ScubaRx

I've been searching about a year for a system that I could monitor multiple points in the trailer all reporting to a single display. I was in the process of designing my own when I stumbled onto this system a few weeks ago. I don't have an interest in remote monitoring so this outfit would serve all my needs. You can buy it configured for 3, 5 or 8 remote transmitters.

Pull the gasket completely out all around, top to bottom. Push the slider until it’s nearly closed and it will pop out of the frame at the top.

Sorry for the slight hijack. We are going to the Boler Rally to help represent Oliver. Are you planning to attend too?

I always take the sliding window completely out. Then you can really do a great job with the gaskets and the trough in the bottom of the window frame. Before replacing everything, I spray the gasket with silicone.

Grayson, that’s your sacrificial anode rather than the heating element. It is doing its job and is still in good shape. Nothing to be concerned about at this point.

The only ways I can interpret this statement is that you either did not read my post about the overturned Oliver or you read it and did not believe me. IF you didn’t believe what I said and need your own visual proof before making a purchase decision, then I submit you probably will never own an Oliver because you are unlikely to ever be in a position to witness such. I believe you will be hard to please but I still wish you luck I’m done...

Bill, I have never rebuilt one of these valves but that kit does look like what you would need to do so. On a further note, I believe you stated that you were able to manually push the blade valve down into the seated position. Is that correct? If so, that makes me wonder how that is possible if the gasket is rolled. At any rate, taking the valve apart and rebuilding it is not a bad idea. Hopefully, this will get your problem fixed. Oh yes, make sure you have the black tank completely emptied and clean before taking that valve apart ????

In the original design stage of the Oliver Elite II, the plan was to employ molded-in ductwork. Unfortunately, the RVIA nixed that idea. Personally, I thought it was a great idea.

I don’t know if John meant to imply that an “Oliver would not flip over” but I do know I didn’t gather that. Of course, simple physics would dictate that anything will flip over if enough lateral force is applied. Obviously, any manufacturer that claimed in writing what you said would be opening up a can of litigious worms. But to add some information as to what would happen to an Oliver if it were involved in an accident I can offer a few facts. There have been “several” incidents involving Oliver’s. One accident involved the coach flipping over and sliding down the pavement for some distance. When the wrecking company personnel finished putting the Oliver back on its tires they commented that they had NEVER seen a trailer survive an accident that took it off its wheels. In fact, the owner continued on his way albeit with some serious road rash. So yes, there is evidence “that an Oliver is better or any less destructible than any other trailer when it comes to mishaps...” We understand that you are looking to buy and are (wisely) exploring choices. An Oliver Travel Trailer is different from other trailers in so many ways it’s hard to enumerate them all. We are all here to answer any questions or address any concerns. Good luck in your quest.

Most likely the reason your gate valve is not closing completely is because the cable has slipped slightly where it attaches to the vertical slide on the valve. To fix it: loosen the set screw where the cable attaches to the gate valve slide, manually push the gate down to firmly seat it, push the cable handle completely in, tighten the set screw. This will re-adjust the blade where it is completely down when the cable is pushed completely in. Whenever you have to do this process, it is a good idea to lubricate the cable and the inside of the housing also. To lubricant the cable: while the set screw is loose, pull the outside handle to remove the entire cable from the housing. Wipe the cable with a clean rag along its entire length. As you re-insert the cable, spray with a lubricant such as silicone or WD-40. Work the cable back and forth a few times to distribute the lubricant. Tighten the set screw. This process will be a four-handed project. You will have to be inside to guide the cable back into the gate valve while someone outside is easing the handle into place.

John, will Suburban not warranty the old board? You’ve still got it to send back. Then you’d have an extra. The same board will work in the water heater or the furnace.

The anodes are attached after the frame and sub-frame are mated. Nothing critical, just drill a hole and pop riveted on.

We made friends with a couple from Winnipeg when we led the Southern Utah Tour last year. They were traveling in a 40-something year old Boler. Coy has asked us to attend the Rally with him. I’ve spoken with our friends and they will be attending.

Oliver makes the subframes. They then send them out to be hot-dip galvanized.

Voilà

The installation of these valves is high on my list of to-do’s. They are manually operable in case of failure (mechanical or electrical). You do not have to remove or modify any of the plumbing to install.

My door will close with the handles pulled. You can always install the electric valves and eliminate having to pull the handles at all.

The couple parked next to us at the Hiawassee rally was pulling their Elite II with a diesel Canyon or Colorado (sorry I can’t recall which). They claimed it did a fine job. Based on this information, pulling an Elite should prove to be a spectacular combination. And very cool, in my opinion.

Was this not the exact problem the Cash’s were having at the rally? He posted about it here, but I don’t recall ever reading a solution.

As Bill stated, that is a Golight Wireless Remote Control LED Spotlight. It is mounted on a custom mast. We use it to help us get into spaces after dark. It comes in real handy if there’s a need to spotlight wildlife like Sasquatch and such. Also, if we are boodocking someplace, I will pre-aim it to light up an area (such as the entrance to where we’re parked) in case something goes bump in the night. It’s just fun to use, and it’s bright, it will light up the dark side of the moon ?. Not really...

Parked beside this guy overnighting in a truckstop in Greentown, PA.

Please make sure that your wife understands that trailer lengths are measured from the tip of the tongue to the back of the rear bumper. Their advertised lengths do not reflect actual usable area. The inside of an Elite II will measure about 18 feet while the Elite will be just under 14 feet.

In the past I’ve used everything from 3M-4000 to nothing at all. I need to remove it again soon for something new I’m gonna try. Based on the fact that the factory is now using some sort of silicone caulk (it’s my understanding), I will probably use that this time. The 4000 stuff is awfully expensive since it generally hardens before I need it again. I also have an idea about making a permanent gasket that I plan to experiment with while I have the insert out. If it works I’ll post the particulars.

What’s the GCWR of the Sprinter van? While the towing capacity is just barely ok, I fear it might not leave you much (weight) room for cargo.

While a lavatory inspection port in the closet is a good idea, the notion of doing any meaningful work through it seems a bit of a stretch to me. The front of the bathroom vanity is easily removed and allows sufficient room to install or remove just about anything. I’ve had ours out a bunch of times for many of my various modifications, mostly to facilitate running wiring.