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Living in the Texas Hill Country, with steep dips on roads where dry river beds cross, I asked Oliver to build The Wonder Egg (#14) with a spring-over-axle set up to avoid rear end scraping. It has worked very well for me and improves clearances over obstacles if I want to place the back end of the trailer over a log / etc to get into the perfect boondocking site. As mentioned, a set up like this does result in some handling issues you'd need to contend with . . . braking a turn taken little too fast with a strong, gusting wind coming from the inside of the turn is a potential rollover situation. That might be more pronounced in the LEII due to more height and mass on top, combined with a larger surface area causing a "sail" effect. To mitigate this issue, I always travel with a full fresh water tank when starting out to lower the center of gravity and improve safety. The 2"X8" board or driveway modification might be your best bet.

You are a true wandering sagebrush. any idea the number of miles traveled? congratulations!!! PS, I spent my first 16 years living in far Eastern Oregon (Baker City). We love the high desert traveling Eastern Oregon

I just finished updating my blog pages to include some parts that have become hard to find for our older 2019 Elite II. I've been maintaining this guide for 3 years and many parts and equipment specific to Oliver EI and EII trailers are included. For example...the grommets for the stove that were used in many trailers from 2019-2024 or so.. I listed them in the Oliver Outfitters guide in both the "Oliver Outfitters" main page and in the Kitchen Gear sub category as shown below: Here's the link to the overall page: Oliver Outfitters Guide on Amazon Full Disclosure for Moderators and Viewers: I do make a small amount if people by off this page, it's averaged $3/month...so not big beans. Mostly I'm trying to chronicle parts, pieces, gear that is used or needed by many Oliver Owners. Craig

Lol, no matter how hard I try, the only way my brain sees it is half the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the leaf pack. Like I said, I might be looking at it wrong... edit- Just drew it out and now it makes sense. Time to go to bed!

Don't you already have a mountain home? It's that fiberglass egg-looking thing! 🤣

A former Moderator and Oliver owner is/was renowned for relatively extreme mods to his Ollie. One of these mods occurred during construction where he had requested Oliver raise his Oliver to get more ground clearance - primarily for off-roading purposes. Someone here on the Forum might still have more pictures of this Oliver. Once the Oliver was "lifted" it was decided (by all concerned) that this would cause the trailer to be too top heavy and/or would impact the road handling of the trailer adversely. Therefore, it was returned to the original design. The trailer's name was Snowball and the Forum name of the owner was Overland. Bill p.s. Here's Overland's discussion of his "attempted" lift.

The problem with this is that it puts a reverse stressor on the trailer frame. Instead of bearing a load (trailer body) pressing down from above, when the rollers are dragged on the pavement they push up on the rear frame of the trailer and carry part of the load usually carried by the axles. This can bend a trailer frame and cause damage to the body (although I would think a molded fiberglass body is stronger then other RVs).

I have seen videos where skid rollers are mounted at the rear of a travel trailer to keep the bumper/under carriage from scraping on steep driveways or road grades; check out etrailer.com for such products. I welded some on a skid plate that’s mounted on the front of my TV to protect the expensive ebike rack, works great!

Following JD's lead on this: Some thoughts about the 3 way it appears you have done all the common items: Turn the control panel up to setting 5. Park with the curbside door on the north side as much as possible to keep the solar gain off the unit. If not possible, lowering your awning a bit to put the unit into shade. Open the frig door and look in the upper back wall where the aluminum cooling fans are. On the right side of them is a white plastic "clamp" that holds the thermistor for the unit. It will slide up and down on the right most fin. This thermistor controls the cooling system. Moving it up or down will increase/decrease the temp in the box for each of the five settings on the control panel. I don't recall which way you move it go get cooler, but there there is a post on the forum. I'm sure one of the members will remind us on this detail. The Beach Lane Fans seem to be the best fan solution for a warm frig in hot conditions. So regardles of any of the suggestions, if you use a 3 way where it is hot you need the extra cooling needed by the frig. Do plan on doing this if you get yours running. Good posts on the forum on how. So now to get to the gas burner orifice. It is easy to get to and remove. Follow the gas supply valve into the curbside front of the lower access panel. It goes horizontal into a gas control valve. Beyond that valve is an air shield. The outside cover can be bent out to reveal the gas orifice. A small combination wrench is needed to remove it. Done. Hope this helps. GJ

