Mainiac

You would almost think with a fuse panel next to the monitor that is where the fuse should be? Also the wiring diagram in the owners manuals should have the correct color code for the wire? But the important thing is to find a 1 amp fuse before you need one. Hate to put a larger fuse in there and have it never blow., and maybe it would scream at you, and the campground, from 3 to 5 AM. Have you tried pulling that fuse? It was one of the most difficult fuses to pull because of a non ridged holder. A heads up to find before you need to makes sense...

Was looking at my fuse panel to make sure I knew what size fuses to get for spares. (I did noticed the factory had put an undersized fuse on one circuit). That is when I noticed the CO/LP monitor was off. How long it has been off is unknown. I looked around and could find no obvious source of power. I looked in the owners manual and the wiring diagram states: Note not to scale, but colors are accurate. That appears not to be true. The diagram says the wires are blue, but they are red.? A call to Oliver parts and Service connected me with Jason. He said under the back street side bed, in the electrical area (the one next to the pantry) there is a circuit breaker. The breaker has a red button. When you push the button a yellow 'flag' opens up. Under that, on a red wire, is an inline spade fuse holder. That holder has a 1 amp fuse. My fuse was blown. In my area, no one carries a 1 amp spade fuse. We went to 6 different auto parts dealers. We had them order for us and 4 only cost $2.50. To have them could be a life saver. I have no idea why such a small device would ever blow a fuse. It is definitely something we will keep an eye on, and test quite regularly. An interesting circuit breaker, and really the only time I have had to get into that compartment. It was surprisingly clean, hardly any fiberglass dust, or dust of any kind.

I have 'hooked up' near the end of February in Maine. That was after cutting a road through two feet of snow with the tractor. 4:30 the next morning we were on our way. We were very comfortable inside when we stopped. But a couple of things we did NOT do, we did not flush the antifreeze from the system, nor did we fill the water tank. We did use the toilet and we flushed with RV antifreeze. We also had a case of bottled water. Everything else was as normal. We were dodging 3 more "NorEasters" as we headed toward the Mason-Dixon Line. Once we were safely into warmer weather (still damn chilly last year), we flushed the lines, filled the tank, and slowed our pace. We were looking for Roses to stop and smell...

Makes the Oliver look like a real bargain. Flyte Camp does fine work, as you can see on their TV show ' Flipping RVs'...

A trick we used on a sailboat for storage, tie a line (rope) to the crate before sliding it all the way in. Leave the lines by the door. Makes it a lot easier to retrieve the crates...

By closing the main cabin vents a little will force more air into the bath. But you shouldn't have to do that in a balanced system. The factory has already reduced the 4" to 3", which creates a venturi effect to the the bath. I always try to be careful in adjusting air flow, knowing moving air is cooling air. The high return still strikes me as the easiest and most efficient method. Go into your bath, turn on the exhaust, close the door, and listen to the fan motor. Open the door and hear the fan motor and blades relax. It becomes obvious it needs more air..

Two things come to mind: make a cone out of aluminum flashing or heavy poster (cardboard) and duct tape to heat outlet in bathroom. The other end of the cone (leaving a smooth hole for string)duct tape to a shop vac. The vac can stay outside in case the filter isn't fine enough to catch all the particles. Tie a crunched up sandwich bag to a piece of string and suck it through the duct work. To the other end of the string tie a plastic bag or a t-shirt scrap. Haul that through the duct along with another piece of string. Then you can pull the cleaning rag back and forth. Tie them well so they don't get lost in there. With a crevice tool other spaces could be cleaned fairly well. I am also going to remove what looks like surplus duct in the water pump compartment. That has to create more resistance to smooth air flow and I see no obvious reason that it is there except somebody didn't want to cut it? You said your bathroom doesn't seem to heat well? I have noticed when the exhaust fan is running and the door closes it struggles to get enough air, creating a negative air situation. By the same token when the heater is blowing it must create a positive pressure situation and the heated air would struggle to get out and flow smoothly. I also would like a smooth duct as there would be less turbulence and a more efficient flow of air. In my 2017 hull we are going to put a small circular vent in the wall between the bath and the main cabin. Looking at the bathroom door from the outside the vent will be in the upper left side. Being there it should not be a problem and out of the zone where a shower water might intrude. That should help by providing a return for the heated air during heating season, and provide air for the vent when that is running.

I agree that the OTT decision to replace is an exemplary solution. But it still doesn't answer the question. How did it happen? If should be "drilled down" to find the cause. I am sure it would be, and there certainly is not any reason to publish the findings. However a simple check may indeed prevent others from experiencing the same kind of disaster out in the field. Hopefully it was a one of a kind incident, but in an assembly line the odds are against it.

This begs the question: evidently the sub-frame is not made in house, and comes pre-drilled. Surely they must use some type of jig to properly postion the unit before drilling the frame? How many others out there were drilled and mounted wrong? Did he indicate that maybe the sub-frame was predrilled in the wrong place? Would it be possible to get a measurement from a known reference point to a properly mounted sub-frame so those others out there could check ours? To the naked eye, an inch out might not be obvious. I have seen the jig they make the frame in, and have assumed the sub-frame was mounted there, as they were mounting axles before flipping the frame and jig over...

