ScubaRx

We have traditionally camped at or near these coordinates off Dome Rock Road west of Quartzsite. N 33.642439 W 114.307646 If you're coming into Quartzsite on Interstate 10 from the East (headed West) do not take any of the exits marked Quartzsite. If you do you will likely become snarled in traffic. Instead, continue West on I-10 until you see the Exit 11 - Dome Rock Road sign. Exit to your right and follow the road turning left to go back under the Interstate. Continue on a few hundred feet and turn left onto Dome rock road. You will begin to see folks camped along either side of the road but within 2-3 miles you will be nearing the coordinates I've provided. From there we will be off the right side of the road and you'll just have to look for a group of Oliver's. We should not be too hard to spot. Most of us will be there around the 2nd to 3rd week in January and will likely stay for a couple of weeks. This time frame will allow you to visit the Big Tent show. Hope to see you there. Contact me directly if you need more information.

We will be there with possibly another Oliver Owner in tow. Leaving here 2nd week in January. Expecting arrival to coincide with the opening of the big tent.

The NTSB (National Transportation Safety Board) investigates transportation accidents to find causes and makes safety recommendations, while the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) sets and enforces vehicle safety standards, conducts recalls, and creates regulations, essentially acting as the rule-maker and enforcer to the NTSB's investigator/advisor role, though both focus on U.S. transportation safety. NTSB looks backward at incidents (planes, trains, cars) to prevent future ones, whereas NHTSA looks forward, setting rules for cars on the road today, including new tech like automated driving systems (ADS).

Would work perfectly. Less trouble, winner winner.

Your hull #124 was built before that buss modification was added. All of the early models were fused at the jacks, just like the front jack. You should find an inline fuse in the power wire near the rear jack heads.

We bought our first Travel Trailer in early 2008. It was Oliver Hull #026, one of the first group of 46 Oliver Elites built between 2007 and 2009. As some of our members probably already know, the trailer line shut down in late 2009 due to a dramatic sag in the economy. No employees were laid off, instead they were moved into other areas of Oliver such as the tub line. Standard equipment on one of the original Elites included a satellite dish on the roof, an electric cord reel that automatically rewound the power cord back into the body, air conditioner, heater, television, audio system, microwave, refrigerator, outside retractable awning, bathroom and three electric leveling (yes, leveling) jacks. Some of these items had optional availability on other fiberglass trailers (Casita, Bigfoot, Escape, etc.) but not one of those manufacturers had all of them as standard equipment and a good many items on that list were not even available at any cost. All this on a trailer that was selling for under $30K. The electric leveling jacks were the absolute stand out among the fiberglass trailer crowd. No other fiberglass trailer manufacturer even offered them. But with them, you could stabilize and level your trailer with the touch of only three buttons. And, as Sherry stated, the rear jack switches were located near each tire and the jacks could be observed while operating them. As the new Elite II builds were coming together it was realized that the outside body molds were different from the ones in the old Elite and the area where the Elite rear jack switches had been located was completely different and there was no place for the switches to go. They asked where they should be mounted and I had them place mine in waterproof boxes built into the sides of the trailer. I also had them extend the wiring from those switches into the left and right areas of the overhead cabinet in the rear. After delivery, I used that extra wiring to make remote inside switches to control the rear jacks. I did the same for the front jack. Now we can comfortably setup or breakdown in the rain using the controls on the inside. Sometime in early 2015, about a year after we had taken possession of the first Oliver Elite II produced in 2014 (Hull # 050), we were at the factory for some reason. John Oliver, (Jim and Evon’s youngest and only child) who was over production of the trailer line at the time, approached me and asked my opinion on a modification they were planning. The placement of the rear jack switches had always created an issue and their new plan was to move them to the front of the trailer where they would be near the front jack. “Now”, he said, “all the jacks can be controlled from a central area. What do you think?” My reply was that I thought it was a “...terrible idea.” I explained that you need to be able to observe the jack while operating it. He disagreed. I told him that I would hate it and I figured the future owners would hate it and the company would have to eventually backtrack and move them back to the rear. It took a while for them to do something about it but I can’t tell you how many times I was questioned by owners as to WHO thought it would be a good idea to put those switches at the FRONT of the trailer. And now you know the rest of the story...

Scott called me the other day about an unrelated matter but while we were on the phone I asked him about the vinyl decals. He stated that he was not exactly sure about the cost to the customer for the front Big “O” and the two rear sides. There was a time that they cut all their own vinyl lettering. Because of this we could usually get whatever we wanted as far as colors etc. As most of you probably already know, the person that did all the computer work for the graphics and ran the vinyl cutting machine has left and there is nobody there now that knows how to operate any of that system. For that reason, they are farming out all their graphic work. That is probably why the price is so high. It’s been several months since I was at the factory, but at that time back in the service department there was a huge pigeon hole type cabinet with the “O” graphics stacked inside in all different combinations of colors. There were the big ones and a smaller version that was only six inches across. I don’t know if that was new old stock. I would doubt Scott knew they were even back there. In additional news, for those of you that had met Jason Ballentine the service manager know now that he has left Oliver and they have a new service manager. His name is Randall Mayberry. They have a new lady (I don't recall her name) that is working behind the desk as you enter the showroom outer office. One of the former salesmen, Jason/Justin Lindsey/Lindley (you will note that I’m terrible with names) has returned and they now have a staff of three full time sales personnel.

I would suggest a bigger bogger truck. 😊😊😊 Seriously, we have a GMC Canyon with a diesel engine. But we tow with our Silverado 3500HD diesel. Move up to a 2500 or 3500 and you’ll be set.

Really, Really nice installation. And you can't beat the price. Very good work!

The main grounding buss is under the aft dinette seat. It is attached to the frame. Oliver does not supply wiring diagrams to owners. You do know that RV wiring is not like that in your home? The neutral and ground wires in an RV are isolated from each other.

You state that you own an Ollie but the membership profile that you filled out says that you Do Not own an Oliver. Is this a recent purchase and you've just failed to update your information? Please take care of it.

No graphics are currently included on a new build. This is in response to many of the latest buyers requesting the trailers be delivered naked. So there you go.

The Outlaw Oliver Hull #050

To the best of my knowledge, Oliver NEVER used an EZ-Flex without zerks. Are you saying there are no tapped holes in the equalizer? If there are holes, I stand by the answer I gave you on Facebook, they either broke off or came unscrewed and fell out. Either way to properly replace the zerks, you will have to drop the equalizer to properly service the zerks.

https://rvelectricity.substack.com/p/gmi-grounding-monitor-interrupter