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Not a bad life first thing in the morning. However, they seem to like scratching their faces on the rear bumper at 5:30 in the morning!

So, you're not glamping, but we sure are! 🤣 I would say an OEM Oliver, one purchased without any lithium package, little to no owner mods/upgrades, yes that shiny fiberglass is only skin deep. Leaky windows, the Dometic P2 A/C and with other OTT installation issues, it is hard to be comfortable. Glamping means comfort! Yeah, the G is for Glamour, but nobody is glamorous parked in a campground or anywhere else without all the creature comforts you desire! When you seriously upgrade the Oliver, at some point you're no longer roughing it! To start with, throw out the little $89 TV that OTT installed and replace it with a Samsung 32" 4K TV monitor, on a better mount and add a soundbar. Then correct the awful furnace ducting, vent the closet, bath and basement, and do something about those leaky windows! And it will take a while to move all those misplaced switches, water valves and breakers out from under the beds! And speaking of beds, all the OEM cushions and mattresses are way too basic to be glamping. The next item going to the junkyard is the common RV microwave (I use a Craig's Free Stuff ad and a driveway full of stuff is gone in hours)! A small Emeril Air Fryer fits there perfectly. We have 6 ways to cook indoors and outside, including the dual-burner Napoleon grill/griddle, cooking on the fire ring, a mini pressure cooker and an induction cooktop. Not hotdogs and smores, but glamorous meals for sure. It's not glamping when you get stuck somewhere making life uncomfortable. Or you can't use the bathroom or run the A/C while on the road or taking a break. Got to have freshwater tanks full, the one onboard and 35 gallons extra in the TV for if/when needed. With two 30# LP tanks full, 900 Ah LiFePO4, 720W solar, a 50A DC-DC charger topped off with the Victron MP2 3KVA inverter/charger, we can be VERY comfortable for a week or more and even throw some loss sole a 10 AWG extension cord to power their trailer overnight. And of course, remove the old-school rooftop cameras and nobody uses Wi-Fi repeaters anymore, or campground cable or Wi-Fi, OMG! Got to add a cellular router and antenna and the Starlink Mini is a must. Can't be glamping if you're not online 24x7! Then you could be riding on the lame Oliver OEM suspension or upgrade it with new D52 axles, Alcan Springs, Bulldog shocks and speaking of Bulldog upgrade the hitch coupler too. I can't believe OTT went with the 4-leaf Alcan Springs on this odd X23! Just so they could derate it to a 7k suspension? The tires are so out-of-place on the white egg! My forecast, OTT stops making the X23 after 2 years of meager sales. There are several REAL off-road trailers in the marketplace, and if that's what you want, it's not an Oliver. Some old guy said, after having a knee replacement, "I should have done this years ago!" Just like those of you who have that freight-train-engine sounding Dometic P2 still sitting rooftop! Even if you claim, "We hardly use it." You're fooling yourself and either way, once is enough! Our Chill Cube keeps the cabin cool on battery for 3 full days with daily highs of 94F outside! And at nighttime when outside temps drop, you can hardly hear it running while it's sipping 2Ah. Why did I wait 2 years? This is only the half of it and then there's the TV! I won't bore you with the technical details but the 45L CFX5 fridge in the truck bed never runs out of cold drinking water in our desert. With room for new groceries, it's much easier than adding to the fridge inside. Pantry full and closet floor lined with adult beverages and soft drinks, craft cubes in the freezer - yes, we're glamping! I was 3 nights camping in The Valley for a major sinus surgery. Everything I needed to recoup was at arm's length, only a few paces to the bathroom, truly all the comforts of home. Spending nights in a hotel was not an option, not near the comfort. Love our Oliver!😎 Our first RV was a 39' Fleetwood Discovery diesel pusher with 3 slides. Thought the way to go, was to go BIG! It had the big screen TV, but otherwise, it was awful. The Class-A is only comfortable on US Interstates and large paved lots in RV Parks and must have 50A service. If you get stuck, you have to run the generator because unless you spend another $50K in solar and lithium, all you power you have unplugged is enough to reheat up a cup of coffee in the microwave! Don't try big city streets or much in dirt roads. Only ex-truck drivers are comfortable in a Class-A. BTW, generators and glamping do not mix. 🤣 So, when you're done with all these electrical and mechanical system upgrades, you gotta make it look as good outside as it runs inside. We know it, but it's the only way people will know we're glamping too! 😎

