ScubaRx

Aww shucks, twern’t nothin’. That’s why we’re here and not trolling Facebook.

Apparently you have the translucent doors? The other three options (black, white and mirrored) don’t have that characteristic. The only solution would be to change that door’s ability to transmit light. You could paint the backside!!!

I doubt there’s a problem. A piece of fiberglass will squeak when flexed or moved while in contact with another piece. The shower pan is a separate piece fiberglass and is in contact with the interior hull. In addition, if there is any grit under the pan it may create a noise when stepped on. The shower pan on our first Oliver cracked and I replaced it. The pan in the newer models are about 5 times thicker.

At some point in time Oliver started putting a separate 12vdc fuse/breaker panel in the upper rear cabinet. Check that to see if there's a fan circuit. If so, it will kill power to both the Maxxfan and the bathroom fan.

Check your temperature setting on the fan.

Twas I that posted about the USB/Barrel Jack cable.

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Gwenne, You are not alone with the need to use a CPAP machine. Both myself and my wife now use machines at night. When we owned our previous 2008 Oliver Elite, I had not yet been diagnosed with sleep apnea and was not using a CPAP, but Tali just placed her machine on the floor and plugged it into a 12vdc outlet installed under the side dinette. This was always a hassle as it needed to be packed away each morning to get it out of the way. During the build of our twin bed Oliver LEII back in late 2013, I knew that we needed a place for the machines to live. Here’s what I did. I had the guys on the line install 12v outlets inside each of the overhead rear cabinets. I drilled a 7/8” hole up through the bottom of the cabinets over each of our beds. I ran a short (about 4.5 inch) piece of 1/2” PVC pipe through each hole and glued it in place. Now, the machines reside in the upper cabinets. Their power comes directly from the batteries so no need to carry the 110vac converter. We use a short hose to go from the Machine to the top of the PVC pipe inside the cabinet. The hose attached to your mask is plugged into the lower end of the PVC pipe on the outside of the cabinet. We have used this system for four years now and have found it to be a very elegant solution to the problem. In the mornings we simply unplug the hose from the PVC pipe and store our mask and hose inside the cabinet during the day. Out of sight and ready to go the next night. As a side note, when I attempted to purchase the 12vdc cords for our particular machines, I found that they were $50 apiece. Not being willing to spend that much money on a simple cord, I decided to make my own. I bought two 12vdc plugs and then realized that the plug that goes into our machine is proprietary and unavailable. After brainstorming on this for a few days, I went down to our local dealer that furnishes our breathing supplies and asked if they had any inoperable power supply’s. She brought out a box full and I went home with a couple. I cut off a short length of cord with the plug attached , soldered the 12vdc plug onto the other end and voilà, free power cords. Sorry about the pictures being sideways, that always happens when I post from my phone.

Did you remove his account?

If you don’t have the neutral grounding plug yet, don’t panic. Just turn the electrical management system off at the display. This is safe under these circumstances since your generator is your source. We are assuming that generator is putting out electricity in the correct manner.

We bought a Yamaha EF3000iSEB soon after we bought our 2008 Elite. It has served us well for these past 10+ years and now rides on the front of our 2014 Elite II. It will be claimed that it is too much generator and a smaller/less expensive one will do. If I were to do it all again, I’d do it the same. I’m all about overkill. That way nothing is ever marginal.

Every night, Reacher (the 100+ lb Doberman), gets the side dinette made down into his bed. The two little dogs sleep on our beds. When we had our Elite (one of the rare twin bed models) the big dog slept on the floor.

Yea.....

Do you have a switch panel in your rearmost upper cabinet? When was the last time your water pump was operational? There is an additional pump switch in the bathroom. I believe it is under the upper ledge of the caddy type insert in the sink vanity. It will act as a 3-way for the pump. You can check the wiring on the back of the switch in the cabin. Make sure the wires are all still connected. There should be three. The one in the bath is probably more difficult to check but I would try that one too.

These pumps are capable of being run with no water for some time. That alone should not blow a fuse. Do you have a multimeter?

The pump does sense water pressure but only to the extent that it comes on whenever you open a faucet. It can not tell whether there is actually water in the tank. It appears that this problem is that there is no power getting to the pump therefore it can’t come on.

Ok, that tells me what happened. The overflow is in front of the tires. The drain is behind the tires. Apparently, the drain valve was open. The drain valve is not one of the ones located around the water pump. It is located on the the floor below the water pump. Make sure this valve is closed and refill the fresh water tank. As for why the pump light does not come on, that would be an electrical issue. First check the fuse and we’ll go from there.

Just parking on a slope seems an unlikely scenario for making the freshwater tank drain. There is no way it can drain through the overflow. Please let us know exactly where the water you saw draining was coming from. Was it in front of the curb side tires or behind them?

mdernier, welcome to the forum. From your post, it’s apparent you’ve been doing a lot of prospective and intelligent thinking about your future Oliver, particularly the aspect of towing. That is wise and fun to do. You are going to have the time of your life come April and it will be here before you know it. Your profile does not have any information listed about you or any potential tow vehicle you plan to use. Do you actually need the Andersen system? If your tow vehicle is big enough, it is unnecessary. Personally, I’ve never seen the need for it in ten years of towing two different Oliver’s with four different vehicles.

So you’ve established that your barn outlet is wired incorrectly. You need to reverse your neutral and ground on that outlet. That should solve the issue.

None of the early models had this valve installed under the dinette seat. When they, all of a sudden, appeared a year or so ago, I questioned the need for it to the folks at Oliver. Nobody was ever able to give me a reasonable answer as to why it was being installed since there was and is a backflow preventer in that line. It made no sense to have both. Now, as I understand it, they have eliminated it. Now that makes sense.

This is the one we are using. The way it is shipped it requires being plugged into 110VAC. To me, this is never optimal in our trailers. The unit is supplied with the “wall wart” and cord. Close examination of the wart reveals that the output voltage is 5VDC. I bought a USB cord with the proper end on it for the monitor so now it gets its power from the trailer via one of the USP ports. As you probably already know, USB output is 5VDC.

I believe the casters could be considered "just cause" for law enforcement look into your intended usage of said milk crate. Be careful out there.

Just make sure the law doesn't catch you using it for any nefarious purpose and I think you'll be OK.

Your system is preforming normally, no need to unhook anything. Change your fan off "auto" and it will work as expected.