Height to Top of Solar Panels - 9’ 1” Height to Top of AC - 9’ 8” Width: (To see if it will fit between the house and the hedgerow.) Trailer Width Door Closed - 7' Trailer Width with Door Open - 9’ (Door sticks out 24” from belly band.) Steps - Stick out 16” from trailer when fully open). Solar Panels are 16” from edges of trailer on either side. Hope that helps you plan your parking spot. If anyone has an actual 2d drawing of the Oliver from Side , Front and Top Down profile (which is the floor plan I guess) it would be nice to have. Craig - Hull 505

As Overland said, the charger fan does shut off once charging is complete. It also tapers off toward the end, cycling on and off in gradually lengthening periods and for shorter "on" cycles, as the heat build-up from charging decreases. On the plus side, charging from solar is extremely efficient and silent, apart from a slight buzzing from the controller when the battery is actively charging. Thrilled with the difference in performance over the AGMs.

Our 2019 Elite II Hull 461 has the correct short shackles on both the street and curb side suspension. Hopefully Oliver reaches out to their Elite I customers to have theirs checked to see if the short shackles were mistakenly installed. And that could be a tongue twister. She sells short suspension shackles on the street side.

Thanks for the kind words. Since we now know definitively from the Mother Ship what length shackles “should” be installed on each model, it just makes sense to me to crawl under and measure them. I have not yet done that, but I will soon. A new thread with a poll should be useful, for folks to report their findings. If there is a significant percentage of wrong parts installed, it would be time for an official tech bulletin. Edit: that was easy, on the LE2 you don’t actually have to lie down. Mine are correct at about 3 5/8” overall length (not hole to hole, which would be a much better way to measure.) John Davies Spokane WA

I got one of these some time ago. It's not a ladder, but better than the tire or trying to stand on the edge of the seat, and it sure does take up less room. The only problem is that I forget I own it. https://www.amazon.com/Rightline-Gear-100660-Original-Shark/dp/B07JMTVP9N Also, don't forget it's there before trying to close the door.

Great idea. We carry a little Rubbermaid folding stool, that allows my short stature to reach into the truck bed. I gave up on standing on the tire some time ago, except in emergencies. Your ladder gives a lot more height/reach.

I have a better weigh that I received as a retirement gift. Used it a few times and it was within about 5% of scale weights. It's not a substitute for an accurate tongue scale or weighing at a weigh station, but accurate enough to be an interesting quick check tool. Craig

This one works well. You can place it atop the Tow Vehicle or on the tripod. https://www.amazon.com/KING-OA1501-Portable-Omnidirectional-Antenna/dp/B01MSDL4UU/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=king+portable+antenna&qid=1618153214&sr=8-3 We also have a cheapo Walmart flat indoor antenna that can be placed in the window facing in whatever direction the signal is transmitting. Works well for short range.

FYI the VictronConnect app works great, but you can only have one device (a phone or tablet) connected at a time. I like to have my iPhone connected when towing in the truck, to see what is happening in back. Then when inside the trailer I turn that app off and connect with my hard mounted iPad Mini. I disagree, just a little, with overland’s comment about attaching all the grounds to the Victron shunt, especially if you have an inverter. You should not stack more than four cables on any one connection. Having a nearby ground bus bar or stud makes it easier to manage the many cables, and to add more in the future. Simply connect that bus bar to the Victron shunt with a short, very heavy gauge jumper cable. Be sure to attach the power wire for the shunt directly to the batteries, not on to a switched source, or the system will get confused and reset the state of charge to 100% if the batteries are disconnected, or if you have a battery master shutoff switch installed. The system uses only about 5 milliamps on standby, which is negligible. You might as well buy the optional Victron temperature sense cable and install that, it provides temperature data that is very useful. (It also has a fused power wire, so you do not need to use the one that comes with the shunt.) Your batteries may not need that temperature compensation, but YOU need the info so you can monitor what is happening in the “hot box” compartment. I am not sure if this is compatible with the model of shunt you ordered, this fit my BVM-712 Smart unit. https://www.victronenergy.com/accessories/temperature-sensor-for-bmv-702 If you add another Victron product like a smart MPPT solar controller, you can easily set up a network and they will talk to each other, and you can see the battery temp on the solar app display, for example. Very cool. John Davies Spokane WA

Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce, Zion.