We’ve been accused of “glamping” because we have a nice trailer. I’ve heard of ‘glamping’ obviously, but didn’t think we qualified. Now, if you’re cruising around in one of those 4mpg 40 foot coaches with a laundry room, hot tub, 4 slides and a 50” TV - THAT’s “glamping”.

That was us. We were heading home to Woolwich, ME from Campobello Island in New Brunswick. Just set up an account so I could reply.

Not sure if this is the same one we bought. Also from Amazon (where all good things come from) and has a physical pushbutton as well. As @Boilermaker Chemist notes - a real ‘switch’ means that when the power is off - it’s off. With the touch light, they’re always “on” and waiting to sense your finger. We had some weird ‘on’ conditions on the same (over the sink) light that preceded full failure: flickering, inconsistent operating, half-brightness. That kind of behavior always worries me. Maybe it’s obvious, but the most frequently used fixtures are the ones failing. I wouldn’t expect that with a “switch” that shouldn’t “wear out”. Of course, the second most commonly-used light - over the dinette - is showing signs of failure. Luckily, the package from Amazon had two lamps. Replacement as @Boilermaker Chemist describes are similar to my experience - except I did soldered splices with heat shrink tubing to insulate.

Like many others, I had to replace one of my touch lights because it went “wonky”. For the replacement, I purchased the 3000K Obeaming RV Interior Ceiling Dome Light 4.5 Inch from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZDM19W?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1_1&th=1 In the hope that it might help others, here are a few things that I observed during the repair. The light that failed was over the sink. Since the original light was fastened with rivets, I used a 1/8” drill to remove the old rivets. Apparently there is another layer of fiberglass inside the overhead cabinet that would have had to be removed to get access to the rivets. So I just used a needle punch to push the rivets out of their holes without bothering to retrieve them. After removal, I cut the wires close to the old light. The wiring was about 20 gage, so I used small wire nuts to connect the new light. Note: make sure you rewire based on polarity and not color. In my case, the black wire on the old light was positive but the black wire on the new light was negative. I wrapped the connections with silicone tape to prevent the wire nuts from loosening up. There was enough room to stuff all of the wiring back in. As luck would have it, the mounting holes on the new light were a nearly perfect match to the old one, so no new holes needed to be drilled. I used 1/8” x 3/8” rivets to fasten the new light in place. I like that the new light has its own push button switch. Hopefully that will help prevent it from getting “wonky” :-).

I would like to see pictures of the bathroom door being installed in current production models. Can someone with the newer style door please post a few pictures? If you can find a manufacturer label please post a picture of that also. Bill

Welcome and Congrats and enjoy the delivery day! There is something really special about taking delivery of a brand new Oliver, it was for us. Before you know it your day will be here!

You will appreciate the "memory" feature whereby they remember their last state, dim level, night light, on/off, etc.. With the original touch lights I would have to turn off all of the ones that I didn't want on whenever I turned the master power switch on when arriving at a campground. The new lights remember their previous setting.

Slow elk…😇

Clearly designed for the Overload Overland community. IMO, the blackout theme detracts from an elegant travel trailer in an effort to reach out to the Overload crowd. The suspension upgrades seem reasonable, and I like the new hitch. A concern with the 48 VDC system is what I believe to be a single point of failure at the power management controller. The older I get, the more I want simple systems. We just bought a new 4Runner, and the dash and multi media features almost had me returning it with less than 200 miles. We will stay with Hull 364, and do gradual upgrades as needed. The batteries and refrigerator are on the list

Yep, obviously the Ah is Ah, but what I was trying to say is that running an inverter A/C off of 12v batteries though an inverter is more efficient than the Houghton 48v running directly off of the 48v battery.

