Leaderboard

It was different, not necessarily better... I thought you (and others) might like to see the difference in the connections. I think our connectors and angle give us a bit more latitude in panel adjustment than the flat on the roof style usually used. For us, it was the only solution, and has worked well for (almost) ten years. I was pretty excited about solar power then. I still am. Trailer, now our home, eventually our sailboat, too, will run independently on quiet, nonemitting solar. We're still working on best way for a sailboat. Sails tend to shade everything... And, thank you for all the information and work that you put into your post. As always, so very helpful to others. Sherry

Here's a link to one of the early discussions on solar panels on the forum (2008). Rooftop v portable. If you go to the second page, you'll see some photos of our sidemount panels Fwiw, we're still friends with most of the people who joined into the discussion on this thread. Rereading it was a nice trip down memory lane for me. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/solar-panels/page/2/?wall_post=46206 Sherry

We use the original am solar bars on our panels, but our panels are sidemount, ( already angled), not flat like yours. Back in 2008, they were part of the package.... They work well for ours, though we rarely adjust them unless we know we will be in the shade for several days. Sherry

I don't have a Ford, but a little search shows me that you could mount the sticker on the front surface of the tray, no problem. That surface is 14" back from the ball on my trailer. Here is an Airstream with it mounted this way. I recommend that you install it directly over the tongue. Use some masking tape as guidelines so you can get it straight and pretty. [attachment file=Backup Assist Sticker vertical.jpg] I stole that pic from this thread: ... http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464/ford-backup-assist-sticker-placement-154225.html One member says this: Just saw a post on the F150 Forum: They confirmed to me that it can be placed either horizontally or vertically as long as it is within their "green zone" of 7" to 22". 14 inches puts it dead center in the green zone. I would not be without the storage tray. It is a valuable accessory. Caution: as newbies you will really enjoy the Backup Assist feature, but be sure to practice hooking up with it turned off, so you are able to do it if the system does not work as advertised. You can talk to each other on your cell phones, but also buy a cheap set of walkie talkies for when there is no wireless signal, and keep them in the front of the cab. You will use them when you are backing into a tight campsite, for example, or to maneuver out of a dead end street that you mistakenly entered. It does happen, even to those who are very experienced. Having reliable communications with your assistant really helps you stay calm. Welcome to the Forums. John Davies Spokane WA

The mounts that Oliver uses for the solar panels are from AM solar and they carry two sizes of tilt bars that work very well. If your not inclined to make your own or like the embeded nut on the AM solar bars for ease use check out their site. https://amsolar.com/rv-mounting-accessories/91m-tbs195

Telesteps ladder. Amazon has them. Beware of the “other brands” that may fail or are flimsy. The model that I purchased was the OSHA approved model that has a higher weight rating and seems to be a little stronger.

Most likely the reason your gate valve is not closing completely is because the cable has slipped slightly where it attaches to the vertical slide on the valve. To fix it: loosen the set screw where the cable attaches to the gate valve slide, manually push the gate down to firmly seat it, push the cable handle completely in, tighten the set screw. This will re-adjust the blade where it is completely down when the cable is pushed completely in. Whenever you have to do this process, it is a good idea to lubricate the cable and the inside of the housing also. To lubricant the cable: while the set screw is loose, pull the outside handle to remove the entire cable from the housing. Wipe the cable with a clean rag along its entire length. As you re-insert the cable, spray with a lubricant such as silicone or WD-40. Work the cable back and forth a few times to distribute the lubricant. Tighten the set screw. This process will be a four-handed project. You will have to be inside to guide the cable back into the gate valve while someone outside is easing the handle into place.