If plenty of pressure at the pedestal, I would shut it off. Then I would turn on the pump and see what that pressure looks like. If the pump works ok, the lines and faucets are ok. If the pump system is ok I would recheck, one by one, all the valves again. I have taken a copy of the valve picture in the manual and keep it in the valve compartment. The next question I would have is what did the Service department do? What might they have done, especially if all was ok before they touched it?

How would it be to replace the 'what ever it is' with a marine hatch? What ever I try to put behind the existing bars do not fit, or get wet. I can't imagine I would replace the existing unit more than once, maybe twice...

Walter is in S.Thomaston, which is a peninsula south of Ellsworth. Who was in Ellsworth? One thing we found out about spending time in Addison, take a real good book. You probably will have time to read it twice...

Nope, not us. Ours is sitting in a field about 60 miles south of there. It has just been put back together inside after threading a new WiFi booster antenna wire. The old antenna had some how vanished. Maybe a low hanging branch? The whip was gone, but the magnet part was still there. You would have thought anything hitting the whip hard enough to break it off would have "popped" the magnet. An aside: according to Jason, the factory uses white silicone to seal the hole, stating more flexible than other choices. Knew we carried a small tube for a reason. Our TV is a Ram, Forrest Green. That means it is green if the sun is on it directly. Otherwise it is black. The OTT has a State of Maine outline blue with the state seal on the nose instead of the usual logo. Might be Walter Jenkins..he is going into Lobster Bouy CG?

I carried the 10'er. Seemed very stable. I did find I never used it, it is quite heavy and was a little awkward to get out of the closet. Despite all the warning labels, be careful, it will pinch a lazy finger. For the moment it sleeps in the garage, probably until the first time I need it on the road...

If they leave the hitch off, at the factoryy, how are they going to move it to the showroom for pickup or around?

A good read while waiting for delivery. Or as a refresher, to be sure we are doing things right...

Ice cubes only go in the tank when going down the road. As they move and help a 'splash' effect, to clean, they melt. We certainly wouldn't put enough in there to cause the condensation. We would want plenty of room for the 'stuff' to move around. Doesn't your unit have a built in black tank flush port anyway? Mine is located on the curb side stern (back) side. Using that should eliminate any need for use of a high pressure wand. We do have a stick type of device that lowers into the toilet opening, that has a directional jet stream and an on and off valve. We had it for another SOB (some other brand) unit to eliminate a "pyramid of doom". But experience has taught us we can leave that at home. Just in case...

With the little yellow tester we also have a 30/15 amp adapter. In some pedestals (campground power pole) the 30 amp and 15/20 amp have separate breakers or feeds. One might work, but the other might not. The tester with adapter is a quick way to be sure. We keep it in the door of the tow vehicle so that it is quick and easily accessible, especially at set up. Many times, especially in some of the older campgrounds here in the east, we have been able to help our fellow campers with the little yellow tester.

The little yellow tester lets you test at the pedistal. If everything there is ok you know the problem is with your trailer. If it is not ok you know it imediately, and you don't have to in to read the meter. If it is ok, then check the plug at the trailer end. On the way by look at the microwave, if it is on you are ok. If not, check the GFI, it is the most common spot to trip. I have the portable Progressive to protect my trailer, but use the little yellow tester first. It has also helped protect the Progressive. I know a fulltimer that has had to have his replaced/repaired twice. He now checks his pedistal with the little yellow tester before plugging in...

Do you have one of those little yellow testers? Or a meter? It could be as simple as an open ground or reversed polarity at the pedestal. Progressive shuts down for that...

Can't respond to private messages. Can't access my Account. Can't access my profile. Think it started when name or "handle" was changed, but access path was not updated at the same time.

Those little "bits" of plastic are why you shouldn't use a hacksaw to cut plastic pipe. A razor knife leaves a whole lot less "bits". My guess is yours were a results of the holesaw used on you tank. You might want to raise your tongue and flush your tank several times. Might as well sanitize the system while at it...

A hat, a coffee cup, a fleece vest, a fleece full zip jacket, maybe a wind breaker/rain jacket. Of course a key fob for the trailer keys, but that would probably be a "free-be" with the trailer purchase. A decal for the TV rear window and a bumper sticker. And I suppose there probably will be every available option for the Oliver Travel Trailer on display in the store as well. So many choices. Ok, guess we will take them all...

While you are in the compartment looking, check the fuses. The chart on the door doesn't match the fuses that the factory installed, at least in mine. The chart shows the basement should be 15 amp. However what they actually installed was a 7.5 amp. Now I have not had any problems and the 7.5 amp has not blown, so it may be adequate. I guess my concern is if the fuse blows and it is replaced by the 15 amp, have we created a problem? But I also found that I need to carry a fuse removal tool. Laying on the floor trying to look around the door, holding a flashlight, fuses are hard to get too. We also pushed the test button on the propane/monoxide under there too. It did not go off. There is our immediate next project...

Randy, my thoughts too. Guess we will have to check ours at some point.