UPDATE July 8, 2026: I arrived in Cimarron NM two weeks ago. On June 28th, I connected my TV to my friend's Oliver 7-pin and didn't get any error messages. I was not able to tow her Oliver though, because she is fully connected and set up in camp -- so this was not a definitive test. On July 3rd, I towed my trailer to Eagle Nest -- the TV dash warning lights came on within a mile, and my TT brakes were not working for part of the haul through Cimarron Canyon. They worked, then didn’t, and then they worked again. That is all the same as before. Today July 8th, my friend's schedule opened up and she was able to come hook up to my Oliver to test towing my trailer with her new Dodge Ram. She drove around for about an hour, trying to simulate conditions (I have noticed a lot of the time my warning messages come after I have been over rough road surface, or else after braking for a traffic light). We had no warning messages. After towing for about 10 miles (maybe 40 minutes), we stopped on a pull-out and reached out to @jd1923 who talked us through his testing method with the clamp ammeter. (Luckily, my friend has a clamp ammeter; mine is not a clamp style and I think mine would require penetrating or cutting the wires to test them.) Here are my notes: I struggled to pull the emergency breakaway pin out of the socket. John suggested a wrench and hard tug, not on the cable but on the pin. I used a wrench on the looped end of the pin, and it broke off. The pin itself was still inserted. (I did manage to get the pin out, which engaged the emergency brakes.) With the emergency breakaway pin still engaged, the ammeter showed 0.02 on the front street side wire. Once I was able to pull the emergency breakaway, this front street side wire read 6.60 (as expected); the street side back read 6.39 (about the same); then I measured the curb side front and it was 2.89 (as expected). I couldn’t get the clamp ammeter to fit between the shocks and the drum in order to measure the rear curb side, but these measurements seem to show power (from the emergency brake battery) running through the wires. I believe that this is not a definitive test. For one thing, the trailer is sitting still, not bouncing along the road, so there could still be an issue with worn brake wires inside the axles (or somewhere else). But it was worth testing, and without any error messages in my friend’s truck, it seemed more likely an issue on the TV side. She continued to tow my Oliver back toward my campground. At two stop signs, she used the gain control to see if my trailer brakes were working (and they were.) Then, as she braked on the highway to slow down and pull into my campground, the brakes seized up (or… something). She felt as though the trailer brakes quit working and that the Oliver was pushing her truck. I felt (though I wasn’t driving) that my brakes had seized — I heard the tires skidding on the road. As soon as we pulled into the campground, she used the gain control to test and the trailer brakes were indeed working. I could only see out my side, but the curb side wheels were turning, not dragging or seized up. We unhitched, and tried plugging the 7 pin into my truck — no error messages. At this point, a storm was coming down and the wind was picking up, so I put down my stabilizer jacks and got Oliver settled into the space. When I opened the door to my Oliver, I could smell burning rubber (I am pretty sure); no smell or smoke from under the aft dinette seat, and the wind was blowing so hard that the smell from outside was already dissipated. We looked at the highway and could see the skid marks — apparently only one tire, on the street side. Tomorrow I will raise the wheels and try to determine which tire it was. And then I will try to find and purchase a new Breakaway Emergency Brake switch and pin; I think there is one available in Raton (about an hour northeast of here). ** I don't know why my photos don't seem to show up correctly. This happens to me sometimes, but I am too tired to worry about it now. EDIT: I was able to insert them later, using my phone. **

I thought it was “all boots” but - I’m not a native Texan. 😂

The Apex X23: All hat and no cattle as the saying goes.

Great story! It's exactly why I'm a big RVlock fanboy! They are an underrated convenience. I can't count all the extra steps we've saved from having to fetch the elusive keys! I'm totally fine with my failures, I blame it on living in the great northwet rainforrest, where it even rains in my garage. I respect how they've used the failures to refine a more reliable and better quality product. The last free upgrade they sent looks well sealed, should last a long time! Their outstanding customer response is reason enough for me to be faithful to the brand! Besides, they're great looking too! They compliment the Olivers modern hi- tech look, and the neighbors are always impressed! Love the sound effects!