You're welcome, Robert. That's great that you are in Colorado! You should definitely visit Alcan like I did on our trip, purchase parts at a minimum, get the Alcan Leaf Springs and get their U-bolts also to mount the springs. Your Oliver is a 2022, mine a 2016 needed everything. I'm assuming you have the HD EZ Flex kit installed from new. For example, if you have towed 50K miles in 4 years, your EZ Flex equalizers are likely shot. There is a section in my post about the equalizers. They wear cock-eyed inherent to their design. If your mileage in 4 years is much lower say 20K miles, they may be OK to be reused. Shocks don't matter much. If you had Alcan work the spring install, you could ask them to test the shocks. If bad they could replace them if available, or just reinstall them as-is and you could DIY new shocks at anytime, a simple task. Many on this forum and elsewhere are adamant about the wet-bolts installed in a certain 3 or 9 o'clock position. I'm not sure that matters, I worry less about some things. Since the Alcan wet-bolts were not splined, I just mounted ours in random positions. When I grease, I usually get one Zerk per side that will not take grease (yes wheels and load OFF). I just loosen that bolt, give it a 1/4 turn, apply grease and retorque. To date, only one Oliver owner had issue with the Alcan shackles, where they got buggered with use. The same owner went with an extremely light torque setting, hence the damage. No other complaints from what, 200 Oliver owners with Alcan Springs! If you believe in the 3-9 positioning get a HD splined set instead. I also thought afterwards, I could have bought the full HD EZ Flex set saving money. If needed when there, purchasing Alcan wet-bolts would be fine. One thing I can tell you is they will reuse everything good and are not the kind of outfit to upsell their customers. Another thing I would have done differently? If Alcan had in stock the axles I needed, in hindsight, I would have had them do the whole job when I was there. They charged others a very reasonable $600 for labor, and got the job done in a half day. I enjoy DIY on my vehicles, always pay for parts only, dislike paying for contract labor! But to install axles and springs was a long hard job for one old guy at home (my son helped when asked), pacing myself I spent a few days! They certainly would have fit me in vs. allowing me to drive off that day! They measured our Oliver and spent so much time with me. Our Oliver is one of the few with the 50" axles, while Alcan had a whole pallet of 50.50" axles for their Oliver customers. My axles had to be custom ordered, so having them do the work while we were in CO was not in the cards. You have a lot to consider. I suggest you keep the installation option open. Call them and talk to Lew or Tim. Let us know how it turns out for you!

Nope, doesn’t happen. The truck was absolutely coated with goo several times and the Ollie nose, but the windows literally get nothing, not even any dirt to speak of. The front edge of the outdoor power socket and edge of the Truma door get it though. The windows have been trouble and maintenance free in over 3k miles. Pro tip to make them even more maintenance free is to SiO2 them. Water beads and runs off beautifully too, I use Griots Garage SiO2 window treatment. It’s not as serious as a full body coat, less concentrated, but it’ll last 3-6 months. Hey even the Secret Service uses it on the Beast.

A lesson learned. As much as I like the storage box on our Ollie, it will never go back on the trailer. We are planning on venturing into some rougher country later this year, so I thought I’d check the spare. Long story, short… it took over two hours to get the box disconnected. I had to remove the box from the aluminum frame, then take many many strokes with a dead blow hammer to get the frame out. I can’t imagine doing that on the road. The good news is the tire still had over 60 PSI. The bad news is my back is sore.