I'm in agreement, that there is a real need for a drop and go LI upgrade. You can in fact do a drop in LI's if you have the PD4060 with LI setting in your Oliver and be down the road pretty quickly. I planned to do that as well but I decided after research to upgrade to a smart charger/inverter along with the new LI batteries. Backdrop: Trailer manufacturers (including Oliver) are shifting rapidly away from the older "CONVERTER" technology as typical from Progressive Dynamics to newer Smart Charger/Inverters as they provide more benefits to customers and programmable profiles for Lead Acid, AGM and Lithium's which all can have different profiles. They are also looking at newer trailer control and wiring schemas to have touch control centers for all loads, batteries, solar etc. The benefits to the customers are single points of control for the multiple systems, and for the Trailer Mfrs a reduction in the time to integrate and wire up the trailer systems. My current hull 505 (2019 EII): has a PC charge converter and a separate 2000W Prosine Inverter My Load Center is from Progressive Dynamics, is the PD4000 line, and under the dinette seat. (Covers off the load center) That power center includes the AC Breakers, about half the DC Fuses and the the PD converter model PD4060K which has a charge wizard for Lead Acid/AGM battery charging and and a built in Lithium Setting Switch. That LI Switch on the PD Converter when set, outputs a constant 14.6 v, but is NOT a smart charger by any means. I also have a separate Xantrex ProWatt 2000 pure-sine inverter. Battery Shopping : As I shopped for batteries I started with Battleborn support and learned a few things about LI battery charge profiles. They are different for each chemistry, and each battery manufacturer and each battery management system (BMS) has it's own specific charge profile that is "BEST" for battery cycle life. Battleborn said their products will work well with the Progressive Dynamics Converters that have the Lithium Setting, but they said at the end that the ideal setup is to have a SMART charger with a customer settable Lithium Charge profile. They encouraged me to consider upgrading my charger if I had the budget and space to a smart charger....but said the LI setting would work. Smart Charger ? to PD: My next call was Progressive Dynamics Support to find out if they had a newer LI smart profile converter that would plug into the PD4000 load center...no joy. Speaking with Andy (Svc Mgr) at Progressive Dynamics I learned that the PD Converter units on LI setting outputs a constant 14.6V to the batteries. Andy said they do not have an available LI specific smart charge wizard from PD for the basic converters in the PD4000 load center. A smart LI wizard would drop from 14.6 bulk charge back to a LI Specific float voltage around 13.4. Andy said while they don't have a plug in converter with smart lithium profiles yet. He closed by saying the PD 4060 unit works to bulk charge Lithium you may not be Optimally Charging and delivering the longest life for the new LI battery. Oliver's newer choice - Inverter Charger combos: What I also learned, is that in the newer inverter/chargers Oliver is using like the Xantrex XC 2000 or XC 3000 , (or Victron Inverter Chargers) they include a smart programmable battery charger specifically designed to be able to set a lithium profile to exactly match whichever battery specs are provided by the Battery Manufacturer. This charger replaces the former PD4060 converter section. In the 2021 and newer trailers Oliver no longer uses PD4000 energy center. Oliver has moved ahead to the newer technology of smart inverter chargers. The Benefit of these smart inverter/chargers are much longer battery life for the Lithiums while also delivering inverted power to the trailer. Summary: So while I know I could do a simple drop in of Battleborn's into the Oliver with the PD 4060 Converters set to LI and add the "victron smart shunt" , I found that the end result will be a LI battery pair with a somewhat reduced overall life. Finally when I then spoke with Lithionics directly about my upgrade, they said they would prefer that I upgrade to a smart charger and away from the PD4060 converter as they don't meet the charge profile that would provide the longest useful life of the Lithionics batteries. Hope that's interesting to those who are following this thread. Craig