Yep, that's about it! They're just for looks. Besides A/C efficiency... Ah = Ah! 🤣 He already converted the 100 Ah 48v battery to be equivalent to 400 Ah on a 12V system. 600+ Ah on 12V is 200+ Ah better. One problem that can occur in a 48V RV system, is when the 48/12 DC-DC converter fails, you cannot use your trailer jacks, any cabin lighting, the CO detector, USB chargers, the fail-safe for the trailer brakes and every other 12VDC device (unless they also integrate a 12V battery).

Agreed its the same old chick dressed up in a different skirt, nothing really of substance here that one couldn't implement themselves and many or most of us have already such as the Bulldog shocks, LT off road tires etc. It preposterous they are promoting this as an off grid off road travel trailer yet still using the basic old leaf spring dexter axles rather than an independent suspension. The least they could have done was adopt the Curt independent suspension as so many others have for a better off road experience. Then there is the same old (mostly) bulldog hitch rather than a full articulating hitch. The gravel road they test drove this thing on is joke. This might be off road for back east but it sure isn't out west. And what on earth is the point of going off grid just to set in your camper and run the air conditioner just because you can. People out in this neck of the woods who choose to go off grid and off road are certainly not setting around knitting, watching tv in an air-conditioned camper. What happens when that solar awning jams, or gets off center and will not retract properly. The 48 volt system seems a bit weird too. There are several dozen more ruggedly built campers than this for off road and over landing that do not use a 48 volt system and get by fine with a tried and true 12 volt system. What happens is you have issues with that system in the middle of nowhere? The interior is certainly nice and at least theoretically love the new windows and shades but thats about it. All the black isn't appealing to me, might be to others. Not sure who is in charge of marketing at Oliver but man oh man this is making much ado about nothing. By no stretch of the imagination is this an off grid/off road camper any more than my old 2015 model is with some modifications. They really need to rethink this before releasing it to the public in its current configuration. Not impressed.

So long as your keys for your manual lock are always in you’re pocket, you’re golden. I never have to carry a key. Even when the lock “failed” it didn’t fail in a catastrophic way. We got the keyless lock as part of the electronics package. Honestly, the lock is the only thing in that package I’d buy again. We never use the backup camera, the cell booster is a joke, and the “auto-vent” isn’t really “auto”. I guess if someone wanted to be truly “manual”, they’d still have a knob on the dash for the choke, you could makes the same argument for that. Automatic chokes would frequently fail open or closed - causing a no start/hard start - or flooding. Maybe even a lever on the steering column for spark advance. (Let’s see how many know that reference!) Like I said - I’d gladly deal with the RVLock failing every six months than to have to put up with windows that can’t be opened - even a crack - when it rains - and leak even when they’re closed. It’s all a matter of scale. I can deal with RVLock via email and they do the right thing. Of the things that vex me about the Oliver - the RVLock barely merits a mention. I only bring it up because we’ve all agreed the windows inhale deeply and with great force, and the Dometic A/C is like putting a class D fluorescent ballast in a library.

The thing that gets me most is the tires. “Aggressive tread” for sure. Maybe they make sense, but they look like what you’d use if the trailer wheels were actually used to propel the thing. I suppose if you’re braking down a muddy hill they come in handy. Im not one easily impressed by trim and accents. But, seeing all the bright orange and lime green sports cars on the road these days, I guess I’m the old guy who’s behind the times.

Yup, and why on earth did Oliver switch from the MaxxAir fan with cover to that weird brand name fan without a cover? 🤷‍♂️ The issue is that the new fan will close in wet weather, so there’s no vent option while cooking in the rain. The MaxxAir with cover could stay open in wet weather, which would pair perfectly with the new awning windows that also stay open when it rains!

Aside from the 48volt electrical system and a few accessory changes, the main changes seem to be cosmetic - black trim and such.

The furnace, WHW and fridge vents were painted (see pic). Then I purchased new gray outlet boxes, LP hatch on doghouse, etc. I chose grey to match Oliver graphics and our TV is two-tone with grey in the lower sections. Didn't want more shades of white! I would love to have a grey door latch to match, but painting parts that are handled often is not a good idea. I could have replaced with the OEM chrome like shown in Rob's picture, but white powder-coat it is.

