ScubaRx

I installed disk brakes on our Oliver over a year ago. It is some work but not beyond doing for someone that has tools and the inclination. So as to not hijack this thread you can read about that venture here. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/topic/mods-of-the-outlaw-oliver/page/3/?wall_post=34117 Follow up on performance after about 25K Miles. No issues whatsoever. Disks are still perfectly smooth x 4. No fluid loss anywhere.

It seems as if the problem of inadvertent openings and too short screw failures started around the time of the switch from the side slides to the bottom slides. Our old hull #050 has the side slides and I can’t imagine the lateral forces it would take to make them open in a right hand turn. Our rear nightstand drawer has come open (understandably) during a hard braking action, but that was solved with a turn latch like the ones on all the other doors. Those bottom slides probably are the best there is in a static situation (like your kitchen at home), but perhaps not so much in a dynamic setting.

Good question, but it would really depend on the time of year and the area of the country you travel. John didn’t mention the south but, because of the heat, humidity plus the fact that kids are out of school, we don’t generally camp here between May and October. If we do, we use the AC sometimes but probably not nearly as much as folks from more northerly climes might suspect. We’ve been out for the past month and have probably used the AC fewer than 24 total hours. If your question was designed to help you decide whether to include an air conditioner, I would most assuredly recommend it. You WILL need it sometimes, and when you do, nothing else will work.

Nick, thanks for the very informative post, but if you read really close, you’ll notice this thread is about generators.

There is a promise that I (and I believe most owners) would be comfortable making to any prospective owner... “You will never be sorry you bought an Oliver”

Yes, you are correct, access to the tubing is gained from the inside of the trailer. Sorry I was not clear enough.

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The steel subframe is mounted to the aluminum main frame with bolts going from one side to the other rather than top to bottom. When the body is dropped onto the frame it covers the two front most and the two rear most bolts precluding simply “unbolting” the sub frame. However, it could be accomplished by detaching and supporting the body then lowering and removing the entire frame from underneath. The subframe could then be relocated on the main frame and the process reversed. But an easier and far less costly fix would be to simply rework the rear edges of the fender skirts to give the proper clearance.

Our 2014 (hull # 050) came with Michelin XPS RIB LT225/75R16’s. What is the current standard tire size?

I was not referring to removing items, rather going inside for mods or maintenance. I guess it’s just me. I’ve been in there dozens of times for various reasons.

There are two catchment tub’s, one on either side of the air-conditioner bottom, joined in the middle with a tee. From there one tube leads to the bottom of your Oliver.

Will the cargo door still fold completely down? If not it would make it virtually impossible to crawl into the basement without damaging the hatch.

These are the same fittings that Oliver has been using since 2008. The fitting is designed to come apart apparently so you can replace the outer assembly without removing the entire fitting.

It appears that some people aren’t as excited to get theirs as I was. Some of them have been sitting there for months.

Since I'm the only owner from Mississippi flying our Official State Flag, I assume this is aimed at me. Please let me know where the problem lies.

No, just like yours and everyone else. I don't have an explanation, just an observation.

I’ve never had a single streak.

Be patient...

For the 2” bulldog coupler you do indeed need the model 2178-B. For those with the 2 5/16” bulldog coupler, you need the 2516-B. These locks are probably the best and most reliable on the market. I own the 2516-B and if I had any negative thing to say it would be how heavy it is. BUT, were it not this heavy it would not be nearly as effective as it is.

I saw about 50 Oliver’s parked beside a pond in Alabama today. Looked like they were having some kind of meeting or something.

The back frame weighs about 20 pounds. Oliver rates it to carry 100 pounds. I built a frame utilizing the dual receivers a few years ago and Oliver used this as the prototype for their bike rack platform. I use mine to mount a basket that I carry large, but bulky, items like tables and chairs in. My total (empty) setup weighs 65 pounds. Aside from any concerns about upsetting the balance of the trailer, I would be ok with up to 400 pounds back there. The rear platform and attachment points would fail before the trailer frame would.

You should be an owner soon, I saw your trailer at the factory every day this week. Nice front logo... And...so as to not be totally off topic, I am getting notifications for private messages.

I don't have any gas quick fittings as these were not available as accessories when my trailer was built. Do I understand it correctly that if you utilize one of them the regulator needs to be removed from whatever appliance you're using?

There will apparently be a display model at the Eggs on the Hiawassee Rally. From what I understand, there will be five different manufacturers represented there. Our very on Phil Andrews from Oliver will have a 18.5 footer there. It should be a really good rally, not as good as the Oliver rally, but still worth going to. LOL