Mainiac

I also believe there is a Ford recall that will reprogram this condition. It was listed on here somewhere, and a friend had it done to his. His trailer problem was solved and he had a SOB (some other brand). Maybe something like hydraulic over electric.

Maybe that master disconnect switch should be mounted right up front. Somebody turns it to on, a relay activates a siren sounds for three minutes or so. Shutting it off would not silent the alarm. The real switch to activate the jacks could be inside the main door?

Welcome to the Oliver family. The Oliver is a whole lot like a boat, as far as systems go, except there isn't a built in compass. Also there isn't a Harbor Master making everybody park pointing the same way. Welcome aboard and enjoy...

If pump pressure is fine, but not city water, I would start at the valves. Want to screw on a short hose on outlet side of valve and open into bottle. If no pressure kinked line or plugged inlet? Turn each valve to be sure working smoothly. Check manual to get proper handle position. Remember, if handle is a cross the line it is closed. If running with the line, it is open. I took a photocopy of valve positions and keep it in that compartment to refer too .

I am under the impression that those lights are leds. That being said I would guess you replace the whole unit. Evidently the new units do not have that gasket that leaks black streaks, so I would call Oliver and order a new one. Also ask what they seal it with. Guess you could swap with one you don't use?

We use a Camp Chef. It is a two burner unit with an oven. We have even baked a cake in it. Biscuits too. We have a grill/griddle that we modified to fit the burners...

I have a 6" torpedo level that we keep near the door. When putting the unit on a site we get an idea how level or how much adjusting we might have to do before unhooking. Fore and aft on the tongue gives me an idea about whether or not I will have to raise to disconnect, or disconnect, move the TV, and lower. By putting the level cross wise I know about how level from side to side before disconnecting, in case I have to move. A final check on the rear bumper confirms. Legos on one side , if needed, level the front. Only then do we lower the rear stablizers onto 11" blocks. We confirm with the rear number and then put the level away. This system has worked for many years. Never heard of, nor would want to, jack under or near the axles. Can't imagine the time and stability issues that could raise...

We have just standard mirrors on our Ram 2500. We can see down both sides of the Oliver without a problem. We use the rear Oliver camera when passing another vehicle. With a reach over to turn on the camera we know when it is safe to pull back in. We also turn it on in heavier traffic to watch the 'zip zips' trying to gain an extra foot in the right lane, or the tailgaters. We do find to leave the camera on all the time is a distraction.

Of course you can always get a trailer hitch that mounts on the front of the truck. Then, as you run down the road, you can watch for any wobble. The added benefit is you can maneuver the Oliver into tight spots easier. Should then not upset the balance or hitch weight...

We have also had licensed electricians wire up a 30 amp RV outlet to 220 volts. Because, they said, it looked like a range or dryer outlet to them. Best to test...

Got to the Elite I and tried to start the video. It starts and then kicks me all the way out after the second try. Trying to use an Amazon Fire...

We tie a light line (rope) to the crate to pull the crates out. We have an extendable boat hook we use to push them in. The boat hook has the double benefit of being able to screw on a brush to wash the Oliver with. You might want to consider having at least one standard milk crate. A 20 or 30 lb. LP tank will fit in there securely. The crate keeps the tank from rolling around when you take them to refill.

Over 36 hours and still have not heard back from them. Maybe closed this week??

At one time Oliver was quietly looking at RV techs/dealers that they could/would recommend around the country. It kind of looks like Jerry's might be put on Oliver's list? At the least it looks like the kind of place we all might not mind visiting...

Welcome, and ask away (we all did when we started). I noticed a huge fiberglass smell while touring the factory. I didn't see any vacuum or air filter system and a lot of fiberglass dust around. However, once we got our camper, (it had been sitting outside for about a month), there was surprising little remaining smell. We did find some inside some of the screwed tight compartments along with dust. At least there wasn't any of that formaldehyde smell you get from SOBs (some other brands). Think it comes from the glues in paneling and carpets, and none of that in the Oliver. Nice thing is you can open a vent and not worry about rain entering, as the vent is protected. Safe Travels...

Indeed..sounds like the tank drain was open. We have gotten into the habit, when winterizing, to return all valves back to operating positions. We even do that with the waterheater bypass valve(s). It has saved us from those memory lapses that happens over the winter sometimes. As a shutdown/startup routine we start at one corner and do a slow walk around checking valve and switch positions. Then we go inside and do it in there. Just something that has worked for us, after a few "mis-steps early in our journey. (Is there a pump switch in the bathroom?) Enjoy the journey.... Hopefully the water pump was not on with the tank being empty. Running a pump without water is not recommended. A pump comes up to pressure and shuts off, hence you might not hear it being on as you walk away. Then as the water drains and the pressure drops, the pump comes on and has nothing to pump. Not sure that scenario would blow a fuse or not? But could damage a pump. If finding nothing obvious electrical in pump circuit, I would bench test the pump...

It's in the manual, but it's not there as it is not needed? How does this work? Is there a hose connection for it still on the outside? What is now the process? Those of us that show our camper, in the referral program, you think they might inform us of the change! It is always nice to pass on complete and accurate information, to the next generation...

As ScubaRX stated... I have had that happen to me. Don't know how it happened. But setting it to 'Auto' and we were back to normal.

We use a thin line (rope) to pull crates out. We use a boat hook that you can screw a brush onto to push the crates back. We use trays that Coke comes in (given to us by the pallet from a food bank). Thhey are lower and slide nice...

While in the fuse box check the fuse installed to the diagram on the door. I found a couple that were to small. That said, I am hoping the diagram was right. Another note was a 2 amp fuse for back up, and no one had one. We ordered 5 for the tool box...

One piece, many colors, installed at a camp ground. Has micro grooves in the back to let any bubbles out. It was easier to install than the the hull # provided by Oliver. Was about $80 and she ships. Bannana Banners...

We made some (2) blocks out of a 6 X 6 X 11". We use these under the rear stabilizers. The stabilizers are power hogs, so this just saves some juice. If I get into a real uneven site I can lay it sideways and still save some power. I did drill a hole about 1 1/2" from one end and spliced a short line (rope) to give me a handle. We do carry some of those 'Lego' type blocks, because we had some, and have only used a few once. We have a block for under the front stabilizer, just so it doesn't sink into soft soil.

We love the Oliver with solar. Our wife uses a Cpap machine. We might stop at a rest area or maybe a state park without hookups. To have power to run the furnace and water pump is a bonus...

Hi, Just for our info: what is your suspension issue?