It is larger, that round section with all those numbered keys, plastic parts. Reminds me of the keyless entry system I had on an 80s T-bird. It was cool 40 years ago but they stopped putting them on cars long ago. I should remember to remove the "two emblems" before I renew our ceramic coating next time. I've removed every other label OTT plastered inside and out (about 20 of them)! In a post 3 years ago John E Davies wanted me to add warning labels to the rear emergency exit (just after I had removed them)! 🤣 I don't worry about code and insurance and all that rot. I need to remove the "black door bumper." I removed the door hook from the fiberglass last year (drilled out 4 rivets and filled holes). Just add Lippert friction hinges and you don't need any of that stuff. Best simple mod ever! Lippert Friction Hinge Kit for RV Entry Doors - White Over 90% of the feedback I've received on our grey trim has been positive! I'll mark you down with one other longtime Oliver owner as not liking them. It is my appearance mod theme! We love it over having 10 shades of white all over the body (see pic). Setting the bar awfully low! 🤣 I just replaced ours before it failed after 10 years of reliable service!

I have no idea what gave you the impression that I have dismissed anything. I've done my best, given no space to "work" on my Oliver (not at home and not in storage) and given no tools (very few, I should say, because ALL of them have to be stored in the truck or the trailer, as I have no garage). I take everything here to heart. Please cut me some slack. I'm trying, believe me, to end my nightmare.

Yes, but it’s a no-pressure kind of situation. I already have my “spare” RVLock installed, which I’ll just cycle out when the new one arrives. It’s either that, or toss out an item that still has life to it. Besides, I have so many spare parts I can keep these things going for years! As for our least favorite things - if EVERYTHING went smoothly ALL the time - we’d get bored. If only my leaky windows and LOUD A/C were so easily fixed - and at no cost to me - I’d be a happy camper. Actually, I’ve come to realize that -everything- that you own - car, home, board, trailer - requires maintenance, repairs, cleaning, etc, etc, etc. To avoid all of that - you’d have to live in a cave. (Aw nuts - I have to haul firewood and keep these things sabretooth tigers away?!)

Well, I appear to have spoken too soon. We’ve had several days of torrential rain and some pretty intense thunderstorms with high winds and flood warnings here in Starbuck, MN. Through the first few deluges it seemed we were all set. Last night - another wave of storms came through and I’m seeing a trickle of water now and then. It’s coming from between the frame of the window and the inner shell of of camper body - so it’s not filling and overflowing the track. It’s leaking out the bottom of the track. Perhaps the repair I did to the window stop screw wasn’t sufficient, or perhaps that screw holding the center muntin in through the bottom of the window frame is the culprit. Either way, I’m getting a little fed up with the lack of care that goes into building at $65,000 (at the time) trailer. It’s making it very difficult to answer the question: “So, how do you like your Oliver?” when people approach us at campgrounds…..

Well, RVLock sent out the parts of the lock that they thought would fix my problem. (Only partial retraction of the deadbolt when unlocking) They sent out pretty much all of the electronic parts: logic board, keypad, speaker board, as well as a new gasket. I explained that I would think it would be the mechanical parts, but they said that these were the parts that usually go bad, so we’d “try this first”. Im not stranger to home repairs - so I can pretty much dig into anything without too much concern a and I had “teched” this lock once already. Unfortunately, one of the screws that hold the keypad in was fused into the lock body. It snapped off upon trying to remove it. If that wasn’t bad enough, another screw adjacent to the snapped off one had no threads left in the body. One bad screw on the keypad would have been an iffy repair IMHO. Two would be a sure failure quickly - as every time you pressed a button on the lock the keypad would flex and eventually break. I contacted our person at RVLock and told them the above. Without a hesitation, they are sending me out a new lock. No charge. No shipping. Even making sure it has the same key code as our existing lock. So - if the product has issues - but the customer service is stellar - is that better it worse than a product that fails less often - cut getting CS is like pulling teeth?